

C. W, OLSVEF* 



S B 

05 










m 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Chap.-2_i. Copyright No. 



ML.QS 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 







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11 







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PLANT CULTURE. 



PLANT CULTURE 



A WORKING HAND-BOOK OF EVERY 
.-. .-. DAY PRACTICE FOR .\ .-. 
ALL WHO GROW FLOWERING AND 
.-. .-. ORNAMENTAL PLANTS .-. .-. 
IN THE GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE 



BY 

GEORGE W. OLIVER 

Propagator to the U. S. Botanic Garden, Washington, D. C, and 
late of the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh 



NEW YORK 

A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO., LTD. 

1900 



23003 



library of Cor 

j Tv/o Cores Received | 
I JUL 21 1900 I 

\ Copyright entry 

SECOND COPY,. 

Delivered fl<r 

ORDER WVISKHt, 

U1L-23J900 



66203 

Copyright 

Entered According to Act of Congress in the 

Year 1900 by 

A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPANY, LTD. 

New York 



>& 







<D 



All Rights Reserved. 



PREFACE 



In nearly all of the recent works of this nature, appearing 
in America, the subjects dealt with have been confined, more 
or less, to those plants that can be and are cultivated by 
commercial florists for profit, or by those who own conserva- 
tories. And while the present book includes all this class of in- 
formation it has a far wider scope treating, as it does, on the care 
and management of a diversity of plants not touched upon by 
other writers, all equally necessary in the adornment of our 
gardens and homes and„for this purpose, as beautiful and inter- 
esting as those that generally receive the greatest attention from 
authors of most horticultural works. Divested of superfluous 
verbiage, and shorn of perplexing technicalities which tend to 
confuse, the cultural directions here given can be easily and 
successfully followed, the results contributing to the perfect 
enjoyment of "the purest of human pleasures/' by some, and 
affording to others a lucrative occupation. 

What I have given here are teachings gleaned and sifted 
from the experience of many years' work as a gardener and 
florist. The methods described are such as have been success- 
fully practiced by me and can be safely relied on as up-to-date 
and thoroughly applicable to American conditions and require- 
ments. 



While the notes have been made short, they will, never- 
theless, in most cases, cover the essential points in the 
methods of raising and caring for the plants named, and be 
understood by the average reader as easily as if they had 
been dealt with in longer articles. Hitherto, the information 
available on the subjects treated upon has, for the most part, 
been widely scattered in numerous magazines and books, 
many of which are expensive; and it is often found necessary 
to search through a mass of technical details in order to find 
the required information. It is to be hoped that the present 
volume will, in great measure, reduce the difficulties referred 
to, and render the art of plant cultivation profitable and enjoy- 
able to the many whose tastes are horticultural. 

George W. Oliver. 
Washington, July, 1900. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Stove and Greenhouse Plants - - - 9 

Bedding Plants 50 

Vase and Basket Plants 65 

Vines, Hardy and Tender - - - - 67 

Bulbous Plants - 79 

Ornamental Grasses ------- 92 

Water Plants — Aquatics "96 

Ferns and Lycopods 101 

Hardy Perennial Plants - - - - in 

Hardy Shrubs ------ 147 

General Directions 176 

Propagation - 176 

Seeds - - 176 

Grafting - - - - 178-180 

Budding 180 

Layering - - 181 

Hybridization 182 

Potting Plants 182 

Soil 185 

Mulching - - 185 

Watering - - 186 



Stove and Greenhouse Plants. 



ABUTILON— Several of the varieties having ornamental foliage, such 
as A. Darwini tesselatum, A. Sellonianum marmoratum, A. vexillarium 
and Eclipse, are good bedding plants. The last two are useful for vases 
and boxes. All of them have the leaves blotched witn yellow. Souvenir 
de Bonn and Savitzii are variegated with white. Cuttings are rooted in 
the Fall, or may betaken in early Spring from lifted and cut back plants. 
The varieties grown for their flowers are numerous; the colors are pink, 
red, white and yellow. They are everblooming. 

ACACIA — Seedlings of Acacias are not to be recommended for small 
flowering plants, on account of their lanky growth. Not only are plants 
from cuttings most floriferous, but they are easier trained to any desired 
shape. They should be taken from the half-ripened shoots during the 
month of June. A peatty soil mixed with half sand should be used, as 
the roots will take nourishment from it immediately they are formed. 
Make the cuttings with a sharp knife and take off the leaves from the 
part which is to go in the soil with a small pair of sharp scissors. The 
pots for rooting the cuttings in should be prepared carefully— rough 
crocks in the bottom and finer above, until they are filled to within two 
inches of the rim. The remaining space should be filled with finely sifted 
peat and sand in equal parts topped off with pure sand. Dibble in the 
cuttings to the depth of about an inch and not too crowded. They 
must be kept " close " during the operation of rooting, and as cool as 
possible. The pots, which may be plunged in sand, should be covered 
with a movable glass structure. A good plan is to have two sets of 
those hand-light or bell-glasses, and instead of wiping the moisture 
from them daily, remove the wet ones and slip over them those which 
are dry. After the first watering the cuttings will take but little more 
during the process of rooting; when they do require it the foliage should 
be allowed to dry before putting back the covers. Acacia Biceana is 
perhaps the finest greenhouse species for very large plants. A. pubes- 
cens, A. Drummondi and A. paradoxa are all good greenhouse species, 
flowering well on moderate-sized specimens. Sandy loam, to which a 
goodly quantity of leaf soil or peat is added, will suit them. Firm pot- 
ting and good drainage are necessary. Plunge the plants outside dur- 
ing Summer, and give liberal supplies of water when the plants are well 
established. 

ACALYPHA HISPIDA— Large plants in pots are speedily produced by 
using a goodly quantity of bone meal in the soil. Grow in a high tem- 
perature. If tall plants are wanted, keep nipping out the flower spikes 
as they appear in the axils of the leaves. When the plant reaches the 
desired height nip out the ends of the shoots; this will cause branching. 

AQAPANTHUS UMBELLATUS— The African blue Lily is a desirable 
plant for cool greenhouses, and ornamental either in or out of bloom. 
In general appearance it resembles the Imantophyllum, but the flowers 



10 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

are bright blue, a great number of them being produced in an umbel 
supported by a long, stout stalk. The Agapanthus is one of those 
plants which have the appearance of doing well with cramped root 
room, so there is a temptation when potting other things to leave the 
plants for another year; but this practice is carried on at the expense of 
the m'agnificent heads of flowers, which get smaller and smaller until a 
season goes by without any being produced. This species sometimes 
stands the Winters at Washington, D. C, in sheltered positions. There 
are several varieties — the white, double-flowered and the variety with 
variegated leaves being the most conspicuous. 

AGATH/EA CCELESTIS^A cOol greenhouse, low-growing shrub with 
blue, daisy-like flowers produced principally in Winter. Cuttings should 
be taken from the soft wood in Fall and Spring. It will stand full sun 
at all seasons. 

AGAVE AHERICANA and its variegated forms, together with several 
other more or less ornamental species, are much cultivated in pots and 
tubs. They grow best in rather poor but well-drained soil, and are 
increased by seeds and offsets. The flowering period of adult specimens 
is hastened by keeping them in a pot-bound state. On the other hand, 
growth of foliage is accelerated by giving abundant root room. 

ALLAHANDAS— Among the select flowering plants for temporary or 
permanent use in tubs we must include the large flowering allamandas 
known as Cathartica, Schottii and grandiflora. They will thrive in 
shade or sun; where a little shade is available the flowers naturally last 
longer. The flowers are large, almost the size of the moonflower, but 
more lasting, the shoots ramble over the sides of the tubs. Procure 
some young plants in the beginning of May and a little later plant in 
the open to make growth for cuttings. After cutting them back for 
propagation lift and pot, partly resting them for the Winter. For im- 
mediate effect after planting out start early in the Spring; one plant to 
a tub, among other things, is sufficient. The best upright growing 
species is named Williamsii, a grand plant either for boxes, tubs or for 
bedding out; it is easily propagated in the Fall from ripe cuttings. 
The larger flowered kinds, when represented by large plants, are very 
desirable for isolating on a lawn. A good, rich, light soil is necessary, 
and if a tub is used for the plant put enough drainage in the bottom so 
that the plant when knocked out of the pot will rest on the drainage. 
Earn the soil firmly around the ball, shorten back the strong growths 
and stand the plants in a partly shaded spot, syringing frequently. In 
a few weeks' time, the kinds grown under the names Wardleana, Hen- 
dersoni and Schottii, will give an abundant display of their wide, 
trumpet-shaped, yellow flowers. When trained near the roof of a warm 
greenhouse they may be had in bloom the greater part of the Winter 
months. In fact, they can be so managed as to have them bloom at 
any time of the year, by first resting the plants, pruning back and 
encouraging the root growth. Cuttings of the ripe wood will root in a 
warm propagating house at any season. 

ALOCASIA— Although among the most ornamental of stove plants, 
none of them can be put to much use outside of these structures. Out 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 11 

of a large number of species and forms, A. metallica, A. Sedenii, A. Thi- 
bautiana, A. Sanderiana and A. macrorhiza variegata are well known. 
The two last named are increased by offsets; the others, by cutting up 
the succulent stems of old plants. Put the pieces in damp moss, in a 
propagating frame, with a temperature of 80 degrees. After sprouting 
put them in a potting mixture similar to that given for nepenthes. The 
plants must be shaded from the .sun at all times, and ;grown in a mini- 
mum temperature of 60 degrees. 

ALOYSIA CITRIODORA— The sweet-scented verbena, grows very 
strongly when planted out, finishing up the season by covering itself 
with myriads of small, insignificant flowers. It is a very popular plant, 
on account of its sweet smelling leaves, being almost identical in this 
respect with those of the lemon grass aDd Eucalyptus citriodora. Keep 
some old plants over Winter; start them early in Spring and root the 
growths, as soon as they get enough length to them, in warm sand bed. 

AHARYLLIS— See Bulbous Plants. 

AN AN AS— Ananas Porteana is hardly worth growing for its variega- 
tion when we have the splendid variegated forms of the common pine- 
apple — A. sativa. In a warm, sheltered place all of the kinds do well 
out-of-doors in Summer, where they put on exquisite colorings. If 
grown large enough the plants will fruit in the same way as the green- 
leaved forms. In fact, it is best to allow them to fruit, as subsequently 
they form suckers the more readily. These suckers may be rooted in 
sand, not too moist, but very warm. After being potted off and taken 
with the soil a little they will stand full sunlight without injury. 

ANTHERICUM VARIEGATUM is a good all-round plant for vases, bed- 
ding, or potted for window decoration, although for the last-named 
purpose it is surpassed by the variety known as A. media picta. If the 
plants which were lifted in the Fall are allowed to bloom, and the 
flower stalks remain on the plants afterward, a good opportunity to 
increase the stock of plants presents itself during February. All along 
the flowering stems will be found a crop of small rosettes of leaves 
which, if cut off, stems and all, and laid on the sand in the shaded part 
of a warm house, will send out roots in a short time. Large clumps of 
A. variegatum, which have been hibernating under benches, should be 
broken up about the end of January and potted in 3 and 4-inch pots. 
They may be placed under benches where the light will strike them for 
at least a portion of the day. 

ANTHURIUri— The species of this genus are grown either for foliage 
or flower. None of them has handsome foliage and showy flowers com- 
bined in the same plant. A crystallinum, A. Veitchii and A. Warocque- 
anum are very beautiful foliage plants, but the flowers are inconspicu- 
ous. On the other hand A. Andreanum, A. ornatum and their numerous 
hybrid progeny, together with A. Scherzerianum and varieties, have 
rather ordinary -looking leaves; but in each case the inflorescence is ex- 
ceedingly attractive. The showy part of the inflorescence is what is 
termed the spathe, answering the same purpose as calyx and corolla in 
other flowers. Their cultural needs are: temperature, 65 to 85 degrees; 



12 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

shade at all times, lightest in Winter. The potting mixture should be 
rough, fibry peat, sphagnum, decayed cow manure and sand, except for 
A. Scherzerianum, which needs less sphagnum and more peat. Water 
should be copiously supplied in the growing season. Toward the end of 
January, with increasing sun heat, these plants will soon commence 
active growth for the season. Before this takes place they should be 
looked over for the purpose of repotting or for rooting any tall or strag- 
gling growths which have grown away from the sphagnum in the pot. 
In this condition the roots, which are formed at the bases of the lea 
stems, shrivel up for want of moisture and the plant becomes shy in 
blooming. Cut off the shoots that are in this condition and put in a 
mixture of sphagnum and sand in a warm part of tfce propagating 
bench; keep moist and roots will form in abundance in about three 
weeks, when they should be potted up in the usual way. Old plants 
should have the lower part of the stem and roots removed and sunk 
lower in the pot, using a mixture of fibrous peat, sphagnum, well decom- 
posed cow manure, charcoal and sand. This treatment applies only to 
such kinds as A. Andreanum, A. ornatum and their numerous hybrid 
progeny, all of which produce very showy flowers which may be used to 
advantage associated with those of orchids. Their cultivation is 
exceedingly simple where sufficient heat is at command, a minimum tem- 
perature of 65 degrees F. being necessary. 

APONOGETON DISTACH YON— This is not a greenhouse plant, but, 
where opportunities offer, it certainly should be grown as such. It is 
known as the Cape Pond Weed. The flowers, arranged much in the same 
way as those of the Ouvirandra, have large, showy white bracts; very 
sweet smelling. In its native haunts the seeds germinate on the surface 
of the water, forming very small tubers which, when the leaves decay, 
sink to the bottom of the pond and become established there. 

ARALIA — Aralia Veitchii and A. gracillima are readily rooted if the 
cuttings are taken at the proper time; that is, when young shoots 
develop on a cut-back plant, and they are removed with a heel and kept 
in a close, warm propagating frame. But this is a slower method than 
grafting if the necessary stocks are at hand. A. Guilfoylei, or any of the 
woody species of Panax, make good enough stock on which to work 
them. Select long, wiry wood for cions— that which is not too thick 
and well ripened. In the cions a piece of the stem to each leaf is all that 
is necessary. Cut the stock clear across and down to as near the soil as 
possible; make an incision in it downward for three-quarters of an inch. 
Make the wood of the cion wedge-shaped to fit the incision, and tie to 
keep in position till united, during which process they should be kept in 
a rather warm, humid atmosphere— a moderately warm propagating 
frame will answer. The leaves of the cions, if too large, should be short- 
ened back a little. March is the best month in which to perform the 
operation. 

Aralia Chabrierii, so called, strikes so readily from cuttings put in a 
cool house that there is no necessity for grafting them. 

Aralia (Fatsia) japonica is conceded to be one of the best plants for 
decorative purposes, but like several other good things in this line it is 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 13 

not got up in any very great quantity, possibly from methods of propa- 
gation not being evident. It is rather backward in producing seeds in 
this country, although moderately large plants flower freely enough. 
From cuttings, by topping old plants, it is rather slow. It is said to 
vegetate from pieces of the roots. I have not tried this method. Seeds 
are obtainable from some of the European firms at reasonable prices. 
These should be got hold of during March or April and sown then, as 
they do not retain their vitality for any great length of time. Firm the 
soil in the seed pans before sowing, and cover with a mixture of loam 
and sand; place in a temperature suitable for warm greenhouse plants, 
shaded from the sun. The seedlings, as soon as large enough to handle, 
should be potted off singly into 2-inch pots, and when in 4-inch pots 
they should be plunged outside during the Summer, in a frame covered 
with slats, or with sash-tilted top and bottom alternately. When large 
enough for a shift they should get it, as they suffer from being root- 
bound. Old plants will stand considerable frost, but the young plants 
are always more tender and should on the approach of cool weather be 
given protection. 

A. J. variegata is a highly ornamental form. 

ARAUCARIAS — In the propagation of the Araucaria a good plan is 
to procure seed and sow at the end of the year. The seedlings are, of 
course, not well-furnished at the base, but they make good stock plants 
and cheaper ones than can be procured otherwise. The finely ripened 
tops of the seedlings are so easy to root that, with ordinary care, it is 
almost impossible to lose a cutting Moreover, the cut-back plants will 
immediately begin to throw up good leaders, which in turn are used for 
cuttings. In taking cuttings from plants which have attained consider- 
able size, the lateral branches may be rooted along with the tops— not 
for making specimen plants, because this is impossible, but for the pur- 
pose of providing material for cuttings; for, when cut back, they will 
throw up [leaders, which are as good as the best. The soil for propa- 
gating should be sandy, and pressed firmly about the base of the cut- 
tings, which should be kept in a frame shaded from sunlight, with 
enough moisture in the atmosphere to keep them from wilting. Keep 
the temperature a little higher after the cuttings have callused. Most 
of the plants used in this country (principally- A. excelsa) are imported 
from Europe. This Araucaria is a native of Norfolk Island and is 
known as the Norfolk Island Pine. The best place for the plants in 
Summer is under a structure covered with slats, in which similarly con- 
stituted plants may pass the hot months. 

ARDISIA— The red-berried ardisia, A. crenulata, continues to be one 
of the most attractive Christmas plants. It can be recommended as a 
first-class window subject, owing to its apparent indifference to a little 
cold or occasional neglect in the way of watering. Seeds may be sown 
during the latter part of January. Plants over one year old are never 
without a crop of seed at any season, if they are in good health; and 
frequently we see them with two crops at one time along with the 
flowers, which in a short period produce the third crop of berries. The 
old fruits have usually a grimy appearance from hanging so long on the 



14 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

bush. When there is any choice in the matter the oldest berries should 
be taken for sowing, as they will be the first to fall from the plant. 
Wash the pulp from around the seed and sow immediately, affording a 
quarter of an inch of soil above the seeds, firming well and giving the 
pots or boxes a position in a cool house. Keep the soil moderately 
damp, with abundance of air during mild weather. Conditions such as 
these will give the seed ample time to germinate and make plants in 4- 
inch pots by the following Fall. Cuttings root freely in sand, but do not 
make as symmetrical plants as seedlings. When the old plants get leggy 
the tops are easily rooted by making an incision in the stems and tying 
moss around them. These tops make very fine dwarf specimens. 

ASPARAGUS— As pot plants there are only three species of any value; 
these are A. plumosus nanus, A. tenuissimus and A. Sprengeri. 

A. plumosus is a very distinct plant from A. plumosus nanus and 
probably is a distinct species. (See Vines). 

A. plumosus nanus makes a profusion of short growths from the 
base, and may be kept in this condition by pot culture and pinching 
shoots that show a tendency to run up; for it will grow 30 feet high 
under proper conditions. Dividing starved plants is the readiest 
method of increasing stock. Wash out the roots and place the divisions 
in moderately wet sand, to make a few roots before potting. 

A. tenuissimus should be rooted from cuttings. Unlike the other 
kinds it is easy to manage in this respect. 

A. Sprengeri does best where its branches are allowed to hang down 
instead of being planted in a bed like the better known A. plumosus 
nanus. The ideal method is to have the plants in large wire baskets 
suspended from the roof of a house; and where the plants underneath 
don't suffer from drip or shade this system will work all right. Where 
a large supply of this green is wanted the north wall of a house may be 
used economically by erecting trough-like receptacles running the entire 
length of the house. The top one may be as near the glass as possible, 
the next in front 6 or 8 inches lower down, and so on, giving enough 
room to prevent crowding of the branches. Old plants may be divided 
for planting out, and k for small specimens in pots, which are useful in 
associating with ferns. Seedlings are easily raised. The plants ripen 
seed in midwinter. If cleaned and sown as soon as ripe the seeds 
germinate quickly. 

ASPIDISTRA— The usual way to increase the stock of these very valu- 
able decorative plants is to divide up large specimens into small pieces, 
potting and keeping close until they make fresh roots. A method requir- 
ing a little more work, certainly, but giving salable plants in a shorter 
period, and more of them, as every small piece will grow, is to shake the 
old plants out, disentangle the rhizomes as carefully as possible, and 
wash clean, saving every little piece that is likely to grow. Cut the rhi- 
zomes into small pieces, with roots attached, and put in the sand bed 
to make fresh roots; subsequently put in small pots and keep close for 
a few days. A. elatior and A. elatior variegata are the ones most com- 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 15 

monly grown. It is said that A. lurida is hardy as far North as Phila- 
delphia. 

ASPLENIUM— See Ferns. 

AZALEA— Indian Azaleas used so extensively for Winter and Spring 
flowering are European grown. They arrive in the Fall in wonderfully 
good condition, as a rule. 

The Newly Imported Plants— These should not be potted in the first 
kind of soil that comes to hand; rather choose that which is as far as 
possible like the material in which they have been grown. Firm potting 
is very very important. The rootlets are exceedingly fine and they make 
but little progress in loose soil when in pots. Examine the roots care- 
fully before potting, and if the balls are at all dry, stand them in a tub of 
water until wet through; allow to drain, then pot. This treatment 
should be given to all plants of the same family, such as Andromedas, 
Kalmias, Ericas, Epacris and Rhododendrons, as they all have roots of 
the same nature. For the first week or two after potting put the plants 
in a deep frame with the sash kept on ; and for those which are meant 
for later flowering this frame, if frost can be kept out of it, will be the 
proper place to Winter the plants. 

Removing Side Growths — Azalea plants which for forcing purposes are 
in a comparatively high temperature, and otherwise under conditions 
with which they are unaccustomed, will push out growths at the bases 
of the flower buds; especially is this the case with plants the roots of 
w T hich are in perfect order. This tendency is shown less earlier in the 
season than later on, but whenever it does occur, the sooner the growths 
are removed the better are the chances for the perfect development of 
the flowers. 

Treatment During Summer — Azalea plants left unsold in Spring will 
increase in value if they are properly handled during the Summer 
months. It pays to grow on imported Azaleas, from small plants into 
big ones, because, when lifted in the Fall, they are equally as good as, if 
not better than, imported plants for general use, and much better for 
forcing. About the beginning of May stand the plants which have been 
in the greenhouse in a cold frame or a sheltered spot outside, to gradu- 
ally harden them off previous to putting them in the ground, so that 
when that operation is performed they will not get chilled at the roots. 
In a few days prepare a bed for them; dig a trench of sufficient size for 
the balls, keeping the sizes together. Scatter a couple of inches of leaf 
mould and sand in the trench; knock the plants out of their pots, if 
necessary reduce the balls a little; place in the trench, fill in with a mix- 
ture of leaf soil, sand and loam, ramming it firm around them. Some 
lath slats on very hot days, pinchings when necessary and frequent 
waterings with the hose, will be all that is required for the next five 
months. At the expiration of that time they will have ripened their 
growth for the season, when they may be lifted and the balls reduced in 
size so as to go comfortably into the proper-sized pots. - 

BEGONIA— This genus is a deservedly popular one, as it possesses 
numerous species and varieties, useful either as greenhouse, window or 



16 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

bedding plants. Nearly all of them will grow in a wide range of soils. 
Two parts loam and a third of equal parts decayed cow manure and 
sand will be found to answer the requirements of most of them. 

Sowing Seed — The seeds of all Begonias are very minute and should 
be sown on finely sifted and previously watered soil, without covering, 
excepting perhaps a very fine dusting of silver sand. The pan may be 
covered with glass until germination takes place. 

The tuberous rooted section behave grandly in some parts of the 
country when planted out. In the warmer localities they do not thrive. 
The tubers are Wintered much in the same way as those of Caladiums or 
Gloxinias. Young plants are raised from seed in Spring, but they bloom 
late: 

Winter Bloomers— Begonia Gloire de Sceaux is a hybrid between B. 
subpeltata and B. socotrana, the latter being one of the parents of the 
wonderfully floriferous Gloire de Lorraine. Gloire de Sceaux is a trifle 
miffy and that is probably the reason we see less of it grown than we 
did a few years ago. Flowering wood is not the best for cuttings. 
Young plants are best started from the leaves. When well flowered it is 
a very effective plant for decorations, owing to the bronzy color of the 
foliage and bright pink flowers. Paul Bruant is one 'of the best flower- 
ing of the genus, and one which does well in a house window; the foliage 
slightly resembles that of B. Gilsonii, another good Winter bloomer, 
with double flowers, said to have been raised before the War of the Ke- 
bellion by a colored man named Gilson. Its history would be interest- 
ing, seeing that it is a shrubby kind with the flowers double. President 
Carnot, after having grown this hybrid since it was sent out a few years 
ago, I have come to the conclusion that the best way to manage it, in 
the absence of a place in the greenhouse, where it can be planted out, is 
to put it out in the open lot in the Summer, where it is encouraged to 
make all the growth possible; lift with a good ball, pot carefully, when 
it will flower in midwinter most profusely. The large clusters of female 
flowers are one of the most attractive features in the greenhouse in mid- 
winter. Two other good Winter blooming species for house culture are 
B. manicata aurea and B. acuminata; the former has light pink flowers 
and yellow spotted leaves; the latter small, crisp-looking foliage and 
pure white flowers. 

Begonia Corallina — To grow this species from seed is "rather unsatis- 
factory; it takes the best part of a year to bloom and then, as a rule, 
many of the seedlings are inferior to the forms already in cultivation, 
the most noticeable point being their lack of free-blooming qualities. 
Cuttings of this, the queen of shrubby Begonias, either for bedding pur- 
poses or pot plants, should always be preferred, as they begin to flower 
shortly after being potted off. It is a species which stands very rich 
soil. Other good shrubby kinds are B. nitida and B. nitida alba, B. 
incarnata, B. fuchsioides, B. Saundersii and B. semperflorens gigantea 



Begonia Gloire de Lorraine was raised about nine years ago. It is a 
hybrid between B. socotrana (a species discovered in the Island of 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 17 

Socotra, by Professor Baley Balfour) and the old B. Dregei. As a Win- 
ter bloomer it is perhaps the finest of all recent hybrids. The first 
growths made by the rooted cuttings all go to flowers, afterward some 
growths more or less vigorous are made from the base. These make 
excellent material for cuttings. Young plants are also raised from 
mature leaves. The shoots should be allowed to be well above the sand 
before being potted. The floriferousness of this Begonia may be partly 
accounted for by the fact of its being almost without female flowers, 
and also by the stamens producing little or no pollen. Among a large 
number of plants I have seen only a very few female flowers, and these 
are, so far as noticed, only produced at the very ends of the flowering 
stems. The pollen is produced exceedingly sparingly, many of the 
flowers having none at all. 

Rex Begonias, Leaf Cuttings of— After the rush of propagating the 
soft wooded plants in the Fall the cuttings of the Bex Begonias may 
be put in the sand bed. Select the mature leaves of those plants which 
are growing in a rather cool house. The pieces for cuttings will answer 
all right if they be cut in a triangular shape, three inches each way. 
The part to be inserted in the sand should end with one of the thick ribs 
or veins which are prominent on the undersides of the leaves. From a 
medium-sized leaf eight or ten cuttings can be got. Put them in the 
sand to the depth of about an inch and maintain a moderately humid 
atmosphere to prevent wilting. Place in thumb pots as soon as the 
leaves show above the sand. The old leaves are sometimes used entire, 
first by giving a few cuts across the principal ribs, then placing them 
flat on damp sand or moss. The other method is to be preferred, because 
more plants can be got from one leaf. It is equally as quick, and takes 
up much less room on the propagating bench. So far as color is con- 
cerned few of the newer sorts are improvements over the better known 
kinds, such as Philadelphus, Inimitable, Silver Queen, Fire King, Mrs. 
Bivers and Marshalli. 

BOUGAINVILLEA— There are at least five kinds in cultivation. B. 
spectabilis is as free blooming as any, but only on large specimens. It 
is very useful for training along the roof in the same way as B. glabra. 
A season of rest, followed by severe pruning, usually induces an abun- 
dant flowering growth. B. glabra Sanderiana differs from the tpye 
in being smaller in the flower and more floriferous in a small state. 
Small specimens from cuttings, rooted in the beginning of the year, will 
bloom the following Winter; but larger plants take a couple of years to 
develop. They should be allowed to make their growth out-of-doors, 
either in the small or large state. There is not much to be gained by 
planting out, as they make few roots. Plunging answers well enough, 
with a shift in midseason, if necessary. After the plants are brought in- 
doors the large, soft growths may be shortened, and an intermediate 
temperature maintained until the plants are started into growth, when 
more water and heat are given. After they have made a start, doses of 
weak liquid manure are beneficial. When in bloom, gradually harden off, 
or the flowers will fall in showers. 



18 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

BOUVARDIA— A much grown Winter-flowering plant some years ago ; 
now comparatively few are to be seen. Young plants are raised early 
in Spring, from small pieces of the roots, placed in flats of sand and kept 
in a warm house. For the first week or two cover the surface of the 
sand with damp sphagnum moss ; this will encourage the formation of 
buds on the roots. When the growths are of sufficient size, put in 2-inch 
pots, shifting into 3-inch pots, and plant outside during the latter part 
of May. To make bushy plants the leading shoots should be pinched 
repeatedly. About the middle of September, or earlier, according to 
location, the plants are lifted with balls of earth attached, and either 
planted on benches or put in pots. Keep the atmosphere moist and 
close for the first few days/and the plants shaded from the sun. A mini- 
mum temperature of 55 degrees is necessary for perfect development. 
Pink, white and red are the prevailing colors. 

BROWAIXIA— B. Jamesoni is a useful plant for late Winter flowering. 
It is naturally alow-growing soft-wooded evergreen shrub, with a rather 
straggling appearance. When grown as a standard it is an extremely 
ornamental subject. For this purpose take strong shoots for cuttings, 
and grow to single stems, removing the side shoots and stopping the 
main shoot when the desired height has been attained. Iu Summer the 
plants may be plunged in a bed of ashes and frequently fed with liquid 
manure. They need full sun. B. elata will bloom all Winter in a cool 
conservatory. It is annual in duration. Seeds should be sown the 
latter part of August; a few in a 4-inch pot. Discard the weakest seed- 
lings, leaving three or four in a pot, and shift into 6-inch pots to bloom. 

BRUNFELSIA— About half a dozen species are common in cultivation. 
Out of this number there are at least two well worthy of attention as 
pot plants— B. (Franciscea) latifolia and B. eximia. The former is very 
free in producing flowers, and is one of the best plants to put out in the 
permanent bed of a warm conservatory. The plant flowers during the 
late Winter months from the wood made the previous Summer. On first 
expanding the flowers are light purple, changing as they grow older to 
pure white. Old plants sucker freely, and if severed an inch or so 
beneath the surface of the ground and put in the propagating bed, they 
will quickly form new roots and develop into specimens large enough 
for 5-inch pots within a year. These plants should be grown indoors 
all the year round. Winter is their resting period, and during that time 
they should be watered but sparingly. The soil should be of fibry loam, 
sand and lime rubble; a small quantity of leaf mould may be added. In 
rooting any of the kinds, take very large pieces; dust the cut part with 
powdered charcoal; allow it to dry, then put in a pot of dry sand and 
keep dry till rooted. 

CALADIUM— See Bulbous Plants. 

CACTUS— This name is applied to all the members of the family. 
Formerly it was the adopted generic name of a large number of plants 
which are now divided into several genera. Quite a number are hardy 
in the Middle Atlantic States, among these are Opuntia arborescens, O. 
Raflnesquii,0. vulgaris, O. missouriensis, and one named O. pha«acantha. 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 19 

Some of the gaudy-flowered greenhouse kinds, such as Cereus flagelli- 
formis, C. speciosissimus, and the much admired night bloomers C. 
grandiflorus and C. Macdonaldia?, when in good condition, so far as the 
drainage and soil in the pot are concerned, may be plunged in a sunny 
spot out-of-doors, where they will make growth much superior to that 
attained in the greenhouse. If the plants are in good health wet sea- 
sons will do them no harm. 

CALATHEA— Usually known as Marantas. They are grown solely for 
their ornamental foliage, nearly all of the species having beautiful 
markings. It is doubtful if any other genus shows greater variation in 
this respect. Most of the kinds are stove plants, growing in shade all 
the year round, with a minimum temperature of 60 degrees. They need 
an abundance of water at all times. In Winter, when the benches are 
apt to get dry quickly, the pots .should stand on a layer of sphagnum 
moss. Some of the species will succeed in a temperate house, and a few 
of the stove kinds may be subjected to a lower temperature, without 
injury, after they have made their growth. Some of the best-known 
stove kinds are as follows: C. Baraquiniana, C. bella, C. fasciata, C. 
Kerchoviana, C. Lindeniana, C. Makoyana, C. albo-lineata, C. rosea- 
picta, C. splendida, C. zebrina, and C. Veitchiana. Those which may be 
grown cooler are C. tubispatha, a species which loses its leaves and 
[goes to rest for the Winter; C. illustris, C. Leitzei, C. Massangeana, C. 
pulchella and C. intermedia. The last two resemble C. zebrina in the 
upper portions of the leaves, but the inferior margins are almost green. 
None of the species should be allowed to flower, as this only weakens 
the plants; and seed is not necessary, as they all divide very freely. Dur- 
ing the growing season, if drained thoroughly, they can hardly be over- 
watered. 

Propagation— Calatheas, which are freshly divided, should not be 
potted in fresh soil until new roots have been formed. This condition 
may be brought in the following manner: Knock the plants out of the 
pots before growth commences; wash /the soil from among the roots; 
prune out those not wanted, and divide into clumps, not too small, say 
large enough to go into a 5-inch pot, and put in the propagating bed. 
Let the air be close and moist, and the glass shaded. When a few fresh 
roots have been formed they take very quickly with the soil after 
potting. 

CALCEOLARIA— The Calceolaria, both shrubby and herbaceous, is as 
well known in western Europe as the Zonal Pelargonium in America. 
The shrubby kinds are there much used in bedding, producing very 
gaudy effects. They delight in & cool, moist atmosphere, and our hot 
Summers make short work of them. The herbaceous hybrids are raised 
from seeds sown about the month of August. The seeds are very small 
and should be sown on the surface of the soil and pressed down, cover- 
ing with glass until the seed leaves can be seen. At all times the plants 
require a cool, airy spot when in the greenhouse. From the seedling 
stage until the plants are likely to get hurt by frost they should be kept 
in a frame. Greenfly is their greatest insect enemy, and must be pre- 
vented from gaining a foothold on them by fumigation. Several of the 



20 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

species of Calceolaria are much easier to grow than the hybrids, and 
some of them are very ornamental. C. scabiossefolia may be flowered a 
few week3 from the seedling stage by starving in small pots. It may, 
however, be grown 3 feet high by shifting when necessary. Seeds may 
be sown from August to January. The soil should be of an open nature; 
cow manure and leaf mould should form one-fourth of the mixture. 

CALLISTEMON SPECIOSUS, and one or two other species, make inter- 
esting flowering plants in early Spring for a cool conservatory. Young 
plants are gotten up from seed, but they take a longer time to flower 
than when raised from cuttings; neither are they so free blooming. 
They may be treated much in the same way as Acacias. 

CAMELLIA— Some old plants of these relics of the past will occasion- 
ally be found in old-established greenhouses. They are kept, especially 
the white varieties, solely for the flowers, which are used in making up 
designs. In private and public gardens we see them oftener, and in such 
places they should be more grown, as they are capable of making exceed- 
ingly attractive displays during the Autumn and Winter months. The 
varieties are perpetuated by cuttings of the ripe growths in late Sum- 
mer, or by grafting before the growth starts, using stocks of strong- 
growing kinds, raised from cuttings. Potting is best done after the 
flowers fall off. Loam two parts, peat or leaf mould one part, and 
about one-sixth of the whole, sand, will make a good potting compost. 
They thrive best with limited root room. 

CANNAS FOR WINTER BLOOniNQ— During Winter these plants 
respond very readily when anything like fair treatment is given, in the 
production of large heads of bloom. In fact, in a warm, sunny house, 
many of the kinds are equally as fine as they are in Summer, and some 
of them last longer in bloom, owing to the conditions for the production 
of good flowers being more under^control. The orchid flowered Cannas, 
that is, those having C. flaccida blood in them, are not well suited for 
outdoor work, as their flowers are too soft to withstand the glare of 
the hot sun ; but for pot plants in Winter they are useful. The plants 
may be started in small pots, giving larger ones as growth is made. 
They are gross feeders, and will take rich soil supplemented by occa- 
sional waterings with liquid manure. 

CARLUDOVICA— About six species are in common cultivation. They 
are usually taken for palms, so closely do they resemble some kinds in 
the foliage; but they are not even related. The one most commonly 
grown, and perhaps the most useful for the florist, is named C. palmata; 
in leaf somewhat resembling a Livistona. From the seedling stage they 
develop rapidly into specimen plants. Old plants flower freely. The 
seeds are small and thin, about the size of those of Mignonette. Wash 
carefully from the surrounding pulp and sow in a box of finely chopped 
sphagnum. They germinate in three weeks. Let them grow in this 
until large enough to put three round the edge of a 3-inch pot, from 
these shift into 5-inch pots. With us the plants are useful for planting 
outside in shaded places in Summer, and if slightly hardened off they 
may be used in decorating. All the kinds are stove plants. 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 21 

CENTRADENIA— Of this there are three species, combining handsome 
foliage and rather pretty flowers. C. grandifolia has the largest leaves, 
and is the most useful for decorative work. The other species are C. 
floribunda and C. rosea. Cuttings will root at any time of the year. To 
get good growth on the plants during Summer they should be started 
from cuttings in March. An intermediate house suits them ; they require 
but little shade. 

CENTROPOGON— C. Lucyanum is said to be a bi-generic hybrid. The 
parents are given as Centropogon fastuosum and Siphocampylus betu- 
toefolius. It is one of the very best stove or warm greenhouse herba- 
ceous perennials. There is no great difficulty in its cultivation; but it 
is seldom seen in collections. The flowers are rosy carmine, produced in 
midwinter. After blooming numerous small shoots will usually appear 
along the branches; these taken off with a heel root with bottom heat. 
The young plants will thrive in heat and moisture during the first two 
or three months; they may afterwards be grown in a frame. After the 
blooming season is over the old plants may be given a period of rest, 
and then repotted, using a light, rich material. 

CESTRUM CORYMBOSUH and C. NEWELLI may be used for flower- 
ing about Christmas, if young plants are started about the end of 
August, the wood to be taken from old specimens planted out. As soon 

rooted put in 3-inch pots, afterward placing three together in a 6- 
inch pot to bloom. Keep in a sunny house, or the plants are apt to 
make too much foliage. 

CINERARIA— For coming into flower during March and April sow the 
seed during September. As soon as large enough the seedlings should 
be put in 2-inch pots, and from that time on they must not be allowed 
to get in a pot-bound state. The coolest house, with a maximum 
amount of light and air, is what they need. Soil should be light and 
well enriched. 

CONVOLVULUS— This genus possesses many weedy plants which, 
when once they gain a foothold in the garden, are difficult to eradicate. 
everal are very ornamental when in bloom. One of the best, especially 
or baskets, an evergreen, with short pendulous growths, is named C. 
uauritanieus. The flowers are blue, and about an inch across. This 
Dlant is usually increased by division, or cuttings of the ripe growths 
jarly in Spring. Seeds are also offered. 

CORDYLINE— The greenhouse Cordylines, such as C. australis, C. indi- 
Hsa and its forms, are best raised from seeds which are easily procura- 
ble. Sow thinly, as they they will not require to be transferred during 
;he earlier stages of growth. They are good decorative plants, from 
5-inch pot plants up, having long, narrow strap-shaped drooping leaves. 
Small plants are useful for mixing with other subjects in vases and bas- 
kets, as they stand full sun. 

The ornamental leaved kinds, which need a higher temperature for 
their perfect development, are very numerous. Some of the best known 
lg ire C. Baptistii, C. Cooperii, C. porphyrophylla, C. Youngii and C. termi- 



22 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

nalis. Especially from the last-named species many varieties have been 
raised. Propagation is quickest brought about by cutting up the long 
stems into pieces about 3 inches in length; put in warm sand and keep 
moderately damp. They will throw up shoots from each eye; these 
should be taken off and put in the sand to form strong, fresh roots, as 
they are provided, when attached to the parent stem, only with very 
weak roots and sometimes none at all. They will root quickly, and 
may be potted according to their size, in 2 or 3-inch pots, and grown on 
quickly in a high, moist temperature. When they reach a marketable 
size the hardening-off process is necessary, or they will not stand long 
when used for decorating. In C. neo-caledonica, C. brasiliensis and C. 
amabilis the thickened root stocks may be cut up into pieces along with 
the stems for propagation. C. Cannsefolia does not succeed so well when 
cut up into small pieces. It is a splendid decorative plant, standing 
much rough usage. Moss the tops and afterward place pieces of the 
stems, at least a foot long, in the bench of a cool house, as they take 
their own time in sending up growths. The species and forms with 
highly colored foliage will need a minimum temperature in Winter of at 
least 55 degrees. The others will do all right with the thermometer 15 
degrees lower. With the greenhouse kinds loam should predominate in 
the potting soil, but the others should get a greater quantity of leaf soil. 
For other kinds commonly grown see Dracaena. 

CROTON— The Croton or Codiseum, as it is now called, has in the 
warmer parts of the country forged its way to the front as a choice bed- 
ding plant, and very deservedly so, as the species and varieties are a 
very satisfactory class of plants and much easier to handle than was 
generally supposed a few years ago, when they were coddled all the year 
round in hothouses. Several of the kinds are so easily grown that they 
can be got up with as little trouble and as cheaply as [geraniums; but 
they are, of course, not the choicest varieties. Those stock plants which 
were planted out early in May (that is a safe period here, but, of course, 
later in colder latitudes) will, by the middle of August, have made good 
ripened wood, which should be selected for propagating early in Septem- 
ber. The cuttings at that period should be large and put in the bed 
with only a few of the lower leaves removed. Let them form quite a 
large bunch of roots in the propagating bed before being potted, as they 
are a trifle miffy to take with the soil when they have only a scanty 
supply of roots— enough to comfortably fill a 4-inch pot will be about 
right. Those plants will need shifting during the Winter, and if kept in 
a warm, moist house, will be well furnished plants in 5 and 6-inch pots 
by bedding out time. The principal batch of the commoner kinds for 
bedding may be put in by the middle of January. The old plants which 
were lifted from the beds in the Fall should be pruned back severely, and 
all the growth available for propagating selected. A good bottom 
heat and a humid atmosphere are necessary to root the cuttings at 
this time, as the wood is not in a very ripe condition. Cuttings put in 
at any time should not be taken from plants which are dry at the root, 
as they are then apt to lose leaves in the cutting bed. Cuttings 8 or 10 
inches in length root as easily as the easiest rooting soft-wooded plants 
if given a good bottom heat and a depth of 4 or 5 inches of sand. There 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 23 

is no necessity to have a frame; the open propagating bed will answer 
nicely. Those plants which are intended to be planted out-of-doors 
should have the hardening-off process begun by the end of April; if 
taken directly from a hothouse the bottom leaves will fall off. Old 
plants which did duty during the Summer monthsas bedders,and which 
were planted out instead of being plunged in pots, should be kept well 
syringed after being potted and housed, as they are very liable to the 
attacks of thrips and red spider. When plants intended to be lifted in 
the Fall are put out in May, I believe it is the best plan to sink pot and 
all. They seem to thrive best with restricted root room so that when 
lifted, although a few roots may be developed on top and outside the 
pot, it is safer when lifted to shift them into larger pots than to lift and 
pot plants which have been growing in the soil of the bed. With these 
it is almost certain to be the case that a considerable number of leaves 
will be lost. Most of the finer kinds will need a temperature of at least 
60 degrees by night, keeping the air moist and giving water by frequent 
sy ringings. Large cuttings in the sand bed or propagating frame should 
be examined now and then, to guard against thrips and red spider. If 
these pests appear, a syringing with a weak solution of the old reliable 
Gishurt's Compound will prove beneficial. 

Ringing Crotons — This simple operation is brought into requisition 
when it is desired to root the top part of any particularly fine specimen. 
The stem of the parent plant may be destitute of leaves for a considera- 
ble distance above the pot, making the plant comparatively useless as a 
specimen and only useful as a stock plant. Einging, if successfully per- 
formed, will give an almost perfect plant a foot or so high with large 
leaves right down to the soil— a condition we can hardly hope for from 
cuttings. Moreover, the rooted top sends out such a mass of working 
roots that the succeeding growth is not stunted, but continues making 
leaves every bit as large as the lowest ones — a condition much to be 
desired when an evenly built up plant is wanted. Plants, then, should 
be selected which have good, healthy tops with finely-colored, well- 
developed leaves, and if the bottom part near the pot has lost its leaves 
this is the only use it can be put to. The house in which the operation 
is peformed should be a warm one and shaded from the sun, so that the 
material used to produce roots will not dry up too quickly. Select 
those pieces which are dormant or have made their growth, because if 
plants are taken during the process of making leaves they are bound to 
carry some disfigurement afterward. The stem at the place to be rooted 
should be denuded of the leaves for two or three inches of its length, and 
with a sharp knife remove a small section of the bark; or, just as good, 
make an incision in the wood upward of about three-quarters of an inch 
in length, and in depth from one-third to one-half the diameter of the 
stem. Insert a little sphagnum moss to keep the incision open, then tie 
a small quantity around it, not too much or it will be apt to keep too 
wet. After being tied small enough, so that the fingers can easily close 
on it, stand the plant back in its place and see that the moss does not 
suffer for want of water, because should this happen the tender tips of 
the roots will be lost and the process of rooting will to a certain extent 
have to be begun again. 



24 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

As soon as the roots show through the moss the plants should be 
potted, but not potted in the ordinary way. Many pots are broken 
trying to get plants out of them, but in this case we will have to break 
pots to get the plants in. Thumb pots are quite large enough for the 
first shift; and these must be broken into two pieces lengthwise. One- 
half of one pot and one-half of another will not do, as the pieces must fit 
closely, therefore break as many pieces as are wanted, and lay the pieces 
one on top of the other before beginning the operation of potting. Sup- 
ports must also be supplied, consisting of two sticks, one on each side, 
and reaching to the mossed part of the stem. On one of the sticks, just 
about where the middle of the pot will reach, twist a piece of wire, then 
clasp the moss with the two pieces of pot, twist the wire firmly around 
these and then on to the other stick. This will keep the pot in position 
until the time to sever the top from the plant. This condition will be 
indicated by the roots appearing through the bottoms of the pots. If 
the tops are not of the largest size they can be cut off and placed in a 
close frame for a few days before potting on; if , instead, they are large, a 
further application of material to the mossed part will be necessary. 
For this purpose 3-inch pots will have to be used, and the material 
should be fibrous peat, sand and loam mixed. When the roots show, 
the tops may be cut off. Stand the pots inside of others of the same size 
in the frame, until they recover to a certain extent, then pot and keep 
close for a while longer, gradually giving air. 

CURCULIGO— From the general appearance of the foliage one would 
suppose that these plants were members of the Palm family instead of 
being related to the Amaryllis. The leaves resemble those which are 
undivided of Cocos flexuosa. C. recurvata is the only species grown. 
The form with variegated leaves is one of our handsomest variegated 
plants. During growth they require stove temperature for their perfect 
development. They stand in a dwelling house fairly well. Propagation 
is by division. Almost any kind of soil will answer; but as the plants 
need large quantities of water the drainage should be perfect. 

CYCAS— Cycas revoluta stems are often spoiled as a result of the 
treatment they get in the way of potting immediately after being im- 
ported. Having few or no roots they should not be placed in large 
receptacles, as the soil when once watered takes too long a time to dry 
out, and is apt to become sour, which is anything but a favorable con- 
dition to tempt the growth of fresh roots. Put the stems into as small 
pots as they will go, leaving just enough space to ram the soil tightly 
around them with a thin piece of wood. They will start into growth 
best when in a warm, moist house, and require little water until they 
show signs of sending up a crop of leaves. Plants of this class make 
their annual crop of leaves, not one after the other, as is the case with 
Palms, but simultaneously, and at this period they require close watch- 
ing, so that the foliage may be prevented from being deformed in any 
way from insect attacks, cold drafts, or coming in contact with other 
things during development. The temperature should be higher at this 
period than at any other. When roots are formed and a sufficient time 
has elapsed after the development of the fronds, the plants may be given 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 25 

larger pots. A minimum temperature of 50 degrees will suffice during 
Winter. 

CYCLAMEN— Cyclamen seeds, to insure even germinating, should be 
sown as soon as convenient after ripening. The seeds ripen from April 
to June. The sowing season is from September to the beginning of 
December, and the seeds, between the harvesting and sowing periods, 
should be kept in an open-mouthed bottle, mixed with dry sand. Al- 
though the seed may be held for years it loses in vitality the longer it is 
kept. The best flowered Cyclamens are varieties of C. persicum. Several 
named varieties are offered by the large dealers, but when once a satis- 
factory strain is secured the best plan is to set aside a few plants of each 
color, and by artificial pollination each flower will ripen a capsule of 
seed. To have plants in bloom by Christmas the seedlings will consume 
from 12 to 14 months in completing their growth, and during that 
period they should never be allowed to rest by withholding water, or 
be subjected to other conditions unfavorable to ■continuous growth. 
The seed should be sown in shallow pans or boxes, in light sandy soil, 
and covered to very little more than their own depth with finely sifted 
soil and sphagnum, two parts of the former to one of the latter. The 
swollen root-stock is formed before the first leaf makes its appearance, 
and when the first leaf is fully developed the seedlings are ready for 
pricking off. During this process a minimum temperature of 55 degrees 
will be sufficient. The seedlings may be put directly into thumb pots, 
pricked off around the sides of 4 or 5-inch pots, or into shallow boxes, 
keeping them at all times near the light, and in as uniform a state of 
moisture at the roots as possible. By the middle of May those in the 
most advanced stages of growth should be in 4-inch pots. At this time 
they should get the full light from the north side of a house, the plants 
being placed on inverted pots, and as near the glass as possible. The 
glass on the south side should be shaded. For Summer quarters frames 
are the best. The bottom should have a few inches of ashes to retain 
moisture. The sash may be raised a few inches above the woodwork 
by running pieces of wood along top and bottom. The best shading 
device is probably a piece of cloth fixed to a roller, so that it may easily 
be stretched over the glass during the hottest part of the day, or the 
glass may be covered with one of the shading mixtures. Heavy rains 
should not strike the plants, but they will be benefited by removing the 
sash in the evenings, replacing them as the temperature gets too warm 
the following morning. Greenfly, the cyclamen's greatest insect enemy, 
may be removed by periodical syringings, or by scattering tobacco 
stems among the pots. The plants should be shifted on as necessary, 
the very latest ones getting their last transfer about the 1st of Novem- 
ber, the earhest plants at least a month sooner. Well-developed speci- 
mens should easily fill an 8-inch pan. The soil should consist of loam 
mixed with lesser quantities of old manure and leaf mould; a little sand 
and crushed charcoal will help to keep the mass in a porous condition. 
In potting, the corm, or swollen stem, may be half buried in the soil; 
careful drainage is necessary. As soon as there is danger from frost the 
plants are removed indoors; and to give good stiff stalks to the flowers 



26 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

full light and an abundance of air should be afforded on all favorable 
occasions. 

CYTISUS in one or two forms is mainly grown as a midspring 
flowering plant. Cuttings are rooted in February. The young plants 
may be grown on in frames. Frequent syringings are necessary to com- 
bat the attack of red spider. Pinch back the strong growths as soon as 
they show a tendency to outgrow the others. Keep cool during Autumn 
and the early Winter months. 

DALECHAMPIA ROEZLIANA belongs to the same family as the Poin- 
settia, and, like it, grown solely on account of its bracts, which are rose 
colored. It is a warm house plant, but may be plunged outside in Sum- 
mer to make abundant growth. 

DESriODIUn GYRANS— A plant of little beauty, but very interesting 
because of the movements of its lateral leaflets, which are continuous in 
a suitable temperature. Propagated by seeds or cuttings in a warm 
house. 

DRACAENA — D. Godseffiana is a plant of recent introduction; the 
leaves are short, somewhat resembling in shape and coloring those of the 
old D. phrynioides. D. Godseffiana, however, has the markings lighter. 
When planted out in Summer, and well supplied with water, it makes 
considerable growth. Every small twig may be rooted. Perhaps the 
best use to which it may be put is in association with small ferns in 
pans. 

Dracaena Sanderiana I am afraid will never occupy a very important 
place among decorative plants, because single plants do not make much 
of a show in 5 or 6-inch pots. On account of its variegated foliage and 
slender habit it can be used among ferns and mosses for jardiniere work. 
Pieces of the stem with two or three leaves attached root quickly with 
bottom heat. If wanted for filling pots above 5 inches, three or four 
must be potted together. 

D. Goldieana is a handsome stove plant with short, broad leaves, 
irregularly marbled with dark green and dull white. Tops may be 
rooted and the canes left to sprout; or they may be cut up, sprouted 
and rooted, as in the case of Cordyline terminalis. 

D. fragrans, the most useful of the genus, grows 12 feet high, but 
small specimens are well furnished with leaves. The plants will stand 
much rough usage. 

D. Lindenii and D. Massangeana are variegated forms. In propagat- 
ing, when the stems have leaves, cut into lengths with a leaf or two to 
each, and root like ordinary cuttings. These make stock plants. Long 
leafless stems should be cut into lengths of about a foot and buried in 
warm sand and moss. They sprout freely ; the sprouts should be taken 
off and rooted afresh before potting. The plants need slight shade in 
Summer. All three require abundant root room and well enriched 
porous soil, else they will show a sickly yellow hue on the leaves. 




STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 27 

DROSERA BINATA, the finest of all the Sundews, a native of Austra- 
lia, growing about 1 foot in height, will succeed in a cool greenhouse. 
Give soil same as recommended for Nepenthes, covering with live moss. 
This is an exceedingly attractive plant for private greenhouses. In early- 
Spring the leaves catch myriads of male greenfly; and the plant may 
be regarded as a friend of the horticulturist. 

DICHORIZANDRA THYRSIFLORA— Of the Tradescantia family, and 
usually grown as a stove plant. In this capacity, unless given abun- 
dant root room, the flowers are not produced in abundance. South of 
Philadelphia it may be used as a choice subject for the open border in 
Summer. The flowers, of a rich dark blue and the stamens yellow, are 
borne on the upright shoots of the current year's growth, which is about 
2 feet in height. The flowering shoots may be cut in pieces, with a 
single leaf to each if necessary, and rooted in the hot propagating bed. 
They may be kept in a semi-dormant state during the Winter, as the 
plants will form thick tuber-like roots. 

DIEFFENBACHIAS— Some of the old plants of these ornamental aroids 
will, by the end of Summer, have grown lanky, bending over the pots, 
with only a few leaves terminating the stem. Take the tops off and put 
them in the sand bed; lay the stems aside in a warm, airy place to dry 
for three or four days, then cut them into lengths of about 2 inches. 
Lay these aside to dry for a similar period, first rolling them in pow- 
dered charcoal to lessen the danger of decay. Put in a box of nearly 
dry sand, cover over about an inch and stand on the floor of a warm 
house. When a few small leaves have been made to each sprout, pot in 
a mixture containing at least one-third of its bulk of chopped sphagnum 
moss; keep warm and moist. The tops, as soon as fairly well rooted, 
should be potted, not in ordinary soil, but in a mixture of chopped 
sphagnum, manure, leaf mould and sand. In this mixture the roots 
fairly revel, provided a strong moist heat is given. In potting Dieffen- 
bachias put them into as small pots as possible, and when a shift is 
necessary they may be placed three together in a pot, making a well 
furnished appearance in a comparatively short time. D. Baraquiniana, 
Jenmanii, Veitchii, Bausei and grandis are among the best. They won't 
stand much rough usage, being somewhat soft in the foliage; they are, 
however, easily got up in quantity. 

ECHEVERIA (COTYLEDON) GIBBIFLORA HETALLICA takes a promi- 
nent place among serviceable flowering plants during January and Feb- 
ruary. It is one which is attractive either in or out of bloom, and its 
cultivation is unattended by any serious difficulties. When done bloom- 
ing, which will be in a short time, its propagation may be gone about 
as follows: Takeoff the top of the main growth with as much stem 
attached as will enable it, when rooted, to go 2 or 3 inches into the soil; 
to root them, take as many 4-inch pots as there are tops, stand them 
on the bench, put a little moss in the bottoms, and then place a cutting 
in each; this will cause the cut part to callus over without the danger 
of rotting. In a short time the stems will give out hair-like roots, and 
when these are from one-half to three quarters of an inch long, the cut- 
tings may be potted, using soil on the dry side, and kept rather dry 



28 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

until the plants have made roots enough to demand water. On the old 
stumps rosettes of leaves will form, which in time may be taken off and 
potted. 

EICHORNEA— The Water hyacinth, Eichornea crassipes may be utilized 
as amost attractive tub plant in the following manner: Put, say three 
plants, in as many 5-inch pots of rich soil; fill a tub with water and sink 
the pots just under the surface. Beyond wanting water to replace that lost 
by evaporation they will take care of themselves; the surface will be- 
come a thick mass of plants, with fresh flowers opening every morning. 
Although this plant floats on water naturally, without the roots being 
fixed in soil, it also flourishes in saturated ground at a surprising rate, 
keeps a fresh, green appearance, and produces myriads of flowers; it is 
well worth a trial for unsightly marshy spots. 

Eichornea azurea is an interesting relative of the above, with darker 
colored flowers. It is useful for planting around the margins of ponds, 
covering quite a large water surface during a Summer's growth. Both 
species are easily kept over Winter by placing a few on the surface of a 
warm tank. They increase very rapidly during early Spring. 

EPIPHYLLUMS— Epiphyllums are usually grown as standards; that 
is, grafted on the stems of other plants. This method is necessary, be- 
cause the branches have a procumbent habit when the plants are on 
their own roots. Rooted cuttings may be grown on and used in baskets 
or other hanging receptacles. The species, three in number, and the 
numerous varieties make very handsome Winter-flowering plants. Their 
cultivation is simple. The stocks for grafting are usually Pereskia 
aculeata and P. Bleo. The latter is the more robust grower, and there- 
fore most suitable for tall specimens, P. aculeata being used for dwarf 
ones. Cuttings of the Pereskias, which, of course, belong to the Cactus 
tribe, may be rooted any time after the wood is fairly ripe. They may 
be put in a dry and warm part of the propagating bed, and given water 
only after they show signs of sending out roots. To graft, select stock 
in which the wood is sufficiently firm; cut off the top part, make a cut 
down the center for three-quarters of an inch or so, then insert a piece of 
the ripened growth of the Epiphyllum, and run one of the Pereskia spines 
through the whole to keep it firmly together, or tie with raffia until the 
union is completed. This will be effected in a few weeks in a good 
growing temperature. Have the Pereskias in as small pots as possible 
at the time of grafting, so that when the union between stock and cion 
takes place the plants will start growing quickly by being shifted into 
larger pots. The potting mixture should be very porous, as the least 
stagnation is fatal to the roots. Sandy loam, broken brick, old manure 
and a little leaf soil will be found best. 

ERANTHEMUn PULCHELLUM produces one of our brightest blue 
flowers. It is at its best in the greenhouse during late Winter. Put in 
cuttings during early Spring; plant in the open border as soon as 
weather permits, lift and pot in the Fall. Splendid specimens may thus 
be secured. 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 29 

ERICAS — Several years ago the growing of these plants in this coun- 
try for commercial purposes was regarded as an impossibility, even by 
those who were familiar with their culture in Europe. But now, we 
have them grown here as well as anywhere, simply by studying their 
needs, and carefully attending to their wants. Propagation of the sev- 
eral varieties may be effected during April before the active growth of 
the season gets too far advanced. Have no undesirable vegetable 
humus or mud in the sand. Secure a good-sized bucket, fill with sand 
and push the end of the hose to the bottom, allowing the water to run 
with considerable force for a few minutes. This will clean the sand of 
all impurities. Pans or pots for the cuttings should have perfect drain- 
age to within two or three inches from the surface; give about an inch 
of peat or leaf mould and sand at the bottom, covering with an inch or 
so of sand, which should be made firm. Keep close under glass while 
rooting at a temperature never above 60 degrees F. During the Sum- 
mer months keep the roots cool by plunging the plants in some porous 
material, never allowing them to get too wet or too dry. It may be 
stated here that roots of plants are divided into four classes— nutritive, 
attachment, contractile and storage. In the Ericas the nutritive roots 
are most abundant next the flower pot, so that an equable condition of 
moisture is necessary to their existence. 

E. persoluta, E. melanthera, E. gracilis and E. hyemalis, are a few of 
the very many kinds grown. 

ERYTHRINAS which are planted out in the back part of a cool frame 
adjoining a greenhouses, for the sake of their flowers in Summer, should 
get a mulching of stable litter to keep their roots snug for the 
Winter. In the colder parts of the country the covering should extend a 
foot or more up the stems, so that there will be no danger from freezing. 
In pruning leave as much of the stem as possible, only cutting off enough 
to enable the sash to slide into place. E. crista-galli and the variety E. 
laurifolia, together with E. Hendersoni, are the best for this purpose. 
Old plants which have been bedded out for the Summer will Winter all 
right beneath a bench, in a cold house, with some soil thrown over the 
roots. E. Parcelli and E. marmorata, both varieties of Indica, have 
variegated foliage. 

Propagation— By the beginning of February start some of the old 
plants of E. crista-galli, or any of its forms; they are far the best for 
Summer work. If not in pots the old stumps may simply be covered 
over at the roots with moss and given a minimum temperature of 55 
degrees. Syringe occasionally to encourage growths for cuttings. As 
soon as these growths are in the neighborhood of 4 inches in length take 
them off with a heel, put in 2-inch pots, using a sandy mixture, and 
keep them confined in a warm propagating case until they root; shift 
into larger pots and gradually harden off. 

EUPATORIUn PROBUn is the name of a species of this popular Winter 
flowering genus which we do not see much of, and which may be grown 
to come in after the well-known Stevia serrata goes out of flower. The 
flower heads are as large as those of S. elegans. The only drawback to 



30 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

its use as a cut flower is the clammy or viscid nature of the stems 
and leaves. The plant is said to be a native of Peru; it was introduced 
nearly thirty years ago, but has never become popular, supposedly from 
its being confined to European gardens ever since. Two desirable Win- 
ter bloomers with dark lilac or purple flowers, are known as E. ianthi- 
num and E. macrophyllum. They are of little service for cutting from. 
Plant out in late Spring after they are done flowering. This will give 
good material for cuttings in September. E. macrophyllum is the 
stronger of the two. Cuttings grown on in a warm, sunny house will 
fill 5-inch pots by the first of March, and have very large panicles of 
flowers. 

EUPHORBIA (POINSETTIA) PULCHERRIMA — Poinsettias are grown 
not on account of the flowers, which are small and inconspicuous, but 
for the highly colored bracts which surround them. The flowers are 
produced in midwinter. Both for cutting and as pot plants Poinsettias 
are highly popular. There are three kinds in cultivation — E. pulcher- 
rima, which is most commonly grown; E. p. plenissima, having a larger 
number of bracts, and E. p. alba, with creamy white bracts. The kinds 
are propagated in two ways, from dormant wood and from green cut- 
tings. In employing the former method the old plants, after the flowers 
have been cut, or in the case of pot plants, after the flowers have de- 
cayed, the stems should be allowed to ripen thoroughly, by gradually 
withholding water and subsequently placing them beneath the stage of 
a warm house; while there they should be kept free from moisture at 
the roots. During March the canes which can be spared should be taken 
off and cut into lengths of about 4 inches. After the milky sap has 
stopped exuding from the lower part of the cuttings, they should be 
washed in warm water and dipped in powdered charcoal previous to 
being placed in the warm propagating bed. While rooting the sand 
should be kept on the dry side, only giving enough water so that the 
roots will obtain sufficient nourishment. Instead of being allowed to 
make long, spindling roots in the sand they should be potted in thumb 
pots immediately the roots appear. Put a small quantity of rough 
screenings in the bottom of each pot, and have the soil (loam and sand 
in equal parts is best) in a fairly moist condition, so that a very slight 
sprinkling through a fine rose will suffice for the first few days. When 
green cuttings are preferred the plants may be started into growth after 
the end of April. Shake the soil from the roots and repot in rather small 
pots. In removing the old soil it will be found that the nutritive roots 
are decayed and only the storage roots remain. On coming into con- 
tact with moist soil these storage roots speedily send out feeding roots, 
followed by the expansion of the dormant buds on the canes. When the 
growths are a few inches long they may be taken off with a heel, potted 
singly and put in a close frame; or simply rooted in the sand bed and 
potted when roots are formed. If kept growing without a check plants 
from green cuttings will give the largest heads of bracts. Batches of 
cuttings may be put in at intervals during the Summer. When well 
started in pots all the plants may be placed in a sheltered position out- 
of-doors, but in the full sun. When the pots in which they are to bloom 
get full of roots clear liquid manure may be given with good effect. 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 31 

Plants rooted during midsummer from green cuttings may be grown on 
benches, much in the same way as single-stemmed Chrysanthemums are 
grown. Before the approach of cool weather all the plants should be 
removed indoors, as they will lose their leaves on being subjected to 
low temperatures. The wilting of the flowers of Poinsettias, or rather 
of the gaudy colored bracts which surround the flowers, is due to the 
milky sap secreted from the cut part. This hardens to a greater or less 
extent, and clogs up the vessels through which the water should ascend 
to keep the flowers and foliage fresh. A good way to circumvent this 
is as follows: Some little time after the stems- have been cut and a 
goodly quantity of the milky sap has run out, cut off a small piece from 
the end of the stem and stand the cut ends in warm water for a few 
minutes. This will leave the cut part free to absorb all the water neces- 
sary for their support. Blooms which have been drooping for a consid- 
erable time may be revived in the same way. 

Euphorbia Elegans (better known as E. jacquiniseflora) is less 
easy to manage than the Poinsettia. A start should be made with soft 
cuttings, with a heel or piece of the old wood attached. They should 
be put in the open propagating bed instead of a frame, as their leaves 
are very liable to decay, owing to the dampness. Place in 2-inch pots 
and gradually shift on, keeping the plants in the full sun. Too much 
water at the root should be guarded against. After midsummer the 
plants may be plunged in an open frame to ripen their growth, and 
removed indoors before the weather shows signs of getting cool. 

EURYA LATIFOLIA VARIEGATA— Put in cuttings of this about the 
same time as given for Azaleas. It is a plant very useful for decorating 
and one which we see too little of. Give the same treatment in Summer 
as recommended for Araucarias. 

EXACUM AFFINE is the name of a compact bushy Gentian-wort, 
which gives a very good account of itself for Winter flowering in a mod- 
erately warm house. Theflowers are bluish purple with yellow stamens 
protuding from the center of the flower. It doesn't have the provoking 
habit of some of the Gentians in closing its flowers during the latter 
part of the day. Seed sown beginning of July will make fine plants by 
the Fall. As soon as the seedlings are large enough they may be plunged 
in a frame, where they will need but little attention, as they do not suffer 
from an occasional drying out. 

FICUS ELASTICA is one of the most popular house plants, and one of 
the most suitable for this purpose. The leaves are large and leathery 
and not easily hurt through occasional neglect. Complaints are some- 
times made of plants losing their lower leaves; in old plants this is 
natural, as evergreen plants have their season of leaf shedding. Young 
plants will lose leaves through insufficient or too much moisture or lack 
of nourishment. 

Mossing Out-of-Doors— Between old stocks of rubbers planted outside 
and those kept in pots there is quite a difference in the quality of growth. 
Those given unlimited root room in the open lot have a somewhat suc- 
culent growth with the leaves far apart, and altogether not in the best 



32 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

condition for purposes of propagation. These may merely be notched 
below every second leaf previous to inserting in the sand bed later on. 
Plants growing in pots or tubs have much firmer growth, well ripened, 
with the leaves quite close together ; elegantly suitable for providing 
tops which may be rooted in large pieces and make salable plants in a 
short time. To go about this operation successfully make preparations 
during the first half of August by tying the growths to supports. Those 
which answer the purpose best are pieces of wire stakes tied along the 
stem, then at the point where it is desired to root the pieces remove just 
enough of the leaves and make an incision in the stem upward toward 
the growing point. Insert a little sphagnum moss, wait a day or so, 
remove the moss; bathe with warm water to remove the congealed sap, 
which, if left, will hinder a complete callusing of the cut part. Insert 
fresh moss and tie a handful over the incision; keep moist until the roots 
are showing through. The pieces should then be cut off, put in small 
pots and placed in a close stucture for a few days until the roots begin 
to take with the soil. Syringe only during that period. This is a very 
important point. After potting either mossed shoots or cuttings (if 
the soil is in a good working condition; that is, neither too wet nor dry) 
absolutely no water should be given for a day or two; the atmosphere 
kept moist, and an occasional syringing will be all that is necessary. 

House=Grown Plants— Rubber plants which are grown all Summer in 
a house in a moist, high temperature, have a very different appear- 
ance from those which are grown out-of-doors in the full sun, and the 
difference is by no means in favor of the house-grown stock. The 
leaves are naturally weaker, without the well-developed appearance of 
the outdoor grown plants, and if the root conditions of the outside 
plants are perfect, with a good mulch over the sunken pots, the growth 
will be every bit as rapid in young plants, if not more so, with the 
addition of a constitution which enables them to stand a whole Winter 
in a dwelling house without injury. The variegated rubbers are indoor 
plants, as they are apt to get scorched by the sun's rays unless given a 
partially shaded situation. For keeping stock plants of these varie- 
gated varieties it will be found a good plan to have them in rather 
small pots and encourage roots from the stems, especially from those of 
old plants. These stem roots, when they get among a mixture of ma- 
nure and moss between the pots, or even among wet gravel, make 
astonishing growth, causing the plants to give an abundant supply of 
material for cuttings, which they are otherwise slow to do when grown 
in the ordinary way. Cuttings notched for a few weeks, taken off and 
placed in sand with a brisk bottom heat, root quickly. Rubber plants 
will keep in a dormant state even in a high temperature, with abundant 
humidity in the atmosphere, by being kept dry at the roots. 

Indoor Rubbers for Stock Plants— Reserve a place at the end 
of a warm house for large over-grown plants. They make quicker 
growth indoors during the warm months than they do outside, and for 
the purposes of single-eye cuttings, the wood is preferable, as the spaces 
between the leaves are longer. They should be planted in a solid bed. 
If the old soil be unsuitable remove it to a depth of about 18 inches; 
put some broken brick, clinkers or stones in the bottom for drainage, 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 33 

some old leaves on top of this, and fill up with rich porous soil. Plant 
moderately close together, pruning back those which require it; with a 
few good stock plants a plentiful supply of growth for cuttings, or for 
mossing, will be the result. The rubber when well grown can always 
be depended upon as a ready selling plant. 

Cuttings root poorly sometimes, and there are several causes. Single- 
eye pieces are dibbled in an open bed with the leaf pierced by a stick to 
keep it in an upright condition. During the process of rooting the cut- 
ting is nourished/to a large extent by the moisture taken in by the under 
part of the leaf; that is, when it lies flat on the sand, which it should 
do. They will in this position root quicker and better. Another cause 
of frequent failure is in taking the cuttings at the wrong time. The 
plants have a period of rest and a period of growth. When a shoot is 
in the process of developing a leaf rooting should not be attempted; 
better wait till every part is ripened, then rooting is an easy matter. 
In potting off do not allow the roots to get beyond an inch in length 
while in the bed. They sustain injury easily when coming in contact 
with anything. In lifting from the bed place the cuttings in a box with 
the rooted ends resting on one side of the box, and not too many of 
them together. Use soil of the same temperature as the sand. Two- 
thirds loam and one-third sand is a good medium to start with; 3-inch 
pots should be used. A shift will be necessary within three weeks. 

Slow Rooting Species, and there are several of them in common use 
for sub-tropical bedding in Summer, will be resting by the end of Janu- 
ary unless they are kept in a very warm house; and in this condition 
ringing and mossing, as the best means of increasing the number, had 
better be attended to. Those which are slow in taking root in the cut- 
ting bed, but quick to respond to the ringing process, are as follows: 
F. dealbata, F. Porteana (a shade tree from the Philippines, by the 
way), F. nymphsefolia, F. macrophylla, F. ferruginea and F. eburnea. 
While on the subject of Rubbers I may mention that for covering damp 
walls in greenhouses for ornamental effect Ficus repens has been em- 
ployed for a long time, but there is a species, new to me, which is a bet- 
ter one for the purpose, judging by what I have seen of it. It is named 
Ficus falcata, and is well termed, as the leaves resemble nothing so much 
as a short knife blade. The plant grows very fast, has very dark green 
foliage and sticks close to the substance against which it is placed. A 
good way to start young plants climbing, so that they may be easily 
transferred to permanent positions, is to fix the end of a piece of board 
jinside of a pot, allowing a space above the pot 6 inches broad and 12 
inches long; then pot the young plants close against the wood. 

FUCHSIA— Old plants of Fuchsias should be started by the middle of 
December to provide wood for cuttings. The plants should be knocked 
out of their flowering pots, the balls reduced and given fresh soil. Place 
them in heat and syringe freely. The growths for cuttings will start 
almost immediately. Do not take growths for cuttings which have 
been on the plants all Winter, as the wood is bound to be a trifle hard 
and does not turn out the best plants; better wait till the growths are 
tender enough. Even young growth, with the wood on the hard side, 



34 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

does not make good cuttings. These should be taken off during the period 
of fairly rapid growth and kept growing right along, or they will be 
apt to remain stunted and come into flower before the plant is fully 
developed. Fuchsias will bloom in 3-inch pots, but by keeping them in 
a growing state, with abundant root room, they can easily be grown, 
according to the variety, from 2y 2 to 4 feet in height, before the flower 
buds make their appearance. If wanted to bloom in 5-inch pots, pinch 
back the leading shoots, and when the pot is well filled with roots give 
weak liquid manure frequently. This will prolong their blooming sea- 
son. A single supporting stick for the main stem will be all that is 
necessary, with perhaps a few supporting strings for the lateral shoots 
in the case of those varieties having large double flowers. The soil 
should be well enriched with manure. 

FURCR/EA— A genus of plants closely allied to the Agaves. They 
thrive with a little more heat than is usually given Century Plants, 
otherwise their cultivation is pretty nearly the same. There are about 
ten species in cultivation; those most commonly seen are F. cubensis, 
F. gigantea and F. longaeva. The varigated form of F. gigantea is an 
exceedingly handsome subject. 

GARDENIAS— These are only grown nowadays in general collections 
of plants. In Summer young plants will make good growth by being 
plunged among some porous material in a frame. Cuttings are taken 
from ripe growths. Plants will thrive in a warm, sunny greenhouse. 

GLOXINIAS— So easily do the leaves of the Gloxinia produce tubers, 
when properly manipulated, that it seems a roundabout way to get up 
a supply of plants from seeds. The only drawback to the first-named 
method, is that leaves are not always available in sufficient quantities 
for propagating purposes. When plants are wanted in bloom before 
midsummer, the seed should be sown in early Spring. The process of 
raising seedlings is simple enough, if given the necessary attention ; a 
little neglect, however, when in the younger stages of their growth, is 
very apt to occur, and that is the end of them. The seedlings are very 
fragile for some time after germinating, and if the soil gets a trifle too 
wet, or too dry, they suffer beyond repair. In preparing boxes or pans 
for seed, let the soil be very porous and light, leaf mould largely predomi- 
nating. Make very firm; give a watering, then sow; and if a covering 
be given it should be of the lightest possible nature. If the atmosphere 
gets at all dry, cover the receptacles with panes of glass, to prevent dry- 
ing. If care be taken the seedlings may be allowed to grow until large 
enough to be potted off singly in 2-inch pots, or they may be pricked off 
thickly into boxes previous to potting off. For flowering late in Sum- 
mer or early in Fall, sowings may be made as late as the beginning of 
July. In propagating from the leaves, various methods are employed. 
The one most commonly in use is to take the entire leaf, make incisions 
in the under parts of the principal veins (or they may be cut through); 
lay the leaves flat on the sand with the stalk buried, and give only 
enough water to prevent drying up. Small tubers will form at the inci- 
sions and at the end of the stalk. During this process no leaves are 
formed, and the tubers should be harvested and rested for the Winter in 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 35 

dry sand. This operation is best performed after midsummer. Another 
good method to get up stock of extra fine varieties from leaves, is to 
cut them in sections resembling the letter V, the lower part to consist of 
at least an inch of the midrib, and the leaf cut obliquely to the margin. 
Treat them similarly to the triangular-shaped cuttings of the Rex Bego- 
nias, so far as potting them in the sand goes; but keep on the dry side 
while forming tubers. Smaller tubers are made by this method than if 
the leaves were laid flat on the sand; consequently it should only be 
used when it is desired to make the most of extra good kinds. Old 
tubers are successfully wintered over in the pots in which they have 
flowered; or, to save room, they may be taken from the pots, the soil 
removed, and stored in boxes of dry sand, keeping in a minimum temper- 
ature of 60 degrees. In starting, bring to the light and give water, pot- 
ting up when about an inch of growth has been made. 

Diseases— The plants are liable to the attacks of a disease concerning 
which little appears to be known. It first shows itself in the leaves, 
small brownish spots appearing, as if the foliage had been burned by the 
sun. The diseased surfaces gradually enlarge until the health of the 
plant suffers to such an extent as to stop the growth of the flower buds. 
Probably careless watering at the roots has something to do with the 
trouble. Each plant should be examined at least once a day, because 
the broad leaves lying over the surface of the soil are apt to hide a very 
dry ball; and if the' plants go without water for any length of time 
when dry their usefulness is ended. 

Soil— The Gloxinia is fond of leaf soil, and it may be used to the extent 
of one-half the bulk, loam, sand and cow manure making up the balance. 
They are not deep-rooting plants. Large seed pans should be provided 
for the full-sized tubers. In saving seeds the capsules should be carefully 
watched else the seeds will be lost. Up to the time of bursting open the 
seed vessels are green; they split down the middle, suddenly exposing 
the seeds, which are easily displaced. 

GREVILLEA ROBUST A— This would be a popular plant were it not 
that its general appearance is suggestive of the rag- weed. It is a first- 
class house plant, and one very easy to get up. Seeds are sown in 
March. Pot singly when quite small, and when in 3-inch pots plunge in 
a frame until large enough for 5-inch pots. The plants will stand the 
full sun. A cool greenhouse will suit them in Winter. 

HAJ1ELIA PATENS — A tender shrub very well suited for growing in 
tubs. When the plants are in good health they are covered with flowers 
during the greater part of Summer. Propagated from ripe wood in 
early Spring. 

HEDYCHIUfl — These have long been grown in conservatories, where 
plenty of room is at command. In small conservatories they are not 
desirable. H. coronarium has pure white, sweet-smelling flowers. H. 
Gardnerianum and its hybrid form are useful for planting near the mar- 
gins of ponds, where their roots get an abundant water supply. They 
may be rested under a bench during Winter, 



36 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

HEERIA ROSEA and H. ALBA are easily managed greenhouse plants. 
They may be depended upon to give a liberal supply of bloom in Win- 
ter and Spring if they get anything like fair treatment. They are propa- 
gated by cuttings taken from soft wood in the Fall. 

HIBISCUS— The varieties of H. rosa-sinensis make first-class tub 
plants. When thus cultivated they need liberal feeding, being robust 
growers; and as the flowers are produced on the young wood there has 
to be an abundant supply of this to have them looking at their best. 
With the help of liquid manure bushes will thrive in the same tubs for 
years. Autumn-struck cuttings, if grown on during Winter, will give 6- 
inch pot plants by Spring. The varieties known as H. brilliantissimum 
and H. grandiflorus are the best singles among the crimson varieties. 
There are double reds, yellows and pinks; among the latter is " Peach 
Blossom," which I grew for the first time last year. It has exceedingly 
attractive flowers; the name describes the color of the flower well. The 
plant blooms in a small state. All of the kinds delight in a soil having 
a fair proportion of leaf mould. A quantity of crushed bone may be 
added when the plants have to occupy the pots or tubs for any length 
of time. The varieties of H. rosa-sinensis should be given a trial out-of- 
doors; they grow and flower very luxuriantly. They may be kept dur- 
ing Winter in a structure from which frost is excluded. In a low tern* 
perature, and kept dry at the roots, they are deciduous. 

HYDRANGEAS FOR POTS— Hydrangea hortensis and its varieties may 
be propagated either in Spring or Fall. When the work is done in 
Spring the cuttings must be taken from plants which are being forced in 
the greenhouse, the wood of which is in excellent trim for the produc- 
tion of strong, healthy roots. Those shoots which show no signs of 
blooming are the ones to be taken for propagation. The cuttings root 
very readily if given a syringing overhead two or three times daily. 
Pot in 3-inch pots and plant out from these about the middle of May. 
Or the plants may be potted into 5-inch pots and plunged in well-rotted 
stable manure. They are, however, easier looked after in the field, and 
there make plants every bit as good. Moreover, when lifted and potted 
they can be given fresh soil, which will suit them when taken in to force 
in the beginning of the year; whereas those in pots may not require 
shifting, so far as their size is concerned, and yet be benefited by fresh 
soil. Where Hydrangeas will stand the Winter some of each kind should 
be planted out permanently, so as to give an abundant supply of mate- 
rial for cuttings. These cuttings should be taken during the Autumn 
months, encouraged to fill their pots with roots, and then go to rest. 
When given a shift from 3-inch into 5-inch pots, and brought gradually 
into warmth, they develop very large heads of bloom, and toward the 
latter part of their development liquid manure is necessary. 

Forcing— To have the forms of Hydrangea hortensis in bloom early 
those plants which have been kept cool will by the middle of January 
have lost their foliage, but if any remain cut it off to within a short dis- 
tance of the stem. The plants, whether in 4, 5, or 6-inch pots, which 
show that an increased size may be given, will stand the operation bet- 
ter if the roots are disturbed as little as possible. The same size, or 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 37 

those larger, which cannot be shifted and the ball preserved intact, are 
best reduced when the soil is somewhat dry. Put in a cool house after 
potting, watering only to settle the soil f and syringe in order to start 
into growth. After a start has been made the heat and watering may 
be increased, and as the growth increases, weak manure water may be 
given frequently. 

iriANTOPHYLLUM— An indispensable plant for private collections; 
grows best in a cool greenhouse. Large plants need shifting only at 
long intervals, and for this reason the soil should have a good sprink- 
ling of crushed bone and charcoal. Increased by division. I. miniatum 
and its forms are the finest. 

INGA PULCHERRIMA — For flowering in a cool greenhouse during 
March and April, but only in roomy structures, there are few things to 
surpass this in the brilliancy of the flowers. These are arranged in heads 
with an enormous number of stamens, which are the principal attrac- 
tion. Take cuttings in February. 

IXORAS — This is hardly a genus for the florist to deal with, as the 
plants take more care than the prices obtained for them would permit. 
There are numerous species and varieties, all of which are attractive 
when well done. In the latitude of Washington, D. C, they make 
growth best when plunged outside, and some of them flower profusely 
out-of-doors. I. Colei is a good white; I. Williamsii, 1. coccinea, I. Chel- 
sonii and I. picturata are all very reliable species. They will thrive in 
the warmest house during Winter. Peat, sand, and a little h^am will 
make a suitable soil. Cuttings should be put in during March. 

JASMINUM GRANDIFLORUM— Although there are other meritorious 
species, this is the one usually grown. Plant out the young stock in 
May, and by the end of September they should be lifted and potted. 
Keep in an intermediate house. The plants will stand full sunshine. 

JUSTICIA (SCHAUERIA) CALYTRICHA— One of the best Winter flower- 
ing species, producing yellow flowers in large heads. Cut back after 
blooming to encourage growth for propagation. Keep the young 
plants in the greenhouse during Summer, as they are not of a robust, 
growing nature. 

J. (Jacobinia) carnea and J. rosea— Cuttings of these should be put 
in at the end of January; they root in a few days. The young plants 
should then be grown on and used for Summer flowering in the green- 
house. Almost any porous soil will suit them. 

LIBONIA PENRHOSIENSIS is a charming Winter flowering, dwarf 
evergreen shrub. Its culture is of the easiest description, and almost 
any soil will suit the plant. Put cuttings in the warm propagating bed 
during the latter part of February; plant out middle of May to make 
growth; lift middle of September and flower in a moderately warm 
greenhouse. 

LOPEZIA RACEHOSA (Mosquito Plant) makes an exceedingly weedy 
growth outside in Summer. Cuttings put in the beginning of Septem- 



38 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

ber, and the plants kept in a sunny greenhouse with a minimum tem- 
perature of 45 degrees, will give an amazing supply of bloom all Winter. 
This plant is desirable only for private colllections. 

MAHERNIA GLABRATA— A dense-growing, dwarf evergreen shrub, 
with small yellow flowers produced late in Winter. The flowers have 
an odor much resembling that of the violet. The cuttings should be 
made large, at least 6 inches in length. They should be taken before 
growth begins. The roots are sparingly produced. Put the rooted cut- 
tings at the sides of the pots, so that they will take easily with the soil. 

MALVAVISCUS MOLLIS and M. ARBOREUS are greenhouse plants 
which in Winter take up too much room as specimens, and should not 
be grown for that purpose, as the flowers are not freely produced. For 
outdoor planting they are good subjects, making a large mass of foliage 
dotted here and there with bright red flowers. The new M. lanceolatus 
from Mexico is the best for Winter flowering. The leaves are different 
in shape from those of the two first-named species, and it blooms more 
freely. Cuttings of all three root with the treatment given Coleus. 

MARANTA— Of this genus M. smaragdina and M. Porteana are the 
best. When well grown they are among the most ornamental foliaged 
plants in cultivation. For culture see Calathea. 

flEDINILLA— This magnificent flowering plant must have a high tem- 
perature, and should be in every collection of stove plants. The flowers 
are arranged in large, drooping racemes. Cuttings root well when 
placed in a pot of loose moss, in a warm frame, or on a well-shaded 
bench of a warm house. M. magnifica is the species most commonly 
seen. 

HETROSIDEROS ROBUSTA and H. SEMPERFLORENS are flowered 
from imported plants. The treatment given for Acacias will suit them. 

MONSTERA DELICIOSA— There are several excellent house plants 
which are very little known, on account of the difficulty experienced in 
propagating them in sufficient quantities. Among the best of this class 
is the Monstera, a subject almost unique in the vegetable kingdom, 
owing to the broad leaves having perforations all over their surfaces. 
It needs little pot room, but plenty of water; in fact, the pot may be 
placed in a saucer of water. It will continue to throw up leaf after leaf 
in a dwelling house just as well as if in a conservatory, the bright emer- 
ald green of the young leaves contrasting well with the deeper color of 
the older ones. The easiest method of propagation is to cut up the old 
stems to single eyes, and place in sand, in a warm house, where the cut- 
tings sprout in a few weeks. 

MUSA COCCINEA is sometimes grown for its brilliant red bracts. It 
is a dwarf species and needs stove temperature. For other species see 
Bedding Plants. 

riUSS^ENDA FRONDOSAand 1*1. LUTEOLA are handsome warm green- 
house plants, cultivated for their colored bract-like growths. 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 39 

NEPENTHES— These are known as East India Pitcher plants. In 
their native habitats they grow as vines. Under cultivation they are 
usually seen as dwarf, pot or basket plants. Nepenthes are very suita- 
ble for suspending from the roof of a greenhouse, as then the curiously- 
shaped appendages, or "pitchers," at the ends of the leaves are best seen. 
Moreover, some of the kinds have long leaves, and when the pitchers are 
half filled with liquid they hang lower than the base of the pot or bas- 
ket. In this case the plants must be suspended from the roof. Their 
cultivation, with the exception of a few species, is not difficult. There 
are between 30 and 40 species, found principally in the East Indian 
Islands. The temperature should not fall below 65 degrees at any time 
of the year, and from this it may rise to 90 degrees with safety. At all 
times I prefer growing these plants with as little ventilation as possible, 
as under those conditions growth will be more vigorous and a heavier 
crop of pitchers will be the result. Pruning is a very important matter 
in their cultivation. With the possible exception of N. bicalcarata, none 
of the kinds should be allowed to grow over a foot high. When a few 
pitchers have been formed, or are forming on a shoot, cut the end out; 
this will very materially help in the development of those in process of 
formation, and will cause new shoots to burst out on which more 
pitchers will be borne. The material in which to grow Nepenthes should 
consist of fibrous peat and sphagnum in equal parts. Charcoal, crushed 
bone and sand in small quantities may be added. During the growing 
season the plants must never be [allowed to get dry at the roots. One 
and two-year-old specimens are the most satisfactory, although some 
of the kinds will keep in good condition as long as they have good 
material in which to make fresh roots. Shade during bright sunshine, 
and syringe frequently. The sexes are on different plants, and so far as 
I have observed all the species and varieties will intercross. Seeds are 
sown on a finely prepared surface of chopped moss, covered with glass. 
As soon as they can be handled the seedlings are pricked off in small 
pots. Cuttings should be taken from the half-ripened shoots about the 
beginning of December; they should be cut to single eyes only when a 
large number of plants are wanted. Terminal growths, short and 
stocky, make the finest plants, and in a much shorter time than single- 
eye cuttings. In a propagating frame, with a bottom heat of 80 de- 
grees, plunge the cuttings in sphagnum; they may be either pushed 
through the hole of an inverted thumb pot or put in small pots, using a 
rooting medium composed of sphagnum, sand and charcoal. I much 
prefer the first method. Many beautifully marked hybrids have been 
raised in recent years; these are, as a rule, easiest grown. N. Masters- 
iana is one of the best; N. Dominiana, N. Henry ana, N. Williamsii, N. 
Outramiana, N. Siebrechtii and N. Amesiana are all well worth growing. 

NER1UM (OLEANDER)— Much grown as a tub plant, for which it is 
well suited. Old plants should be kept as dormant as possible during 
the Winter. Cuttings are rooted early in the season, and plunged out- 
side when established in pots. 

OCHNA MULTIFLORA is an interesting and beautiful cool greenhouse 
shrub. The flowers are yellow. The calyx, at first green, changes to a 



40 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

brilliant red on the ripening of the fruit. Propagated by Fall-struck 
cuttings. 

ORCHIDS— Although there is an immense number of species and forms 
of orchids few of them are grown solely for their cut flowers. Most of 
them produce flowers but sparingly, and are chiefly grown in private 
collections. A large number being hybrids very few of each kind are in 
cultivation; only those species and their varieties which are procurable 
in large quantities from their native haunts are grown for cutting from. 
Under favorable circumstances, and when their wants are understood, 
Orchids are as easily grown as any other class of plants. The epiphytal 
class has a growing and a resting period. During growth, as a rule, 
they need lots of water, and when resting they are kept on the dry side 
so as not to start shoots at the expense of the flowers. Shading is 
necessary as the sun gets powerful, and a stagnant atmosphere must be 
avoided at all times. 

Potting material— This is mainly to supply a reservoir for moisture 
during the growing period, and should consist of chopped fern roots, at 
least six months old before using, live sphagnum, charcoal and broken 
pots. If grown in pots or pans these should be filled two-thirds with 
crocks, the plant elevated above the rim of the pot, using lumps of the 
fern root, pieces of charcoal and finishing off with a thin layer of live 
sphagnum. The best time to pot is before the plants start growth. 

Calanthe— This is not an epiphyte, but a terrestrial Orchid growing 
among soil. It responds very readily to good treatment. As the 
demand for Orchid flowers is on the increase this must eventually be- 
come a popular genus. It is one of the few which allows of being prop- 
agated freely. Loam, peat, sphagnum and well-decayed cow manure, 
with a little sand added, will form a good mixture. Good drainage is 
necessary, as the plants, while growing, need heavy waterings. During 
the growing season a high temperature is necessary, lowering it and 
curtailing the supply of water when growth is completed. When done 
blooming either shake the plants from the soil and stand them in empty 
pots, or withhold water from the roots. They should be started in 
March. Careful watering is necessary at first. 

Cattleyas — These are the most popular Orchid flowers at present, 
owing to their large size and delicate colorings. C. crispa is in flower 
during July and later; C. labiata comes in during November. C. Triana? 
and C. Mossia? are the most profitable, as they bloom at a season when 
there is a demand for the flowers. Of both species there are numerous 
varieties. C. Trianse is in season from November to February, C. Mossiaj 
in May. 

Coelogyne cristata— If kept in a healthy condition at the roots this is 
a very free bloomer. The potting material should be examined after the 
flowers are gone, and if decayed replace with fresh material. In large 
specimens this is a tedious operation. A good size for flowering may 
go into 10-inch pans. By the beginning of June we place our plants 
under the shade of trees for four months, where they develop splendid 
growth. Their flowering season is during February and March, and 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 41 

immediately after, the shoots begin to push out. This species is easily 
divided. New growths sometimes push out not only from the base of 
last year's pseudo-bulb, but also from those of the two previous seasons. 

Cypripedium, the " ladies' slippers," are terrestrial and mostly ever- 
green (our native species being herbaceous). The evergreen kinds need 
copious supplies of water while growing, and even during the resting 
season they should not be allowed to get dry. They may be grown 
largely in peat and sphagnum. C. insigne, the one most frequently met 
with, is best grown cool. It should be kept outdoors during Summer, 
and to retard the flowering period may be kept in well-aired frames 
until there is danger from frost. C. Spicerianum requires a warm tem- 
perature, flowering in early Spring. 

Dendrobium nobile is one of the oldest and easiest grown of the den- 
drobes. D. formosum giganteum is an evergreen and requires heat. D. 
Phalamopsis is one of the finest for cutting, giving long stems without 
injuring the plant. 

Laslia anceps makes its growth from April onward. It is an abun- 
dant bloomer, but on account of its resemblance to some of the Cattleyas, 
and having smaller flowers, it is not so popular. Flowers in November 
and December. 

Odontoglossum — With the exception of O. citrosmum the species of 
this noble genus have a struggle for existence in this latitude. Further 
North they succeed better. O. Alexandras is one of the most popular. 

Oncidium varicosum and O. v. Rogersii — Both bear large panicles of 
pale yellow flowers. Both are natives of Brazil, blooming during early 
Winter. 

PALMS — This order furnishes the most important of our decorative 
plants. Out of the large number of known species, comparatively few 
are in cultivation, and of these a very limited number is grown by the 
florist for this special line of work. Those kinds which are raised in 
quantity are selected partly because they are easily and quickly grown. 
The seeds are obtainable in large quantities, and because the plants are 
exceedingly ornamental, and, as a rule, stand rough usage, to a certain 
extent, without showing bad effects. Palms may be divided into two 
sections— those with pinnate or feathered leaves and those with palmate 
or fan-shaped leaves. Latania, Livistona, Chamaerops, Rhapis, Corypha, 
Licuala and Thrinax are familiar examples of the section having fan- 
shaped leaves; while the feather-leaved section is represented by Kentia, 
Phcenix, Areca, Arenga, Cocos and Seaforthia. The commercial kinds 
are grown in very large quantities by several firms, and so cheaply are 
they offered that it does not pay to raise the seedlings in small quanti- 
ties. For collections rather lengthy lists of species are offered by several 
European seedsmen. The seeds should be covered to about twice their 
thickness in sandy soil and kept fairly moist and warm until they ger- 
minate. The drainage in the seed pan should be of such a nature that 
the roots can be easily removed from it, as very little is gained by pot- 
ting in a very young stage. In this section of the country nearly all of 
the species make rapid growth out-of-doors during the Summer after 



42 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

they have reached a certain stage, say in 6-inch pots. They are plunged 
in half-decayed stable litter and partly shaded with lath slats. Large- 
sized plants will bear the full sun, but not when taken directly from the 
greenhouse. When it is desired that plants shall occupy the same pots 
for any length of time, very little, if any, vegetable humus should be 
among the soil. Crushed bone and a little charcoal will be found bene- 
ficial. 

Areca (chrysalidocarpus) lutescens was grown largely as a decora- 
tive palm a few years ago, but owing to its tender nature it has been 
superseded by the Kentias. 

Cocos Weddeliana in a young state is exceedingly ornamental, the 
leaf divisions being narrow and close together. It will stand a lower 
temperature than is generally given. It is admirably adapted for the 
dwelling house. 

Kentia (Howea) Belmoreana and K. Forsteriana are two of the best 
kinds, either for house plants or decorating. When they reach a desira- 
ble size they should be kept on the cool side, as they will then be less 
liable to injury when used. 

Latania borbonica (Livistona chinensis) is the best known of all the 
fan palms. It should be grown under the same conditions all the time, 
otherwise some of the leaf stems will be short and others long, making 
an unsymmetrical specimen. 

Livistona rotundifolia makes a very neat, little specimen plant. The 
foliage is of a bright green color. This palm grows best in a warm 
house. 

L. Jenkensii is not much used as a decorative plant, but it is one of 
the most desirable for collections. 

Phoenix rupicola has taken the place of the older species. It is the 
most graceful of the genus. P. dactylifera bears the date of commerce. 

Euterpe edulis, Rhapis flabelliformis, Ceroxylon andicola, Corypha 
australis, Cocos plumosa, Seaforthia elegans, Stevensonia grandifolia, 
Licuala grandis and Caryota sobolifera are a few of the better known 
species grown in collections. 

PANDANUS VEITCHH— There are other variegated Screw Pines, but 
none approaching this one as a commercial plant. No one will dispute 
its right to a place among the best twelve decorative plants; in fact, 
most people would put it in a shorter list. As a bedder it stands our 
warmest weather without the least shade. As a dwelling-house plant 
it has no superior, and as a stove plant, owing to its beautifully striped 
leaves, it tends to relieve the dull monotony of green. There are good 
and bad forms common in cultivation; those to be avoided have mono- 
colored leaves, and leaves with dirty white variegation. The good one 
has almost pure white markings. In selecting stock plants take those 
which show lateral growths at or near the base of the plant. Large 
lateral growths do not make good specimens, but they should be rooted 
for subsequent use as stock plants. In rooting it will be found a good 
method to put each piece into a pot of sand and plunge in a propagat- 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 43 

ing bed having a brisk bottom heat. The large, succulent and easily 
broken roots which the cuttings make, being confined within the pots, 
will be nicely preserved by shaking out the sand and replacing it with 
soil, or by being shifted into larger pots, as the cuttings will keep many 
weeks in the sand after roots are made without injury. Stock plants, 
which get too large and have an abundance of grassy side shoots, will 
be encouraged to develop those if the young leaves of the main growth 
be torn out. Young plants, plunged out-of-doors during the end of 
May, should be examined from time to time, as the roots are apt to get 
outside the pots; larger-sized pots should then be given and the plants 
rep lunged. 

P. utilis is a green-leaved species, forming very handsome plants even 
in small pots. It stands well in a dwelling house, but, like P. Veitchii, 
must be kept on the dry side during the resting period. P. utilis is raised 
f i ..n seeds which, if fresh, germinate well. The soil for both kinds should 
bo porous and enriched with a small quantity of bone meal. 

There are several other species, none of them grown largely, being 
principally found in collections. P. javanicus variegatus is quite as 
handsome as P. Veitchii, but needs more heat in Winter, besides the 
hooked spines pointing two ways on each leaf is a feature very much 
against it. P. Baptistii is a handsome variegated plant, but too soft 
for use outside of a stove. The true P. graminifolius is not of much use 
outside of collections. 

PARIS DAISIES — For Winter blooming the cuttings should be put in 
during late Spring. By the end of July they should get their last pot- 
ting for the Summer, be pinched back and plunged, so as to make large 
heads for Winter-flowering. These Daisies can be made to pay during 
the dull months from the number of flowers which can be cut from 
them. They are not so common as they might be, and Daisies in Winter 
are very desirable flowers with some people. Large plants are useful 
about Easter time. Left-over plants in Spring can be planted out to 
furnish cuttings for Fall propagation, to give medium-sized plants in 
flower for early Spring sales. 

PAULLINIA THALICTRIFOLIA is an elegant plant for clothing the 
tops of unsightly tubs in which Palms and other plants are growing, 
being also useful for large vases. It stands the sun well. The foliage 
somewhat resembles the leaves of Adiantums. Cuttings in September 
are placed in heat. 

PHORMIUM TENAX and its forms are rather stiff-looking plants, espe- 
cially in a young state; older plants furnished with an abundance of 
foliage are more attractive. To increase, plant out in very sandy soil in 
May and divide in September. 

PERESKIAS — These are seldom grown for their value as decorative 
subjects. The flowers of several of the species are of a rather pleasing 
appearance, but they last only a short time and are not freely produced. 
Two of the species, P. aculeata and P. Bleo, are common in cultivation, 
and are used chiefly as stocks for the gaudy-flowered Epiphyllums, 
which see for treatment. 



44 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

PEPEROniAS— Useful little plants with peltate leaves, finely marked 
with bands of white between the principal veins. They grow best in a 
warm greenhouse with shade. Peperomia Saundersii is grown either 
for filling shallow pans, mixed with other plants, or as specimen plants 
for the window. P. maculosa and P. marmorata are also well worth 
growing. Propagation is effected at any time of the year by placing 
entire leaves, with a piece of stem attached, edgewise in sand. 

PHYLLAGATHIS ROTUNDIFOLIA belongs to the same family as the 
better known Sphoerogyne latifolia and Cyanophyllum spectabile. It 
somewhat resembles the former in general appearance. A few plants of 
it were given a test last year, outside during the Summer, in a position 
partly shaded from the sun. They behaved splendidly, and in a position 
like the above, where the surface of the soil is covered with some low- 
growing plant, such as Hydrocotyle or Lysimachia, to keep the sun 
from the roots, it may become a valuable feature for outdoor decora- 
tion. But for indoors, it may be used as a substitute for the more 
gaudy-leaved Sphoerogyne, as it succeeds in an atmosphere where the 
majority of greenhouse plants can be grown. Propagation for small 
plants is by the leaf, the petiole of which is inserted in sand, the blade 
lying flat on the surface and the ribs severed in several places. From 
the cut parts nearest the petiole, numerous small growths are made; 
these, when an inch or so high, may be potted up. For making speci- 
men plants quickly old subjects which have been encouraged to branch 
may be cut up, and the pieces inserted in pots in bottom heat. They 
send out roots very quickly. 

PHYLLANTHUS NIVOSUS and P. ATROPURPUREUS— These are hardly 
suitable as florists' plants, but for public or private establishments they 
should always be grown, as their foliage, in a young state especially, 
is most beautifully colored even when grown in the open air during 
Summer. In this latitude we plant them out along with other bedding 
material; they are exceedingly effective. The old plants are cut back 
severely in Autumn, potted and stored in a rather warm house. In 
February cuttings of the medium thick wood are taken, and rooted in 
strong heat. 

PHYLLOT^ENIUH LINDENH— This plant, which belongs to the Cala- 
dium family, should be employed for decorative purposes more than is 
the case at present; not only because the foliage differs from the small 
number of kinds of plants used for decorative work, but mainly for the 
reason that it will stand the rough treatment given to those plants 
more so than one would expect. It is a stove plant and one of the most 
ornamental. After a goodly number of leaves have been developed in a 
warrfi, moist atmosphere the plants will continue to keep up a presenta- 
ble appearance with ordinary greenhouse temperature, and they may 
even be used as house plants. The leaves are shaped somewhat like 
those of the fancy-leaved Caladiums; the texture is much firmer, the 
color is green with white markings along the principal veins. Propaga- 
tion is by division. Before repotting put the pieces in a warm sand bed 
to encourage fresh roots. 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 45 

THE PLUflERIAS are a neglected class of plants somehow ; we see 
them only in places where a general collection of stove and greenhouse 
plants are grown, and yet their flowers are large, showy and sweet 
smelhng. The stems and foliage have an ornamental character of their 
own. They make very rapid growth in Summer, being well suited for 
tub culture. The plants should be kept dry during Winter. The leaves 
will fall off early, and the pots or tubs in which the plants grow may be 
laid on their sides under the bench of a greenhouse. In propagating, 
which may be done best during February, the cuttings may be taken 
from 6 inches to a foot long; stand them upright or leaning against the 
back part of the propagating bench, but not with the bases buried in 
the sand. Nor should they be allowed any water for a week or two. 
After the cut part is well healed over they may be potted in almost dry 
sand, in which they root quickly if put in a brisk heat. 

PRinULA SINENSIS has not by any means been left behind in the im- 
provement of florists' flowers. The latest strains put on the market 
would almost be taken for new species by those who only knew the 
plants of 20 years ago. P. sinensis is a popular Winter blooming plant. 
The seed may be sown as early as the last of March to have plants in 5 
and 6-inch pots in bloom before Christmas. Later sowings should also 
be made, but it should be borne in mind that the plants make their best 
growth during cool weather. They may be summered in a well-aired 
and shaded frame. 

P. Forbesii is a wonderful species when we consider the enormous 
number of flowers produced on even small plants. Several plants may 
be potted together in shallow pans. 

P. floribunda has a very floriferous form named P. Isabellina; the 
flowers are creamy white. 

Primula obconica would seem to be in the process of being evolved 
from the rather inconspicuous flower of the type to one not unworthy 
to stand alongside those of the finest strains of Primula sinensis. One 
of the European seed firms, a year or two ago, offered seed under the 
name of ;P. o. grandiflora fimbriata, a sowing of which I made at the 
time. The resulting seedlings corroborated all that had been claimed 
for them. Some are heavily fringed, and range from pure white to deep 
rose. The largest individual flowers are a little short of being an inch 
and a half in diameter. The plants are exceedingly floriferous; some in 
6-inch pots have the foliage almost hidden with bloom. To have plants 
in flower by the first of the year the seeds should be sown as early in the 
season as possible. Cover the seed very lightly with finely screened 
sphagnum, moistening the surface whenever it shows signs of becoming 
dry. As soon as large enough to handle the seedlings may be either 
potted off singly, or placed around the edge of a 3 or 4-inch pot previous 
to giving them their first pots. During the Summer tne seedlings should 
be shaded from the sun and never allowed to get dry. They do not 
make much headway during the very hot months. The plants will not 
suffer if given their last shift just as they are coming into bloom. Keep 
in the coolest house. 



46 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

Fertilizing Primula Flowers— Any extra good forms of Primula sinen- 
sis or P. obconica, desirable on account of large flowers, shape, or color, 
should be set aside for seed. During the Winter months, when insects are 
scarce, fertilization will have to be done by hand, as it is rarely the case 
that a flower of Primula is fertilized by its own pollen. For seed plants 
preference should be given to those having the pistil protruding from 
the corolla tube. It may be stated that primroses have two kinds of 
flowers, each kind on separate plants, one having what is called the 
style elongated until the stigma shows plainly from the mouth of the 
tube formed by the bases of the petals, while the stamens are attached 
near the bottom of # this tube. In the other flower the positions of the 
organs are reversed, the style being shortened so that the stigma is 
more than half way down the tube; and the stamens are in full view 
near the mouth of the tube exactly in the position occupied by the 
stigma of the long-styled flower. The pollen of the Primrose is ripe 
before the petals are expanded, but at this stage the stigma of the same 
flower is not in a condition to receive it. Those flowers having elon- 
gated styles are easiest to manipulate, and if I am not mistaken, they 
are the best seed bearers. Pollen, from either short or long-styled 
flowers, may be applied to the stigmas. When it is necessary to fertilize 
those with short styles, it is, of course, impossible to get at the stigmas 
with a small brush, owing to the anthers filling the mouth of the corolla 
tube, but with a pair of small scissors the corolla tube may be snapped 
in two immediately below that part to which the stamens are attached, 
thus giving easy ingress to the stigma. Keep the atmosphere as dry as 
possible while the pollen is acting. 

REINWARDTIA (LINUH) TRIGYNUM and R. TETRAGYNUM are both 
desirable Winter flowering plants. R. trigynum is the best known; the 
other one has light yellow flowers and is the most floriferous. They 
may be planted outside, middle of May, and lifted during the end of 
September, if large specimens are required for the greenhouse; or from 
cuttings rooted in April they may be grown on in pots, pinching occa- 
sionally. R. trigynum is the only one which seeds freely. 

ROCHEA FALCATA or Crassula falcata, is the principal member of a 
small genus of plants indigenous to the Cape of Good Hope. The 
foliage is rather peculiar in that the leaves are thick, blunt and formed 
somewhat after the shape of a curved knife. The principal attraction 
lies in the flowers, which are bright scarlet, small, but produced in im- 
mense numbers in flat heads. Although in Summer it will stand an 
abundance of water in fully exposed situations, it should be given drier 
conditions in Winter. It will succeed well enough in a house suitable for 
Geraniums. The Rochea is a slow-growing plant, consequently getting 
up a stock is a tedious process. The tips of the shoots make the finest 
plants, and the pieces of the stem next the place where the tip has been 
taken off, can be utilized for as much of its length as will be safe to 
enable it to break out again. For leaf cuttings the leaves must be cut 
off cleanly and put in sand, much in the same way as Echeverias, only a 
little more heat should be given during the rooting process. Encourage 
old plants to send out small growths along the old stems by taking out 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE rLANTS. 47 

the tips and keeping the plants perfectly dry for a time. As soon as they 
begin to break, water may be gradually supplied. 

RUELLIA MACRANTHA— For a greenhouse plant for amateurs this is 
one of the best. Its cultivation is very simple. Cuttings rooted in 
September will furnish fair-sized flowering plants by the end of January. 
These may be planted out, end of May, in the open ground; by the end 
of September they will have made considerable growth; and if large 
specimens are wanted they may be lifted and potted. The flowers are 
very large, tubular-shaped, and magenta in color. 

RUSSELIAS— Kusselia juncea is an old plant but too seldom seen; it 
is probably the most useful of all our basket or vase plants. It sends 
out long arching branches of rush-like growths with flowers of an 
intense scarlet. Planted singly in vases there are few things to equal it 
in appearance. To propagate it take a handful of shoots at a time and 
cut them into lengths of from 4 to 6 inches. In this way 200 cuttings 
may be made with two strokes of the knife, and every one will root. It. 
Lemoinei and R. elegantissima are both good. The flowers are smaller 
than those of It. juncea, but more of them are produced. The two latter 
are better Winter flowering plants than It. juncea. 

SARRACENIAS— Natives of the Eastern States. There are six species 
and a large number of hybrids; much prized in Europe owing to their 
curiously-shaped, and in some cases highly-colored leaves. S. Drum- 
mondii, a native of Florida, is the finest of all the kinds, none of the hy- 
brids approaching it in the gorgeous markings of the foliage. Sarrace- 
nias are best grown in a cool, sunny bouse. The potting material 
should be the same as recommended for Nepenthes. 

SALVIA SPLENDENS— When it is desired to raise this fine late Sum- 
mer-blooming plant from cuttings, old plants may be lifted, the flowers 
cut off and the plants set in a cool house. Under these conditions the 
growths made are softer and root very quickly, a single plant giving a 
large number of cuttings. Fall propagating is somtimes done in a 
hurry, owing to the sudden arrival of a cold spell, and this Salvia may 
be lifted and stored in safety without the loss of much time. 

Salvia Splendens " Bonfire " is an improvement on the old kind, being 
of a deeper color and more compact in growth. 

There is a very large number of species, but only a few in general cul- 
tivation. S. leucantha is very late in coming into bloom, making enor- 
mous growth during the Summer. It is well worth growing even for 
the short season of bloom. S. patens is one of the handsomest blue- 
flowered plants in cultivation. Store the roots under a bench and start 
early to get cuttings; or it may be raised from seed. 

SAINTPAULIA IONANTHA is a very pretty dwarf, blue-flowered plant, 
the leaves resembling those of a Gloxinia but smaller. With little trou- 
ble it may be had in bloom at almost any season. The end of March is 
a good time to propagate. Cut off the ripened leaves with about an 
inch of stalk attached and insert in the sand bed, covering only a small 
part of the leaf blade. The eand should not be kept too wet during the 



4S STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

process of rooting. Otherwise, the treatment may be similar to that of 
the Gloxinia. The plants may be flowered all the year round, or given 
a period of rest by partly withholding water. 

SPHCEROQYNE LATIFOLIA— This stove plant bears the distinction of 
being one of the finest foliage plants in cultivation. Together with 
Cyanophyllum magnificum, another noble leaved plant, it belongs to 
the same order as ourcommon Meadow Beauty (Rhexia). Both of these 
plants look as if they would be very difficult to propagate, but, on the 
contrary, they are exceedingly easy subjects, so easy that if the condi- 
tions are all right, there is no excuse for losing a cutting. Mossing the 
tops is a rather slow and unsatisfactory method, and, I think, single 
eye cuttings can be just as rapidly grown into specimens as successfully 
rooted tops. During January the plants are in less active growth than 
at any other period, consequently this is the best season for putting in 
the cuttings. Split the stems, making single eye cuttings; shorten back 
the leaves to within about 2 inches of the leaf stalk, leave about 2y 2 
inches of stem (less than this will root poorly); put firmly in sand of 
warm propagating bed, taking care that the under part of the piece of 
leaf lies flat on the sand; cover with glass. Rooting will be indicated 
by the buds elongating. Pot in thumb pots and keep close for a time. 

STEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA— A great deal of roof space may be suc- 
cessfully utilized in the growing of this plant, the flowers of which can 
be profitably disposed of at all times. The plants may be put out in 
benches in the greenhouse and trained up the rafters, but the bench must 
be one which will not need repairing every now and then. The best 
plan is to have a rather deep box of soil specially prepared. Fibrous 
loam, enriched with manure; some charcoal and crushed bone will keep 
the soil open. It is not necessary to have a high temperature in Winter, 
as most of the growth will be made during the Summer months. Start 
with cuttings, as they flower much more abundantly than plants grown 
from seed. 

STEVIAS— Cuttings are struck in late Spring. Put in 21/^-inch pots; 
from these they are shifted into 4-inch pots. About the beginning of 
August they are transferred into 6-inch pots. To prevent the plants get- 
ting wiry constant pinching should be resorted to. Pot-grown plants 
are preferable to field-grown subjects for late flowering, as the plants in 
pots can be stored in a place from which the frost is just kept out, so as 
to fill space vacated by Chrysanthemums. Field-grown plants may get 
their last pinching during September, and in the benches should be 
planted quite close together. 

STREPTOCARPUS HYBRIDS— These have now attained such a high 
degree of perfection that they should be included in every general collec- 
tion of greenhouse decorative plants. They are better window flower- 
ing plants than is generally supposed, not requiring a very high tempera- 
ture at any time. Seed, to produce flowering plants in the Fall, should 
be sown during March. As the seed is very small, extra care should be 
taken in the sowing and subsequent treatment until the plants are large 
enough. In connection with the germination there is a peculiarity not 



STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 49 

nolueable in other plants. Two tiny seed leaves are produced shortly 
after sowing the seed, and after a while one of these seed leaves dies the 
dtber continuing to elongate. In some of the species, notably one 
name S. Wendlandi, this seed leaf, which at first was about the size of a 
pin head, expands till it gets about 18 inches long and a foot broad. 

STROBILANTHES ANISOPHYLLUS and S. ISOPHYLLUS are very neat 
and useful Winter blooming plants for the warm greenhouse. Flowers 
are light purple. Cuttings should be taken in early Spring. Plant out 
for the Summer, lifting and potting end of September. 

SYNADENIUn GRANTII is a very compact-growing euphorbiaceous 
plant, with bright green foliage, bearing no flowers in a small state; 
and those which come on mature plants do not have much to recom- 
mend them. This is one of the easiest plants to root. By merely stick- 
ing pieces about 8 inches in length in the soil about the end of May, they 
take root quickly, making a good display for the balance of the season. 

STEPHANOPHYSUM (RUELLIA) LONQIFLORUM— For conservatory 
decoration this is a most useful plant during the dull months, small-sized 
subjects being covered with bright red flowers. The ease with which 
flowering plants may be had by the end of the year is remarkable. Cut- 
tings are put in the usual time that soft-wooded bedding plants are 
propagated; they root in a few days, after which they are put in 3-inch 
pots. Three of the plants may then be put in a 6-inch pot, and by keep- 
ing them in a growing temperature they may be had in full flower two 
months after the cuttings are taken. It is not only useful as a Winter 
blooming plant but it comes in well for planting out in Spring, bloom- 
ing satisfactorily during the Summer. 

TINNEA ^THIOPICA— A shrubby greenhouse plant sometimes called 
the Tree Violet, owing to its flowers having the same fragrance as the 
violet. It is propagated from good-sized cuttings of the dormant wood. 

TOXICOPHL/EA SPECTABILIS— A Spring blooming stove shrub. 
Flowers are pure white, borne in dense clusters. Should be treated 
similarly to the Ixoras. 



50 



Bedding Plants. 



ACALYPHAS— There are about eight species and varieties of Acalypha 
grown as bedding plants. With the exception of A. hispida (Sanderi) 
they are ornamental foliage plants, having bronze-colored leaves of 
varying shades. A Godsemana and A. Hamiltoniana are marked with 
creamy white margins. A. Wilkesiana has several variations, the best 
known of which are A. Macafeeana and A. musaica. A. hispida has very 
ornamental pendant spikes of red flowers, produced in the axils of the 
leaves. Cuttings may be taken in the Fall before the cold weather in- 
jures the plants, but to save space the old plants should be lifted, cut 
back, and boxed or potted, starting them into growth in early Spring, 
when they push out from every bud giving abundant material for 
propagating. 

AGERATUM MEXICANUM— This is one of the most tender bedding 
plants, although it does not require much heat during the Winter. Lift 
old plants and keep in a greenhouse; they will give an abundance of 
growths for cuttings during the months of February and March. 

ALTERNANTHERA— The dwarf and slow-growing Alternantheras, 
such as A. brilliantissima and A. paronychioides are unsatisfactory from 
cuttings, unless taken in late Summer and kept growing. When taken 
later they are apt to continue in a weak condition all through the Win- 
ter. But in either case they take up too much room in the greenhouse 
for nearly eight months. A much better method is to lift the old plants 
before the frost blackens them, cut over to within three or four inches 
from the roots; put the cut- over plants as thickly as they will go in 
boxes; give water once and place under the benches of a warm house, 
where they will get some light. About the beginning of March bring 
the boxes up to the light, sprinkle about an inch of sand among the 
plants, and give water. Two weeks later divide the plants and pot 
them, when it will be found the pieces are much superior to plants from 
cuttings and make a better and quicker display in their Summer 
quarters. 

ALYSSUM riARlTIMUM (Koeniga)— The plant known as Sweet Alys- 
sum is one of the last to succumb to cold weather. In this locality it is 
frequently in bloom up to the middle of December. It is used for win- 
dow boxes, vases and baskets. A few plants may be lifted, cut back 
and planted in the front part of a rose or carnation bench, where they 
will furnish abundant material for cuttings in the Spring. 

AnARANTHUS will germinate out-of-doors and make fair-sized plants, 
but to have them at their best the seed should be sown in the beginning 
of March, in a warm house, and near the glass, as the seedlings get very 
weak unless given all the light possible. As soon as large enough they 
are pricked off into boxes, and, when they reach the proper size, potted 
singly into 3-inch pots planting them out from this size, Their value 



BEDDING PLANTS. 51 

lies in the highly colored foliage, no other class of plants surpassing 
them in this respect. In the hottest parts of the country they do not 
last long after attaining their full size, and may he successfully used 
among Canna plants, which have been set out in a semi-dormant state. 

ANNUAL PLANTS are those which germinate, come into flower and 
ripen their seed within a year. Plants of this nature usually die soon 
after ripening their seeds. Familiar examples are as follows: Phlox 
Drummondii, Chinese Aster, Browallia elata and Silene muscipula. But 
these and many other plants known as annuals under favorable circum- 
stances will germinate in the Fall and flower the following Summer. 
In this locality Phlox Drummondii and Silene muscipula germinate freely 
in the Autumn months out-of-doors, and flower the following year; so 
that it will be seen that the term cannot be strictly applied similarly in 
varying latitudes. 

ASCLEPIAS CURUSSAVICA— A greenhouse plant in European gar- 
dens. Seeds sown first half of| February, and the plants put out from 
3-inch pots in May, will grow 5 feet high and 3 feet through, bearing 
myriads of yellow and red flowers. Seeds ripen freely on outdoor plants. 

ASTERS, CHINESE (Callistephus chinensis)— A few years ago Chinese 
Asters started early (about the beginning of February) and flowered in- 
doors proved remunerative; but so easily are they grown that the mar- 
ket soon became overstocked. Their habit of growing to a great height 
in the greenhouse can be guarded against by selecting the varieties, 
planting wide enough apart and giving the maximum amount of light 
and air. They should take the place of exhausted Carnations or Mi- 
gnonette. The outdoor crop need not come in bloom all at the same time; 
the first lot may be safely planted out during the middle of April in 
most places, the seeds being sown in very shallow hotbeds about the 
end of February. 

BANANAS (Husa) — The ordinary fruiting Bananas for sub-tropical 
bedding will do well in almost any part of the country. With a plant 
or two to start with no trouble need be experienced in getting up a 
stock, as they sucker freely from the bases of the old stems. If there is 
difficulty in disposing of them, which is not likely to be the case, as in 
every community there are some people who like things which are un- 
common, then use them for the decoration of the home grounds with 
such plants as Cannas, Eulalias and dark-leaved Ricinus. This combi- 
nation will make a display that will be hard to equal. There are few 
things easier to keep over Winter. On the approach of frost the leaves 
should be shortened back by two-thirds of their length, the plants lifted, 
roots shortened back considerably, and stowed as thickly together as 
they will go in a box and placed in some out of-the-way corner, where 
frost will not get at them. They will pull through the Winter all right, 
in a pretty low temperature. When planting-out time comes they are 
rather uncanny-looking objects for the center of a bed; but they are not 
long in developing a crop of leaves. 

The hardiest species of the genus, and one splendidly adapted to 
our Summers, is known as the Abyssinian Banana, M. Ensete. It does 



52 BEDDING PLANTS. 

not sucker like the ordinary edible fruited varieties, but is easily raised 
from seeds. Sow them the latter part of January in the sand bed of a 
warm propagating house, and pot off the seedlings when they have de- 
veloped three or four leaves. They may be potted earlier if kept in bot- 
tom heat. In one season they will, under favorable conditions, grow 6 
feet high, and if lifted, kept over Winter and planted the second season, 
they will develop into very large specimens. They delight in rich soil. 

M. superba— A species somewhat resembling M. Ensete, is of a slower 
growth. The foliage is slightly covered with a farinaceous looking 
substance. In Winter the leaves die down, the bases of which form a 
resting bulb-like formation. It should be started into growth before 
planting out. These plants are raised from seed. 

BALSAHS (Impatiens Balsamina)— Many florists depend to a great 
extent upon the white camellia-flowered Balsams for supplying mate- 
rial for designs during Summer. Although there are other things more 
satisfactory the Balsam will continue to be used, as it can be depended 
upon to grow with a minimum amount of care. The crop is sometimes 
disappointing, owing to a large percentage of the seedlings bearing 
semi-double flowers. Those plants with very double flowers do not set 
seed very freely, of course, and the temptation is evidently great, in 
gathering a seed crop, to collect the capsules from the very abundant 
crops on the single-flowered plants to tha exclusion of those on the 
doubles and semi-doubles. A few plants of the best types carefully lifted 
from the field during dull weather and put indoors, will seed more fceely 
than when left at the mercy of wind and rain, or panes of glass may be 
fixed over extra choice plants in the field. For each plant get two pieces 
of wood, making a cut of about an inch deep with a wide-set saw near 
the top; have the sticks driven into the ground on opposite sides of the 
plant, with the cuts facing each other; into these cuts slide the panes. 
This looks like a lot of trouble, but it is better to do it than to be with- 
out the flowers. For late crops the seeds may be sown out-of-doors and 
transplanted. To have them in bloom early sow in shallow hotbeds 
and transplant about the middle of May, earlier or later, according to 
locality. 

The Zanzibar Balsam, Impatiens Sultanii, makes a very showy bor- 
der plant, and needs very little care after being planted out. Sow the 
seeds in heat about the 1st of March; keep growing to prevent flower- 
ing in a young state. 

BEGONIAS— Seeds of the bedding varieties should be sown by the be- 
ginning of January, to have the plants in good shape for Spring sales. 
Cuttings are often used, but they do not make anything like as good 
plants as those from seed. The seed should be sown in boxes or pans. 
Sterilize the soil used on the surface, firm well, water, then sow thinly 
without covering the seed, or with only a very small quantity of fine 
sand, covering the box or pan with a pane of glass until the seeds vege- 
tate. Some of the varieties used for bedding, and which do grandly in 
most localities, are Bruantii, Erfordise, Vernon, Vulcan and Zulu King. 
Out-of-doors all of them will ripen seed by September. Seed of some of 



BEDDING PLANTS. 53 

each should be saved, keeping it until wanted for sowing, without 
bursting the seed vessels. 

Begonia corallina is undoubtedly the best of all the shrubby Bego- 
nias for outdoor use. The larger the specimens when put out the finer 
the display. Small plants in 3-inch pots must necessarily make fresh 
growths from the root, in order to attain one or two feet in height, and 
in doing this the best part of the Summer is spent; but large, healthy 
specimens will break freely into growth from the old wood and produce 
myriads of bright red flowers. An abundant supply of propagating 
material can be secured from out-door plants just before freezing 
weather. Old plants will hibernate in boxes under the bench of a mod- 
erately warm house. 

BELXIS PERENNIS— The best kinds of double daisies are perpetuated 
by divjding the plants after blooming, but in many parts of the country 
these plants do not survive hot weather. Seeds should be sown during 
September, and the plants Wintered in a frame. 

BROWALLIA ELATA — A blue-flowered 'annual species, may be sown 
where it is to bloom. In this locality the numerous varieties are hardy 
annuals. 

B. speciosa may either be raised from cuttings or seeds. When 
grown cool both are good Winter blooming plants for the conservatory. 

CANNAS— The' first lot of rhizomes intended for bedding purposes 
should be started during the 'first part of February. These should be 
the finest kinds and those which it is desired to increase, because even 
the smallest pieces having one dormant point, started early, will make 
plants large enough to occupy 5-inch pots by the time for planting out. 
Leave as much of the rhizome to each point as possible, as it will send 
out new growths from the dormant buds between the scales. In the 
formation of the rhizomes scales are first formed entirely encircling the 
rhizome, which, as it reaches the light, gradually elongate until true 
leaves are formed. The main crop may be gone over during the first 
half of March. Cut up the rhizomes into pieces small enough, so that 
when the time comes for potting, each piece will fill a 5-inch pot. Before 
potting they should be put in material which will encourage the forma- 
tion of roots, and the best for this purpose is sphagnum, sand and rotted 
cow manure in equal parts. When the rhizomes are potted without 
roots they always turn out unsatisfactory. Some start immediately 
but the majority remain dormant, and take up valuable space for too 
long a time. Use boxes to start the rhizomes; place a couple of inches 
of the material in the bottom, put the pieces on this and cover with at 
least one inch of the rooting medium. Water only sparingly at first; as 
the growths push up give full exposure to the light. 

Varieties— It is only a very few years since the principal feature of 
the Canna was its foliage, the blooms being small and comparatively 
insignificant. Within the last decade the development of the flower has 
been very marked. The beginning was made in Europe, and from the 
first of the improved forms numerous fine varieties have been raised in 
America, so that now anyone can take a few good flowered sorts, pol- 



54 BEDDING PLANTS. 

linate the flowers, and among the resulting progeny will be found some 
as good, if not better, than the parents. A new race has recently sprung 
up known as the orchid-flowered Cannas; these have been secured by 
crossing the Crozy section with the large yellow flowered C. flaccida. 
The flowers are very large and showy, but the direct cross between the 
two is not very suitable as a bedder, owing to the soft nature of the 
segments. There are at present indications of the orchid-flowered section 
being considerably improved in the substance of the flower, so that in a 
few years they will be more largely grown. 

Varieties with Ornamental Foliage— Some of the varieties are grown 
for the foliage alone; these are either slightly variegated or with the 
leaves dark red. Black Beauty has for several years been by far the 
best of this class, and likely to remain so. It should never be planted 
out in a dormant state. 

Raising from Seed— The seed covering is very hard and resists the in- 
fluence of heat and moisture for a long time under ordinary conditions. 
Germination may be hastened by soaking the seeds in warm water, and 
also by removing a very small piece of the seed covering. In any case 
sow early and in a bottom heat of from 75 to 80 degrees. 

Storing— Cannas should be lifted from their Summer quarters just as 
soon as the foliage is blackened by the first frosts. Before this occurs 
they should be gone over and labeled correctly, noting the color, size 
and comparative value of seedlings. Use hanging labels, tying them on 
firmly as near the ground as possible. Cut off the flowering stem about 
6 inches from the ground. Put the kinds together. If there be green- 
house accommodation a position under the benches, where they won't 
get much drip, will suit them exactly. If greenhouse accommodation is 
not available they should be closely packed together in boxes, using dry 
sand, and stowed away where frost will not affect the rhizomes. 

CH^NOSTOMA HISPIDA— This charming dwarf shrub is not so well 
known among florists as its merits deserve. It is useful in a number 
of ways, but principally as a plant for filling boxes or baskets. For 
rock work, cemeteries or even as a bedding plant it is prettier than a 
number of the things commonly used for such purposes. It has a pro- 
cumbent or decumbent habit, according to the position in which it finds 
itself, and has the great merit of being continually decked with a host 
of neat little pinkish white star-shaped flowers. It is remarkably quick 
in making a bushy growth from the seedling or cutting stage. For 
propagation lift old plants in the Fall; keep in the greenhouse and take 
cuttings from the young growths early in the Spring. 

CINERARIA MARITIMA and C. CANDIDISSIflA are much used on 
account of their foliage, which is densely covered with very fine white 
hairs, so much so that the leaves have a whitish appearance. The most 
reliable method of propagation is from seed, which should be sown in 
Autumn. Cuttings may also be taken, avoiding those which are very 
robust. Give them treatment similar to that recommended for Gazanias. 

CODI/EUM (Croton)— It is only within recent years that these plants 
have been used to any extent in the open ground. They succeed well, 



BEDDING PLANTS. 55 

putting on colors much superior to what we usually see indoors. Some 
of the higher colored varieties are unsuited for this work, as they need a 
high temperature at night as well as during the day. The following are 
the kinds which I have found reliable: C. Lady Zetland, C. pictum, C. 
aucubsefolium, C. chrysophyllum (one of the most satisfactory), C. 
multicolor, C. interruptum, C. Veitchii and C. Weismanni. As these may 
be grown successfully from 10 to 15 degrees cooler than C. Reidi, C. 
Challenger and others of that section, they should be given a trial even 
in the Northern States. The principal batch of cuttings for bedding 
plants is taken beginning of September. If there is no bottom heat by 
that time they will root splendidly in a close propagating frame. With 
bottom heat they root in the open bed, and the cuttings may be quite 
large. Allow quite a quantity of roots to form before potting. A mini- 
mum temperature of 60 degrees will be found sufficient during Winter 
for the above varieties. Before putting them in the ground they must 
be very gradually hardened off otherwise they are apt to lose the lower 
leaves. Old plants should be given a top-dressing of bone meal and 
plunged out, to furnish cuttings. 

COLEUS— Owing to the easy way in which young plants are got up 
their rapid growth and very ornamental foliage, when planted out, the 
very numerous ;kinds will continue to be popular bedding plants. In 
Winter young plants should not be subjected to a lower temperature 
than 55 degrees. . From a few plants grown from cuttings, put in dur- 
ing the beginning of September, a large quantity of young plants may 
be raised in Spring. In this latitude we have little use for hotbeds. In 
other localities, where the nights are colder during April and the first 
half of May, the hotbed is an indispensable adjunct to the greenhouse 
for developing plants such as Coleus from late rooted cuttings. 

COSMOS B1PINNATUS— To have the plants complete their growth 
sarly the seed should be sown indoors, or on a hotbed by the middle of 
March. Give the seedlings enough light to avoid weak growth. Plant 
out in rather sandy soil, and not too heavily manured. C. sulphureus 
has yellow flowers; late blooming plants of it may be lifted and put in 
large pots, or planted out in a bench where there is abundant head 
room. When grown on stiff soil the plants lift easily. Some of the 
more robust shoots may be removed, owing to the loss of some of the 
roots in removing. In this way they will give a large quantity of bloom 
up till the middle of December. 

Supports for the Plants— We frequently see a very promising crop of 
Cosmos laid flat on the ground by a moderate wind storm, which not 
only breaks half, or more, of the branches, but the flowers on those 
which are left are at least a week later than usual in making their 
appearance and have crooked stems into the bargain. Drive in a fence 
post at each end of the row, stout in proportion to the length of row, 
with smaller posts at intervals between; knock in some small wire 
staples at convenient heights iu the post; let one man unwind wire or 
strong string at one end of the row, and another take the end of the 
wire or string and put through the staples, securing firmly to the strong 
posts at each end. Two or three stretches to each row will suffice, and 



56 BEDDING PLANTS. 

if tied afterward with string will help to secure the plants in an upright 
position against storms. 

COTYLEDON (Echeveria)— Frequently used for carpet bedding. 
Some of the best for this purpose are C. atropurpurea, C. californica, G. 
clavifolia, C. fascicularis, C. gibbiflora var. metallica, C. secunda var. 
glauca,C.imbricata, C. Pachyphytum, C. mirabilis, C. globosa var. exten- 
sa, and C. eximia. The narrow-leaved kinds are raised in quantity from 
leaves; others from seed, offsets and from cuttings. November and De- 
cember are the best months for propagation. Pull the leaves from the 
plants, taking care during the operation that the bud in the axil of the 
leaf is preserved. Make a depression, say 2 inches deep and 4 or 5 inches 
wide, across the sand bed of a warm house; lay two rows of leaves in 
this with their bases touching ; keep dry until the little growths start. 
When large enough they should be pricked off close together in boxes. 
Old plants should be lifted in Autumn and placed as thickly as they will 
go in boxes, without adding much soil and keeping them without water 
in a cool-bouse. 

CUPHEA PLATYCENTRA and C. LLAV^B— A few plants Wintered 
over in a moderately warm house will give cuttings in March. C. Llava? 
has large and handsome flowers, but they are not freely produced until 
the plants have made considerable growth. 

DAHLIAS— The Dahlia delights in a cool and humid atmosphere, but 
immediately the mercury gets anywhere near the freezing point that is 
the end of the plant's usefulness for the season. Old plants are cut back 
to within 6 inches of the soil, dug up, and the soil removed from the 
fleshy tuber-like roots; they are then stored for the Winter in a dry and 
frost-proof structure. 

Propagation— Although the kinds are perpetuated by division, graft- 
ing and cuttings, the latter method is the one best suited for raising 
large quantities of young plants. The roots are brought into heat 
about the 1st of March, covered over with some light soil, and encour- 
aged to make growth by frequent syringing. As soon as the shoots are 
• 3 or 4 inches long, separate from the parent, taking them with a heel. 
They can then either be put singly in small pots and kept close and 
warm until rooted," or put in an ordinary propagating bed with a bot- 
tom heat of 75 degrees. The sand need not be kept very moist, but the 
atmosphere should contain enough moisture to prevent wilting. As 
soon as weather permits the plants should be put out in a frame to 
harden. 

Varieties— The large and perfectly symmetrical flowers are rather 
stiff and artificial looking for cutting purposes. The cactus-flowered 
section do not have this fault; nearly all of them are well worth grow- 
ing. The Pompons, especially those with white flowers, can be utilized 
for various purposes. The single-flowered varieties can all be used for 
cutting; this section seeds freely, and some of the strains offered by 
European seedsmen come remarkably true, but good kinds should be 
perpetuated from cuttings. 



BEDDING PLANTS. 57 

Soil — This should be very rich and light, and if the plants are put in 
positions where it is inconvenient to water them during dry weather 
they should get a mulching of half-decayed stable bedding. 

ERYTHRINA— The varieties of E. Crista-Galli are seldom without 
flowers during the hottest months when planted out. During Winter 
they should be kept dry, under a bench, and may even be put out in that 
state, although quicker results may be had by starting them into 
growth before planting. They are best propagated by giving the old 
plants heat and moisture, to produce growths about the 1st of March. 
When a few inches long take off with a heel, pot in sandy soil and stand 
them in a warm propagating frame. 

FICUS ELASTICA may be associated with such plants as Variegated 
Screw Pines, Crotons, Variegated Panax and Dracaena Sanderiana in 
the formation of tropical groups of plants. They make very rapid prog- 
ress when plunged in 5-inch pots shortly after being potted from 3-inch 
pots. All of these may be arranged where the full sun will strike them. 
The Ficus must be examined from time to time, to prevent the roots 
from establishing themselves outside of the pots. 

GAZANIAS— Decumbent composite plants from South Africa, of a 
somewhat succulent growth, and succeeding well in partially shaded 
positions. In the Northern States they thrive in full sun. The flowers 
are large, deep orange. Owing to the succulent character of the plants 
the cuttings are liable to decay when placed in wet sand. Put them in 
boxes, using sandy loam. Make the soil quite firm; give one good 
watering, then put in the cuttings and keep in a cold but close frame 
until rooted. This may be done about the end of September; on the 
approach of severe weather bring the boxes into a cool greenhouse and 
pot off in early Spring. 

GERANIUn— See Pelargonium. 

HELIOTROPE ( Heliotropium peravianum)— Grown principally on ac- 
count of the sweet-scented flowers. There are dark and light lilac varie- 
ties, also a few with whitish flowers. A few years ago a very large-flowered 
kind was sent out, but it had no perfume, and its first season was its last. 
The kinds will succeed best in full sun. Old plants should be wintered, 
planted out on a bench. A minimum temperature of 40 degrees will suit. 
From these plants abundant material for propagation may be had in 
early Spring. 

HUNNEMANNIA FUMARI^EFOLIA, for late Summer and Fall cutting, 
beats all other members of the Poppy family. Seeds of the earliest 
flowers will have ripened by the end of September. They should be 
gathered and laid away in a cool, dry place for sowing in early Spring, 
taking care not to burst the seed vessfls. The only difficulty attending 
the cultivation of this Poppy is in the seedling stage. The young plants 
are difficult to transfer from the sped pan to small pots, but this can be 
avoided if the seeds are sown in small pots, with the soil firmly pressed 
before sowing and shifted on as the plants require it. The flowers resem- 
ble those of some of the Eschscholtzias, to which genus it is closely 
allied; but there is much more substance to the flowers of the Hunne- 



58 BEDDING PLANTS. 

mannia and also to the flower stems. They can be cut and kept in 
excellent condition for several days. It thrives well in sandy soil, and 
needs but little attention in the way of watering after planting out. It 
sometimes stands the Winters in the District of Columbia, but oftener it 
gets killed outright. 

ISOTOriA LONGIFLORA— This plant is figured in Curtis' Botanical 
Magazine under the name of Lobelia longiflora. It beloDgs to the order 
Campanulacese. In Europe it is grown as a greenhouse subject. In 
America it is one of our most showy white flowering biennials for the 
open border. The plants before coming in bloom are anything but 
attractive, as they closely resemble some of our common coarse-grow- 
ing weeds. The flowers, on large plants, are anything but sparingly 
produced; they are pure white, an inch or so across the petals. Sow 
the seed in a cool greenhouse in the Autumn, or in a warm house early in 
Spring. Each plant will ripen an immense quantity of seed. 

IRESINE (Achyranthes)— As a bedding plant, treat much the same 
as Coleus. They will stand a lower temperature. Cuttings put in dur- 
ing September can be used as stock plants in the Spring. 

LANTANA— Low-growing greenhouse shrubs with yellow, white, red 
and purple flowers in small, close heads. They are perfectly at home in 
the open border, growing most luxuriantly in heavy, well-manured soil. 
The leaves and flowers have an undesirable odor, which is against their 
ever becoming very popular. Take cuttings early, and from plants thus 
raised they may be further propagated during February. A minimum 
temperature of 50 degrees will suit all of the kinds. 

LOBELIA ERINUS— A very popular bedding plant in Europe, but 
short-lived here, owing principally to the high temperature during mid- 
summer. A few old plants kept on a bench along with such things as 
Heliotrope and Ageratum will give] fine cuttings, which are rooted be- 
ginning of March and transferred to a hotbed, to make growth. 

MESEMBRYANTHEriUM— The pretty little variegated Ice plant, 
known under the name of Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum, 
has a habit of damping off in the propagating bed when treated like the 
majority of bedding plants. A way to circumvent this is to prepare 
shallow boxes of sand t ana leaf-soil. Give one good watering previous 
to putting in the cutting. Let the "oxes stand for a few hours, put in 
the cuttings quite close together and stand them on a bench over the 
heating pipes. Give no more water till rooted; that is, if the soil does 
not become too dry; in this case the cuttings should not be watered with 
a rose. This variety is one of the prettiest of dwarf bedding plants, and 
should be more commonly grown. M. crystallium, M. tricolor, with 
pink and white flowers, and M. amcena, the latter an evergreen species, 
are all used for outdoor planting. <The annual kinds should be sown 
indoors beginning of March. Cuttings of the perennial kinds should be 
rooted in Autumn. 

MIGNONETTE, (Reseda)— For pot culture sow beginning of Septem- 
ber in 3-inch pots; leave three of the strongest seedlings in each pot, and 
long before the plants are pot-bound shift into 5-inch pots. Keep in the 



BEDDING PLANTS. 59 

coolest house, where* they can be given abundant ventilation and full 
sun at all times. About two quarts of soot to a barrel of water makes 
a good liquid manure. For bloomiug out-of-doors sow thinly as soon 
as weather permits. 

For early flowering seed may be sown during the first half of August. 
The method of sowing the seed on the benches is the one there is the 
least difliculty with, and that calling for the least amount of intelli- 
gent care, as a number of seeds can be sown at each station where they 
are intended to flower, and the strongest plants left. This system is 
not always convenient, however. Other methods consist of sowing in 
pots and planting from them, or in boxes or pans, and pricked out from 
these into small pots, shifting if necessary, and planting out when the 
proper time arrives. Mignonette seedlings, when they get beyond a 
certain size, are exceedingly diflicult to prick off successfully; but when 
taken as soon as they can be handled there is little danger of failure if 
ordinary precautions are taken against damping off, suffering from too 
much or too little water, or from the direct rays of the sun until the 
seedlings are established. Mignonette likes cool treatment, so that 
attempts to coddle it by giving a high, close atmosphere will not pro- 
duce flowers worth the cutting, if they ever reach the flowering stage. 
The soil to grow it in should be well enriched with cow manure, and 
well firmed before either sowing or planting. There are several kinds 
on the market to select from; but there is not so much in the variety as 
in the way it is grown. 

MIMULUS MOSCHATUS— An old-fashioned plant with a musky odor. 
It will keep in a frame during the Winter, and may be brought indoors 
early in the season, divided into small pieces and potted. It grows best 
in a shaded cool house, or it may be planted out in a moist shady spot. 

niRABILIS JALAP A— This species (the Marvel of Peru or Four 
o'Clock) has tuberous roots, and in Winter may be stored in the same 
way as the roots of the Dahlia, or raised annually from seeds sown in- 
doors. The flowers are very showy, of various colors, principally yel- 
low, crimson, red and white. 

NIEREnBERGIA FRUTESCENS and N. GRACILIS— Seeds of these 
should be sown in September and plants wintered in a frame. The fol- 
lowing Summer they will make much better subjects than from Spring- 
sown seed. They are principally used in large vases, but they make 
exceedingly showy plants for the rock garden and border. 

NIGELLA DAITASCENA— As soon as the weather permits seeds may 
be sown rather thinly where the plants are intended to bloom in the 
open border. 

OXALIS— For outdoor blooming during September and October 
knock out a few plants from their flowering pots and start some of the 
largest bulbs about the middle of July in 3-inch pots. Use light soil. 
Some of the plants will be in flower inside of a month. They can be used 
as bedders, to take the places of plants which die off as the result of 
warm weather; for instance, Ten-Week Stocks, Lobelias and Pansies. 
Oxalis Bowiei, O. hirta, O. rosacea, and one which goes under the name 



60 BEDDING PLANTS. 

of 0. crydentelles, are all very suitable for this kind of work. Plants 
which were in bloom during the Winter and Spring may be started for 
this purpose after a few weeks rest. 

PANDANUS— For bedding purposes the^ best plant in this genus is 
P. Veitchii. It will thrive in almost any position, but it makes better 
leaves in full sun than it does in shade. As young plants increase in 
value up. to a certain size, they should be put out in their pots, and once 
or twice during Summer should be examined at the roots and larger 
pots given if necessary. The roots are large and soft, and when they 
grow over the sides of the plunged pot and into the surrounding soil 
they are difficult to manage afterward. 

PANSIES (Viola)— To have pansy plants ready to put out in the Fall 
the seed should be sown about the middle of August, and even earlier, 
where the weather will permit. In the very warm weather the princi- 
pal danger is in the damping of the seedling plants shortly after they have 
germinated. Sow thinly and cover lightly with screened moss, or old 
manure, giving only enough water to keep the surface slightly moist. 
In the warmer parts of the country it will require good judgment in 
selecting a suitable place for the seed boxes during germination. One 
can be secured by raising some shaded sash above them, in a place 
where the air is not apt to get stagnant. As soon as the seedlings are 
large enough to handle, they should be pricked out in boxes of moder- 
ately moist soil, and for some time only given gentle sprinklings through 
a fine rose to prevent wilting. They are put in their Winter quarters by 
the beginning of October and given a mulching of rotted manure shortly 
afterward. In this way they can be grown in the same beds with low 
growing bulbous plants, such as Crocus, Galanthus or Scillas, these 
bulbs going out of flower just as the Pansies are coming in, securing a 
season of bloom from the time when the snow disappears until very 
warm weather, or, in Northern latitudes, all Summer long. In some 
parts the plants make sufficient progress before the advent of cool 
weather, not only to bloom, but to send up numerous shoots from the 
base of the plant. This is a good opportunity to select cuttings of the 
finest forms to raise seed from. Take those cuttings having a small 
piece of solid stem; put in sand, treating them as cool as possible. As 
soon as rooted place in boxes of light soil and Winter in frames, plant- 
ing out as soon as weather will permit. It should be borne in mind 
that plants put out in the Fall always give the best results in Spring. 

Pansies to Flower in Frames— If sown early enough and potted off 
the seedlings will show the colors before planting and thus enable the 
grower to select those which are best for selling. These should be 
planted in a* frame facing south so that they will catch all of the sun- 
shine available during the Winter months. If pinched back frequently it 
will induce the plants to make bushy growth before freezing weather; 
then mulch with leaf soil or old manure, giving air whenever the weather 
will allow of it. They will throw up an amazing quantity of bloom 
early in the season, which will pay to cut with the foliage attached so 
that good long stems can be secured. Pansy seed should be sown in 
very shallow boxes. The plants delight in a low temperature and a 



BEDDING PLANTS. 61 

soil which is open enough to enable the small succulent roots to ramify 
freely through it. It is not necessary to have the soil largely of vegetable 
humus; one that answers well may be made up as follows: Screen 
some soil through a No. 8 sieve; the rough material which does not go 
through the meshes put through a No. 3 sieve. This, mixed with leaf 
soil, to one-third of its bulk, will insure a good germination. The idea 
is to keep the roots in a healthy growing, state with abundance of air 
around the seed leaves to prevent damping off. Pansies do better out- 
side during Winter than most people suppose. Planted early with a 
little mulching, and if the weather gets very severe, some old stable 
bedding thrown over them, will give all the protection necessary. For 
plants for Spring sales the seed may be sown late and Wintered in cold 
frames, or it may be sown early in the Spring; but the most satisfactory 
plants are obtained from early sowing. 

Tufted Pansies— These are what the Scotch florists up to within a few 
years ago used to call bedding Violas; but as Pansies, tufted Pansies 
and Violets are all members of the genus Viola, the use of the generic 
name for any one section of the genus has generally been discarded. 
The tufted varieties are hybrids from V. cornuta, V. lutea and V. trico- 
lor. They spread at the root much more than the ordinary Pansies do, 
making a great mass of flowers, especially in cool climates, for the 
greater part of the Summer. After Pansies having become so popular 
in this country I am afraid the tufted Pansy would have a struggle for 
existence in the estimation of the ordinary flower lover. Although in 
the tufted Pansies there .is a greater diversity of color, more graceful 
flowers, and the plants are very floriferous, the flowers are much smaller 
than in the ordinary k Pansy, and it is a question if they would become 
popular. 

PELARdONIUn-(This genus includes the bedding Geranium). Cut- 
tings are rooted during the end of September or first half of October, 
according to locality. Plants that are well developed without being 
"drawn" are best for supplying wood. The usual method is to put 
each cutting in a thumb pot and stand these close together for the time 
being in a frame or cool house. Leaf mould, sand and loam in equal 
parts will answer as a soil. Give one watering, enough to moisten the 
soil; subsequent waterings will be necessary only when it gets dry. 
Take the cutting immediately under a joint and shorten back the large 
leaf blades one half. By the end of the year they should be shifted into 
3-inch pots, using stronger soil, and a month or six weeks later the 
plants will give a batch of cuttings which may be potted like the first 
lot. A hot, stagnant atmosphere must be avoided at all times. A sav- 
ing of time and space may be accomplished, together with providing 
equally fine plants, if the old method of propagation be adhered to. 
This consists in putting the cuttings, made with the leaf blades short- 
ened somewhat, into boxes pretty thickly together, standing the boxes 
outside, partly shaded from the sun until they root. Little water is 
given during the operation, and heavy rains are to be guarded against 
by having sash ready to cover the plants. The soil used should be such 
as to enable the rooted cuttings to thrive in it until January when they 



62 BEDDING PLANTS. 

are potted up. If kept on the dry side they will bear considerable cold, 
and will be prevented from making a too rapid growth. By this 
method there should be no necessity for putting in a second batch of 
cuttings from the tops of the first lot. Give this method a trial on a 
small scale, until familiar with its working. 

Ivy=leaved Section— The stems of these are not so succulent as those 
of the Zonales, and should be rooted in the sand bed. Old plants potted 
up after being cut back will give abundant material for propagation. 

Fancy Pelargoniums are of no service for bedding, as they have only 
a short flowering period. In this latitude they are never seen at their 
best, and it hardly pays to grow them. In the Northern States they do 
better. Cuttings should be put in early, and kept in a growing condi- 
tion from the start. Large plants are secured by reducing the balls of 
one or two-year old plants and repotting. . 

PENT AS CARNEA— More familiar as a stove plant than for bedding 
purposes. In the warmer parts of the country, however, it will give 
three months of rather showy bloom. Treat the cuttings similarly to 
those of Lantana. 

PERISTROPHE ANGUSTIFOLIA— A rather loose growing, but dwarf 
and finely variegated plant, useful for vases and baskets. Propagate 
in Spring from lifted plants. 

PETUNIAS— It is always advisable to sow the best strains of tha 
double Petunia seed, as the majority of the seedlings will furnish all the 
single flowered plants necessary for ordinary use. The doubles can 
easily be picked out from the singles before the flowering period. They 
are known by their stocky appearance, the singles having a decidedly 
"annual" look shortly after the seedling stage has been passed. In 
order to prevent washing of the soil after the seed is sown, use boxes, 
say 3 inches deep; put a shallow layer of sphagnum in the bottom, 
make the soil firm, give a watering sufficient to wet the soil through; 
then when the surface will admit of the operation roughen it with the 
ends of the fingers. Sow the, seed thinly and smooth the surface with 
the end of a cigar box without covering with soil. A pane of glass or a 
piece of damp cloth placed over the box will prevent a too rapid evap- 
oration of the moisture till the seeds have germinated. They may be 
sown during the first part of February. 

PHLOX DRUMnONDII— The numerous varieties of this popular flower 
should be sown by the middle of February. The single whites and reds 
are most in demand. In sowing cover the seeds with sphagnum rubbed 
through a No. 4 sieve. In a moderate temperature they will germinate 
inside of a week. After the seedlings are large enough they should be 
pricked off into boxes from which they should be transferred to pots 
later in the season. When put in pots during the seedling stage they are 
apt to throw up flowering stems, and become hard before sufficient 
growth has been formed. For late flowering plants a batch of seed may 
be sown beginning of May; these will be of most service if white varie- 
ties are selected. 



BEDDING PLANTS. 63 

PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS is usually treated as a greenhouse plant. It 
blooms after midsummer on the current year's growth. Our warm 
Summers are very favorable to its growth out-of-doors, and it certainly 
ought to be largely grown for this purpose, as there is no other plant 
which can supply the color (light blue) so abundantly. Plants from 
Fall struck cuttings will be large enough by planting out time to fill 4- 
inch pots, and they ought to be planted out from this size for early 
blooming, as younger plants are too apt to make growth instead of 
flower. The best flowering plants are those which have been Wintered 
over in a dormant state, the larger the better; by midsummer they are 
a solid mass of bloom. There is a white flowered form which goes well 
with the blue one, but this should not be confounded with P. zeylanica 
—a worthless species. 

RICINUS (Castor Bean)— This grows, according to variety, from 5 to 
15 feet in height. R. zanzibarensis, a green-leaved form, continues 
growing all Summer and does not even ripen its seeds in this locality. 
R. Gibsoni has blood-red foliage. The seeds should be sown beginning 
of April in small pots, as they form a large mass of roots quickly after 
germinating. 

SALVIA SPLENDENS, the scarlet Sage, is the most used of this exten- 
sive genus for bedding purposes. Young plants are raised early in 
Spring from cuttings taken from lifted and headed back plants. S. 
marmorata, S. Im. Bedman, S. alba and S. Mrs. Stevens are all well- 
known kinds. 

SANCHEZIA NOBILIS puts on a very rampant growth when placed 
out-of-doors in rich soil. Although a bed of Cannas may look best by 
themselves, a border is often wanted of some other plant; this species 
will answer well for such a purpose. Good-sized cuttings root very 
freely. They may be Wintered in 3-inch pots in a moderately warm 
house. 

SANTOLINA INCANA— Although a perfectly hardy, dwarf shrub, it is 
frequently used for Summer effects in carpet bedding. It can be rooted 
any time before frost, in boxes of sand kept in a cool, close frame, or 
from old plants wintered in a frame. Cuttings may be secured in Spring. 

SWAINSONA — Not only is this plant useful for Winter blooming, but 
early struck cuttings grown in well-drained soil will flower well in Sum- 
mer. Old cut back plants which have flowered during the previous 
Winter will also supply an abundance of bloom when planted out. 

STROBILANTHES DYERIANUS— This species, especially in a young 
state, has foliage suggestive of some of the highly -colored Bertolonias. 
Its treatment should be similar to that afforded the Coleus, so far as 
Wintering and propagating are concerned. When planted out in the full 
sun, the leaves are apt to have a washed-out appearance, especially on 
old plants. A situation having partial shade is best. 

TAGETES— Some of the Mexican species are useful for late blooming. 
In the open border they are among the last plants in flower. The im- 



64 BEDDING PLANTS. 

proved kinds may be sown in a gentle hotbed and transplanted to where 
they are to bloom. 

VERBENAS— The varieties of these used to be kept true to name, the 
plants lifted in the Fall and cuttings taken in early Spring. Seeds can 
now be depended upon to furnish the finest flowering plants. They 
should be sown in February and the seedlings potted as soon as large 
enough. Pinching should be done early to make the plants branch and 
have them in bloom by planting-out time. 

V. venosa, an herbaceous species, with heads of purple flowers, is 
hardy in the Middle States. It may be raised from seed sown at the 
same period as the garden varieties, or from division of the roots in the 
early part of April. 

TORENIA FOURNIERI is none too common yet as a half-hardy annual. 
Although it will germinate outside it takes too long a time in blooming. 
Owing to the color of the flowers (different shades of violet) it is desira- 
ble, as bedding plants of that color are not plentiful. Sow indoors mid- 
dle' of March and allow the seedlings to gain a considerable headway 
before potting. T. asiatica and T. Bailloni are well suited for basket or 
vase work, as they are of a procumbent habit. T. Fournieri is of erect 
growth. 

TROP/EOLUM ( Indian Cress ) — With the exception of the double-flowered 
forms, which are perpetuated by cuttings, those varieties commonly 
grown are raised annually from seeds. The seed must not be sown too 
early, because they make rapid progress, and are apt to produce spin- 
dling growth in small pots. T. majus and dwarf forms and T. Lobbi- 
anum are well known and useful as climbers, or for planting in beds. 
All of them are quite tender, and should be put out rather late. 

V1NCA ROSEA— The Madagascar Periwinkle should be sown about 
the beginning of January, to have fair-sized plants by the beginning of 
May. Sow the seed thinly, and when large enough prick off into boxes. 
From these the seedlings may be shifted into 3-inch pots, from which 
they are transferred to the open ground. There are three kinds which 
come true from seed, one with rose-colored flowers, one pure white, and 
the third has white flowers with pink center. They are among the most 
satisfactory of bedding plants. 

ZINNIAS— Very gaudy flowering annuals of the Daisy family. The 
tall-growing kinds have given way to the dwarf and much more showy 
varieties. Sow seed about the end of March and prick off into boxes of 
rather rich soil. Harden them off in a frame before planting out. 



65 



Vase and Basket Plants* 

When vases have to be filled with only one kind of plant, hardly 
anything will be found more appropriate than the Russelias. The 
branches are erect in a young state, eventually becoming drooping. If 
the plants are put in a light, rich soil, with abundance of water 
during the growing period, they will be in bloom most of the time. 
Only one-year-old plants should be used for large vases; that is, 
plants in 6 or 7-inch pots, as when of that size they soon become fur- 
nished with good-sized branches. The old and well-known Russelia 
junceais the best for the purpose, although R. sarmentosa andR. Lemoinei 
are both good, giving a greater number of flowers, which, however, are 
smaller|thaD those of R. juncea. Among those plants needed for the center 
of vases, Pandanus Veitchii and the numerous varieties of the grassy- 
leaved species of Cordyline, such as C. australis and C. indivisa, are 
among the best. Last year's seedlings of the Cordy lines, if they have 
been liberally treated, will be large enough by the beginning of the sea- 
son for all ordinary purposes. They stand the hot sun well. Pandanus 
Veitchii colors well under full sunshine, but needs more water tkan the 
Cordy lines. P. Baptistii, of which much was expected as an outdoor 
Summer plant, is rather disappointing, as its foliage is too tender for 
exposed places. Other good things for vases and baskets, in the shape 
of flowering and trailing plants, are the three species of Torenia, two 
purple and one yellow, besides the so-called white variety, and Mau- 
randya Barclayana, all of which may be got under way from seed in a 
short time; Mesembryanthemum cordifolium, Germany Ivy; all the 
trailing Vincas and Abutilon vexillarium are indispensable. The varie- 
gated ground Ivy will stand the sun well in exposed situations; it is 
dwarf growing and comes in handy for planting around the edges of 
vases and baskets, where its long hanging growths can be seen to 
advantage. Stock of it, kept in boxes under the cover of sash, should 
be cut up during the early Spring, and small pieces with roots attached 
placed in sandy soil in boxes, and either returned to the frame or 
brought into a cool house, to be started into growth previous to 
potting. 

Saxifraga sarmentosa ("Aaron's Beard") is a very hardy species with 
ornamental flowers and foliage. It thrives out-of-doors all the year 
round in positions partly shaded from the sun. By the first of March 
fair-sized plants may be put in 3-inch pots. It is suitable for baskets, 
vases and boxes, which do not get much sun. There is a variegated 
form with striking foliage. 

Senecio scandens ("German Ivy") — A few plants struck from cuttings 
in the Fall will give growth for a large number of cuttings after the first 
of the yean 



66 VASE AND BASKET PLANTS. 

Othonna crassifolia (" Little Pickles")— This plant will stand full sun- 
shine with very little water. It is of procumbent growth with, small 
yellow flowers. Lift a few old plants before frost, and merely lay them 
on the front of a sunny bench. A dozen or two nice little tufts may be 
potted up from a single plant. 

Lysimachia nummularia, the Money Wort, will thrive in shade or 
sun. There is a pretty variety with yellowish leaves. 

Ipomzea Tubiculata— With small star-shaped leaves, throws out quan- 
tities of hanging growths. Every bit of stem with a leaf attached will 
root either in Fall or Spring. 

Vinca major var. elegantissima comes in very serviceable, not only for 
vases and baskets, but for indoor decoration. Specimens for this pur- 
pose should be in 5-inch pots, or even larger. Plants rooted early in 
the Fall and kept growing will, in course of time, make very long 
growths. A good place for them in this condition of growth is on the 
front of a sunny bench, where the growths are allowed to hang over the 
side. This plant does not show the effects of neglect as quickly as most 
other things. 

For Indoor Boxes for Windows or other places where there is not 
much light the following plants will be found useful, as they are almost 
hardy, and, with ordinary care, they will last a long time in a presenta- 
ble condition: Eohdea japonica and the variegated form will stand in 
the coldest places. These plants, by the way, are perfectly hardy here, 
the foliage being but slightly browned during the coldest weather. 
Aspidistra elatior and A. e. variegata, together with the spotted leaved 
species called A. punctata, while not so hardy as the Eohdea, yet they will 
stand a good deal of cold. Of course, the plants will have to be small, 
in 5 or 6-inch pots. Old plants broken up for this purpose and immedi- 
ately used are not to be depended upon, as the principal roots are apt to 
get severed in the operation. Many of the New Zealand Cordylines, 
with narrow green leaves, can be utilized for drafty places; they will 
stand considerable frost without hurt if they have been grown cool. 
Farfugium grande, a broad-leaved composite with yellow spots, is 
another well-known plant which comes through zero weather all right. 
Niphobolus lingua corymbifera, a tough-leaved crested Fern, can be got 
up in quantity for use by division of the stems which grow near the 
surface of the soil. Lastrea prolifica, a dwarf dark green leaved species; 
Lastrea opaca, Pteris serrulata, and Adiantum Capillus- Veneris are all 
pretty hardy, as well as ornamental species of Ferns good for the 
purpose. 



67 



Vines, Hardy and Tender* 

ADENOCALYHNA COHOSUM— This is one of the best tender vines 
where it can be given enough head room. If planted out and otherwise 
treated according to its requirements, it will make growths 70 feet in 
length. It is closely related to the Bignonias. Flowers are bright yel- 
low, being borne in large racemes. It blooms in midwinter. Propagated 
by cuttings of the ripe wood in late Summer. 

AKEBI A QUINAT A— Although a climbing plant, and a very hand- 
some one, it is frequently grown to answer the same purpose as bush 
plants of Jasminum nudiflorum. For this purpose it should be allowed 
to ramble over low supports. For trellis work it is well adapted. Al- 
though a common plant we seldom, see it in fruit, which is probably 
accounted for by the fact that the pistillate flowers come into bloom 
before the staminate ones, thus preventing fertilization; besides, they 
flower at a period when fertilization out-of-doors is a somewhat preca- 
rious operation with vines brought from other countries. Its propaga- 
tion is brought about from cuttings of the current year's growth, choos- 
ing wood not too thick nor yet the weakest branches. Make the cut- 
tings with two or more leaves on them, and place together in a cool 
bed; root them in time to be put in a cool frame for the Winter. 

AMPELOPSIS VEITCHII and A. ROYLEI differ from each other 
only in that the former is the smaller of the two in leaf and fruit. A. 
Roylei is, perhaps, the more rapid grower of the two. They are both 
ideal vines for covering walls, not only for ornamental appearance, but 
what is of more importance, in warding off the rain from the walls. It 
may be noticed that the foliage is imbricated; that is, the lowest leaves, 
the blades of which hang almost perpendicularly, are covered for nearly 
half of their length from the base by the ends of the leaves above; thus 
the water drips from one to the other instead of being absorbed by the 
substance against which the vine grows. Another good reason why it 
should be planted much more freely is, that it keeps the sun from the 
walls, making quite an appreciable difference in the temperature of the 
interior of the dwelling. The fruit may be gathered about the begin- 
ning of November, the seeds washed clear of the pulp, and sown in a 
frame having a southern exposure. Do not sow thickly as the cotyle- 
dons are large, and damping off may result before the seedlings are 
transplanted. By the middle of May the seedlings are ready for han- 
dling. They may either be put in small pots, singly, or three in a 3-inch 
pot, plunged in ashes in a frame, the sash put on and shaded for a few 
days until the young plants have taken with the soil. The Ampelopsis, 
owing to the nature of the roots, are best transplanted out of pots. A. 
Engelmanni, A. diversifolia and A. aconitifolia, all good kinds in their 



68 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 

way, are treated similarly to the first-named kinds as regards propa- 
gating. 

ANTIGNON LEPTOPUS— In the Southern States this is one of the 
most satisfactory vines; even in Washington it blooms for about two 
months out of doors; that is, when put out as small plants. When large 
specimens are planted out the period of blooming is much longer. The 
flowers are bright pink, in very large clusters. It should be propagated 
from cuttings taken in September; make the cuttings with a single leaf 
attached, and cut below a joint. The large roots are tuberous looking, 
enabling the old plants to be easily wintered over in a cool house. 

ARAUJA (Schubertia) GRANDIFLORA— It is seldom that we see this 
noble vine grown well in greenhouses, the plants being usually sickly 
and infested with mealy bug. As a Summer vine out of- doors it makes 
very vigorous growth, and after midsummer it bears a profusion of 
bloom. The flowers are not unlike those of Stephanotis floribunda, but 
are larger and quite as sweetly scented. Cuttings make the best flower- 
ing vines. These may be taken from the ripe wood before the advent of 
cool weather. Seeds are freely produced in large egg-shaped fruits; they 
germinate freely shortly after being sown. 

ARISTOLOCHIA STURTEVANTII and A. ELEGANS are easy to grow, 
and are almost certain to produce an abundant crop of their 
exceedingly curious flowers. A. Sturtevantii has soft growth, more so 
than any other species, and roots very readily from cuttings. A. elegans 
gets hard soon after developing, and is a trifle difficult to root; but seeds 
are produced abundantly, and the seedlings are every bit as floriferous 
as plants raised from cuttings. Both of these kinds may be planted out 
in Summer to cover trellis work. An intermediate house will suit them 
in Winter. A. elegans ripens seeds in the open at Washington. Further 
North the seasons are too short, unless large plantstfare taken to start 
with. 

A. sipho is a native species, but far behind the tropical ones in the 
beauty of its flowers. Sometimes we need a vine for covering unsightly 
structures under the shade of trees; this is the best to be had, as it luxu- 
riates under those conditions. It is most easily raised from seeds. 

ASPARAGUS PLUnOSUS NANUS— Plants in beds requiring divid- 
ing and replanting should be attended to about the middle of July, 
so as to make sufficient root growth to enable the plants to send up 
strong shoots. Keep dry for a short time before dividing. This will 
have a tendency to render any young roots which may be on the plant 
less succulent, and after planting they will push out all right again. 
Solid beds, with the idea of having them in good condition for several 
seasons, should be carefully prepared. The ground soil should, if reten- 
tive, be thrown out to a considerable depth, drainage, such as broken 
brick or stones, put in the bottom, and the soil put back with a little 
manure or leaf soil mixed with it. This is merely for the sub-soil. Over 
this prepared soil 8 inches or a foot deep should be placed, boxing the 
sides to a height of 6 inches or so. With the crowns raised above the 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 69 

ground level of the house there is little danger of over-watering. After 
planting, for a week or so allow the atmosphere to get humid, but not 
enough to force the plants into undue activity. This Asparagus, which 
is probably entitled to specific rank, instead of being a variety of A. 
plumosus, sends out some of its stems from the horizontal root-stock 
traversing a considerable distance under the surface before making their 
appearance above ground. If the terminal part of an underground stem 
is injured before making its appearance above ground, the dormant 
buds develop eventually into small crowns, sending out both shoots 
and long succulent roots. The same conditions happen sometimes after 
the developed shoot is severed, but in this case infrequently, as the break 
is more apt to be above ground. The kind known as A. plumosus does 
not have this peculiarity, the shoots growing straight from the crowns. 

A. Plumosus Nanus as a Pot Plant— In this capacity the plants must be 
in a starved state, that is, without strong shoots; but with numerous 
small ones 6 inches to a foot high. When once they get into a starved 
state it takes quite a while to get them out of it, and this is quickest 
accomplished by splitting the plant up into very small pieces. This 
should only be done when it is desirable to make plants for strings. The 
root stocks are very close together, crowding each other and sending 
out tiny growths. When grown in pots they seldom make tall climbing 
shoots, and when they do show such a tendency, all that is necessary 
to keep plants within bounds is to nip off the ends of the shoots a few 
inches above the pot. In getting up a stock for pot plants plant them 
out on benches, using only 3 or 4 inches of soil, planting out quite 
r closely together; keep pinching, splitting up and replanting or potting 
as required. 

A Plumosus Nanus for Short Sprays— The cutting of short growths 
of this plant to supply green for Summer flowers, beyond the safe 
limit, is an evil to be guarded against. The idea should be kept in 
mind all the time that this Asparagus, especially after the strings are 
cut and the short bushy sprays remain, needs so much live material to 
keep it healthv. If the quantity of branches is out of proportion to the 
roots and kept for any length of time in that condition, the roots must 
suffer; the branches subsequently thrown up put on that undesirable 
yellow color which is worse than no Asparagus at all. Keep old plants 
pinched down until the time when it is desired to start strings, so that 
the bottom part will break and supply short material, which in Sum- 
mer pays best with those growing for local trade. The plants should, 
if anything, be kept on the dry side, but not dry enough to suffer, and 
be given an abundance of ventilation. 

Raising from Seed— Seed of Asparagus plumosus nanus, orthat which 
is offered under the name of A. p. nanus, is not always to be depended 
upon, unless the seed is procured from a reliable source or home grown, 
and known to be true to name. The reason for this is that A. plumo- 
sus is the kind which fruits most freely, and some not knowing the dif- 
ference between the two sorts and others knowing, but also appreciat- 
ing the fact that A. p. nanus is the better of the two, and that seed 
going under the name of the latter is sure to command the best prices. 



70 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 

Germination is very irregular with seed sown in some soils. The best 
medium I have found is rough grained sand that does not pack. Cover 
to the depth of half an inch. 

A. tenuissimus is of a lighter green than A. plumosus and A. p. 
nanus. If cuttings of the ripe branches are put in bottom heat they will 
root freely. In small potstne plants are very ornamental and useful for 
associating with ferns and other plants in filling pans. This Asparagus 
used to be trained on strings, but has been superseded for this purpose 
by A. p. nanus. 

BIGNONIA VENUSTA is one of the most reliable of our warm green- 
house climbers. It should be planted out in a box built of bricks, such 
box being large enough to hold several bushels of soil. The ideal way 
to train is to a single main stem along the rafters of the greenhouse. 
From this stem the growths on which the flowers appear are allowed 
to hang downward to their full length. By judicious trimming of these 
growths, and short resting periods before starting into growth, two 
crops of bloom may be had each year. The flowers are reddish orange 
in color, and are produced in great profusion. Propagation is by cut- 
tings of the ripe growths in March. The plant will bear full sunshine 
all the year round. 

B0UGA1NVILLEA SPECTABILIS and B. LATERITIA which is said 
to be a variety of the former, are sometimes shy in blooming; but the 
cause will be found in unsuitable root conditions. Planted in well 
drained soil and fed with liquid manure while making the flowering 
wood, they are equally as attractive as the better known B. glabra. 
Like the Bignonias they should be trained to long single stems, and 
flowered from lateral growths, pruning these severely before starting 
into growth. Propagated freely from cuttings of the ripe wood. 

BOUSSINGAULTIA BASELLOIDES (Madeira Vine)— In well drained 
sunny situations, such as may be found at the south side of a wall, this 
plant frequently stands out all the year round in Washington, D. C. It 
is a favorite vine with a great many people. It is very readily increased 
by taking the little tubercles which form on the vine and sowing them 
in rows in the open, without supports. The tubers, which form under- 
ground, may also be taken, cut up into small pieces and treated in the 
same way. After the vines are blackened by frost, dig up and store with 
Dahlia roots. 

BRYONIA LACINIOSA— A slender cut-leaved vine, with rather hand- 
some red fruit the size of a cherry, beautifully marked with white. 
Baised from seeds, which may be sown out-of-doors end of April. 

CHILDSIA (Hidalgoa) WERCKLEI— A native of the mountain regions 
of Costa Bica and only recently introduced, so that but little is known 
of its cultural requirements. It is a vine of soft growth with compound 
leaves. The flowers are not unlike those of a single Zinnia; the color is 
intense scarlet. Like other greenhouse vines of this family (Compositae) 
such as the Mutisias, the weak growths will not produce flowers, conse- 
quently the plants should be encouraged to make robust growth, espe- 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 71 

cially during the late Winter months, to flower in April and May. When 
planted out in Summer the vines make very rapid headway, but the 
flower display is meagre. For the Southern States and California it 
may turn out to be a very desirable vine. With us it seems to thrive 
best in a rather cool house. 

CISSUS DISCOLOR— No other vine approaches this species in so far 
as the beauty of its foliage is concerned. The leaves are reddish on the 
lower surface; on the upper surface the color is bright velvety green 
mottled with silver; stem red. It is usually grown in a warm house, 
where its growth is very rapid. Cuttings of the ripened wood will root 
at almost any period of the year. C. antarctica is a well-known win- 
dow plant, for which purpose it is admirably suited. It is not particular 
as to treatment. 

CLEMATIS PANICULATA is a hardy white flowering vine, blooming 
during August and September. It has jumped quickly into popular 
favor, being one of the best hardy vines in cultivation. Seeds ripeninNo- 
vember. Raising from seed is the best and easiest method of propagation. 
If sown when ripe the seed will germinate early in Spring and make fair- 
sized plants by the following Fall; but if kept till Spring, and sown 
then, they will not germinate till the Fall; even then they have to be 
carried over in boxes in frames, and are not much in advance of the seed- 
lings which germinate the following Spring. From this it will be seen 
that a year's growth is gained by Fall sowing. Like most other Clema- 
tises it does best in deep, heavy loam well enriched with manure. 

Grafting Large=Flowered Varieties— Clematis of the Jackmanni and 
Lanuginosa types, that is, those having the large blue, purple, lavender 
or white flowers, some of them, the singles, being about 8 inches across 
and some double, are all worth attention, as they give an elegant dis- 
play of flowers from June all through the Summer; that is, if properly 
attended to in the way of soil, mulching and watering. They all dislike 
limited root space and show it in poor-sized flowers and few of them. 
The varieties may be propagated from the beginning of January till the 
beginning of April. Lift a few roots of such species as C. ligustrifolia, C. 
paniculata or C. viticella for tying on pieces of any of the sorts desired to 
be increased. Whip grafting will answer best. Tie the stock and cion 
together with raffia and place in a box of chopped moss, standing the 
box in a propagating frame with a temperature of from 65 to 70 
degrees. Afterward they are gradually given air, potted on, and hard- 
ened off as they require it. Encourage them to make all the growth 
possible before cool weather. They should be started early in the season 
in a cool house not too much heated. With one or two flowers on they 
are ready selling plants, and all that are sold will be advertisements for 
next season's supply. Another method of propagation is to take cut- 
tings of the young wood about the middle of June, and root indoors. 
This is the method mostly employed in this country; but grafted stock 
make the strongest plants in a given space of time, owing to the 
stronger root action. 

The beautiful C. coccinea is a variety of our native C. Vorna. It is 



72 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 

well adapted for wire trellis work. There are other good forms, such 
as Countess of York, Countess of Onslow and Duchess of Albany. 

CLERODENDRON THOMSONS— A wonderfully floriferous vine, which 
can be flowered successfully in 6 and 8-inch pots. Old plants may 
be allowed to get in a dormant state in Autumn reduced and repotted 
in February, but as much as possible of the old wood saved, as from 
this they produce flowers on short growths. Each plant will require 
the support of three or four stocks. Cuttings may be struck in Spring 
and planted out during the hot months to make growth. The flower is 
bright crimson, the calyx being large and pure white. 

C. speciosum— In growth this resembles the above. The flowers are 
scarlet, and the calyx tinged with red. 

CLITORIA TERNATEA— A half-hardy annual vine, and one of the 

very best, making an exceedingly pleasing display when in rich soil and 
given supports about 4 feet high. The flowers are dark blue, in shape 
and size resembling those of the Sweet Pea. The seed should be started 
indoors early. The seedlings, no matter how carefully they are tended, 
look as if they had a hard struggle for existence, but under the influence 
of full sunshine they will make good plants by the middle of May, when 
they may be planted out for the Summer. This vine is sometimes grown 
as a creeper, but the very attractive flowers are better seen when it is 
allowed to climb. It is an ideal plant for growing on iron railings. 
There are pink, white, and double-flowered forms. 

COB^EA SCANDENS— When grown indoors as a perennial this vine 
will attain a length of 30 feet. In this country it is principally grown 
as an annual for outdoor use in Summer. As the seeds germinate quickly 
and need pricking off shortly, or almost immediately after germinating, 
owing to their large cotyledons, it will save time to put each seed in a 
2-inch pot; fill the pots and merely press the seed in edgewise. No cov- 
ering is necessary if the seed be pressed in deeply so that only the upper 
edge is seen when the soil is settled by watering. C. s. variegata is a 
pretty form for the greenhouse. Increased by cuttings. 

HEDERA HELIX (English Ivy)— The varieties of this species are numer- 
ous; some have very small leaves like H. Doneraliensis, others are very 
large leaved, as, for instance, H. dentata. Others again are beautifully 
variegated. Nearly all of the Ivies make good pot plants, and some of 
the varieties will develop more leaves and stems to a given size of pot 
than any other plant in cultivation. If the cuttings are taken from 
outdoor plants propagation should be done in Autumn, as then the foli- 
age is at its best, and it keeps splendidly during the Winter months on 
good-sized cuttings rooted in frames. The variegated kinds should be 
given the protection of a frame, especially for stock purposes; and cut- 
tings of these kinds are rooted in March. They will not root so freely 
from large-sized cuttings as from more moderate-sized ones. The less 
sun the plants get in Winter the hardier they will be, as rapid thawing 
and freezing is injurious to the foliage. Where a supply of leaves is 
wanted during the Winter the vines may be planted on a position slop- 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 73 

ing to the north. In cold localities a light covering of fine branches 
will be beneficial. 

HOYA CARNOSA is the most popular of the genus. It has large 
umbels of flesh-colored flowers. It is a popular house plant with many. 
There is a beautifully variegated form. For cuttings take good sized 
pieces, pot and plunge in brisk bottom heat. The young plants should, 
if started early, be given a rather high temperature. In Summer they 
may be plunged in the full sun out-of-doors. An intermediate house and 
only a moderate supply of water will suit them in Winter. 

HUflULUS JAPONICUS VARIEGATUS— In the warmer parts of the 
country, at least, this vine is a hardy annual, and one of the most hand- 
some of those having variegated leaves. To have an early growth, the 
seeds should be sown about the beginning of March and the seedlings 
potted off singly when large enough. Green leaves preponderate on the 
seedlings, gradually becoming better colored as the plants increase in 
height. 

IPOMCEA— The Japanese Morning Glories vary much in the color of 
the flowers, and while some of them are undoubtedly pretty there are 
numerous shades which will never become popular. A year or two ago 
out of a package of seed I had 25 distinct shades of colors. None of 
them approach in beauty the well-known. I. Learii or the kind known as 
I. rubro-ccerulea. The first named is evidently a perennial without 
tubers, and it is propagated from cuttings; the last named, from seed. 
The tuberous-rooted kinds need only to be treated like Cannas or 
Dahlias during the Winter. In Summer few climbers can equal them in 
perpetual masses of bloom. Ipomcea paniculata is probably the best of 
the lot. Other good ones are I. scabra, 1. Hardingii, I. Horsfalliae and 
I. insignis. The two last named are nearly] alike, but I. insignis is the 
best Summer bloomer. I. Michauxi, a native of the Southern States, 
makes an excellent outdoor vine if started early in the greenhouse. 
Under cultivation the large flowering variety of the native I. pandurata 
makes a display of bloom never seen in a wild state. As to their propa- 
gation I. Horsfalliae and I. insignis are either rooted from cuttings taken 
during September, or grafted on seedling stocks of I. pandurata. The 
other tuberous-rooted kinds are best raised from seed, which should be 
preserved in the capsules until the beginning of February and sown in 
boxes of chopped sphagnum, in which they germinate much sooner 
than in soil. Keep in a growing atmosphere, as the seedlings are prone 
to develop tubers and go to rest shortly after the seed leaves are formed. 

Ipomcea Briggsii is one of the best flowering vines of moderate growth 
for the decoration of the greenhouse during the Winter months. Most 
of the other Ipomoeas bloom during the Summer, but this one makes a 
liberal supply of shoots during the Summer from which it blooms dur- 
ing the dull months of the year. The color of the flowers is very deep 
crimson. The old plants should be repotted in early Summer, using 
light, rich soil and giving them pots large enough to flower in. As the 
shoots develop they should be tied around stakes, and later on, if wanted 



74 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 

to cover pillars or rafters, these shoots can easily be untied and fastened 
in the positions in which they are wanted to bloom. 

Ipomoea grandiflora (The Moonf lower) — Plants from Autumnstruck 
cuttings which were shifted on after the first potting, will, by the begin- 
ning of February, be throwing out a quantity of shoots which are 
intended to be utilized for cuttings. When these shoots get a foot or 
more in length nip the ends out, as by doing so the remaining part will 
ripen more quickly and provide better material for single eye cuttings. 
The plants from these will be large enough by planting-out time. Large 
flowering plants of the common Moonflower will often ripen considerable 
quantities of seed; these, when gathered, are very large and rather soft, 
but when kept for some time they diminish in size and get very hard, so 
much so that they refuse to germinate under ordinary conditions. Put 
them into a flat of water and stand the vessel on a warm bench for a 
day or two, when the seeds will soften. This condition will be indicated 
by their swelling to two or three times their normal size; they should 
then be sown singly in small pots, keeping the soil only slightly moist 
to prevent rotting. The Moonflower is comparatively seldom seen. One 
of the probable reasons is, that at the planting-out season the vines are 
unattractive-looking, and as most people want plants in bloom when 
they buy, the Moonflower is overlooked. Plants should be in 4-inch pots 
before planting out, as those out of smaller sized pots take too long a 
time to develop. 

KADSURA JAPONICA— A rather-attractive looking vine allied to the 
Magnolias, with small yellowish white pendant flowers. It is propa- 
gated from the ripe wood in August. 

LAPAGERIA ROSEA and L. ALBA— Our hot Summers are not favora- 
ble for the growth of this plant under ordinary circumstances. Where a 
cool shaded spot can be devoted to it success may follow. To flower 
well the Lapageria should be planted out. Propagation is best effected 
by layering the stems. This subject is one of the choicest of cool green- 
house climbers. 

LATHYRUS LATIFOLIUS ALBUS is among the finest of Summer 
flowering herbaceous plants. The flowers are pure white and come in 
very useful for making up designs. It is a comparatively scarce plant and 
the seeds offered by dealers are not always to be depended upon, as the 
pollen from the pink flowered one, usually to be found in gardens, seems 
to act quicker on tne stigmas of the white variety than its own pollen. 
In seeding theyshould be kept apart so that there will be no danger 
of their mixing. Sow the seeds indoors, in boxes or flats, and keep in 
growth all Winter. In a temperate house the plants will only be in 3- 
inch pots by planting-out time in the Spring. To support the vines run 
some stout branches in the ground around the plants, bend and tie 
together at the top. 

Sweet Peas are sown at different seasons in different localities, to be 
in bloom at or about the same time. In the vicinity of Washington the 
crop put in the ground during the latter half of September is usually 8 
or 4 inches high by the beginning of December. The crop put in from 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 75 

four to six weeks later is usually in bloom about the same time as the 
plants raised from seeds sown during the end of February or beginning 
of March; but the early sown crop is in bloom from two to three weeks 
ahead of the others. Aside from early flowering nothing is gained, for 
it cannot be said that the plants are stronger or better able to with- 
stand warm and dry weather. In this vicinity it is impossible for the 
plants to continue in health during the very warm weather. In more 
Northern latitudes the season is much longer. To have the plants in a 
flowering state for as long a time as possible they should be mulched 
and watered, choosing the most airy stretch of ground for their 
cultivation. Plants for blooming indoors should be sown just as soon 
as the weather gets a little cool. They may either be sown in their per- 
manent positions, or in pots, and planted out where they are to bloom. 
There is a very large number of varieties grown for the retail seed trade; 
but six varieties at the very most are quite enough for the production of 
cut blooms. 

Supports for Sweet Peas— Sweet Pea vines should never be allowed 
to tumble to one side from their own weight through lack of a suitable 
support. The most natural supports are branches of trees, about 4 or 
5 feet long, stuck in on each side of the row. The plants are provided 
with tendrils which cling to the small twigs of the branches. , A quicker 
method, the results of which are not quite so satisfactory, is to have 
strong sticks driven in at intervals of a few feet along the rows, with 
twine or wire fastened to them. Wire netting of a pretty wide mesh, 
when properly adjusted, makes the best support. It is the most expen- 
sive at first, but in the long run the cheapest, as it can be taken care of 
to last for years. Perhaps the best method of using the wire netting is 
to stretch it fastened to iron supports between two rows of peas, thinly 
sown, each row about 12 or 18 inches apart. 

LONICERA SEMPERVIRENS (Woodbine) is a most beautiful native 
species; the flowers are darkredand yellow. There are several varieties; 
one has pale yellow flowers. L. caprifolium, flowers yellowish, large. L. 
Periclymenum is the common English Honeysuckle. It is a very strong 
growing vine and exceedingly fragrant. L. japonica produces flowers 
dull red and white; very fragrant; a most profuse bloomer. L. Hal- 
leana, the flowers of this species open pure white, changing to a dull 
yellow; when the plants get sufficient moisture they continue blooming 
all Summer. L. brachypoda aureo-reticulata is a weak grower if not 
planted in good soil. It is grown for its beautifully marked foliage, 
which is netted with yellow. L. Heckrotii, a species with glaucous foli- 
age and very handsome reddish pink flowers, blooms continuously from 
near midsummer. All the kinds root freely from ripe wood after mid- 
summer. 

nANETTIA CORDIFOLIA— One of the handsomest of the low-growing 
flowering vines, growing about 4 feet in a season, and covered from 
midsummer on with bright red tubular flowers. It is almost hardy in 
the District of Columbia, surviving ordinary Winters with the protection 
of some litter thrown over the crowns. Green cuttings are not very 
easily rooted, nor does the plant give an abundance of material for this 



76 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 

purpose. But by root cuttings a one-year-old specimen may be made 
the parent of a hundred or more plants. To give large and healthy 
roots for this purpose, the plants should be planted out early. By the 
middle of October the tops are cut off, the roots lifted and put in boxes 
of sand for a few weeks. In preparing for the root cuttings take a box, 
in the bottom of which put some rough screenings, then 2 inches of fine 
soil made very firm; put the pieces of roots (about three-quarters of an 
inch in length,) on the surface, then cover with three-quarters of an inch 
of coarse grained sand and put in a warm house. When the growths 
have made two pairs of leaves put each growth in a 2-inch pot, shifting 
into 3-inch pots as they require it. 

M. bicolor is apt to run too much to weedy growth during Summer, 
especially in the warmer parts of the country. Cuttings of the green 
wood root quickly. Those propagated early in September make nice 
flowering plants in 4-inch pots for Winter blooming in the cool conser- 
vatory. 

P^CDERIA FCETIDA — Usually grown as a stove and greenhouse 
climber, but it is hardier than is generally supposed. We have old plants 
which have stood out in the open border for over ten years. It is rather 
an attractive-looking, but not a free-blooming vine. The leaves, or any 
part of the plant, when bruised, emit a most offensive odor. Cuttings 
should be put in any time after the growths are matured. 

PASSIFLORA INCARNATA is said to be hardy around Philadelphia. 
It is one of the most rapid growing species; has large whitish flowers 
and bears seeds abundantly. 

P. ccerulea is apt to get killed to the ground in Winter north of 
Washington. P. Constance Elliott is a white flowered variety, seem- 
ingly hardy and more floriferous than the type. P. Imperatrice Eugenie, 
P. Innesii, P. Lawsoniana and P. Munroi are good hybrids. Stock 
plants will Winter if planted in a frame, the back of which is formed by 
the wall of a warm house. These may be propagated from cuttings of 
ripe growths any time in late Summer. P. alata and P. quadrangularis 
are stove climbers with large, handsome flowers. P. aucubaefolia, a 
variety of the last named, has the foliage handsomely marked with 
yellowish blotches. 

PETREA VOLUBILIS— A greenhouse climber of very irregular growth, 
bearing in March and April long racemes of very showy purple flowers. 
The calyces are only a few shades lighter in color than the corollas. 
This plant should be in every greenhouse collection. It is very suitable 
for training up rafters. Cuttings of the dormant wood will root in heat; 
the best time to do the worn is just before the plants start into growth. 

PUERARIA THUNBERGIANA has for several years been distributed 
throughout the country under the name of Dolichos japonicus. It is a 
hardy, trifoliate-leaved vine, having inconspicuous purplish pea-shaped 
flowers, which are seldom produced except on the old wood of well- 
established plants. The flowers amount to but little, however; in fact, 
no one would grow the vine on account of the flower display. It is the 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 77 

rapidity with which the vine will cover space which has made it a favor- 
ite with those'who have given it a trial. It is, without doubt, the most 
rapid growing hardy vine in cultivation, and is useful either for cover- 
ing the ground, for trellis work, and especially for hiding unsightly 
structures. Propagation is brought about by cuttings. They should 
oe put in by the end of August, to enable the plants to make a little 
headway so as to stand over Winter safely. The leaves, being large 
and soft, should be laid flat on the sand without being shortened back 
in any way, and allowing only about 3 inches of stem with each leaf. 
Roots are produced from the under part of the stem a short distance 
from where the leaf joins. It seldom happens that cuttings root in the 
ordinary way, that is, from the cut part of the stem, so that they are 
ready for potting in a few days after being put in the sand. Good 
plants may be had in a short time by layering at this period, keeping 
the ground moist during the operation. 

SENECIO SCANDENS (German Ivy)— A useful soft growing vine with 
leaves the shape of the English Ivy (Hedera). Propagate a few plants 
in the Autumn, and from these a great number of cuttings may be taken 
off early in Spring. The plants are principally used for growing over 

the sides of baskets, vases, and also for twining to supports. 
• 
SMIL AX (Myrsiphyllum asparagoides)— Old beds of Smilax grown 
year after year are rather unsatisfactory, the growths being either too 
irregular or weak. The plan which insures a regular growth and allows 
the bed in which it is grown to be used for other purposes during a por- 
tion of the year, is to raise the plants annually from seed. This should 
be sown during February, in a warm house. Put the seedlings in thumb 
pots when large enough, shift to 3-inch pots and plant out from this 
size after midsummer. The plants will be benefited by a warm atmos- 
phere from the seedling stage until ready for cutting. 

SOLANUM WENDLANDII— In the Southern States this should prove 
a desirable garden vine. The flowers are arranged in cymes from 6 to 
10 inches across (bright lilac blue) on the ends of the hanging branches. 
In this latitude the seasons are too short for small plants to make much 
of a floral display in the open. As a greenhouse climber, however, it 
ought to have a place where sufficient room can be devoted to it. Cut- 
tings should be made from the short lateral growths, taken about the 
end of September. 

STIGriAPHYLLON CILIATUM (Butterfly Vine)— The flowers of this 
plant are not unlike those of some species of Oncidiums, both in form 
and color. It is one of our best medium-sized vines for trellis work. For 
pot culture it is of little service, and only thrives in the greenhouse when 
planted out. September is the best month for propagation. On out- 
door plants much of the wood is useless for this purpose, being thin and 
soft. Choose the growths which were made early in the season; a heel 
or a joint is not necessary. Root them in bottom heat, potting in 2-inch 
pots, and afterward in 3-inch pots, in which they will pass the Winter. 

TECOMA GRANDIFLORA differs from our native T.radicans in having 
very much larger flowers. It makes a very showy vine when in bloom 



78 VINES, HARDY AND TENDER. 

late in Summer. A good plan to show off this vine to advantage is to 
grow it against a stout support, made of iron or wood, several feet 
high, and when it gets to the toj> encourage it to become bushy by fre- 
quent pinching. Propagation is sometimes attempted from portions of 
the roots cut into small pieces, but unless certain that the plant is on its 
own roots this is a dangerous practice and has resulted in much disap- 
pointment, as the resulting plants may turn out to be nothing but the 
native T. radicans, on which T. grandiflora is frequently grafted. After 
these root cuttings make considerable growth it is quite a difficult mat- 
ter to tell whether they are T. grandiflora or the native species, so 
closely does the foliage of the two species resemble each other. Those 
on roots of T. radicans make plants quicker than from root-cuttings, or 
from cuttings of the green or dormant wood. Cuttings of the branches 
are a trifle difficult to manage at any time, but the ripened growths of 
young plants will give the best results, as then the wood is not nearly 
so thick and pithy as in old specimens. 

THUNBERGIA— This genus includes some very desirable greenhouse 
climbers, and at least one species, with several varieties, useful for vases, 
baskets, and as a vine of moderate growth for the mixed border. This 
is T. alata. Seeds will germinate outside, but to produce early effects 
they may be sown indoors early in the season and hardened off with 
other soft wooded plants. The best greenhouse species are: T. laurifo- 
lia, white and blue flowered; T. fragrans, pure white, and T. mysoren- 
sis, purple and yellow. The perennial species may be raised from seeds, 
but plants obtained in this way are apt to have a weedy growth and 
turn out to be shy in blooming. Cuttings put in about February will 
furnish the finest flowering plants. 

VITIS HETEROPHYIXA VARIEOATA is a vine of straggling growth, 
with very handsome colored foliage. It may be planted with English or 
Boston Ivies to break the monotony of a large expanse of green. The 
variegated form comes true from seed ; it should be treated in the same 
manner as seeds of Ampelopsis. The fruit of Vitis heterophylla is re- 
markable in being green, creamy white and violet blue at different stages 
of growth. 

WISTARIA CHINENSIS flowers before the leaves are fully expanded. 
Old and floriferous plants have a gorgeous appearance when in full 
bloom. It may be grown as a standard trained to a stout post sunk 
in the ground, or as a vine for arbors, etc. There are several varieties 
of this species: W. c. flore-pleno having double flowers, W. c. macrobo- 
trys, a variety with very long and fight-colored racemes. W. frutescens 
is a native species, flowering later than the Chinese plant. Propagation 
is effected in various ways. The plants, as a rule, set seed freely, but the 
seedlings are apt to turn out shy bloomers. Seedlings of W. frutes- 
cens may be used as stocks on which to graft W. chinensis and its 
forms. The operation should be performed while the plants are dor- 
mant in March or April. The long growths may also be layered in mid- 
summer, allowing them to remain till well established. 



79 



Bulbous Plants, 



ACHIHENES— The usual method of cultivation is to start the tuber- 
cles from the end of February till the end of April, to give a succession 
of bloom. When the plants have made 2 inches of growth they are 
placed one by one in a wide shallow pan about 2 inches apart each way, 
eachgrowth being staked before plants show bloom. This method means 
a great amount of labor. I prefer starting the tubercles in their last 
season's flowering pans; after making a little headway divide into three 
or more equal parts and put into their flowering pans without supports. 
The specimens are not so symmetrical as those which are staked, but 
they give a satisfactory quantity of bloom and are most useful for the 
conservatory during the Summer months. 

For growing in suspended baskets in the greenhouse the older kinds 
are well suited. Use wire baskets, and with started plants build them 
in from the bottom upwards so that the sides will be clothed with them. 
The Achimenes do not need a very warm place for storage. During 
their resting season clip off the stems to within an inch or two of the 
pot instead of wrenching them out, as the tubercles are easily torn out 
with them. Stand the receptacles on their sides in a dry part of a cold 
house. No water will be required till Spring. 

AMARYLLIS (Hippeastrum)— These beautiful plants are not as much 
grown as their merits deserve; this is partly because the finer kinds are 
somewhat expensive, especially when flowering bulbs are purchased. 
With a few good sorts to start with they may be increased, and even 
new varieties raised much more rapidly in America than in Europe, as 
our Summers are very favorable to their rapid growth and increase by 
offsets. Seeds are produced quite freely, and from this method of prop- 
agation flowering plants are raised with little trouble. Most of the 
very numerous hybrids now in cultivation are the progeny of A. vittata 
and A. Ackermanni. There are two methods of culture— growing in 
pots all the year round, and growing them during Summer planted out 
in the open, lifting and potting in the Fall. I much prefer the first 
method for the production of the largest sized blooms. Few flowers 
are more attractive than those of the Amaryllis; they are borne in 
umbels on stout scapes well above the foliage. The colors are princi- 
pally crimson, blood red and white, some of the varieties being beauti- 
fully striped and mottled. Their season of blooming is generally from 
January to May. About the beginning of the year the pot-grown bulbs 
which are dormant should be removed from the pots and repotted in 
good, rich compost; at first water only to settle the soil, gradually 
increasing the supply. Some bulbs will show flowers early; these, if 
wanted in bloom quickly, will be forced along with a minimum tempera- 
ture of 60 degreeg, By giving too high a temperature the foliage is 



80 BULBOUS PLANTS. 

weakened, and it must be borne in mind that the plants make their prin- 
cipal growth for the season after the flowers are past, so that too early 
forcing is apt to endanger the health of the bulb. After blooming, the 
pot plants should be kept in an open frame till the end of September, 
with some loose material, such as stable litter, between the pots to pre- 
vent a too rapid evaporation of moisture; feed them frequently with 
liquid manure. A deeo frame heated so as to exclude frost will be found 
the best place for the pot plants during the resting season. By the end 
of May bulbs may be planted out-of-doors. A border sloping to the 
south should be chosen. Immediately after planting give a heavy 
mulching of manure, and to insure continuous growth keep them well 
watered during dry spells, otherwise, when the time comes for lifting 
the plants, some will be at rest, others in full vigor of growth. In the 
latter case the transfer to the flower pot cannot be effected without 
detriment to the bulbs; the roots are larg$, preventing a suitable quan- 
tity of soil being given while using a pot within a reasonable size; 

Raising Plants from Seeds— The seed will mature on pot-grown 
plants about the end of July. Sow as soon as gathered. The seeds do 
not require much covering, and ought to be kept in a warm atmosphere, 
not only while germinating, but until the plants are at least a year old, 
during which time they should be kept in a growing state. 

Propagation by Offsets — These may be separated from the pot plants 
during the operation of potting, or taken from the old bulbs when lift- 
ing in the open border in Autumn. In the latter case they may be stored 
for the Winter in boxes of sandy soil, and either potted off in Spring or 
planted out- with the larger bulb. 

AMORPHOPHALLUS— Useful for sub-tropical bedding, owing to their 
very handsome leaves; those of A. Eivieri, the species commonly met 
with in cultivation, being between 4 and 5 feet across. The petioles 
are necessarily stout and beautifully marbled with creamy white. The 
leaves are very much divided. In early Spring the flowers are produced 
before the leaves; they have such an offensive odor that unless seeds are 
wanted they should be cut off before developing. Propagation is from 
offsets and seeds. The large tubers are wintered in a manner similar to 
those of the fancy-leaved Caladiums. 

ANEHONE— The tuberous rooted species known as A. coronaria, A. 
fulgens, and A. hortensis are all natives of Southern Europe. When planted 
permanently the soil should be open and well drained, and if it is apt to 
bake in Spring give a top-dressing of leaf soil or stable manure thor- 
oughly rotted. This will keep the surface soft and enable the growths to 
break through easily. The above species are sometimes grown in pots; 
they may be planted in September or October, kept in a cold frame and 
flowered in Spring. A. fulgens is the most useful for this purpose. The 
many varieties are sold cheaply by dealers in bulbs. 

BULBOUS PLANTS— This term is generally applied indiscriminately 
to plants having thickened subterranean stems, such as Crocus and 
Gladiolus, including true bulbs, such as those of Lilium, Hyacinth and 
Allium. A true bulb is simply a resting bud composed of leaf scales, as 



BULBOUS PLANTS. 81 

in Lilium, or partly formed by the bases of the leaves of the previous 
season's growth, as in the Hyacinth and Onion. A Corm differs from a 
bulb in having the interior part solid; examples, Crocus and Gladiolus. 
A tuber is a swollen underground stem provided with latent buds, as in 
the Potato. The thickened tuber-like roots of the Dahlia are simply 
reservoirs of nutriment, and are known as tubercles. Terrestrial 
Orchids supply numerous other examples. 

CALADIUM, FANCY=LEAVED— There are several species and a great 
many forms of these gaudy foliage plants. They are principally used to 
fill the benches of the conservatory during the Summer months, when 
most of the usual greenhouse plants are occupying their Summer quar- 
ters out of doors. They are also used in bedding, and if the higher 
colored forms are avoided, choosing those in which green and red pre- 
dominate in the leaves, they will succeed well even in the full sun. A 
goodly quantity of bone meal worked into the soil before planting will 
make strong and well-colored leaves. 

Starting Tubers— The first lot of tubers should be started about the 
middle of February for conservatory decoration. They should first be 
gone over carefully, and any that show signs of rotting at the bottoms 
should have the decayed part cut or scraped off and dusted with pow- 
dered charcoal. The under part of a Caladium tuber, after it has 
reached a certain size, is more or less in a state of decay, but sometimes 
through being kept too wet, too dry, or in a too cold place, this natural 
decay is hastened by rot, which, if not checked, will kill the tuber in a 
short time. The white succulent roots start from the top part or neck 
of the tuber, near the base of the leaf-bud, so this part must be .covered 
and kept in an evenly moist state to start them into growth. I find the 
best conditions under which to start growth to be as follows: Take a 
box 3 inches deep, put half an inch of moss in the bottom; put in the 
bulbs close enough together so that at least half the space will be occu- 
pied, then cover with moss to the top of the box. Have the moss 
chopped so that the particles will fall easily from the roots previous to 
potting. This operation may best be done when the roots are from one 
to two inches long. A good soil should consist largely of leaf mould. As 
the tubers send out their roots shortly after putting in the moss'they 
should be transferred to pots before the roots get too long, else they 
will be injured in the operation. Pots should not be used of a size larger 
than will hold the tubers and roots comfortably, without danger of 
being bruised. The subsequent shifts should have a greater quantity of 
loam with rooted cow manure added. For specimen plants do not cut 
up the tubers, plant them whole. At the end of the season, as a rule 
they will have made quite as many easily detached tubers as if they had 
been cut up in the Spring. 

C. argyrites— The small-leaved kind called C. argyrites will be all the 
more useful if it be not started too early, as it is most needed late in the 
year. It keeps well among sawdust in paper bags. The tubers are so 
small that several hundred can be put in a small bag. The tubers can 
be increased at almost any time, even when the plants are in full growth, 



82 BULBOUS PLANTS. 

but preferably about the starting time, either before or after. They are 
cut up into pieces, each one with a bud or growth to it. 

Preparations for Lifting Tubers— By the beginning of October, and 
earlier in some localities, fancy-leaved Caladiums will soon begin to lose 
their bright colors, owing to the low temperature. Before this occurs 
go over them and renew the names, using fresh labels. If they are with- 
out names go over them all the same, jotting down the colors of the 
leaves, and whether certain kinds should be used again and so forth. 
All this is veVy necessary with the Caladium, as it is a coming bedding 
plant. I have not yet come to the conclusion whether it is best to plant 
them in the dormant state like Gladioli, or to start indoors before 
planting. I used to favor the latter method, mainly because there was 
something to look at as soon as planted. Some beds which 1 saw lately, 
owing to the splendid growth made from dormant tubers at planting 
time, spoke volumes in favor of this method. It certainly saves the 
time given to the starting and potting indoors. But again, more money 
can be got out of a plant, with its beautiful leaves, started in a 5-inch 
pot than can be got for a mere tuber that has no more beauty to it 
than a potato. 

Storing the Tubers — Outdoor plants as they lose their leaves should 
be dug up and laid under the bench of a house where the sun won't get 
at them. Give water occasionally to both roots" and foliage until the 
latter gradually decays. After the leaves are cut off and the tubers are 
dry, put as many as will go into a fair-sized pot, then run in dry sand 
and stand the pots in the warmest part of the house, where they will be 
free from drip. They should be kept in a temperature not lower than 
60 degrees during the Winter! Plants in pots will soon begin to look 
"seedy"' unless they be kept in a warm, close house. To rest them, 
withhold water gradually, and when the leaves are nearly gone, remove 
the pots to the driest and warmest part of the house, placing the pots 
on their sides. If room cannot be spared the plants may be knocked out 
of the pots and stored like the outdoor collection. 

Propagation — Many of the kinds form small tubers on the sides of the 
large ones; these are easily detached and grown on. Again, many sorts, 
especially some of the finer and recently introduced varieties, do not 
make these small tubers, or not in large enough numbers to be of much 
service; but it will usually be found that the large tubers have one or 
more eyes generally at the sides. These, if taken off with a piece of the 
tuber attached, either before or after starting, will make small plants 
the same season. In separating from the parent tuber dust the cut sur- 
faces with powdered charcoal, to prevent decay. If taken off before the 
tubers are started, put the pieces in warm sand to hasten the formation 
of roots. 

Caladium odoratum or Colocasia odorata is used much in the same 
manner for outdoor decoration in Summer as the well-known Colocasia 
esculenta. They are known from each other by C. odorata having thick 
fleshy stems above ground and the leaves pointing upward, or at 
least growing with the leaf blade horizontal, while C. esculenta has 
drooping leaf blades, and has no stem above ground. They are both 



BULBOUS PLANTS. 83 

wintered in the same way, that is, in a dormant condition, in a warm 
place, although C. odorata can easily be kept over Winter with the roots 
of the previous Summer preserved and the foliage green by storing the 
stems thickly together in boxes, keeping on the youngest leaves when 
lifted and storing plants in a fairly warm house, giving water occasion- 
ally. Well furnished plants can be had quicker from the stems of this 
than from those of C. esculenta. The propagation of C. odorata should 
be attended to during February. Cut up the long stems into pieces with 
a dormant eye to each piece, dust them over with powdered charcoal to 
prevent decay, and lay them in the sun to dry for a day or so; after- 
ward put in moss, not too wet, in a warm frame, where they will sprout 
much in the same manner as stove Alocasias. Pot as soon as the roots 
are sufficient in number. 

CONVALLARIA HAJALIS— Lily of the Valley pips used in this country 
for forcing purposes are obtained from abroad. There is, however, no 
reason why they should not be produced as good in the United States. 
Lily of the Valley thrives in some parts very luxuriantly, when grown in 
the shade of small trees with an annual top-dressing of decayed leaves or 
old manure. The pips are received during the early part of November, 
and the florist who can raise bloom successfully from these before Christ- 
mas does not need to be told anything of the plant's culture. At that 
time, however, good roots are obtainable from the previous year's sup- 
ply, kept in cold storage. Or home-grown material may, in time, be 
used, as then preparation could be made earlier with greater certainty 
of success in early blooming. Lily of the Valley is a decidedly artificial- 
looking flower when unaccompanied by its foliage. A stock of small 
pips should be put in the forcing house and given plenty time to develop 
the foliage for occasions when wanted. The material in which to place 
the pips may be pure sand, as no new roots are made during the forcing 
period. When taken from a temperature near the freezing point, increase 
it very gradually until a bottom heat of from 80 to 85 degrees is given 
for the actual work of forcing. The pips may be kept almost in the 
dark at first, gradually giving light as they develop; but keep them 
shaded from the sun. In storing pips for the Winter keep them in a 
frame, with a northern exposure, so that rapid thawing and freezing 
may be obviated. There are double flowered and variegated-leaved 
forms; all of them are desirable for half-shaded places in the open border. 

CRINUM— The tender species are not much grown indoors, but there 
are several which are useful for the hardy border. One which gives 
much satisfaction in Washington, and which is perfectly hardy, is named 
C. longifolium. The flowers are tinged with rose. There is a white- 
flowered form. Nearly every flower will set seeds which are very large 
and irregular in shape. They should be sown as soon as ripe, as after 
falling to the ground a little moisture will cause them to germinate in a 
few days. Sow the seeds 2 inches apart in a seed pan; keep in a frame, 
and plant out without potting off in Spring. 

C. Powellii is a hybrid between C. longifolium and C. Moorei. It 
thrives in Washington with slight protection in Winter. C. Moorei is 
also hardy when planted in warm soils and slightly protected. In large 



84 BULBOUS PLANTS. 

conservatories C. giganteum should be grown if only for the foliage. 
The leaves are several feet ia length, fully 6 inches broad in adult speci- 
mens, and of a bright green color. The flowers are pure white and 
sweet smelling, produced at irregular intervals. 

EUCHARIS AMAZONICA— The Amazon Lilies have long been popular 
stove bulbous plants, their large, pure whiteflowers making them favor- 
ites wherever grown. To the florist who does a general trade this is a 
paying plant when properly grown in moderately large quantities. 
Their culture seems a trifle difficult to many, but this idea has arisen 
through trying to grow them under adverse conditions. They are plants 
which delight in a warm, moist atmosphere, shaded from strong sun- 
shine. The temperature should never fall below 60 degrees, and it 
should only be allowed to get in the neighborhood of that figure during 
cold weather. The plants cannot be properly grown after the manner 
of most bulbous subjects which florists handle, such as Liliums, Richar- 
dias, Gladioli, Tulips, etc.; that is, potting them up at a certain time 
to have them in bloom at a given date. Their culture has not been 
brought down to such a fine point because their nature does not permit 
of it. They can be grown either with or without a short period of rest 
in the Fall months. I prefer to keep them growing all the time; but to 
do this successfully the roots must have close attention. From the 
nature of the compost in which they grow it will become sodden if extra 
precautions are not taken in the way of providing good drainage, also 
in mixing with the soil a goodly quantity of broken charcoal to keep 
the mass porous. The principal ingredients should consist of loam two 
parts, leaf mould one, a fourth to consist of rough sand and well-rotted 
cow manure. There are three kinds in general cultivation — E. grandi- 
flora, E. Candida and E. Sanderiana. The first is the best known of the 
three, and the most profitable to grow, as the individual flowers are 
larger and more of them are produced on a stalk. They are grown in 
pots, tubs, or on benches. 1 prefer the first two methods, as the plants 
can be more easily handled than when on benches. A good-sized clump 
can be kept in a 10 or 12-inch pot for a good many years by periodical 
examinations of the drainage, the decomposed soil removed from 
around the ball with the aid of the hose, and a mixture of loam and 
bone meal dusted over it. Put back in the pot and give a good top- 
dressing. Clumps treated in this way have flowered with me three and 
four times in a year regularly for 12 years. 

FORCING BULBS, such as Tulips, Hyacinths (Roman) and Narcissus, 
are put in shallow boxes for forcing. The bulbs are inserted quite close 
together, if of the poorer grades; but if they are the largest sizes a little 
more room should be allowed for the development of the flowers. The 
soil used is generally old material from benches in which Roses or Car- 
nations have been growing. In preparing bulbs for forcing the princi- 
pal point to be borne in mind is that they must make roots before being 
put in heat. A place should be set apart for the boxes, where they may 
be covered with about 8 inches of sifted ashes. On the approach of 
freezing weather the ashes may be kept in a condition so that the boxes 
may be removed when wanted, by covering with rough stable litter; or, 



BULBOUS PLANTS. 85 

when grown in large quantities, a bulb house should be provided. In 
this structure light should be excluded and the roof thick enough to 
keep out frost. In a well-regulated house the bulbs remain in fine con- 
dition. They may be kept almost dormant for several weeks and be 
forced into bloom in less time than those from the open ground. Paper 
White Narcissus and Roman Hyacinths may easily be had in bloom in 
November, and Due Van Thol Tulips by Christmas; but to insure these 
results early rooting must be looked after. 

ROHAN HYACINTHS IN PANS— Roman Hyacinths are usually grown 
in boxes, and when about to flower, or even when in bloom, they are 
taken out of the box and placed in shallow pans or pots, new soil added 
and perhaps covered with fern moss before being exposed for sale. This 
method does not turnout satisfactorily to the buyer, the flowers lasting 
but for a short period. By employing the shallow flats in common use 
for Ferns, Roman Hyacinths may be grown to even greater perfection in 
sphagnum moss than where soil is used. A little well-rotted manure 
among the moss does good. Fill up to near the brim with moss, place 
the bulbs on this as thick as they will go, if the receptacle is small; give 
more room, if large; fill in intervening spaces with moss, saturate the 
moss, and to make roots, keep in a dark, cool place. As soon as a suffi- 
cient quantity of roots are made bulbs are forced into flower in a few 
days and come in very handily about Christmas, when other flowering 
plants are scarce. While making roots they should occupy a cool frame, 
and be covered with damp leaves. 

Outdoor Bulbs— Hyacinth and Tulip bulbs flowered out-of-doors 
may be made to last more than one season if the bulbs are given a little 
care. By the end of May, when the bulbs have to be lifted to make room 
for Summer plants, the foliage will indicate maturity by turning yellow. 
After lifting the bulbs should not be allowed to lie around with the old 
leaves rotting over them, sometimes wet, at other times dry, according 
to the weather. Spread them out on boards in an airy shed, so that 
they may have a chance to get plump and dry; after which they should 
be cleaned, stored, and when the time arrives replanted for outdoor 
ornamentation. Low-growing hardy Spring bulbs, such as Galanthus 
(Snow T drop), Crocus, |Scilla prcecox, Tecophilaea cyaneo-crocea, Triteleia 
uniflora, Puschkinia and Chionodoxa, should be planted as soon as they 
are procured from the dealers. If put in late they bloom late and their 
foliage does not get time to ripen before the advent of real warm 
weather, and the bulb for the following season is next to useless. None 
of the latter is much used by florists for pot culture. In planting out 
they should, if possible, be given permanent positions. Sometimes Fall 
and Winter weather is favorable to premature growth of the tops, and 
because of this they should be protected from rapid thawing and freez- 
ing by a covering of an inch or two of half-decayed leaves or manure 
put on after freezing weather arrives. 

FREESIAS which are wanted to bloom by the end of the year should 
be potted or boxed as soon as they can be procured from the dealers. 
Plunge the pots in ashes, in a frame, where strong sunshine won't keep 
the surface of the soil too warm and dry. They must not be covered 



86 BULBOUS PLANTS. 

over as other bulbs are after potting, as the leaves are thin and tender 
and must develop to a considerable extent before the flower stems make 
their appearance. 

GLADIOLUS— Bulbs of these used to be imported; they are now- 
grown in great quantities in this country. Most of the kinds grown are 
of hybrid origin, and not a few of them have originated in America. 
With florists the plants are cultivated for the sake of the flowers. The first 
crop is usually grown indoors by planting the bulbs during January or 
February. They are usually planted among Carnations, the long nar- 
row leaves of the Gladiolus giving but little shade. For outdoor crops 
they may be planted in batches from April onward. To have the 
bulbs in good condition for use the following year the ground should be 
well mulched as soon as the grow ths are well above ground. Cultivat- 
ing is then not necessary and the weeds likely to smother the plants 
may be removed by hand. 

GLORIOSA SUPERBA and G. PLANTII are ornamental flowered lilia- 
ceous plants, very suitable for our hot Summers. The plants have a 
vine-like growth and must be supported by sticks. They are servicea- 
ble for the embellishment of greenhouses during Summer. In the District 
of Columbia they do well out-of- doors. To raise bulbs sow a few seeds 
in a 6-inch pot and allow them to remain in their seed pots for the Sum- 
mer, gradually drying off as the foliage turns yellow. Store with Glox- 
inias during the Winter. Each plant may be potted off singly the fol- 
lowing Spring. 

H>6MANTHUS— A genus principally of South African bulbous plants; 
they are all of easy culture. Those which annually lose their foliage 
produce their beautiful flowers before the new leaves make their appear- 
ance. To develop the foliage the plants may be treated much in the 
same way as Amaryllis; that is, planted out in a sunny border, mulched 
with half-rotted manure and given water during dry weather. They 
are good plants, but only useful for general collections. 

IRIS— Some of the tuberous rooted species are very early in bloom- 
ing, and only need a short term in the greenhouse to bring them into 
flower after the end of January. I. filifolia and I. Histrio are two of the 
best. The tubers should be procured as early as possible, and put in 
shallow boxes to root. The surfaces should be covered while in the 
frame with a thin layer of sphagnum moss. I. reticulata, a species 
which blooms in the open border, very often before the snow is gone, is 
valuable for forcing in 5-inch pots. The flowers are dwarf and not very 
large; the foliage is of a grassy nature. From four to six tubers should 
be put in each pot. The flowers of this species, which are deep purple, 
have a fragrance much resembling that of the common Violet. There 
is a lighter colored form called I. r. Krelagei; this, however, has no 
fragrance. 

LACHEN ALIAS— By the 1st of August Lachenalia bulbs should be 
knocked out of the pots, the sizes sorted and the largest put, say four 
together, in a 5-inch pot, and plunged for the time being among ashes in 
a frame. The smaller bulbs should be potted or boxed for growing on. 



BULBOUS PLANTS. 87 

These bulbs are not common and should be more grown, not for cut- 
ting, as the flowers are not suitable for this purpose, but for pot plants. 
The leaves, even by themselves, are very attractive, being broad, rich 
green, and spotted with brown. The flowers are greenish red and yel- 
low, arranged in spikes. Small bulbs should always be saved and 
grown on, as they increase in size quickly under cultivation. 

LILIUM — Many species and varieties of Liliums are grown for the 
ornamentation of the border in Summer and Autumn. As a rule, they 
prefer light and well-manured soil, and a position partially shaded from 
the sun. To lessen the necessity of frequent watering the plants should 
be well mulched after the growths are a few inches high. The species 
used so much for forcing in pots is known as L. longiflorum, a native of 
China and Japan. There are at least two kinds; the best known 
and quickest in blooming being L. Harrisii, said to have come originally 
from Japan, but largely grown in Bermuda, whence the bulbs are 
obtained. The bulbs should be potted as soon as procurable, and 
plunged in a frame with a bottom of sifted cinders; the plunging mate- 
rial should be cocoanut fiber, leaf soil, or thoroughly-rotted hotbed 
material. This precaution works well in maintaining an equal state of 
moisture in the pots without the necessity of frequent waterings. To 
prevent the sun drying the surface of the soil enough covering of loose 
stable litter should be given. Eemove the plants indoors on the 
approach of severe weather. For early forcing the pots may be placed 
directly on the bench of a cool greenhouse, and precautions taken to 
keep the soil in an equably moist state, avoiding either extreme. These 
bulbs should also be covered with some light material to prevent bak- 
ing. The pots used should be small enough, so as to provide for a shift 
into 6 and 7-inch sizes as the plants require it. Much better results are 
thus obtained, because roots are formed on the stem of the Lily above 
the bulb, and often above the soil, when they are planted directly into 
their flowering pots, and especially when they are planted with the tops 
of the bulbs level with the surface of the soil. So it will be seen that a 
shift given after the plants have made considerable headway will work 
advantageously in supplying new rooting material, not only for the 
roots already formed in the soil, but for those forming on the stem 
above it. In potting put one large piece of broken pot, concave side 
down, over the hole in the bottom, and over this some half-decayed 
leaves, not moss, as the latter retains too much moisture at the bottom 
of the pot; ram the soil moderately firm. The soil should have good, 
fibry loam, enriched to about one-fifth of its bulk with well-rotted stable 
manure; this, with the addition of some broken-up charcoal, is as much 
for the purpose of keeping the soil open as for feeding. The Aphis is one 
of the worst enemies of the Lily when grown indoors, and the condi- 
tions favorable to its increase should be guarded against— keeping the 
plants in perfect health is the best preventive measure. Some of the 
things to be obviated are sudden changes in temperature, chilly 
drafts, soil too wet or too dry. Fumigating or vaporizing with 
tobacco must frequently be resorted to whenever the Aphis makes its 
appearance. 



88 BULBOUS PLANTS. 

Preparing Bulbs for Potting— If , as is frequently the case, the bulbs on 
arrival are a trifle shrivelled, do not pot them immediately, as they are 
apt to get a set-back by so doing. The treatment they get should be 
directed to restore the bulb as soon as possible to that condition in 
which it was when taken from the soil. This can be done in the follow- 
ing manner much more quickly and with better results than when potted 
immediately into soil. A cool, moist propagating house is an ideal 
place for the operation. Place the bulbs as close together as they will 
go in the moderately wet sand. They may be either covered with sand 
for a day or two, without wetting, or covered with papers during the 
driest and hottest part of the day, until they get plump and fresh-look- 
ing, taking care that they be potted just before the roots break through, 
for if potting be done after the roots make their appearance more harm 
than good will result. Soil should be used which contains enough mois- 
ture, so that on first watering it will not be necessary to give a very 
large dose. The pots used should be large enough to accommodate the 
bulb and no more. A later shifting should be given as the plants require 
it. A mass of roots will be developed just above the pot when consider- 
able growth has been made; these when covered with soil in the second 
potting will be found to be valuable feeding roots. 

L. Speciosum— At the season when Roses and Carnations are 
scarce, both in and out of the greenhouse, a grand substitute may be 
found in the Japanese lily, Lilium speciosum. It is one of the best, if 
not the very best, so far as graceful structure of flower is concerned, 
being far ahead of the popular variety of L. longiflorum in this respect. 
L. speciosum was introduced from Japan over 60 years ago; it was 
then erroneously called Lilium lancifolium, a name which still sticks to 
it in many places. It may be stated for guidance in the cultivation of 
this Lily that it is perfectly hardy here in well-drained light soil, that 
is, on raised rock-work; but unless the bulbs are lifted at intervals of 
two years and immediately replanted in freshly worked soil, with 
manure added, they get smaller and smaller, ultimately dying from 
starvation. For pot cultivation and to bloom early in Summer Lilium 
speciosum it is one of the easiest to manage, but less trouble will 
be experienced by planting out in raised beds, giving the necessary 
protection from severe and late frosts in localities where those con- 
ditions exist. The species is extremely variable in form and color of 
flower, color of stems, foliage, buds, and even in the anthers. Among 
the whites, L. s. Krsetzeri, imported direct from Japan, is one of the 
finest. This variety has greenish stripes down each of the six divisions 
of the flower; the anthers are brown. L. s. album-no vum has larger 
flowers, with bright yellow anthers. L. s. album, grown in Europe, 
gradually becomes tinged with pink. L. s. punctatum has white flowers 
dotted with pink. The principal pink or carmine forms are L. roseum 
rubrum; others are Liliums Schrymakersi, cruentum, purpureum, pur- 
puratum, magnificum and superbum. The natural period for blooming 
outside, according to locality, is from the end of July till September. A 
variety called L. Melpomene, which sometimes gets to be 6 feet high, 
was raised by the late Mr. Hovey, of Boston, many years ago. It was 



BULBOUS PLANTS. 89 

Baid to be a hybrid between Liliums speciosum and auratum ; it has 
larger flowers than any of the varieties of L. speciosum, but, with us, it 
is very unreliable when left outside, going off suddenly without any 
apparent cause, while both Liliums speciosum and auratum alongside 
do well. L. longiflorum is perfectly hardy, and with L. candidum 
should be grown for Summer flowers. L. auratum is often unsatisfac- 
tory, failing to start well from imported bulbs. It is of little service as 
a cut flower, but probably the finest species of the genus for the open 
border. As many as 50 large flowers are frequently produced in a 
season from a single bulb. 

NARCISSUS POETICUS is the most useful of the late blooming species 
for outdoor cutting. It should be given a permanent place in the open 
ground, as it usually does not deteriorate, but in suitable soil rather the 
reverse. The bulbs are procurable in large quantites at low rates, and 
it ought to be taken into consideration that they flower yearly in the 
open field and increase to such an extent under fairly good treatment, 
that the bulbs which fill a given space this year will in four years fill six 
times the space. N. p. recurvus is the best of the single forms, but other 
kinds are sometimes sold for it. The double form is a large and hand- 
some flower, of which we see too little. They should be lifted every 
second or third year, as soon as the bulbs are ripe (where cultivated on 
a large scale they are lifted every season, ) the sizes sorted and immedi- 
ately replanted, the ground having been well enriched with manure. 
Their usual period of flowering here is from May 10th to the 20th. In 
well-sheltered, sunny positions they flower much earlier. In order to 
utilize space, if the rows are wide enough, stock plants of various things 
can be planted between them. 

OXALIS— The main batch of Oxalis for Winter flowering should be 
potted up by the middle of October. Put a single bulb in each pot, 
using 3-inch pots to start with, and shifting on the plants as they need 
it until they are in 5 or 6-inch pots, in which they bloom. When several 
bulbs are potted together in a large pot, at first they are certain to pro- 
duce foliage in abundance and but few flowers. By the middle of June 
the bulbs will be dried off; this is accomplished by withholding water and 
turning the pots on their sides. Be careful to place them so that the soil 
is exposed to view, as mice are exceedingly fond of the bulbs. All of the 
kinds grown for their flowers in Winter are very prolific in the produc- 
tion of new bulbs, that is, if sufficient root room has been afforded for 
their perfect development during the growing period. Home-grown 
bulbs are very superior to those imported. Some of the best kinds are 
O. cernua, yellow; O. Bowiei, O. gigantea and O. hirta-rosacea, pink; 
O. versicolor and O. lactiflora, white. O. rubricaulis is desirable not so 
much for the flowers as for the highly colored red stems. O. Bowiei and 
O. versicolor are well suited for baskets, for hanging in conservatories. 
The last named requires very little heat. 

POLIANTHES TUBEROSA (Tuberose)— These are grown largely for 
supplying white flowers during Summer and Fall months. They may 



90 BULBOUS PLANTS. 

be put in the ground after danger from frost is past, and at later inter- 
vals to give a succession of flowers. The finest bulbs are supplied so 
cheaply by American growers, that it does not pay to propagate in 
small quantities. 

RICHARDIA ^THIOPICA (Calla) which are out of service should 
have the water gradually withheld from them, and as the foliage dies 
down turn the pots on their sides and leave them in this position until 
the time arrives for starting into growth in Autumn. The pots should 
not be put in a place where the sun will have full play on them. Jadoo 
potted tubers may as well have another season without disturbance, 
as this material does not seem to decompose rapidly; liquid manure 
would then, of course, have to be applied regularly. For increasing the 
stock of the yellow varieties they should be grown all Summer; plant 
them outside in rich, well-drained situations where they can be watered 
abundantly when occasion requires it. In Winter they need a mini- 
mum temperature of 60 degrees. By the middle of September the 
largest sizes of R. aethiopica should be in 6 and 7-inch pots and placed 
in an open frame. Have the sash handy so that they may be protec- 
ted during wet weather. With a good watering at first they won't 
need much moisture till good roots are formed. At least one-third of 
rotted cow manure should be in the soil. 

TRILLIUM— About a dozen species of these beautiful and interesting 
native plants are in cultivation. T. grandiflorum is the one most com- 
monly grown, owing to its very large white flowers. Its culture is of 
the simplest description, requiring a half-shaded position with abun- 
dance of vegetable humus in the soil. It is sometimes grown in pots for 
early forcing, for which purpose it is well adapted. The rhizomes should 
be potted as soon as the plants are at rest, late in Summer, and plunged 
in a cool frame until wanted. With very little heat they will flower 
several weeks in advance of their usual time. 

VALLOTA PURPUREA— A very useful plant, either for the greenhouse 
or the window garden, but not of much service to the florist, as it 
flowers at a period when the demand for cut flowers is not very great. 
As the bulbs will last in the same pots for several years, the drainage 
should be carefully arranged, and the soil mixed with crushed bone. 
During growth occasional waterings with manure should be given. 
The flowers are reddish scarlet, severalinan umbel; in appearance some- 
what like those of an Amaryllis. The foliage is evergreen, but during 
the resting season the supply of water should be curtailed. 

Propagation— The Vallota has a very curious method of making 
young plants which I do not remember to have seen described any- 
where. These young plants are produced to such an extent that the 
process tends to curtail the flowering propensities of the larger bulbs if 
attention be not given in the matter of removing them. In course of 
time they form two colonies, one on each side of the parent bulb. The 
of the leaves forming the bulb have each a small bud-like growth 



BULBOUS PLANTS. 91 

a considerable distance from the base or disc, but attached to the disc 
by a root-like formation which continues active^ after the swollen base 
of the leaf is dead, in supplying nutriment to the young bulb until it 
sends out roots. When this little root-like process is of no further use it 
gradually shrivels up. Afterward the young bulbs grow apace and rob 
the soil of the nourishment intended for the parent bulb. This provision 
evidently shows that the Vallota naturally grows deep in the soil and 
is intended to raise the bulblets near to the surface before taking root. 
These bulblets, unless intended for increasing the stock, should be 
removed as soon as they make their appearance above the soil. 



92 



Ornamental Grasses* 



ANDROPOGON SCH/ENANTHUS (Lemon Grass)— The leaves of this 
plant when bruised emit a fragrance much resembling that of the Lemon 
Verbena. It is a tender evergreen. When planted out in Summer the 
growth is very rapid even in dry soils. As a pot plant it has a very 
ornamental appearance, and stands well in a dwelling house. It is prop- 
agated by division at any time of the year. The pieces should be 
placed in wet sand for a few days previous to potting to encourage new 
roots to form. 

ARUNDO DONAX— The tallest of our herbaceous grasses, growing 
under favorable conditions to a height of 25 feet; flowers late in Sum- 
mer. A very ornamental plant for the centers of large beds, or for iso- 
lated groups on wide borders or lawns. As it increases very rapidly at 
the root the rhizome-like growth may be divided just as the new shoots 
make their appearance above the soil; these, when heeled in, may be 
transplanted at any time. 

A. D. variegata grows only about half the height of the green one— 
an exceedingly desirable plant for the hardy border. To propagate, 
take the ripe stems and lay them in damp moss or sand; from each 
joint one or more buds will start into growth and ultimately take root. 
These young plants, when of sufficient size, may be detached from the 
parent stem and put in small pots. 

BAMBUSA (Bamboo)— There are one or two species grown in green- 
houses and several hardy ones. B. arundinacea will grow 60 feet high 
in a single season. It is useful for roomy structures where quick effects 
are wanted. B. aurea is perfectly hardy in Washington, D. C. The 
growths will reach a height of 15 feet. B. striata is grown indoors in 
Winter. The plants will thrive a long time with limited root accommo- 
dation. B. virminalis, B. chrysantha, B. punctata, B. mitis and B. 
Marliacea sometimes stand the Winter in the open border without losing 
their foliage. B. Fortunei variegata should never be placed where it 
will crowd other plants, as it spreads rapidly and is difficult to eradi- 
cate. Propagation is best effected by division. The pieces should be 
started into growth among sand, in a close cool frame, potting off the 
rarer kinds when a few new roots have been made. 

CYPERUS ALTERNIFOLIUS is useful either as a house plant or for plant- 
ing out in Summer. Its propagation is much quicker accomplished by 
leaves than from seed in the following manner: Get a piece of zinc, or as 
many pieces as may be wanted, of a size say, 2 feet square; turn up the 
sides 3 inches; beat the sides forming the corners together and bend them 



ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 93 

to one side so as to hold water, fill with sand and saturate with water. 
Get some mature growths, cut off the stalk and shorten the leaves; in- 
sert in the sand and keep thoroughly wet. In a warm house they will 
send up numerous rooted growths in a short time, which, as they require 
ir, should be potted and grown on. Young plants such as these can very 
easily be divided. I haven't had much success with the variegated form 
propagated in this way ; it is apt to come green. Division suits it better. 

DACTYLIS GOLnERATA VARIEGATA— The species grows in waste 
places in the Eastern States. The green-leaved plants are weedy in 
growth, very floriferous and are never grown in gardens. The varie- 
gated form seldom produces many flowers, and these, when they appear, 
should be removed. It is one of our best low-growing variegated 
grasses, much used in some places for bedding. It is readily propagated 
by division. 

ELYilUS QLAUCUS— A very ornamental species with bluish green 
leaves finely striated on the upper surfaces. It reaches a height of 
about 2 feet. The habit is inclined to be spreading. In early Spring 
the growth is about a foot high when most other ornamental grasses 
are just showing. Propagated by division. 

ERiANTHUS RAVENNA— This species comes next in size to the 
Arundo, frequently growing 10 feet high. The growths are stout, end- 
ing with very ornamental flowers, which, if taken in a young state and 
dried-in the sun, are quite as showy as those of the Pampas plumes. 
The plants produce seeds freely; they should be sown in Autumn and 
wintered in a cool house. The plant is thoroughly hardy in the District 
of Columbia. 

EULALIA (Miscanthus)— The variegated forms of E. japonica are 
more frequently used than any other ornamental grasses. As isolated 
specimens they grow into very symmetrical subjects, the outer leaves of 
the clump drooping and almost reaching the ground. There are three 
kinds usually cultivated— Eulalia japonica foliis-striatus, E. j. zebrina 
and E. univittata. The last named is much more dwarf than the others, 
the leaves narrow with a whitish stripe down the middle. They are 
natives of Japan. Propagation is effected by division of the crowns, 
and should be done just as the plants are starting into growth. Old 
clumps will have to be broken up with the aid of a mattock or axe. 
They may be divided into pieces small enough to go in a 3-inch pot and 
plunged in a frame among ashes, or they may be heeled among sand in 
a frame for a couple of weeks or more before potting. They should in 
any case be kept close for a few days after being divided, in order to 
start fresh roots. 

FESTUCA GLAUCA grows only a few inches high, the foliage is of a 
bluish green color. It may be divided and replanted during March or 
April. 

QYNERIUn ARGENTEUM (The Pampas Grass)— During the exception- 
ally severe Winter of 1898-1899 we did not lose a single plant of any 
of the forms of the Pampas Grasses. None of the plants was protected 



94 ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 

by the usual method of boxes or barrels with the ends knocked out, 
placed over the plants and filled with leaves or straw. Propagation 
from seed is the usual method, but division of the old plants will be 
found more satisfactory. Dig up a large clump in the Fall; chop it up 
into pieces small enough to go easily into 6-inch pots. Use stiff loam 
and pot firmly, standing the plants under benches; water occasionally 
until the beginning of February, when the plants should be removed 
from the pots and divided up into the smallest pieces, saving the new 
roots as much as possible. Shorten the leaves back to half their length 
and put in the sand bed for a couple of weeks to start fresh roots; then 
place in 3 or 4-inch pots, and they will form well-furnished plants in a 
short time. 

PANICUM VARIEGATUM— A useful little warm house plant, having 
leaves striped with white and pink. It will grow in shade or sun, and 
is used chiefly for hanging over the sides of baskets, vases and boxes. 
Propagated from cuttings in March. The correct name is Oplismenus 
Burmanni variegatus. 

PAPYRUS ANTIQUORUM— The Papyrus, after being lifted from its 
Summer quarters, where the growths made are usually very strong, fre- 
quently gets into a half sickly state during the Winter months, from 
which it takes it,some time to recuperate after being replanted outside. 
In Winter the growths are grassy and spindling. By the way, I doubt 
very much if the true Cyperus Papyrus is in common cultivation, the 
one generally grown under that name being an entirely different species. 
However, that is a small matter, as the one commonly grown under 
the name of Cyperus Papyrus answers the purpose for which it is used, 
quite as well, if not better, than the true species. If the old plants are 
taken in hand some time in January, and split up into the smallest 
pieces and put in the sand bed of a warm house, they will in a few days 
push out fine, healthy roots, and when potted in a mixture of equal 
parts of moss, sand and manure, will grow very vigorously and will be 
in splendid trim for the planting out season. If it is desired to increase 
the stock the young plants, after being in the pots for a few weeks, can 
be re-divided and the operation of rooting gone through as at first. In 
the absence of a propagating bench a box of sand placed on the hot 
water pipes answers the same purpose. 

PENNISETUM LONGISTYLUM— Perhaps the finest of our dwarf 
grasses, which are grown principally on account of the very ornamental 
character of the flowers. It is usually treated as a half-hardy annual, 
owing to its liability to get Winter-killed. It sometimes survives the 
Winters in the District of Columbia, but should always be treated as a 
tender subject. Plants raised annually from seeds are satisfactory, if 
sown early; but old plants, divided up will give larger pieces, start into 
bloom earlier and do not take so much attention as seedlings. The old 
plants are wintered anywhere out of the reach of frost. About the 
beginning of February cut off the old leaves to within 6 inches of the 
crowns; divide into small pieces, trim the roots so that they will ulti- 
mately go into 3 or 4-inch pots; place the pieces thickly together in 



ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 95 

boxes of sandy soil and keep in greenhouse. Pot as soon as the new 
roots have started. They may be removed to a cool frame long before 
the soft bedding material demands all the indoor space. There are 
several other annual and perennial species grown; none, however, is as 
desirable as the above. 

SACCHARUM OFFICINARUM VIOLACEUM— A variety of the sugar 
cane with violet or plum colored leaves and stems; useful for sub-tropi- 
cal bedding. It is easily increased by cutting the stems into pieces, with 
two joints to each piece, and placing them on the sand bed of a warm 
house at almost any time. Numerous shoots are produced at the joints, 
and they make plants rapidly. 

ST1PA PENNATA (Feather Grass)— An old favorite in gardens. The 
leaves are long and narrow. The flowers are arranged in long, arching 
spikes, presenting a very delicate appearance. Propagated in Spring by 
division, and from seed. There are over a hundred species, only a few 
of which are in cultivation. 

UNIOLA LATIFOLIA is a native species which makes an attractive 
border plant, growing usually from 2 to 3 feet high. The leaves are 
broad and arching, about an inch wide; the spikelets are drooping on 
long pedicels. This grass starts early into growth and is one of the 
easiest to propagate by division. 



96 



Water Plants. 



LIMNOCHARIS HUMBOLDTII— Useful for planting where the water Is 
only a few inches deep. The flowers are yellow, about 2 inches in diame- 
ter. The plants must be wintered indoors. When grown in shallow 
water during Summer it is not necessary to keep them under water dur- 
ing Winter. All that is required is to prepare a box of moist loam; put 
the plants in this, in rows, close together; give a good watering and 
stand the box under the bench of a warm house where it will get a fair 
amount of light. They will make a new set of short-stalked leaves ere 
long, and remain in good condition for planting out in the Spring. 

NELUHBIUn— There are at least two species, N. speciosum and N. 
luteum, besides several forms of the first named, differing from it princi- 
pally in the colors of the flowers. N. speciosum and its forms are the best 
for growing in ponds and fountain basins. During Summer they make 
very long underground stems, and, on the approach of cold weather, 
form thick resting tubers at the ends of which are one or more dormant 
buds. Nelumbiums need an abundance of rich soil for their perfect 
development. When grown in a cramped space comparatively few 
flowers are produced. The flowers are from 8 inches to a foot across — 
pink, white, and yellow, in color. They are borne on long, rigid stems 
well out of the water. The leaves have an exceedingly ornamental 
appearance, being peltate and standing a considerable distance out of 
the water. The first few leaves float on the surface, but as the shoots 
gain strength they rise 2 and 3 feet above the surface. 

Raising Plants from Seed— This is a very certain method of increas- 
ing the supply of plants, not only for planting out the same season, but 
as a convenient form in which to keep plants for sale. The seeds have a 
very hard covering, and before putting them in water this covering 
should be pierced either with the point of a knife or by the aid of a* file. 
A very small opening will suffice in causing them to germinate in a few 
days. About the end of March sow fairly thick in a shallow seed pan, 
sinking it about 6 inches beneath the surface in a warm tank. After the 
seedlings have made the first leaf put each in a 3-inch pot. They can be 
planted out of these; or, if necessary, shift into 6-inch pots; in these 
they will pass the Summer and in the Fall form one or more small 
tubers. 

Starting Dormant Tubers— Attempts to start the dormant tubers of 
Nelumbiums after removal often result in disappointment. The opera- 
tion of digging them up and replanting has an effect upon them sufficient 
to prevent their breaking into growth with the same certainty that 
would have followed had they been left undisturbed. Especially is it a 
risky performance to plant out the tubers early in the season. I find it 



WATER PLANTS. 97 

a very certain method to let the tubers float on the surface of an indoor 
tank, or tub, on which the sun has full play; they soon begin to form 
roots quite freely, and when put out by the middle of May or beginning 
of June, according to locality, they continue to grow very luxuriantly, 
making even greater progress than those whicTi have succeeded in start- 
ng outside. 

Insect Enemies are not numerous; there is one, however, which 
causes great trouble, especially in the vicinity of long-established colo- 
nies of the American species, N. luteum. This insect deposits its eggs on 
the leaves, and on hatching the caterpillars attack the outer edges prin- 
cipally, rolling the leaves inward as they develop. Another favorite 
point of attack is the stem of the leaf. Beginning at the top the cater- 
pillar will eat out the interior part for several inches. In large collec- 
tions it is a serious matter to attempt to combat this pest, but where 
there are only a few plants hand picking will prevent them doing much 
injury. 

NYMPH^EA— When anything like fair treatment is given most of the 
species and varieties of Nymp^iseas grow very rapidly and flower abun- 
dantly. There are only one or two kinds which are backward in this 
respect, and unfortunately they are the most handsome ones of the 
genus. N. gigantea, a light blue-flowered species from Australia, and 
the rose colored variety of N. alba, are the principal offenders. The 
former can be managed but not with tne same treatment as is given the 
other blue-flowered species. With N. alba rosea the trouble seems to be 
caused by our hot Summers. However, there are numerous other species 
and many hybrid forms which require much less attention than the 
majority of other classes of plants to bring them to perfection. There 
are in the neighborhood of 40 kinds to choose from. Of these about 
half are tender; the others will stand the Winters successfully if the 
crowns are low enough in the water to be out of the reach of frost. Or 
if they be grown in places from which the water has to be drawn in 
Winter, the plants may be covered with some protecting material. But 
the question of just how much cold the various kinds will stand has not 
been ascertained. I have had tubs of several kinds frozen solid for six 
weeks at a time without injuring the plants in the least. 

The tender kinds are divided into two well defined sections— day 
blooming and night blooming. In the day blooming section we have N. 
gracilis, white; N. scutifolia, N. stellata, with numerous forms ranging 
from colors almost blue to deep rose; N. pulcherrima produces flowers 
exactly similar to those from plants raised from seed of N. gracilis, 
which have evidently been fertilized by pollen from forms of N. stellata; 
N. elegans, a Mexican species, has purplish flowers; N. gigantea, a light 
blue-flowered species from Australia, has the largest blooms of all, 
sometimes attaining a diameter of 16 inches. 

The Night=blooming section is represented by about ten kinds, the 
best known of which are: N. Lotus, N. rubra, N. devoniensis, N. dentata 
and N. Sturtevantii. Most of the other sorts are cross-bred forms be- 
tween N. Lotus and N. Sturtevantii. All of the tender kinds have thick 



98 WATER PLANTS. 

swollen root-stocks, while the hardy species, with one or two exceptions, 
have thick, fleshy rhizomes. 

Among the hardy sorts N. odorata is the one most commonly grown 
for its flowers. A form of this is known as the Cape Cod Water Lily; N. 
odorata rosea has bright rose-colored flowers; N. o. sulphurea, N. 
Marliacea chromatella and N. tuberosa flavescens have yellow flowers; 
N. Marliacea albida and N. alba are pure white. A new hybrid race of 
which N. Lay dekeri rosea is the best known, has several named kinds 
with rather odd colors, but they are less desirable than some of the bet- 
ter known varieties. They are, however, well suited for growing in 
tubs half filled with soil, and the remaining space with water. 

Soil— All of the species and varieties will thrive in loam two parts 
and one part half-rotted cow manure. Another good medium is formed 
by adding a 5-inch potful of bone meal to a bushel of loam. 

Starting Tubers Into Growth — The tubers of the tender Nymphaeas 
should be started not later than the beginning of April. Each tuber 
should be put in a 5-inch pot, using pure loam. The tuber may be 
covered with about an inch of soil and a further layer of half an inch 
of sand, and put in a tank of water at a temperature of from 65 to 70 
degrees. After a few leaves have been made the growth should be sepa- 
rated from the tuber and repotted, as this prevents numerous shoots 
developing when planted out and secures a strong single growth. This 
applies to all of the tender sorts. The tubers may be pushed back in the 
5-inch pots, where they will continue sending up fresh shoots; these, or 
as many as wanted, may be potted in 4-inch pots and allowed to go to 
rest in them. Tubers thus formed should be kept for stock purposes, 
instead of old plants. 

Summer Quarters— In this latitude it is safe to put out the tenderest 
kinds after the 10th of May. Each plant, whether grown in sunken 
tubs, boxes, or planted in the bottom of the pond, should have at least 
three bushels of prepared soil to grow them well. One foot beneath the 
surface is a safe distance; but they will thrive much deeper. 

Starting Hardy Nymphaeas— By the beginning of April any of the 
hardy Nymphseas, which it is necessary to increase or replant, should 
get attention before they make too much headway. In dividing up such 
kinds as N. helvola and the pink varieties of N. odorata with small rhi- 
zomes, such as N. odorata rosea and N. o. exquisita, or the small pieces 
of N. Marliacea chromatella, it is safest to start the pieces in pots so 
that they will make a few leaves before being transferred to their perma- 
nent quarters. Such kinds as N. alba, N. a. candidissima, N. Marliacea 
albida, N. M. rosea, N. M. carnea have very large rhizomes, and there is 
little danger but that they will give a good account of themselves after 
being divided and planted out. 

Wintering Tender Water Lilies— From the 15th to the end of October 
the tender Water Lilies should be taken indoors for the Winter. Where 
there are small plants or tubers of the tender day blooming species and 
varieties, such as N. zanzibarensis, its varieties as azurea and rosea, 
the Australian N. gigantea, N; ccerulea and N. scutifolia, let the old ones 



WATER PLANTS. 99 

go, as they are difficult to keep over the Winter, except in a large green- 
house tank. Small, dormant tubers of any of the above can be started 
in the Spring, and by careful manipulation they will give several plants 
each, which will afford as much, if not more, satisfaction than would 
the older plants. Another matter which should be kept in mind con- 
cerning the above kinds is that they do not form small tubers at the 
sides of the large ones made during the growing season. The reverse is 
the case with such species and forms as N. dentata, N. devoniensis, N. 
rubra, N. Sturtevantii, N. O'Marana, N. Columbiana, N. Deaniana, N. 
delicatissima and N. Smithiana. These are all tender night-blooming 
kinds and form tubers around the sides of the parent tuber or root- 
stock; they are very irregular in shape, not at all resembling the pear- 
shaped tuber of a young starved plant. After the display of flower is 
over for the Season, cut off the leaves close to the crown, and with a 
spade cut off the roots about 6 inches from the crown; lift the clump 
and put beneath the stage of a warm house. The central part will decay 
in a short time, and before this actually happens the tubers may be 
gathered and stored for the Winter. N. gracilis and N. pulcherrima, 
white and blue respectively, will keep easily, if the old root-stocks are 
saved, as they do not decay so easily as the other tender day bloomers. 
When it is necessary to keep old plants of the above-named day bloomers 
other than N. gracilis and N. pulcherrima, lift the smallest of the plants, 
save as many roots and leaves as possible, pot them and sink in a tank, 
the water of which does not fall below 50 degrees F. There are several 
j methods of keeping the small tubers of the tender Nymphseas over Win- 
w ter. Those from the night bloomers should not be removed in a hurry, 
. as the wound made by separating is apt to be slow in healing, and the 
riper the tubers when tne work is done the greater the success. They 
keep well in damp moss, on the floor of a warm house. If they are 
starved tubers, that is, of the pear-shaped form, there is little fear of 
decay setting in, for then there are no wounds to heal as in the case of 
detached tubers. They may be then kept dry, but warm. Probably 
the safest plan, and the one which I adopt, is to put each kind in a pot 
of sand and sink in a warm tank. 

Raising Hardy Kinds from Seeds— N. pygmgea seeds very freely, in 
fact, every flower may be depended upon to ripen a capsule; but if there 
is an overflow to the pond the seeds are very apt to get lost, as they 
float on the surface after being liberated from the capsule. If gathered 
before this takes place, and the pulpy material removed from around 
them, they may be thrown in a part of the pond where they are likely 
to germinate. N. caroliniensis, N. tuberosa, N. odorata and one or two 
of its varieties set seeds freely, but as they increase so easily from rhi- 
zomes there is little need of raising seedlings. Marliac's hybrids are 
evidently sterile, although the pollen in those I have tested is good. 
Some of these hybrids do not permit of division of the root-stocks, and 
the probable reason why they cannot be propagated in this country is, 
one of the parents of the hybrids being so difficult to grow here it is 
unavailable for the purpose of pollination. N. lutea and N. mexicana 
seed somewhat sparingly, but both kinds have two methods of resting 
during Winter, so that raising plants from seed need not be resorted to. 



100 WATER PLANTS. 

Victoria Regia— Of this there are two forms— V. R. Randii and V. 
R. Trickeri. The Victorias are grown as annuals, the seeds being 
sown about the beginning of January, and kept in water at a 
temperature of at least 80, degrees. The first leaves are grass-like, 
gradually assuming the peltate form. The young plants should be 
encouraged to make all the growth possible before being put out of 
doors. In this latitude we plant them out about May 20, and treat 
them in every respect like tender Nymphseas. Each plant should get at 
least a couple of cartloads of prepared soil, to have the plants at their 
best. V. Regia has leaves over 6 feet in diameter. The leaf of V. R. 
Randii is much less in diameter, but more turned up at the margins; 
that of V. R. Trickeri, In size, is intermediate between the two. 

Labels for Water Plants— Labels for pots under the surface of the 
water, if of the ordinary wooden kind, only remain in good condition 
for a short time, and then the writing becomes obliterated. With the 
constantly increasing number of Nymphaeas and Nelumbiums, one must 
be well acquainted with the names of the species and varieties to tell 
them by their leaves, but when in a dormant state it is impossible to 
tell some of the kinds from others. A simple method of getting around 
this difficulty is to have labels made of strips of sheet copper, with 
a number stamped across the top, the number to correspond with a 
numbered list of the species and varieties kept in a book. The numbers 
and names should also be written on a piece of board and nailed up 
where it may be conveniently referred to. These labels last for years, 
and may be used as often as necessary. In Water Lily ponds, whether 
the plants are labeled above water or not, those intended to be removed 
to their Winter quarters should have the name secured by nailing a strip 
of the copper along the top of a stout wooden label, with the number 
belonging to the kind punched on the copper. With copper and punches 
conveniently at hand no more time will be used than in writing an 
ordinary label. This method is a safe one also, where a permanent 
label is desired for preserving the names of outdoor vines, shrubs and 
trees. 

OUVIRANDRA FENESTRALIS— The lattice leaf plant of Madagascar. 
This unique subject thrives best when the leaves are near the surface of 
the water. The pots should be submerged from 4 to 6 inches. The 
temperature of the water should never be below 65 degrees, but it 
should be kept at least 10 degrees higher most of the time. A wide tub 
and one about 14 inches deep, will suffice for the plant's needs. The tub 
should be placed in the warmest part of the stove, and shaded from the 
sun at all seasons. It is not particular as to soil, growing in any ordi- 
nary potting mixture. Loam, sand and a little half-rotted manure, 
topped off with fine grand, produce good results. When in an evidently 
dormant state the plant will, no matter at what season, begin to send 
up new leaves when given a shift, or the ball reduced and fresh soil 
afforded. It's greatest enemy is the confervoid growths which cling to 
the leaves. To check these, keep the plant in total darkness for a few 
days. Propagation is by division, and from seeds. 



101 



Ferns and Lycopods* 



ADIANTUM (Maidenhair) is one of the most important genera of 
ferns, as it contains several of our most popular decorative plants. 
There are nearly a hundred known species; many of these are in cultiva- 
tion, besides numerous varieties and forms. There is great diversity of 
form in the fronds of different species. A. renif orme is simple and kidney 
shaped. Among others A. macrophyllum and A. peruvianum have the 
fronds simply pinnate. In the greater number of species the fronds are 
much branched. Where large collections of ferns are grown it would be 
a difficult task to select the most beautiful and interesting kinds, as this 
genus above all others does not possess a simple species but what is 
worthy of a place in the fernery. For decorative purposes A. cuneatum 
is more extensively grown than any other species. There are several 
well marked forms. A. c. gracillimum has the segments much smaller 
than in those of the type. A. c. mundulum is a dwarf garden form, well 
suited for using in fern dishes. A. c. variegatum has the pinnules faintly 
marked with creamy white. A.hispidulum (pubescens) is a species much 
used in a young state, as it can be got up in quantity very, readily. 
Plants in 2 and 3-inch pots raised from spores have a very different 
appearance from those which have reached the adult stage. A. cauda- 
tum and A. lunulatum are well suited for planting in hanging baskets. 
Young plants are produced at the ends of the fronds, and when planted 
out among rocks in a greenhouse they soon cover a large space. A. 
Capillus- Veneris is one of the hardiest of the genus, but it has a very 
wide geographical distribution. It is the most useful of all ferns for 
growing on damp greenhouse walls. There are numerous varieties, A. 
C.-V. imbricatum has very large pinnules; it is shy in producing spores, 
but is easily increased by division of the rhizomes in the latter part of 
March. A. tenerum makes beautiful specimens in 5-inch pots, but is a 
little tender for decorative work. Adiantum fronds will keep a much 
longer time after they are cut, if they be submerged in water for a few 
hours, than if used direct from the plant. Among the tall growing 
species A. trapeziforme is one of the most ornamental. It may frequently 
be met with in collections, and has fronds 3 to 4 feet long. A. t. 
pentadactylon is a well marked variety and should always be included 
in large collections; it stands well as a decorative plant. A. t. 
Sanctse Catherines is a dwarf variety, with the segments deeply cut. 
This species and its varieties are best increased by division of the 
crowns before starting into growth. 

Adiantum Farleyense— Success in growing this important com- 
mercial fern depends to a great extent on making a proper start with 
the small plants. It is labor lost in trying to make a healthy plant out 
of an unhealthy one, or from one which has got a set-back from some 



102 FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 

cause, unless they be knocked out of the pots and split up into small 
pieces— the smaller the better, provided there are a few small fronds 
attached to each piece and a probability of their making new roots. 
A. Farleyense does not produce spores as most kinds of ferns do. The 
reason is because it is not a species, but merely an unfertile variety of a 
species said to be the well known A. tenerum; consequently the only 
method of propagation lies in dividing the old plants. Some growers 
split the crowns and pot the growing points in thumb pots, placing 
them in a frame or close shaded house. This method is not always 
satisfactory, for unless the points have fairly good live roots to start 
with, or show signs of immediately making fresh ones, their struggle 
for existence is apt to be a pretty tough one. The first batch may be 
started about the end of January or first half of February. Old plants 
from which the fronds were cut earlier in the season, and which show 
little colonies of small fronds, are the best for the purpose. Wash every 
particle of soil from the roots, when it will be found there is a consider- 
able quantity of dead but hard, wiry rhizomes just beneath the surface 
of the soil. This material, if potted up with the pieces, hinders their 
growth and should be removed. Select only the rhizomes which have 
life in them and which have a frond, however small, or a piece of frond 
attached. The work of separation should be done with the aid of a 
sharp-pointed pair of scissors. Next put the pieces in a mixture of sand 
and moss, the latter rubbed through a No. 8 sieve; have the materials 
in equal parts. Water should be given very sparingly. To start the 
pieces into growth under the most favorable conditions they ought to 
be covered with glass until new roots and fronds push out. They may 
then be potted into 2-inch pots. 

Adiantums from Spores — A. cuneatum, A. pubescens and many other 
species vegetate very quickly from spores. The principal points to be 
observed are to have the soil free from the lower forms of plant life, such 
as mosses and liverworts. Sow the spores very thinly. Keep the pans 
in which they are sown shaded from the sun, and the pans covered with 
glass until the first fronds appear. During the process of germination 
the soil should not be watered from above, but by sinking the pans up 
to the rims in a pail of water. The spores will germinate in almost any 
kind of soil, but it should be somewhat porous and well drained. Sow 
in early Spring. 

Propagation by Division— A cuneatum and A. Roenbeckii are the two 
Maidenhair ferns most largely grown. These and their allied forms, 
which have become unsightly through cutting the fronds, on being re- 
peatedly used in decorations during the Winter season, should, while in 
a dormant state, have all the fronds cut off and be placed in the coolest 
house, where they should be allowed to rest as long as possible. The 
appearance of the young fronds will serve as an indication as to how the 
plants should be split up previous to repotting. Put the pieces in 5-inch 
pots. In potting use a loam which is apt to get hard after watering; 
this, with a little sand and leaf soil, will give good results. In starting 
the plants they will not suffer by having the house almost without 
shade. 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 103 

ASPIDIUM CAPENSE— Where a good, hardy, ornamental Fern is 
wanted for decorative purposes, one that is cheaply got up and not 
easily spoiled, A. capense will answer. From a well filled 6 or 8-inch 
pot several dozen plants may be raised within a few months. It is a 
greenhouse species requiring but little heat in Winter. 

ASPLENIUM— A very large genus. Only a very few of the species are 
extensively grown, but none of them is on the short list of the best dec- 
orative Ferns for florists. A. nidus, the Bird's-nest Fern, a native of 
Australia, is a striking species with very large simple leaves. It must 
have perfect drainage, rather rough and fibry soil, and a stove tempera- 
ture. 

CIBOTIUM (Dicksonia) SCHIEDEI— A low-growing Tree-Fern, native 
of Mexico. The fronds are of a light shade of green and very much divided, 
those of young plants arching gracefully. It stands well in a dry 
atmosphere. Young plants come readily from spores. Old plants some- 
times make numerous growths at the base of the stem. If these are 
taken off with a few roots attached and put in the sand bed for a few 
weeks they make specimen plants very quickly. 

CYRTOHIUM (Aspidium) FALCATUH, together with C. Fortunei and 
A. caryotideum, are among the hardiest of the Ferns used for decorat- 
ing, for which purpose they are much grown. The coolest house will do 
for the plants after they are of the requisite size. The fronds are simply 
pinnate, the pinnules resembling, to a certain extent, the leaf divisions 
of the fish-tail Palm, Caryota urens. Young plants are raised from 
spores. 

DAVALLIA— A genus of Ferns having scaly rhizomes which usually 
creep along the surface of the soil and send out roots from their under 
surfaces. Of the few species grown D. fijiensis plumosa is one of the 
most ornamental, having very finely divided fronds. It must be grown 
in a warm house. As it is not a deep rooting plant pans or baskets 
should be used according to the purpose for -which the plants are wanted. 
It is propagated by division of the rhizomes while dormant. D. bullata, 
D. pentaphylla, D. Tyermanni, and D. dissecta are well adapted for bas- 
kets. Those made of wire should be selected, so that the rhizomes, as 
they lengthen, may be pegged against the side. D. alpina and D. par- 
vula are exceedingly pretty dwarf-growing species for a warm green- 
house. D. stricta is grown as a pot plant; this species is easily raised 
from spores. 

D. Mariesii is the species used in making up " Fern Balls." It is decidu- 
ous and should he kept moist enough in Winter to prevent the rhizomes 
from shrivelling. 

D. Mooreana is a desirable plant for house decoration, but is not 
grown in quantity, owing to the difficulty of getting up a large stock 
within a reasonable time. Those in a starved condition make the best 
stock plants. 

DICKSONIA PAROMETZ is a very useful, medium-sized decorative 
species. It is freely increased by division. 



104 FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 

D. antarctica— The stems of this noble Tree-Fern are sometimes im- 
ported in a dormant state. When placed in a cool, moist house in pots 
only large enough to accommodate them, they usually start into 
growth. Young plants are raised from spores sown in a cool, shaded 
greenhouse. They sometimes germinate freely sown on the stems of the 
old plants. The fronds are of a leathery texture, and the plants stand 
much rough treatment. 

LOMARIA GIBBA is a miniature Tree-Fern forming very graceful 
rosettes of simply divided leaves. It is useful even in a very small state, 
as the foliage is different from that of most other Ferns grown in quantity 
for decorative purposes. Old plants produce fertile fronds in abun- 
dance, and if the spores are harvested and sown at the proper time, they 
vegetate very quickly. By this method of increase, plants in 5-inch pots 
may be produced in 12 months from sowing. Of this species there are 
one or two handsome forms. L. g. Belli has the points of the pinnae 
beautifully tasselled. L. g. robusta is of a robust growing nature. A 
species closely allied to L. gibba, known as L. ciliata, has shorter apd 
stouter fronds. The plant is quite as useful and as easily raised from 
spores as L. gibba. 

MICROLEPIA (Davallia ) HIRTA CRIST ATA is one of the handsomest 
of crested Ferns, capable of being grown into very large, symmetrical 
specimens. To have it at its best it needs a warm temperature. Water 
should be kept from the fronds, as they are quite hairy and are apt to 
turn brown when kept wet. Increased by division. 

NEPHROLEPIS — The species and forms are for the most part plants 
with tough, leathery fronds, enabling them to be used with little injury 
for decorating or house plants. Several varieties are largely grown. 
The most popular are forms of N. exaltata. N. e. bostoniensis is an old 
and deservedly popular plant which has within the last few years been 
very extensively employed as a decorative plant. Large [specimens are 
well adapted for placing on pedestals, or hanging from the roof of a 
large conservatory. It is increased by division, planting the pieces in 
shallow soil, on benches, and potting up the young plants, which are 
formed from runners. The plant known as N. davallioides furcans is a 
crested form, evidently not of N. davallioides but of some other species, 
probably one allied to N. acuta. When planted out on benches it gives 
off plants from runners in the same manner as the Boston Fern, but not 
so plentifully. Old specimens may be divided and the pieces put thickly 
together on a bench, in leaf mould and sand, to make a little growth 
before potting. 

N. e. cristata is a form closely resembling the last named; it needs 
more heat to develop it perfectly. 

N. washingtoniensis and N. w. pendula are both good kinds for decora- 
tive purposes. The fronds after being cut will last for a long time un- 
der what would seem adverse conditions. 

N. cordifolia, when well grown, is an elegant decorative subject. The 
typical form is much smaller than any of the above-mentioned species 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 105 

and varieties. The fronds are narrow and the leaf divisions close together, 
but, like some of the others, it varies much. One of the varieties pro- 
duces tubers; the fronds in this case are large and may be mistaken for 
those of N. exaltata. 

N. c. pectinata is a well known variety, having the fronds narrow 
and drooping. When matured it is usually grown in baskets suspended 
from the roof of a greenhouse. Useful specimens may also be grown in 
5-inch pots. Increased by divisions, which may be quite small. 

N. acuta is a stout growing and distinct species; the fronds are 
sometimes 16 inches broad and from 2 to 4 feet long. It makes but few 
fronds when compared with some of the others. It must have abundant 
root room. Increased by stolons. 

N. davallioides is somewhat coarse in growth. It needs careful han- 
dling while the fertile fronds are developing. Moderate-sized specimens 
do not show this plant at its best, as it is the very long fertile fronds on 
plants several feet across which make it attractive. Increased by divi- 
sion. 

ONYCH1UM— Of this genus two species are commonly grown for 
decorative purposes; the fronds are very much divided. O. auratum is 
the largest, but O. japonicum is the handsomest. Both are easily in- 
creased from spores; or the old plants may be divided, but only to make 
large specimens. 

PLATYCERIUM (Stag Horn Fern)— From their wonderful resem- 
blance to the antlers of a stag well grown plants of the Platyceriums 
never fail to attract attention. The species called P. grande is the most 
striking of the number. A native of the northern part of Australia it 
needs more heat than most of the others. While they succeed pretty 
well in pots they do better and look more natural when grown on blocks 
of wood. Some forked limbs of trees should be cut up on which to fasten 
the plants. The pieces should be in the neighborhood of 18 inches in 
length. Drive in a few nails here and there; place some rough peat and 
moss against the wood; put the plant in position and wire it firmly, 
packing in portions of the peat and moss wherever possible. 

R. grande can only be propagated in quantity from the spores, 
which are found in a large mass underneath the primary division of the 
frond. Raising young plants in this way is not a diflicult operation, 
but one that requires lots of patience. A pan should be prepared con- 
taining fibry peat, chopped fine; add a liberal quantity of finely-broken 
brick, charcoal, and coarse sand. The pan should be placed in a flat of 
water so that the mixture may derive moisture from beneath. Water 
should never be given overhead, as germination depends, to a great ex- 
tent, on the spores remaining in the same spot until the prothallus be- 
gins to form. 

P. alcicorne and its var. majus may be grown in a cool greenhpuse. 
These kinds, together with P. Hillii and P. sethiopica, increase rapidly 
from the roots, many bud-like processes forming on the surfaces and 



106 FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 

sending up tiny leaves. These young plants may be removed when an 
inch or two high, and potted singly in small pots. 

POL YPODIUM— This is the largest genus of the order, and includes 
many plants which have long been known under other generic names. 
These names are in common use, and it is likely that they will continue 
to be employed for a long time. Some of the better known are Cam- 
pyloneuron, Cryptosorus, Drynaria, Goniophlebium, Goniopteris, Lepi- 
cystis, Niphobolus, Phegopteris, Phlebodium and Pleopeltis. There is a 
great number of exceedingly beautiful plants among the species. The 
varieties, especially those of the common Polypody, P. vulgare, are 
among the handsomest of hardy Ferns, but they are not so much grown 
in America as in Europe, where they do grandly in outdoor ferneries. 

P. (Goniophlebium) sub=auriculatum makes one of the finest basket 
plants for a warm greenhouse. The fronds are several feet in length, 
and drooping. This Fern is not difficult to grow, provided it be given 
a fibrous soil and an abundant supply of water during the period of 
growth. It is helped along wonderfully by adding to the soil some finely 
crushed bone with the minute particles washed out, only saving the 
rougher material in the process of washing. This substance, by the 
way, is of great service as permanent food for many of the Ferns, but 
the deleterious matter must be removed by washing. 

P. (Niphobolus) lingua, from Northern India and Japan, is almost 
hardy and one of the best for house culture. There are three forms: one 
variegated, another crested, the third having the largest fronds. The 
fronds are undivided, very leathery in texture and remain in good condi- 
tion for more than a year. All of them are very readily increased by 
division. 

P. Heracleum and P. conjugatum are suitable for a warm conserva- 
tory. When well grown they are odd and attractive. The very thick 
rhizomes grow on the surface of the soil and accommodate themselves 
in a wonderful way to a limited rooting area by growing in coils. 

P. (Phlebodium) aureum should be more grown for decorative purposes, 
as it will stand a dry atmosphere, is very graceful, and the spores on a 
small frond will raise thousands of plants. They should be sown on 
very finely chopped Fern roots mixed with screened moss. The fronds 
are from 2 to 4 feet in length, and from 9 to 18 inches broad, simply 
divided. It grows most luxuriantly among Fern root, peat and moss. 
There is a form called P. a. sporadocarpum with fronds very glaucous, 
almost blue, usually growing from 12 to 18 inches high— a handsome 
plant, showing up well under gaslight. Increased by rhizomes. It needs 
more heat than the type. 

P. rigidulum — A species too seldom seen. It has two kinds of fronds 
very different from eash other; the barren ones are about 9 inches in 
length, divided half way to the mid-rib, forming blunt lobes. The fertile 
ones reach a height of from 2 to 4 feet, and are 12 to 18 inches broad. 
A very handsome plant for collections. 

P. "Phymatodes is a rhizomatous species of very rapid growth, with 
exceedingly graceful leaves. The fronds are deeply pinnatifid, the fertile 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 107 

ones narrowest. One of the uses to which this Fern may be put is in 
training against damp walls or on the dead stems of Tree Ferns. It is 
easiest propagated by taking pieces of the rhizomes with fronds attached 
and pegging down in 4 or 5-inch pots of sandy soil. 

PTERIS— There are many good decorative plants in this genus, all of 
which are easy to propagate. Most of them may be grown in ordinary 
greenhouse temperature. Of P. serrulata, much used in a small state, 
there are numerous forms, some of which have beautifully crested fronds 
and others variegated. 

P. cretica albo=lineata is one of the finest of all variegated Ferns. The 
barren fronds are nearest the base of the plant; they are shorter and 
broader than the fertile ones. A broad band of creamy white occupies 
the middle of each leaf division. This Fern comes true from the spores, 
which vegetate in a very short time after sowing. 

P. quadriaurita, a variable species. The most useful form is known 
as P. q. argyrsea, having a white mark down the center of each frond — 
a very useful variety in a small state. It is raised from spores. 

Pteris tremula is best for using in pots not under 5-inch. It is one of 
the quickest raised from spores. There are crested forms. The one 
named P. t. Smithiana has been in the trade for several years. 

P. Wallichii and P. inequalifolia (the latter evidently related to P. 
semipinnata) are coarse growing and easily multiplied by division. P. 
hastata and P. macrophylla have very dark green fronds. Both are 
very liable to insect attacks, unless grown cool. They are both useful in 
2 and 3-inch pots. 

SELAGINELLA— Although not related to Ferns, some of the species 
have a striking resemblance to these plants. Their cultural require- 
ments are almost similar. They do best in shade, and with a few excep- 
tions they need a rather warm atmosphere, especially while making 
their new growth. They may be propagated from spores, division of 
the crowns, or from cuttings. Propagation by spores is seldom attempted , 
as dividing the plants and rooting from cuttings will give an abun- 
dant supply. 

S. Emmeliana, one of the best for supplying small plants for mixing 
with Ferns, is increased by breaking up the mature fronds into small 
pieces, and scattering these on the surface of a box or bed of sandy soil, 
which should be kept moist and shaded from the sun. Every small 
piece will make a plant. 

S. Kraussiana is a dense growing moss-like species, much used for 
covering the soil in pots in which other plants are growing, in Fern 
dishes, and for the borders of conservatory beds. S. K. aurea has yel- 
low foliage. S. K. variegata is green and white. In propagating this 
species and its forms it should not be broken up into little tufts and 
potted, as is usually the case. Take single growths and put, say three 
of them, in a 3-inch pot; in a short time they will develop enough growth 
to cover the soil. 



108 FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 

S. erythropus is a useful species with reddish stems reaching a height 
of about 9 inches. 

S. Martensii, a Mexican species, is one of those most frequently grown. 
It is exceedingly easy to propagate, as long aerial roots are made from 
the stems. Cuttings, say about 4 inches in length, will root well if put 
in small pots and kept close; or to fill large pans, and have them present 
a well-furnished appearance in a short time, root the pieces in sand, 
afterward putting directly in the pans. 

S. Iepidophylla is the well-known " Resurrection Plant," which, when 
dry, curls up into a ball, and which uncurls when placed in water. 

S. viticulosa grows about 8 inches high, is always bright green. An 
easily divided plant and useful in a small state. 

S. cassia arborea is a climbing species very suitable for rambling over 
rustic work in a moist conservatory. Where its serial roots are allowed 
to fasten themselves to suitable material it grows into a dense, irregular 
mass of lovely bluish-green foliage. 

Soil— This should be of a porous nature, through which water will 
pass freely. Small plants from spores will need about two parts leaf 
soil and one each of loam and sand. Loam, whenever used, should be 
fibrous, well broken up and not sifted. For plants in pots larger than 4- 
inch, leaf soil, loam and sand, in equal parts, will be a safe compound. 
Some Ferns, notably A. Farleyense, are benefited by having some rotted 
cow manure mixed with the soil. Large plants, and those which have 
to remain in the same pots for any length of time without shifting, 
should have less leaf soil and more loam. But most of the species thrive 
in a variety of soils. The usual time for potting large plants is before 
starting into growth; but rapid-growing, small plants should be shifted 
into larger pots as they need them. 

Summer Quarters for Cool House Ferns— Many Ferns used during 
Winter as decorative plants will be found to put on a vigorous growth 
in frames during the warm months. Select those frames with a northern 
exposure, with the sashes tilted to give an abundance of air. The pots 
may be plunged or placed on some material capable of giving off consid- 
erable moisture. The plants may be kept in this structure till cool 
weather. Among the kinds which may be thus treated are Pteris Vic- 
toriae, P. cretica albo-lineata, P. Mayii, P. serrulata and its many 
forms, P. tremula, P. hastata, Onychium japonicum, Aspidium capense, 
Adiantum Capillus- Veneris, A.formosum,Cyrtomium falcatum and Dick- 
sonia antarctica. In Winter a minimum temperature of 45 degrees will 
keep all of the Ferns named above in healthy condition. For the tender 
kinds 10 to 15 degrees higher will be necessary. 

Shading— Some Ferns, such as Cheilanthes vestita, grow in dry places 
in the full sun, but the vast majority thrive only under conditions exactly 
the reverse. In Winter the very thinnest shade will be sufficient, and 
from the 1st of April to the end of September it should be heavy enough 
to intercept the sun's rays. 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 109 

Preparing Soil for Fern Spores— The greatest hindrances to raising 
Ferns from spores are the lower forms of plant life ever present in the 
soil, and very often in the water. These consist of Mosses, Liverworts 
and the various confervoid growths. Many of them, owing to the 
favorable conditions presented, vegetate as quickly as the spores of the 
Ferns and grow into a mass, choking the prothallus in the first stages 
of growth. The only means of getting around this difficulty lies in ster- 
ilizing the soil, or, at least, that part of it on which the spores are to be 
sown; and this can only be done safely by subjecting it to a temperature 
sufficiently high to kill all plant organisms, by baking, steaming or boil- 
ing. The last method will be the most available in the majority of 
cases. The soil may be boiled for 15 or 20 minutes, and afterward 
poured into wide flat boxes to dry. Shallow pans are the most conve- 
nient in which to vegetate tfie spores; they should be well drained with 
potsherds and these covered with a layer of sphagnum. The kind of 
soil to be used Is of little importance, provided it be porous and free of 
vegetable organisms. Loam, leaf mould and finely broken brick, in 
equal parts, make an ideal mixture. Press it firmly and give water 
always by sinking the pan up to the rim in a vessel containing water. 

Gathering and Sowing Spores— Many failnres in germinating some of 
the rarer kinds of Ferns may be set down to harvesting the spores at 
the wrong time. They should always be gathered with the aid of a 
hand-magnifying glass, which will show when the cases are about to 
burst. Cut off the entire frond, or as much as may be wanted, and put 
between sheets of white paper to dry. In a day or two the spores will 
have fallen from the frond; if not, a gentle rubbing between the fingers 
will release them. They should then be scattered on the surface of the 
soil in the pan, taking care to sow very thinly, as they are very liable to 
dampen off when the prothalli are too close together. Cover with a 
pane of glass and put the pan in a shaded frame, or in a heavily shaded 
part of the greenhouse. When the prothallus develops, and just as the 
first tiny leaves appear, the glass covers may be removed, to harden the 
seedlings a little. A day or two after they may be pricked off into other 
pans of soil, taking one small paten at a time on the end of a knife blade 
and merely pressing them into a previously made cavity on the surface 
of the soil. They may then be watered through a fine rose. 

Viviparous Ferns are those which develop bulbils along the midribs 
or on the lateral branchlets of the fronds, thus providing a ready means 
of propagation. Polystichum angulare, Asplenium bulbiferum and 
Woodwardia radicans are good examples. There are also several other 
well-known Ferns which possess this peculiarity. To increase Ferns by 
this means sink the pots up to their rims in a suitable mixture of ' soil 
to enable the fronds which are provided with bulbils to be easily pegged 
down, so that plantlets may be encouraged to develop roots quickly. 
When they have made a sufficient quantity to enable them to become 
self-supporting they may be separated from the frond and potted sepa- 
rately into 2y 2 -inch pots, or, if too small for pots, they may be pricked 
off into boxes or pans. 



110 FEENS AND LYCOPODS. 

Insect Enemies— If the plants are not subjected to adverse condi- 
tions, such as too high a temperature, or insufficient moisture in the air 
or at the roots, they will seldom be attacked by insects. The Mealy 
Bug, Thrips and Brown Scale, are sometimes troublesome. Scale is not 
easy to remove, and the only efficacious method is to use a sponge and 
water. For the other insects fumigation or vaporizing may be resorted 
to or,' if only a few plants are affected, they may be laid on their sides 
and the insects removed by using the hose. Slugs are the greatest ene- 
mies of the Ferns, and a close watch should be kept for them. Various 
methods are employed to capture them, such as a board smeared on the 
under side with lard, cabbage leaves, and sliced turnips, or potatoes laid 
among the plants; or by using camphor among the pots, and air-slacked 
lime on and under the benches. If the slugs are numerous, hand-picking 
should first be resorted to. They feed at night and rest during the day. 
They will usually be found in the angular space beneath the rims of the 
pots. 



Ill 



Hardy Perennial Plants. 

AC.CNA MICROPHYLLA— A native of New Zealand. In localities 
where this species will thrive it will be found one of the best trailing 
dwarf sub-shrubs. The flowers are inconspicuous, but the flower heads, 
on maturing, are covered with long, crimson spines, which give the 
plant a very ornamental appearance. For a rockery few plants surpass 
it in forming neat, compact masses. It is not particular as to soil. In 
this locality young plants are best put out in their permanent positions 
early in the Fall, as when put out in Spring they do not make sufficient 
growth to insure a healthy, vigorous condition during the hot months. 
It is propagated by division and from seeds. 

ACANTHUS— In warm spots, at least three of the species are hardy 
with us, but they bloom only sparingly. In one or two of the species, 
but notably in A. spinosus, the flower stalks have a handsome appear- 
ance for quite a while after the flowers are dead. A. mollis and A. m. 
latifolius were used for bedding in this city a few years ago. These 
kinds are easily increased by division of the roots. Seeds are readily 
obtained. The seedlings may be planted out in places where they are to 
remain a few weeks after germinating. They are deep-rooting plants. 
In the colder parts of the country all of the species should have the 
crowns protected in Winter. 

ACHILLEA niLLEFOLIUn— A native composite, with large flat corymbs 
of white, red, or purple flowers. The leaves are much divided. It is one 
of the easiest plants to cultivate in the open border, spreading very 
rapidly and flowering profusely. Large clumps may be divided with a 
spade at any time during Spring or Autumn and replanted. It usually 
grows from one to two feet high. 

A. ptarmica flore=pleno— The variety of this known as The Pearl is 
one of the most desirable of hardy herbaceous plants, because of the 
flowers, which are double and white. They are produced in great pro- 
fusion if the plants get fair treatment. This Achillea should not be 
divided in Spring, for unless favorable weather conditions follow the 
operation the plants will receive a check from which they do not thor- 
oughly recover the same season. If taken up and divided during the 
first half of October, replanted and watered if necessary, they will de- 
velop working coots before freezing weather, and send up flowers the 
following season as if nothing had happened. Do not divide the plants 
too closely, and if the ground in which they are growing is dry, water 
well before the operation and give another watering when the pieces are 
replanted. 

Other varieties of A. p. flore-pleno are known as Snowball and Ele- 
gans, all of them are white flowered. 



112 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

A. tomentosa is a dwarf, woolly-leaved evergreen, with yellow 
flowers. Increased by division. 

A. mongolica grows about 18 inches high, bears single white flowers. 
Comes into bloom early, and is used for cutting. All of the kinds need 
full sunshine. 

ACIPHYLLA SQUARROSA and A. COLENSOI-New Zealand umbel- 
liferous plants, with dense rosettes of sharp-pointed leaves. In a young 
and flo werless stage they are attractive, and may be used in Summer for 
rockwork. In the colder parts the plants should either be lifted and 
stored in a frame, or protected by a covering of some kind. Both are 
raised from seeds sown during the latter part of February. 

ACONITUn (Monkshood)— In the warmer parts of the country, where 
the Delphiniums will not thrive, some of the Aconitums will be found to 
be pretty fair substitutes, as they thrive moderately well where the sun 
is only allowed to strike them through a leafy shade. If the soil around 
them is given a mulch of 2 or 3 inches deep, to preserve moisture, they 
will flower all the better for it. The species are very numerous and have 
a wide geographical range. A.napellusisthe best known; unfortunately 
it is one of the most poisonous of cultivated plants, but hurtful only 
when taken internally. Some of its varieties are A. n. album, flowers 
white; A. n. longibracteatum, rich blue; A. n. bicolor, white and lilac; 
A. n. Braunii, deep purple. A. ochroleucum and A. pyrenaicum have 
pale yellow flowers. A. napellus and its forms flower about midsum- 
mer. A. Fischeri, a pale blue flowered native species, blooms late in 
Summer. Propagated by division in Fall or Spring. 

ACORUS CALAMUS VARIEGATUS (Variegated Sweet Flag) is a 

grassy-looking plant, with finely marked leaves. It is well suited for 
growing on the margins of artificial lakes; few other places will keep it 
in a healthy state unless the soil be moist and partly shaded. It should 
be propagated by division of the rhizomes, as growth commences in 
Spring. A. gramineus variegatus is an exceedingly handsome little 
variegated plant, growing only a few inches high. It will thrive in 
much dryer soil than the first-named species. It makes a great number 
of grassy-looking growths,, so that division is an easy matter at almost 
any time. 

ADONIS— The annual species, of which there are two— A. aestivalis 
and A. autumnalis — are more commonly grown than the perennials of 
which there are four. A. vernalis and A. pyrenaica are very elegant 
species for borders or rockwork. The flowers are large, yellow ; the foli- 
age much divided. They do best with slight shade. Propagation by seed 
is a rather slow method. Large plants will best stand division in early 
Autumn. 

^THIONEMA CORIDIFOLIUn— A slender, evergreen shrub, growing 
about 6 inches, suitable for edgings of borders or for rockwork. Very 
readily raised from seeds which should be sown in Autumn and the seed- 
lings put out early in Spring. When in rockwork pockets give a mulch- 
ing of leaf soil or moss to prevent baking of the earth and to keep the 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 113 

roots cool. It belongs to the Nat. Ord. Cruciferge. Other good species 
are 1£. grandiflorum and M. pulchellum. 

AQROSTEMMA (Lychnis) CORONARIA— This species and its varieties 
are always satisfactory in the herbaceous border. They are very quickly 
raised from seed, or by division. The foliage is silvery throughout; 
the flowers are rose colored; A. c. atro-sanguinea, crimson; A. c. alba, 
white; A. c. hybrida, rosy crimson. They grow from one to two feet 
high. Almost any kind of soil will suit them, but they must have full 
sunshine. 

A. flos-Jovis differs from A. coronaria, in having umbellate heads of 
bloom, with the foliage narrower. The flowers are purple or scarlet. 

All of the above are useful plants for florists to handle. Sow the seed 
in the Fall; keep in a cool house. As soon as the seedlings are large 
enough prick off into boxes. They may be put out in a cold frame very 
early in the season. Or by sowing early in September the seedlings can 
be wintered in frames. 

AJUGA— The creeping or stoloniferous species are much used as dwarf 
plants for forming dense carpets, either on rockwork or in the open 
border. As they grow in dense masses they usually are self-supporting 
during the hot months. A. reptans var rubra has dark purple foliage. 
A. r. variegata is beautifully mottled with yellow. A. genevensis is a 
variable species with dull red, white or blue flowers; does well in shady 
places. All of the above are readily increased by division either in Fall 
or Spring. 

ALTHL6A ROSEA (Hollyhock)— One of the tallest growing herbaceous 
plants, also one of the showiest. It is what may be called an old-fash- 
ioned flower, and it is doubtful if there has been any improvement in the 
size and shape of the bloom for a goodly number of years. A host of 
varieties used to be kept true to name years ago; these were perpetu- 
ated by cuttings, divisions and grafting on roots; but now the best 
sorts come tolerably true from seeds. The principal colors are white, 
yellow, pink, red and purple. Seeds to produce flowering plants within 
a year should be sown as soon as ripe— usually in August. Sow in a 
box of rather light soil and cover very lightly with screened moss. The 
seedlings being large from the start should be put singly in small pots, 
and as they get too large for that size, shift into two or three sizes 
larger. Keep them in a cold frame; give an abundance of ventilation in 
favorable weather so that they may become stocky and robust. The 
ground should be well prepared for their reception, otherwise they will 
not attain full size— 6 to 8 feet tall — and only remain in bloom two or 
three weeks. The plants should be put out as early as the ground can 
be worked. Good kinds should be marked for seed as they bloom, and 
extra good sorts may be propagated by any of the above mentioned 
methods. 

ALYSSUM (Madwort)— In this genus there are several rockwork or 
border plants, which, in their seasons, make a good show while in bloom. 
A. saxatile and A. s. compactum are Spring bloomers. The plants are 



114 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

of a dwarf shrubby nature with grayish-green leaves and dense heads of 
deep yellow flowers. A. s. variegatum has the foliage marked with yel- 
low blotches, which, when the plant is out of bloom, renders it more 
valuable than the type as an ornamental plant during the Summer. A. 
gemonense is nearly allied to A. saxatile, but is less hardy, and continues 
longer in bloom. A. rostratum grows about iy 2 feet high and blooms 
later than any of the above named. The species and forms are not par- 
ticular as to soil, usually growing very freely wherever planted. They 
are easily raised from seed, which should be sown in August and the 
seedlings kept in a light, airy position until large enough to be planted 
out. 

ANEMONE JAPONICA— This species and its varieties are late flowering 
herbaceous plants, growing from one to two feet high, with large white 
or pale rose-colored flowers, useful for cutting. The varieties are A. j. 
alba, A. j. rosea and A. j. Whirlwind. Root propagation is the method 
employed, and it may be done at almost any season, but preferably in 
early Spring. Dig up some of the oldest plants, saving even the small 
roots. Cut both large and small into pieces about 2 inches in length 
and put in boxes of sandy soil, covering the pieces with an inch of the 
same material. Keep fairly moist and in a cool frame. When the roots 
have developed growths from 2 to 3 inches high put in 3-inch pots, 
plunging these in ashes and keeping them covered for a few days. After 
the plants make a sufficient quantity of roots they should be put out in 
their permanent quarters, where preparation should be made for them 
in advance by having the ground deeply worked and well manured. 
During Summer, both young and old plants should be heavily mulched 
if the maximum number of flowers are expected from them. During dry 
weather the plants, if neglected, are apt to stand still and throw up 
only a few feeble looking flowers, so it is important that they be kept 
moderately moist by mulching. Short grass, leaves, or half-rotted 
stable bedding will answer. In this genus there are about 85 species, 
several of which have numerous varieties. Most of them are desirable 
plants, but some are weedy, and increase too rapidly in gardens. 

A. alpina, a European species, grows about 18 inches high, forming 
large clumps. The flowers are usually solitary, from 2 to 3 inches in 
diameter, white inside, purplish outside. There is a very fine yellow 
flowered variety of this named A. a. sulphurea. Both kinds are slow in 
making flowering plants from seeds. 

Among the slender, tuberous rooted section, A. Appenina and A. 
nemorosa are early flowering dwarf species well suited for naturalizing 
among deciduous, low-growing trees and shrubs, as they make most of 
their growth before the shrubs andjtrees are in leaf. 

ANTIRRHINUM (Snapdragon)— The varieties of A. majus have long 
been grown as hardy perennials in Europe. In the northern and middle 
parts the climatic conditions are more favorable for their growth in the 
late Summer and Autumn months, as they flourish best in a moist, cold 
atmosphere. In America, especially in the Middle and South Atlantic 
States, they are best treated as biennials, as the plants which survive 
the Winter are usually not in as vigorous a condition as could be wished. 



UARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 115 

Cuttings may be put in during October and given the protection of a 
frame during the cold months. Or seeds should be sown late in Septem- 
ber to have good-sized plants by the following Spring. The tops of the 
seedlings may be rooted quickly in the propagating bed of a cool house; 
or they may be grown from the start with the view of flowering them 
in pots, for which purpose they are entirely satisfactory. The principal 
colors are white, red, purple and yellow, several kinds having combina- 
tions of two or more of these colors. A. asarina, from the south of 
France, has a trailing habit; the leaves are grayish green and of a 
clammy nature; flowers yellowish white. It thrives best in positions 
partly shaded from the sun. It reproduces itself freely from seeds which 
ripen in abundance and may frequently be seen growing in the chinks of 
shady walls. 

AQUILEGIA (Columbine)— Hardy perennial plants with very showy 
flowers. The colors include red, white, blue and yellow; often there are 
two or more of these colors in the same flower. About 30 species are in 
cultivation. There are numerous varieties, the results of hybridization, 
few of which, however, surpass the species in attractiveness as border 
plants. The Aquilegia is so easily hybridized that it is almost impossi- 
ble to obtain plants from seeds true to name when two or more species 
are grown near each other; even with two species apparently very dis- 
tinct, such as A. chrysantha and A. flabellata, they readily mix, but the 
progeny has a very undesirable combination of colors in the flowers. 
It is always advisable to protect a few flowers of the desirable species 
from the visitations of insects, so as to make certain of having the seed- 
lings true. I have found the best way to do this is to flower a few 
plants in pots and keep the blossoms covered with fine cloth while fer- 
tilization is in progress. The seeds germinate irregularly when they 
remain long out of the soil, but when sown as soon as gathered they 
vegetate very freely, even in midsummer. Spring sowing is unsatisfac- 
tory, because the seedlings do not make desirable growth during hot 
weather, and often more than a year elapses before any flowers are pro- 
duced. Sow in moderately light soil, and cover lightly with screened 
moss; keep in an airy, cool house. When the seedlings are large enough 
they may be pricked off into boxes, or round the edges of small pots of 
soil. Put them out in a frame when they are large enough to stand sun- 
shine. If planted outside, where they are to flower, by the end of Sep- 
tember they will make fairly strong crowns before cool weather sets in, 
and in the following Spring will bloom strong and vigorous. Among 
the red flowering kinds we have A. formosa, A. californica, A. truncata 
and A. canadensis; in white there are several, among the best being A. 
californica alba, A. flabellata, a dwarf-growing species with very orna- 
mental foliage; A. coerulea alba, and A. vulgaris alba. The best of the 
yellows are A. chrysantha and A. c. flavescens. In the blue-flowered 
forms there is a large number to choose from: A. coerulea is a very satis- 
factory species; A. vulgaris coerulea, A. olympica are both good. In A. 
glandulosa the sepals are blue and the petals white. Several of the spe- 
cies and varieties are very easily forced into bloom, among them A. 
flabellata. It is a trifle later in coming into flower than A. canadensis, 
which usually is in full flower in this latitude by April 10. A. chrys- 



116 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

antha is later in flowering, but a hybrid between it and A. flabellata, 
with the last named as the seed parent, bloomed this season a week ahead 
of A. canadensis. The color of this hybrid is a little puzzling; there are 
several dozen plants and not a single specimen is different from the others. 
The petals are yellow, the spurs of which are the same color as the 
sepals— deep purplish blue. All of the plants are quite dwarf, resem- 
bling A. flabellata in this respect. The Aquilegias have a habit of dying 
out after the second and third year. Any species which it is desired to 
increase in the absence of seeds should be lifted, divided and replanted 
early in the Fall, so that the pieces may have a chance to become estab- 
lished before Winter. 

ARABIS (Rock Cress)— Many of the species of Eock Cress are of no 
horticultural value and are seldom seen outside of botanical collections. 
Three of them, however, are among the most desirable of Spring flower- 
ing plants, and may be found in nearly every garden of any size. They 
are A. albida, A. lucida and A. alpina. A. albida is the best known; it 
forms a dense carpet, the stems being long and wiry, with dense rosettes 
of leaves at the ends. The flowers, which are pure white, are borne in 
great profusion, almost hiding the foliage. A. alpina is not such a free 
grower, but is equally suitable for rockwork, especially the variegated 
form. A. lucida is dwarfer than the other two ; this has also a varie- 
gated form which, like the variety of A. alpina, should not be allowed 
to flower. The variegated varieties should be propagated by division, 
or by cuttings put in early in the season. The green-leaved kinds are 
best raised from seeds, treated in the same manner as recommended for 
Aubrietia. 

ARALIA (Fatsia) PAPYRIFERA is the rice paper plant of the Chinese. 
It is one of the noblest plants in cultivation for sub-tropical effects. The 
leaves are palmately divided, supported by strong stalks from a stout 
central stem. The whole plant has a grayish cast to it. In the North- 
ern States it stands the Winter if the crowns are protected with some 
rough material. In a single season strong crowns will grow 8 or 10 feet 
high. It is propagated by cutting up the rhizome-like roots into pieces 
about 3 inches long and covering them with moss or sand. Keep the 
boxes containing the roots in a cool frame all Winter, introducing them 
into a little heat early in the Spring so as to have the plants large 
enough to plant out by the middle of May. The flower is not the least 
attractive part of the plant. In the Southern States the plant is in 
bloom during the months of September and October; but in this latitude 
it is usually unfolding when its career is cut short by cold weather. The 
color is greenish white, the flowers being arranged in drooping panicles 
2 to 3 feet in length. 

ARGEMONE (Devil's Fig)— Most of the species grown in gardens are 
of annual duration. They will germinate outdoors late in Spring and 
develop very rapidly into flowering plants. A. grandiflora is a peren- 
nial with white flowers 3 to 5 inches in diameter, but not so free in 
blooming as the annual species. It must be given a position in full sun- 
shine. Seedlings should be pricked off into small pots as soon as the 
seed leaves are developed, as the roots will not endure much disturbance. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 117 

ARMERIA (Sea Pink)— Of the Sea Pinks A. vulgaris is the best known. 
It grows in dense low clumps, having narrow grass-like leaves. The 
flowers are in close heads, on scapes only a few inches high. There are 
numerous forms of this species, with red, lilac, deep pink and white 
flowers. A. cephalotes has much larger leaves than the above, and the 
flowers, which arecleep rose, or crimson, are borne on very long scapes. 
A. plantaginea is intermediate in size between the two first-named spe- 
cies. The choicer varieties are best increased by division; the pieces 
should be potted in sandy soil in the beginning of October and kept in a 
close frame to encourage roots. All of the species are best raised from 
seed. Sow late in Autumn, in a cool house, prick off the seedlings and 
remove to a cold frame early to thoroughly harden off. In this section 
we put out plants of this class in the open ground as soon as it is in a 
workable condition, so that they may be well established before the hot 
weather arrives. 

ASCLEPIAS TUBEROSA (Pleurisy Root)— One of our most showy 
flowered native herbaceous plants. It is deep rooting, and is frequently 
seen growing luxuriantly in dry fields in positions fully exposed to the 
sun, with the surrounding herbage almost withered. It is late in bloom- 
ing and valuable on this account. In removing plants from their native 
places they should be taken only after they have completed growth. As 
many of the roots as possible should be saved, as the species dislikes 
removal. Raising plants from seeds is the most certain method of prop- 
agation. As they grow but slowly in the seedling stage sow only a 
few seeds in a pot of rather firm soil, and allow the young plants to 
remain in these pots for at least a year before planting out. When culti- 
vated in gardens the blooming period is longer than is the case with 
wild plants. 

ASPERULA ODORATA (Sweet Woodruff )— A slender growing plant of 
the Bedstraw family (Eubiaceae,) with pure white flowers in May. It 
will succeed in clumps if given a partially shaded situation, but as it 
blooms only for a short season, and the foliage is not very attractive, 
it is sometimes grown in a quite satisfactory way in company with other 
plants, such as Vinca herbacea, V. minor, and even with varieties of the 
English Ivy when used for covering ground among shrubs and under 
trees. The flowers of the Woodruff appearing among the foliage of these 
plants makes an exceedingly pretty picture. It is propagated by divi- 
sion and from seeds. The leaves, when dried, have a very agreeable 
aromatic odor. 

ASTER (JTichaelmas Daisy)— Nearly a hundred species and varieties 
of these popular border plants are offered by some of the European 
nurserymen. Many of the plants are indispensable for the ornamenta- 
tion of the herbaceous border in late Summer and Autumn. They are 
all of free growth and will thrive in ordinary garden soil without much 
attention; but if the soil be worked deep, and well manured before plant- 
ing, the plants will show the results of it in the size and number of 
flowers. These asters are best increased by division before starting into 
active growth. Of A. novi-belgii there are numerous forms, some of 
them only 18 inches high and from that ranging to a height of 6 feet. 



118 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

The flowers are lavender or violet blue, rose and white; A. novae-angliae 
is one of the best-known species, tall growing, with purple flowers; its 
variety, A. n.-a. rubra, bearing rose-colored flowers, should always be 
included in a collection. Other good forms of this species are A. n.-a. 
prsecox, crimson purple; A. n.-a. Woolston, light purplish blue, and A. 
n.-a. pulchellus, violet blue. 

ASTILBE JAPONICA, usually known in gardens as Spiraea japonica. 
The Spiraeas belong to the Rose famliy, while Astilbe japonica is classed 
with the Saxifragas, but A. Lemoinei is said to be a hybrid between A. 
japonica and a species of Aruncus, which is also a rosaceous genus. If 
this be the case then both plants must necessarily be closely related, and 
if not of the same genus then they are of the same family. Astilbe ja- 
ponica is better known as a forcing plant than as a subject for the hardy 
border. It is best grown in partial shade, for when in sunny places, 
unless kept supplied with water during dry spells, the foliage is apt to 
suffer before the close of the Summer. There are several fine varieties. 
A. j. compacta has more compact panicles than the type. A. j. grandi- 
flora is larger; A. j. variegata has a yellowish variegation; A. rivularis 
makes a splendid border plant in this section, growing to a height of 
5 feet, and blooming late in the season. A. Thunbergii grows about 18 
inches high, and is much used as a forcing plant. In the border it thrives 
best in heavy, retentive soil. All of the species are propagated by divi- 
sion, in the early Fall. 

AUBRIETIA DELTOIDEA— A low-growing, evergreen Spring-flowering 
plant, forming dense cushions of growth and thickly studded with small, 
purple flowers early in the season. There are numerous forms; some of 
the best are A. d. Hendersonii, more robust than the type, with deep 
violet-blue flowers; A. d. Eyrei, a free-growing form, and A. d. grseca, a 
large light-purple flowered variety. Aubrietias are well adapted for 
rockwork culture, as they like well-drained situations and rather light 
loamy soil. They will stand full sunshine. The readiest means of prop- 
agation is by seed which may be sown early enough to have the seed- 
lings established before freezing weather; or, the old plants may be 
divided and potted in sandy soil, keeping them in a frame during Winter, 
and planting out as soon as the weather will permit. 

BAPTISIA PERFOLIATA is a native of the Southern States, and is but 
seldom seen in cultivation. Owing to its beautifully arranged perfoliate 
leaves it forms a striking object in the herbaceous border. In Washing- 
ton it is perfectly hardy, and ripens an abundance of seed yearly. They 
are sown soon as gathered; kept in a cold frame they germinate the fol- 
lowing Spring. B. australis grows from 3 to 6 feet high; the flowers 
are blue. It seems to do best in deep sandy soil. Raised from seed. B. 
alba and B. leucantha are white-flowered species. 

BEGONIA EVANSIANA— This, the hardiest of the Begonias, is also 
known as B. discolor and B. grandis. It is a native of China, Japan 
and Java. It is one of the species which form bulbils, or resting buds, 
in the axils of the leaves. These bulbils, when ripe, fall to the ground, 
and it is from them that the young plants grow late in the following 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 119 

Spring. They come safely through a temperature of several degrees be- 
low zero, but just how much cold they will stand I am unable to state. 
The plants thrive best in the shade of dwellings, or anywhere except 
under the shade of trees, and in positions where direct sunlight reaches 
them during the middle of the day. The bulbils pass the Winter success- 
fully fully exposed on the surface of the soil, but precautions must be 
taken to provide against rapid thawing and freezing. When the bulbils 
are left to themselves they usually sprout too thickly together. The 
weaker plants should therefore be thinned out, to give those which are 
left full opportunity to develop, otherwise their period of blooming will 
be short. To have plants early in bloom the bulbils may be harvested 
shortly after the plants are done blooming, kept during the Winter in 
a bottle and sown in time to have the plants in 3-inch pots by the mid- 
dle of May. Notwithstanding the many fine varieties of Begonias for 
bedding, this is one of the best for borders which get the benefit of full 
light from the north. 

BOCCONIA CORDATA (Plume Poppy)— Probably the most imposing 
in appearance of all hardy herbaceous .plants, making growths of from 
6 to 10 feet high. The plant has a grayish green appearance. The 
leaves are large and much cut up, or lobed. The flowers, borne in large 
terminal panicles, are not showy, but they harmonize grandly with the 
foliage. The plant is well fitted for isolated positions on lawns, among 
shrubs, or for large herbaceous borders. While thriving best in deeply 
worked, fairly rich soil it will succeed in stiff and poor ground. Seeds, 
of which a medium-sized plant will produce large numbers, are best for 
propagating in large quantities. They should be germinated in April 
and the seedlings potted off when small. The plant is also increased 
from suckers, which are produced in abundance. It is a native of China 
and Japan, and very hardy. 

CALLIRHOE— A genus belonging to the same family as the Abutilon 
(Malvaceae). C. involucrata, the most useful species, has long, trailing 
stems, with fair-sized purplish red flowers in the axils of the leaves. It 
spreads very rapidly during the Summer months. A good subject for 
borders of moderate width. It should be propagated from seed. Old 
plants need to be frequently renewed, as they seem to exhaust them- 
selves, probably owing to their rampant growth. In C. i. linearifolia the 
leaves are smaller — a good form for the rockery. 

CAMPANULA (Bellf lower)— The perennial species are nearly all desira- 
ble border or rockwork plants, but a few of them become troublesome 
by increasing too fast. C. rapunculoides, when once it becomes estab- 
lished on rockwork, is sometimes very difficult to keep under control. 
None of the kinds usually grown is hard to manage thriving in ordinary 
garden soil. They are propagated most freely from seeds. The best 
time for the operation is in late Summer, wintering the seedlings in 
frames so that the plants may be in good condition for planting out 
early the following Spring. C. persicifolia and its forms are easily in- 
creased by division, which should be done after the flowering season. 
The species in cultivation range in height from 2 or 3 inches to several 
feet; but the rare dwarf kinds are seldom seen in America, nor do they 



120 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

succeed so well here as they do in the cool, moist countries of Europe. 
Of the tall growing border kinds C. alliarisefolia reaches a height of from 
2 to 3 feet; flowers white. C. medium, the Canterbury Bell, is a biennial 
which, raised from seed one year, will flower the next. C. m. calycan- 
thema has the calyx colored like the corolla, forming the well-known 
cup and saucer arrangement. C. pyramidalis, although a perennial, is 
best treated as a biennial. In a young state it should be given the pro- 
tection of a frame during Winter, and if the plants are raised from Spring 
sown seed they ought to be large enough to Winter in 5-inch pots. A 
few should be kept for flowering in pots, as they make exceedingly hand- 
some subjects for the decoration of the conservatory in Summer. C. 
persicifolia is the most useful florists' flower in the genus. C. p. alba 
grandiflora has very large pure white flowers. C. p. alba coronata pro- 
duces white cup and saucer-shaped flowers. C. p. alba-plena is double 
white, and while it lasts it is one of the best Summer white-flowering 
plants. There are also single and double blue-flowered forms. All of 
them grow about 2y 2 feet high. Plants which remain in the ground 
over Winter will be benefited by a mulching around the crowns— of leaf 
soil mixed with short manure. Of C. Trachelium there are double blue 
and white-flowered varieties; height about 2% feet. C. grandis and C. 
g. alba are both good; height 3 feet. C. Van Houttei, a hybrid form 
with dark blue flowers, grows about 2 feet high. Among the many 
dwarf species C. isophylla and C. i. alba, blue and white, are trailers, 
and where they succeed they may be used in baskets and vases, but they 
do not thrive in very dry soil. C. carpatica is probably the most popu- 
lar of the dwarfs; it is a plant which throws up a great number of 
stems, forming a dense mound of compact growth usually about a foot 
high, and when in full flower it is one of the most attractive of hardy 
perennials. There are several forms having blue, pale blue, lilac and 
white flowers. C. c. turbinata is dwarfer than the type; very suitable 
for the front part of an herbaceous border, or for the rockery. C. rotun- 
difolia is rather an attractive species, but as a garden form C. r. Hostii 
is an improvement. 

CATANANCHE CCERULEA— A plant with grayish green, long, narrow 
leaves, and blue or blue and white flowers borne on long slender stalks. 
It is of the easiest cultivation, and a desirable herbaceous plant. Sow 
seeds late in the Fall and keep indoors; they will germinate very early. 
Prick Off into boxes and remove to a cold frame when large enough. 

CENTAUREA— Of this genus C. cyanus is the Cornflower and C. mos- 
chata the Sweet Sultan. Both are annual in duration. Seeds will ger- 
minate in the open ground. C. americana is another good annual species 
which is sometimes grown for Summer cut flowers; the color is pale 
rose. C. babylonica is a good species to plant in the back part of an 
herbaceous border; the foliage is silvery white; flowers thistle-like, 
bright yellow. The plant reaches a height of from 6 to 12 feet. Increased 
by division during the latter part of March. C. montana is the peren- 
nial Cornflower, blooming during the greater part of Summer. There 
are forms with lilac, rose, red, white and sulphur colored flowers. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 121 

CERASTIUM BIEBERSTEINH— A dwarf plant with a dense mass of 
growths; flowers pure white: in bloom during May. The leaves are 
very woolly, giving the plant a whitish appearance all the year round. 
It stands our hot Summers better even than the well-known C. tomen- 
tosum (Snow in Summer.) This is a species with smaller and lighter 
colored foliage. Both are used for edging in beds or borders. The 
plants may be divided very early in the season with or without roots 
and replanted with long stems, deep in the soil, well firmed, and kept 
moist until they begin to grow. C. Biebersteinii is easily raised from 
seeds. 0. grandiflora is a green-leaved species well adapted for growing 
in dense carpet-like masses over rocks. 

CHEIRANTHUS CHEIRI (Wallflower)— A plant much grown in Europe, 
where the climate is very favorable to its perfect development. In the 
warmer parts of America its period of blooming is but a short one. The 
seeds are sown in April, and as soon as large enough the seedlings are 
planted out where they are to flower the following Spring. There are 
many fine double forms, some of which have varietal names. Double 
flowering kinds can be raised from seed. The colors of the flowers are 
yellow, and reddish brown. 

CHELIDONIUM MAJUS FL0RE=PLEN0 (Double Celandine)— A reliable 
plant for half-shaded positions in woods. It is especially at home 
among damp rocks, growing in vegetable humus. In such positions it 
will reproduce itself from seeds. The double form is smaller growing 
than the single-flowered plant. The foliage of both has a bright green 
appearance for the^greater part of the Summer. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS* 

For nearly ten months out of the twelve Chrysanthemums are so 
little seen that when the flowers are in season they are eagerly welcomed 
by the flower-buying public as a change from the blossoms of Spring 
and Summer. There may be a change from the stiff and artificial look- 
ing flower, which is grown on single stems, to the more natural looking 
spray with smaller flowers; but it is safe to say that the Queen of 
Autumn will remain popular in some shape or other for a long time to 
come. Within the last ten years the cutlivation of this flower has made 
rapid strides. The size of the blooms is due to this improved cultiva- 
tion quite as much as to an improvement in the varieties by selection of 
sports and cross breeding during that time. Many good kinds have 
been raised, but these kinds, when grown according to old methods, do 
not show the wonderful improvement that is claimed for them. Indoor 
bench culture and growing one flower to a plant is the means by which 
the flowers are developed to their utmost size. 

Stock Plants— Selected roots for this purpose should be heeled in on 
the bench of a house where they can be kept cool; a temperature high 
enough to keep out frost is best. If such accommodation can not be 
spared the next best place is a frame around which stable 1 bedding is 



122 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

banked up level with the sash. Give abundance of ventilation in favor- 
able weather and cover the sash when there is danger to the plants from 
frost. 

Propagating for General Crop— The ideal months for this operation 
are April and May, as then the cuttings are in good condition and the 
temperature is not too high to make the operation a difficult one. For 
cutting material the moderately thick shoots should be chosen, avoid- 
ing those which are very succulent, or those which are weak and show 
long spaces between the leaf joints. The short, stocky, soft growths are 
best, and should be preferred to all others. The early-flowered kinds 
should be given attention first. Put the cuttings in the sand bed, and 
during the rooting process a high temperature with a stagnant atmos- 
phere should be avoided. When the roots are from one-half to three- 
quarters of an inch long the cuttings should be potted, as their roots 
weaken by a longer stay in the sand. Put in thumb pots, using soil a 
little lighter than the regular potting compost and obtained by adding 
a small quantity of leaf soil. In this stage keep them in the same tem- 
perature as that in which they were rooted until their roots show 
through the ball of soil. They should then be removed to a cold frame, 
standing them on a bottom of sifted ashes. As soon as the plants show 
signs of needing a shift they should be put in 3-inch pots, and as a pre- 
caution against hardening of the stems they should be plunged in the 
ashes, and during excessively warm weather some leaf soil should be 
thrown over the tops of the pots to help in keeping the roots cool. 
Planting may be proceeded with by the beginning of June for the early 
flowering varieties, taking care that the plants are well watered before 
being knocked out of their pots. 

Late Flowering Plants— To extend the season of some of the latest 
flowering varieties till Christmas the cuttings should be taken late, and 
as soon as rooted keep them in a growing condition to prevent the 
wood getting hard. Growing points of previously potted cuttings make 
good wood, if they can be kept from wilting during the rooting process; 
but this operation is somewhat difficult after the middle of July. Too 
much shade will cause damping and too little favors wilting, so close 
observation will be necessary to hit the exact conditions. The single- 
leaf cuttings are easiest to root at this season. If the sand be rough 
grained and free from foreign material, have the leaf with the under sur- 
face lying flat on the sand. Keep the plants shaded for some time after 
they are planted out. Very short stems are only avoided by supplying 
conditions favorable to growth. 

Selecting the Bud— There are two kinds of buds, known as " crown" 
and " terminal." The crown bud appears directly on the end of the shoot, 
and is naturally the first seen. In some varieties, particularly the early 
ones, this is the proper bud to select to develop into a flower, but in 
some well-known kinds growers do not agree as to which is the proper 
bud to select. There is no doubt, however, that with some soils, also 
under certain cultural methods, the proper bud to " take" under those 
conditions would be the wrong one under others. The terminal bud 
shoots are usually three in number and develop from the axils of the 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 123 

leaves below the crown bud. One of these bud shoots is allowed to 
remain when a terminal bud is selected, and the other two pinched off 
together with the crown bud. The terminal bud is the one selected in 
the large majority of varieties; it consists of the end bud, or that which 
terminates the selected lateral shoot. Other buds will, in course of time, 
appear in the axils of the leaves of this shoot; these must also be 
removed. 

Specimen Plants — These are not grown so much as they were a few 
years ago, owing to the demand for pot plants beyond a certain size 
being very limited. Plants which can be sold at a moderate figure give 
the best results, and for this purpose they can be grown with very little 
attention, compared with pot-grown specimens, if they be planted out 
in the field, and attention given them occasionally during dry weather 
with water and the cultivator. Pinch to produce bushy plants. The 
number of times that pinching should be done must be governed by the 
kind of plant wanted; if only a few stems one pinching may be sufficient. 
In September the plants should be transferred to suitable sized pots. If 
protected from the sun and given a moist atmosphere for a few days 
after the transfer they will show no bad results. Plants for pots are 
also grown on benches which have been occupied during the Winter by 
Carnations. They are lifted and potted in time so as not to interfere 
with the housing of field-grown plants of Carnations. In either case 
May is early enough to start the plants. Specimen plants of the largest 
size are started from cuttings as early as December, and from that time 
on till the end of January. The cuttings should be fairly strong, and 
either put separately in thumb pots or rooted in the sand bed. The 
plants must never be allowed to go to rest, and should be kept in healthy 
vigor from the start. During the Winter a position near the glass, in a 
house running north and south, suits them well. The best plants are 
grown in the house from start to finish; but in this case they take a 
large amount of space. 

Soil— The Chrysanthemum is not fastidious as to soil, but being a 
gross feeder at least one-fourth of the bulk of the soil should be of well- 
rotted cow manure, the remainder, loam. Four or five inches in depth 
for benches is sufficient, and before the plants are put in position it is 
made firm by tramping, or, in the case of side benches, by pounding 
with a brick. If the soil is dry, give a good watering a day or two be- 
fore planting. Syringing should be practiced several times daily while 
the plants are growing; this, together with full ventilation, will provide 
perfect atmospheric conditions. Watering should not be overdone at 
any time; the condition of the surface soil will readily suggest when the 
operation is necessary. 

Ventilation— This is a very essential item in the cultivation of the 
Chrysanthemum indoors. To one unacquainted with the exact atmos- 
pheric conditions under which the best flowers are grown in a green- 
house, it would seem somewhat strange that a hardy herbaceous plant 
should be cooped up in a hothouse all Summer; but this is far from being 
the case, because with abundant ventilation top and bottom, and fre- 
quent syringing, the house is kept in a more favorable state for their 



124 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

growth than one would imagine; and in the absence of sun the condi- 
tions are much more favorable than outdoors. If there are no means of 
side ventilation provided, panes of glass should be removed to let in all 
the air possible. The doors should also be kept open. 

Insects— The number of kinds which are troublesome are small, but 
their representatives are numerous enough. There are several species of 
Aphis, which attack the young shoots; these pests must be combated 
with tobacco in any of its forms. Grasshoppers are also troublesome, 
and they must be attended to individually. Caterpillars are best pre- 
vented from appearing by catching the perfect insects in the shape of 
moths and butterflies as they appear in the house. When the eggs hatch 
hand picking is the only eificacious means of ridding the plants of the 
caterpillars. 

Types or Races— The varieties common in gardens are divided into nu- 
merous types. The principal ones are as follows: Anemone Type; this 
has the flowers single (all Chrysanthemums have single flowers, but the 
so-called single flowers have the outer florets as they grow in a natural 
state; thatis, having long strap-shaped or tubular florets, usually called 
ray florets; the inner ones are shorter, more or less bell-shaped, yellow 
in color, and are known as disc florets), with the disc florets raised in 
the center. They are regarded more as ornamental garden plants. The 
Pompon Type is not grown to the same extent in America as in Europe, 
where they are principally used out-of-doors for early flowering. The 
Chinese Incurved Type is much grown as a flowering plant indoors. 
The florets curl gradually toward the center of the flower, forming a 
globular head. The Japanese InGurved Type is less incurved than the 
preceding, but few authorities agree as to where the line should be 
drawn. The Reflexed Type, as commonly understood, has the florets 
pointing away from the center of the flower head, or, as the word would 
indicate, curled in the opposite direction to those of the incurved varie- 
ties. The Japanese Types include the tubular and quilled varieties, but 
the boundaries of this»type are also continually shifting. 

Varieties— It would be useless to recommend a list for any particular 
locality. Soils differ to such an extent that those which thrive in one 
place may not turn out the same in another. Again, much depends on 
the customers as to predilection in color, etc. Careful observation will 
quickly suggest the best kinds to grow. Cultivators are usually loath 
to discard a good sort, even though it is an old one. Many of the kinds 
grown in England to-day originated 20 years ago; and in this country 
many growers could not fill the places occupied by some of the kinds 
they grew, which were raised early in the nineties. 

Raising New Varieties— There is nothing to hinder anyone from rais- 
ing new varieties. The operation is of the simplest, and may be accom- 
plished as successfully by the beginner as by those who have been 
engaged at it for years. Seedling raising is simply chance work. To 
go about the work take two good flowers of the same color, which for 
some reason are desirable to blend, shorten the ray florets so as to have 
the stigmas readily accessible. Transfer the pollen from the anthers of 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 125 

one flower to the stigma of the other. Carefully keep them in a dry 
atmosphere until the seeds are ripe. Keep the seeds in paper, properly 
labeled as to parentage, then about the middle of March they can be 
sown. The resulting seedlings will be almost certain to give some 
flowers passably good, probably some as good as the parents, and pos- 
sibly some even better. A great deal depends upon selecting the parents; 
but rules for this cannot be laid down, as the selection of apparently 
unpromising parents will sometimes give good results, showing tha J 
the crossing of plants is little more than guess work. 

Other Species of Chrysanthemum well worth growing are C. uligino- 
sum, a tall growing plant, with large white flowers; very useful for cut- 
ting. It blooms late and must have a deeply worked, rich, moist soil to 
bring the flowers to perfection. If planted in dry soil it remains dwarf 
and unattractive. C. coccineum is better known as Pyrethrum roseum; 
an early Summer blooming species, well worthy of extended culture. 
Hundreds of varieties of it are in cultivation. It is not a difficult plant 
to manage, thriving in well-drained borders; or on rockwork the plants 
are thoroughly at home. They are well suited for providing flowers for 
cutting. There are double forms in white, pink, carmine, rose, lilac and 
yellow. They are increased in Spring by dividing the plants into small 
pieces, and rooting in the sand bed of a cool house before potting. C. 
leucanthemum is the Ox-eye Daisy of the meadows. C. parthenifolium 
aureum is the Golden Feather, used in filling beds or for borders in Sum- 
mer. It is a hardy plant, putting on its gayest colors early in the sea- 
son; but it is more satisfactory when raised annually from seeds. 

CLEnATIS — During July and August one of the most useful plants for 
producing white flowers is the herbaceous Clematis known as C. recta. 
It grows from 2 to 3 feet high and if in deep rich soil the quantity of 
flowers to a plant is very large. In C. tubulosa and C. Davidiana we 
have two blue-flowered species from China. The last named is fragrant. 
They are reliable plants for the herbaceous border, growing about 2 feet 
high. They are all increased from seeds sown as soon as gathered; also 
from division of the crowns, and by cuttings taken from the plants be- 
fore coming into flower. 

COREOPSIS— C. lanceolata and C. grandiflora are yellow-flowered 
composites, much used for Summer cut flowers. Old plants may be 
divided, but they are best raised from seeds, and the young plants put 
out early where they are to bloom. C. verticillata is of little service for 
cutting, but owing to the finely divided foliage it is a desirable border 
plant. Easily increased by division. 

DELPHINIUn (Larkspur)— The species are numerous, most of them 
being choice border perennials requiring deep, rich soil. They are propa- 
gated principally by cuttings of the young growths in early Spring from 
seeds sown about the beginning of March, and by division of the roots 
when dormant in Autumn or late Winter. D. grandiflorum and D. 
formosum have numerous fine varieties, which are much grown for cut 
flowers. 



126 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

DIANTHUS— Carnation Pink* 

There are nearly a hundred distinct species, many of which are in cul- 
tivation. Most of them are desirable as border or rockery plants. They 
usually make dense tufts of grassy-like growths. Nearly all have attrac- 
tive flowers. D. alpinus and D. glacialis are true Alpine plants, seldom 
seen in cultivation, and thriving indifferently. D. barbatus is the Sweet 
William. There are innumerable forms in cultivation. Good strains are 
secured from seed. D. caesius (Cheddar Pink) stands our hot Summers 
well— a useful speciesfor the rockery. D. deltoides and D. d. alba (Maiden 
Pink), should be raised indoors during the Autumn months and planted 
out early. A very free blooming species, D. petrseus (Rock Pink), grows 
about 6 inches high. D. plumarius is the parent of the garden Pinks, of 
which there are many named double sorts in cultivation. They are prop- 
agated by cuttings taken in the Fall; they root very readily in cold 
frames. Care must be taken to plant them out before they start into 
growth in the Spring. C. chinensis, the Chinese Pink, is a biennial, and 
to have it at its best it should be treated as such instead of as an annual. 
When sown in Spring the plants will flower during Summer, but not 
nearly as abundantly as from Autumn-raised plants. The varieties from 
this species are numerous; all of the kinds are desirable, making very 
handsome border plants of moderate size. 

DIANTHUS CARYOPHYLLUS. 

This is the species from which the Carnation of to-day has sprung. 
Variation in the flowers, the result of continuous cultivation under arti- 
ficial and highly favorable circumstances, produced in the first place, 
well marked varieties; these variations were perpetuated by cuttings, 
and from them by means of cross-breeding and from sports distinct 
races have been evolved, gradually showing a wider range of color and 
habit. In America the climatic conditions are peculiarly favorable for 
the development of the flower under glass, and little by little a race has 
been obtained perfectly adapted to Winter production of bloom. Not 
many years have elapsed since the best cultivators of plants would have 
predicted a short life for the Carnation raised under glass, and this 
would probably be the case were its entire life, or rather the lives of 
several generations, spent in this way. But the utmost vigor is imparted 
to the plants shortly after the cutting stage is passed by their cultiva- 
tion out-of-doors for the best part of the Summer. Another very favora- 
ble means, which is without doubt highly instrumental in maintaining 
and strengthening the vigor of the race, is the raising of new varieties 
from seed. The development of the wonderful blooms of to-day, as rep- 
resented in such varieties as Ethel Crocker, Mrs. Lawson, Genevieve 
Lord, Mrs. George M. Bradt, Jubilee, White Cloud and others too numer- 
ous to mention, dates back only a very few years, when the blooms 
were of very ordinary dimensions, stems weak and calyx often imperfect. 
Cultivation and environment have undoubtedly to be credited with part 
of the success attained, but judicious selection and rejection are the pri- 
mary agents which have been instrumental in producing those results. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 127 

Propagating House and Benches— The ideal propagating house is the 
north part of a span-roofed house, with a partition of boards, leaving 
a space of about 4i/ 2 feet available for bench and passage way. The 
latter need only be wide enough for one to move about in comfortably. 
The floor should be made of concrete, so that it can be kept scrupulously 
clean at all times. The length of the house should, of course, vary with 
the needs of the establishment. The bench should run close up to the 
side of the house and the front part, or that nearest the passageway, 
nailed up with boards, with a swinging door on leather hinges every 
few feet to increase or diminish the temperature of the sand by allowing 
heat to escape. It is a good plan to have one of the ends hotter than 
the other, not necessarily for Carnations, but for cuttings of other 
plants. Valves should be so arranged in the heating pipes of this part 
of the establishment that the heat may be under perfect control to suit 
the various uses to which it may be put. When a specially constructed 
propagating house is not available, a part of an ordinary growing 
house, preferably the north side, should be selected for the purpose. The 
conditions favorable to the process of rooting are: Sufficient humidity 
to prevent the cuttings from wilting, and protection against the sun's 
rays, which cause an evaporation of moisture from the leaves of the 
cuttings greater than can be spared, owing to the inability of the cut- 
ting to replace the loss quickly from the moisture in the sand. 

Sand — When there is a choice, a rather large grained sand and one free 
from all impurities should be selected; from 3 to 4 inches deep will be 
sufficient. 

Cuttings— These may be put in any time during the Winter months, 
but February is the safest time for the ordinary crop. Those rooted 
previous to that month are apt to put on a spindling growth, owing 
to root accommodation being necessarily of an unfavorable nature. 
Eestricted root room has a tendency to promote hardening of the stem 
and firmness in the foliage, and while the Carnation is in reality an ever- 
green shrub, it is a soft wooded one, and should be kept in a growing 
state from the cutting to the flowering plant. The cuttings are usually 
pulled from the plant; this is the worst possible method, because the 
exceedingly delicate vessels in the immediate neighborhood of the break 
are strained and displaced, according to the tension exerted in severing. 
They strike all right, evidently so, but they should be severed with a 
knife. 

riaterial for Cuttings— In this as in other matters, judicious selection 
of the material to form future plants will go a long way in determining 
whether these plants will attain the maximum state in healthy vigor, 
combined with flower productiveness. It does not take a very experi- 
enced Carnationist to tell at a glance whether the growths are flabby, 
as a result of being forced in too high and humid an atmosphere, or crisp 
and stocky, owing to having been subjected to favorable conditions. 
Grassy growths at the base of the plant are avoided, as they show a 
tendency to perpetuate this condition to a degree unfavorable to florifer- 
ousness. As the extra floriferous nature of a single branch of a tree or 
shrub can be perpetuated by propagating from that branch, in like man- 



128 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

ner the best material for cuttings is formed on the flowering branches of 
the Carnation. They are found in the axils of the older leaves, and 
should be taken when they are from two 2 to 3 inches long. 

Treatment During Rooting— The leaves of the cuttings are sometimes 
shortened back at the tips, but this is immaterial, and the practice has 
arisen probably through a desire to have the batch look uniform in size 
and to economize space. Each cutting should be dibbled in by itself, to 
insure perfect rooting conditions; but by making a cut in the sand with 
a small, flat trowel, guided by a narrow strip of wood placed and held 
firmly against the last row of cuttings (this precaution will prevent the 
loosening of the sand next the cuttings by the action of the trowel), the 
operation is hastened. The temperature should be from 50 to 55 de- 
grees at first, increasing to 60 degrees later on. After rooting has com- 
menced examine the cuttings so that potting or boxing maybe completed 
before the roots get weak in the sand. It may safely be commenced, 
when the roots are three-quarters of an inch long, and finished before 
they are over 1}4 inches. After the cuttings are potted, or boxed, keep 
them shaded for a time, gradually giving them the benefit of full sun- 
shine and an abundance of air. Before planting out time they should be 
removed to a cool frame. The soil may be made up of loam, leaf mould 
and sand. 

Planting in the Field— In this locality the plants are safe out in the 
field by the end of March, but climatic conditions are the only safe guide 
for different localities. The ground is previously prepared by manuring, 
and plowing and harrowing, and the^ plants set out 15 inches apart 
each way, or 15 inches apart and 3 feet between the rows, according to 
the method of cultivating. Let the plants be in the ground some time 
before getting their first pinching. Cultivating must be assiduously 
practiced during their stay in the field. It serves three purposes: Keeps 
the roots cool, prevents loss of water by evaporation, and discourages 
the growth of weeds. Flower shoots are nipped out as soon as they 
appear until the plants have made sufficient growth, or a short time 
before they are removed to their flowering quarters. 

Lifting and Planting— This is done at different seasons, sometimes 
early, but usually in September. In some soils it is difficult to lift with 
a ball; in others, easy. Some growers shake the soil from the roots, 
no matter in what soil plants have been grown. As the Carnation is 
rapid in forming feeding roots it is easy to understand why it is desirable 
to have the roots entirely in the most favorable soil, such as that with 
which the benches should be filled; but the safer and more logical 
method is to have a moderate amount of soil accompanying the roots 
from the field to the bench. When the plants are lifted without soil 
clinging to the roots they should be protected from the drying influence 
of the atmosphere as much as possible. As soon as lifted place them in 
a receptacle, from which they do not have to be removed until they are 
planted in the bench soil. Put the roots about the same depth in the 
bench as they were in the soil from which they were taken ; make mod- 
erately firm; water well and shade for the first few days. Use a shade 
which is easily removed. A solution of freshly mixed Indurine may be 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 129 

applied with a garden syringe; test it before applying to ascertain if it 
comes off easily, as it sometimes sticks on longer than wanted. 

Soil — This should be of a friable loam, mixed thoroughly some time in 
advance of using with one-fifth of its bulk of rotted stable manure. The 
depth of soil may be from 4 to 5 inches. The plants are given space 
according to the variety. In this connection it may be stated that a 
good place to look for the kind of flower common 25 years ago is on a 
bench the soil of which is completely hidden by the plants. As much 
fight as possible should be admitted to all parts of the plant, and it is 
as important that air should have free circulation among the plants. 

Supports — The different methods are getting to be about as numerous 
as the varieties of Carnations. A good circular wire support should be 
easy to apply, easily removed and stored, give the minimum amount 
of shade to the plants and be moderate in cost. Several of the designs 
on the market are satisfactory in all of the above particulars, excepting 
the cost, which, while as low as one could expect, is the only hindrance 
to their use. 

Temperature— A minimum temperature of 50 degrees, rising during 
the day to 65 degrees, will be found the proper range for the best results. 
The humidity of the atmosphere must be greatest immediately after the 
plants are benched to induce the formation of new feeding roots, gradu- 
ally reducing it when the plants show signs of having become estab- 
lished. 

Syringing — In dull weather there is usually enough moisture in the 
atmosphere for the needs of the plants, so far as atmospheric conditions 
are concerned. In bright, sunny weather, syringing should, of course, 
be more frequently practiced. No rules can be laid down for this, how- 
ever, as much depends upon the nature of the floor of the house in the 
quantity of moisture it gives off, together with the condition of the 
bench soil. If the atmosphere be too dry, combined with dryness at the 
roots, the foliage suffers to a certain extent, producing conditions 
favorable for the attacks of red spider, aphides and fungoid diseases. 
To strike the happy medium good judgment as the resultof close obser- 
vation will be necessary. 

Feeding— The plants by their behavior will suggest the necessity for 
this. When manure is given in the liquid state it should be weak and 
applied often rather than in strong doses at long intervals. Top-dress- 
ing with manures and fertilizers should be made the subject of careful 
experiment. It is not safe to follow given rules, as what may suit some 
soils will not act the same way with others. 

Disbudding — The lateral buds should be removed as soon as they are 
large enough to be handled. If allowed to develop, they are simply a 
drain on the resources of the terminal bud; and, although they look 
well with the flower, still large flowers without them bring higher 
prices. 

Ventilation is of primary importance at all times. The houses ought 
to be closed only when the outside temperature is too.low to permit of 
airing. 



130 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

Varieties — The best varieties to grow in any one place cannot be 
pointed out except by experiment, as there is no variety which does 
equally well in all soils. When once the best sorts for any particular 
soil are selected they should not be discarded until new and improved 
or other kinds have been tested for at least a season. 

Carnations to Follow Chrysanthemums— Where Chrysanthemums are 
grown in large numbers on benches it is sometimes difficult to decide 
what should occupy the space vacated by them. Carnations have been 
tried with successful results. Boxes with easily removed sides and ends 
are placed close together in the field, filled with suitable soil, and the 
plants, six or eight, according to the width of the bench, put out in each 
box. On the approach of unfavorable weather the plants are given the 
protection of a frame until the indoor space is ready for them. The bot- 
toms of the boxes are of stout material, and when placed side by side 
on the frame work of the bench they may either be laid on the old bencfi 
boards or take their place. Soil is added after they are in position, to 
make the surface level. If necessary, rested roses may be substituted 
for Carnations. Souvenir du President Carnot and Kaiserin Augusta 
Victoria give good satisfaction by this method. 

MARGUERITE CARNATIONS— These were introduced about eight 
years ago as Summer flowering Carnations. They are very free in 
blooming, fragrant, and quite varied in color. To have an early crop 
of flowers seedlings may be wintered in frames, and another sowing 
made early in March. In most places they may be safely put out in 
April. 

DICENTRA SPECTAB1LIS (Bleeding Heart).— One of the most beauti- 
ful herbaceous plants in cultivation, flowering usually in May, splendidly 
adapted for forcing. It is one of the first plants to push its growths 
above tbe soil. In some localities it is apt to suffer from late frosts. 
The time for propagating is just before the plant starts into growth. 
Division of the crowns is the most reliable method. Dig up the plants, 
saving every root; wash free of soil and preserve every piece of the plant 
having a bud. Those pieces of the roots which are not necessary to the 
buds should be cut into lengths of about 3 inches and put in boxes, keep- 
ing them uniformly moist. While they will not all grow, a certain pro- 
portion of them will pay for the labor. The divided pieces may be potted 
or boxed, according to fancy, using sandy soil to induce a good growth. 
Pieces of the crown on which there is a number of buds, but not enough 
roots to warrant further division, may be gently forced into growth, 
and when the young shoots are of sufficient length, taken off and rooted. 

D. eximia is not so tall growing as the above named; the leaves are 
more finely divided and the flowering period is much longer. 

DICTAMNUS FRAXINELLA (Burning Bush)— A good, old-fashioned 
border plant, growing 2 feet in height, with spikes of red or white 
flowers. The plants should be given a good permanent position, as they 
dislike removal. Increased by seed. 

DIGITALIS PURPUREA (Foxglove, Witches' Thimbles)— One of the 
most stately of hardy perennials. The flowers, which are large and bell- 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 131 

shaped, are arranged in very long racemes. The color is usually rose 
and white. Although perennial, it is generally treated as a biennial. 
Plants are easily raised from seeds. 

DODECATHEON (American Cowslip)— D. media, the only species 
which I have seen in a wild state, grows in shaded positions, but it 
makes most of its growth while the surrounding trees are leafless. The 
soil is composed largely of vegetable humus. Most of the species thrive 
well, but are not much grown in gardens; this is probably because their 
period of bloom is short and the plants are apt to be lost sight of and 
neglected when out of bloom. D. Clevelandii and D. Hendersonii are 
Calif ornian species of great beauty. Many varieties of hybrid origin are 
cultivated in Europe, but they are seldom seen in America. The seeds 
should be sown in places where they can remain undisturbed for at least 
a year, as after germinating little progress is made the first season 
beyond the formation of a root stock. 

DORONlCun (Leopard's Bane)— Useful plants, with yellow, daisy- 
like flowers, blooming in May. D. plantagineum excelsum is one of the 
best. Other good kinds are D. austriacum, D. caucasicum and D. par- 
dalianches. They should be increased by division in the Fall. 

ERPETION (Viola) RENIFORME— A very dwarf plant, covering the 
ground rapidly by means of runners, which are thrown out in great pro- 
fusion. It blooms all Summer if given a shaded position on the rockery. 
The flowers are small, blue and white; very showy. It will thrive in 
any kind of soil if kept slightly moist during dry weather. In the lati- 
tude of Washington, D. C, it is perfectly hardy. It is increased by seeds 
or by division. 

FARFUGIUM GRANDE— This fine Japanese plant is now known as 
Senecio Kaempferi aureo-maculata. It is among the best constitutioned 
plants for the dwelling house. There is a beautiful kind with white 
spotted leaves, which I have only grown for a couple of seasons, but I 
suppose it to be as hardy as the yellow spotted one, which, by the way, 
has stood outdoors at Washington, D. C, for the last 15 years. Old 
plants, with numerous growths, will stand division best in early Spring. 
Give the pieces a week in the sand bed previous to potting, in order to 
start new roots. They thrive well in a loamy soil, well drained. The 
pieces are potted after midsummer in a compost consisting largely of 
leaf mould and sand, placed under cover of sash on the approach of cold 
weather, to preserve the leaves in a fresh state, and brought indoors 
when wanted to bloom. 

FATSIA (Aralia) PAPYRIFERA (Rice Paper Plant)— In this latitudethe 
plants are annually killed to the ground, but they send up shoots in 
Spring from the roots, which grow very rapidly, making very attractive 
growths, sometimes 6 feet high, so that it may be treated as an herba- 
ceous plant instead of a shrub, which it really is in its native country 
and in localities with mild Winters. Its habit of growth resembles to a 
certain extent that of the Castor Bean, but the plant is furnished with 
leaves and retains them from the ground up all through the season. 
Propagation is by pieces of the roots cut into lengths of 2 or 3 inches. 



132 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

The operation may be performed any time late in Fall, or very early in 
Spring. The roots should be put in boxes of soil and started into 
growth in a greenhouse about the beginning of March. When potted 
they may be put in a cold frame early. 

FERULA COHMUNIS— This plant is grown principally for its very 
large, handsome leaves, which are very much divided, giving it a 
feathery appearance. The leaves, which are sometimes 5 feet in width 
and fully as long, are divided seven times, the leaflets being only one six- 
teenth of an inch broad. The flower stalks attain a height of from 6 to 
10 feet. It is one of the earliest plants to show above ground, some- 
times pushing up the first leaves late in the Fall. After blooming, which 
occurs about midsummer, it goes to rest, losing all of its leaves before 
the end of July. The seeds, which are ripened in great abundance, 
should be sown about the middle of March and encouraged to make all 
the growth possible before the resting period. 

FRAGARIA INDICA (Rock Strawberry)— The flowers of this species 
are bright yellow. The fruit is dark red and produced all through the 
Summer and early Fall months. It sometimes increases so rapidly that 
it becomes a weed. 

FUNKIA (Plantain Lily)— A small genus of very handsome foliage and 
flowering plants of the Lily family; most of them are from Japan. There 
are numerous garden forms all well worth growing, as they make large 
clumps, and the foliage is, in every case, ornamental. All the variegated 
forms are well marked, preserving their leaves well all through the sea- 
son, and thrive with little attention. 

F. ovata has blue or white flowers and large, broad leaves. The va- 
riety F. o. marginata has the foliage margined with white. F. lanicifo- 
lia, one of the species most frequently met with, has short, narrow 
leaves; flowers small, white, with a purplish tinge. This has several 
prettily variegated forms. All of the kinds are propagated by division 
of the crowns early in the season. If divided to single growths the pieces 
should be potted and kept under cover for a time to encourage growth. 
They thrive best in heavy, rich, loamy soil. 

F. Sieboldiana is a strong -growing species, with large glaucous leaves. 
The flowers are white, tinged with lilac— a very desirable species thriving 
well in sun or shade. 

F. subcordata has very large, pure white flowers on long stalks. The 
leaves are light green, but somewhat soft. In places exposed to full 
sunshine the foliage is apt to suffer; it should therefore have partial 
shade. Blooming late in the season, it is one of the handsomest herba- 
ceous plants in cultivation. 

GAILLARDIA ARISTATA — There are several handsome flowered varie- 
ties in cultivation. They are exceedingly effective border plants. Eaised 
from seed in August or September. 

GALAX APHYLLA— A dwarf evergreen, the leaves of which are much 
used by florists in forming backgrounds for floral pieces. It thrives well 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 133 

in partial shade in the rockery. Increased by division before growth 
begins. 

GENTIAN A (Gentian)— Although these are among the most beautiful 
of hardy plants they will not pay the florist to handle them. With one 
or two exceptions the kinds which are so popular in northern Europe 
do not succeed in the Middle Atlantic States. Our hot, dry Summers are 
against them. G. Andrewsii and G. saponaria are both natives. They 
may be planted in half-shaded situations, where their roots will pene- 
trate deeply. 

GERANIUH SANGUINEUn— This species is about the only satisfac- 
tory one in the genus for our hot, dry Summers. For rock work it is 
probably the best all-round plant grown. It seldom invades the terri- 
tory of other plants, never looks weedy, and is in flower from early till 
late. The flowers are solitary, about l!/2 inches across, crimson. Prop- 
agated by division, or from seed. The plant is quite hardy. 

GYPSOPHILA— G. paniculata is grown to a considerable extent for 
cutting. The flowers are small, whitish, but produced in great profu- 
sion, in large panicles. Increased by seeds. The seedlings must get all 
the light possible, as they are very liable to get weak if kept at all 
shaded. G. prostrata is a very dwarf species suitable for rock work. 
Increased from cuttings in Spring or Fall. 

, HELIANTHUS (Sunflower)— The perennial species are, for the most 
part, useful late blooming plants. In favorable positions some of the 
species grow very tall. They are among the easiest plants to increase 
by division. H. decapitatus, single flowered, usually grows about 6 feet 
high. H. a. multiflorus varies considerably; in some forms the florets 
are arranged like those in the anemone-flowered chrysanthemum ; other 
forms have them of a uniform size. A most useful plant for supplying 
cut bloom. H. orgyalis blooms in September. H. rigidus and H. mollis 
are both good species. 

HELLEBORUS (Christmas Rose)— There are about a dozen species, 
with numerous varieties principally of hybrid origin. All of them are 
well worth growing because of their early-blooming nature. H. niger is 
the true Christmas Rose, which, under favorable conditions, will some- 
times flower in December, and in colder parts of the country it comes 
into bloom after one or two genial days. H. n. altifolius has flowers 
much larger than the type. H. colchicus, a species with deep purple 
flowers, blooms early in March. H. orieutalis (the Lenten Rose) has 
rose-colored flowers — one of the best in this latitude. Among its many 
varieties H. o. guttatus is white flowered with purple-spotted sepals. 
Propagation is effected by root division. Seeds of most of them are 
freely ripened. If sown as soon as gathered, and kept in a cold frame, 
they germinate well; but the seedlings take two or three years to make 
flowering plants. 

HEMEROCALLIS (Day Lily)— H. fulva, the species so common in 
waste places all over the Eastern States, is not a native; but with H. 
flava, less commonly seen, it has escaped from cultivation. H. graminea 



134 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

is the earliest to bloom, opening during the latter half of May. H. 
Dumortieri has orange-yellow flowers tinged with brown. H. Midden- 
dorfii is deep golden yellow. The rarer species are successfully raised 
from seed sown in Summer as soon as ripe, and the young plants 
allowed to remain in the seed boxes until the following Spring, when 
they may be planted out in rows to increase in size. The double flowered 
and variegated forms of H. fulva should be increased by division. They 
are all desirable border plants. 

HEUCHERA (Alum Root)— Of this genus there are some twenty species 
native of North America, most of which are hardly worth cultivating. 
There is one, however, which is rightly considered as being among the 
most ornamental of late Spring blooming perennials; this is H. san- 
guinea. It has long panicles of reddish pink or white flowers. Large 
plants which show signs of weakness should be lifted, divided, and re- 
planted. They will need this treatment about oncein two years, as they 
are inclined to get weak when they remain long in one place. October 
is the best month for dividing. Seeds should be sown during March, in 
the greenhouse. The seedlings are quite small at first, and they should 
be allowed to make considerable headway before being potted off. 

HEPATICA TRILOBA— One of the earliest Spring-flowering plants. 
In their native habitats they are usually found growing on southern 
slopes partially shaded by the foliage of trees and shrubs in Summer, 
but with the benefit of full sunshine when developing flowers and seeds. 
Of the above species the varieties are very numerous, some of them hav- 
ing been long under cultivation in European gardens, where they are 
highly prized. H. t. rubra is bright red; H. t. alba, white; H. t. coeru- 
lea, lilac. There are also double red and double blue varieties, the 
former being very common, the latter somewhat scarce. H. angulosa 
is a distinct species, with very large, blue flowers. If allowed to remain 
in the same position for several years they form very largeclumps. Prop- 
agation of the varieties is easiest accomplished by division in Autumn. 

IBERIS (Candytuft) — The perennial species are in reality dwarf, ever- 
green shrubs. They are attractive in appearance all the year round. 
They come in bloom the latter part of April and last till the end of May. 
There are about half a dozen species and varieties. I. sempervirens and 
I. s. superba are the best; they grow from 9 to 12 inches high. I. sem- 
perflorens is a taller growing species with large, pure white flowers. I. 
Tenoreana grows about 6 inches high. It blooms in May; flowers pur- 
plish white. I. corretefolia has the flowers in flat, compact heads. I. 
gibraltarica is the largest of all; the flowers are white tinged with pink. 
It is somewhat straggling in growth. I. g. hybrida is more compact, 
with the flowers at first white, changing to rosy purple. Although most 
of the species produce seed freely enough the seedlings are of a straggling 
growth for the first season. Much better plants are raised from good- 
sized cuttings taken<at the end of September, and put in sand, in a cold 
propagating frame. If kept close and moist they will root well. The 
cuttings, when rooted, should be put in 3-inch pots, and plunged in a 
cold frame for the Winter. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 135 

• 
IRIS— A large genus. There are upward of 100 species; the varieties 
of some of them are numerous. The genus is divided into two sections. 
Id one section, known as Xiphions, the species have tuberous root- 
stocks; one or two of them, such as I. reticulata and I. persica, produce 
the flowers before the leaves. Most of the species have thick rhizomes, 
which creep along the surface of the soil, or a short distance beneath. 
To this section most of the very numerous garden varieties belong. They 
are known as German Irises, but having been in cultivation for a long 
time, it is impossible to tell just from what species some of them have 
originated. The species which are commonly included among the Ger- 
man Irises are I. neglecta, I. squalens, I. variegata and I. germanica. 
Numerous varieties have sprung from each species, and from these there 
are evidently many cross breeds. I. germanica is a handsome species. 
I. g. alba is pure white, very early in blooming, and forces well. I; g. 
velveteen has dark purple falls and standards. The flowers of the 
known varieties of the I. phylla have a white ground, with the margins 
marked lavender and purple. Mme. Chereau is a well-known form. 
I. plicata is white frilled with blue. The varieties of I. amcena have the 
standards usually white and the falls variously marked with violet blue. 
In I. variegata the very numerous varieties have the standards yellow; 
the falls are of a wide range of color — dark yellow, maroon, dark purple 
and crimson brown. The forms of I. squalens have the standards copper- 
bronze and fawn colored, and the falls among other colors are maroon, 
purple, bronzy-yellow, violet and lavender. I. pallida has lavender 
standards, and the falls of the same color shaded with rose. I. p. dal- 
matica is a very large and sweetly-scented flower— one of the best in 
cultivation; the standards and falls are deep lavender. In the varieties 
of I. neglecta the standards range in color from lavender to purple, and 
the falls crimson, purple, violet, white and intermediate shades. I. 
florentina is almost pure white, and comes into flower from the 15th to 
the" end of May. I. pumila, a dwarf species, is usually out of bloom early 
in May ; it has many fine varieties. I. cristata is a native of the Eastern 
States, and is well adapted for half-shaded places in the rockery. It is 
the dwarfest of all the rhizomatous species. I. versicolor and I. pseudo- 
acorus, although thriving under conditions which suit most of the gar- 
den forms, will do better when the soil is continually moist. I. graminea 
and I. sibirica are both worthy of cultivation; they have long, narrow 
leaves, and small flowers. I. la-vigata, better known as I. Kaempferi, 
will also thrive in borders, especially when given a deep mulch of well- 
rotted manure; but they show up to better advantage when grown in 
fairly moist ground. This species is one of the latest to bloom ; it has 
many varieties, some of which are very large and showy. The expanded 
flowers, when used for cutting, will not stand much handling; but the 
buds, when nearly full size, will open out when placed in water; in this 
condition they may be shipped long distances. 

Propagation — Most of the bulbous species are offered at reasonable 
prices by dealers. The rhizomatous species and forms may be rapidly 
increased by division. Large masses may be reduced in size and re- 
planted early in March without interfering with the crop of flowers. In 
dividing into smaller pieces, it is better to wait until the plants have 



136 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

completed their growth, when they may be cut in small pieces, heeled in 
where they are slightly protected in Winter, and put in permanent posi- 
tions in March or April. They will stand a rich soil, but should not be 
deeply planted, as they are then liable to decay during wet weather in 
Summer and Autumn. 

KINIPHOFIA ALOIDES— Better known as Tritoma uvaria (Torch 
Lily,) is an old-fashioned, border plant with long, narrow, dark green 
leaves and tall spikes of flowers, at first coral red, changing to orange, 
and subsequently to a greenish yellow. It is a native of South Africa, 
and in localities where the Winters are severe it should, along with the 
other species and varieties, be protected by covering the crowns with 
half-decayed leaves or stable litter. K. a. maxima has larger flowers. 
K. Macowani, is an orange-red flowered species. K. Leichtlinii is one of 
the tallest of the species. There are numerous hybrid forms, all of them 
desirable for the herbaceous border. They thrive best in deep rich soil, and 
in fully exposed situations. Seedlings of most of the kinds may be 
raised, but they are somewhat slow in making flowering plants. Old 
specimens are easily divided, and give good-sized pieces to start with. 

LEONTOPODIUn ALP1NUH (Edelweiss)— Although a native of the 
Alps of Switzerland this plant thrives luxuriantly when planted out on 
rockwork fully exposed to the sun. Seedlings are best raised in.Septem- 
ber and wintered in pots, in a cold frame. When planting out put some 
flat pieces of stone around the bases of the plants. 

LESPEDEZA BICOLOR, also known as Desmodium penduliflorum and 
L. Sieboldii. The plant has a shrub-like growth, reaching from 4 to 6 
feet in height. The flowers, which are small and pea-shaped, are very 
numerously produced in long, pendulous-branched panicles late in the 
season. The colors are rose and white. Cuttings taken before the flowers 
appear will root freely. They should be kept indoors to encourage 
growth before going to rest. Old plants may be divided before starting 
into growth. 

LINDELOFIA SPECTABILIS — A low-growing borage-wort, with 
handsome, bluish-red flowers. It grows 12 to 18 inches high. It is a 
very reliable herbaceous plant, quite hardy and stands the sun well. If 
seeds are sown late in Summer, the plants will bloom the following season. 

LOBELIA— The native species L. cardinalis and L. syphilitica are, in 
this latitude, much more satisfactory than any of the gaudy-flowered 
forms of L. fulgens and L. splendens. Seedlings should be raised in late 
Summer to provide flowering plants the following season. L. cardinalis 
is among the handsomest of herbaceous plants; the flowers are bright 
scarlet. It must have abundance of water w*hen growing. L. syphi- 
litica, a blue flowered species, will succeed well in a drier soil. 

LYCHNIS— There are numerous species in this genus which are desira- 
ble as border or rockery plants. L. vespertina flore-pleno has large 
double white flowers; increased by root cuttings. When sown late in 
Autumn and kept indoors, seedlings of L. fulgens and its varieties are in 
good condition for planting out by April. The scarlet Lychnis, L. chal- 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 137 

cedonica, is a midsummer bloomer; it should be lifted and replanted 
every second year. The double kinds are increased by division. The 
double flowered variety of L. viscaria has an extended blooming period. 
It is an erect-growing plaDt, usually about a foot high, with rosy red 
flowers. Best increased by division in early Spring. 

L. coronaria (Agrostemma) — This plant has silvery -gray foliage, 
which in itself would be sufficient to insure a place for it in the herba- 
ceous border. The flowers, however, are exceedingly showy. The type 
has red blossoms. There are varieties with crimson, pink and white 
flowers. Seeds should be sown in September; the seedlings pricked off 
into boxes and wintered in a cold frame. They should be planted out 
very early. 

LYSIMACHIA (Loosestrife) — Most of the species are of weedy growth 
and increase rapidly. L. nummularia is the Money-wort or Creeping 
Jenny; useful as a creeper or for hanging baskets or vases. There is a 
beautiful form with yellowish leaves. L. clethroides is a handsome spe- 
cies, growing from 2 to 3 feet high; the flowers, which are white, are 
arranged in long, drooping spikes. It is readily propagated by division. 

LYTHRUM SALICARIA (Purple Loosestrife)— This species grows from 
3 to 4 feet highc The flowers are of a rosy-purple color. Increased by 
division. 

MERTENSIA VIRGINICA (Virginian Cowslip)— There are several 
species of Mertensia all worth cultivating, but unfortunately some are 
not so easily grown as M. virginica. This is by far the showiest species, 
and if the conditions under which it grows in a wild state are imitated, 
there will be no difficulty in its cultivation. In Spring most of its 
growth is made without shade — that; is, before the trees are in leaf. It is 
usually found in damp woods. In this locality its period of blooming is 
from April 15 to the middle of May. It grows from 12 to 18 inches high. 
The leaves have a slightly glaucous hue; the flowers are arranged in 
drooping terminal clusters, reddish-purple in the bud, subsequently 
changing in the open flower to a beautiful light blue. It is one of our 
handsomest native plants. Propagated by division. 

nONARDA (Horse Mint)— These plants, although not averse to 
moisture, will thrive in very dry soil. There are several species, and one 
or two varieties common in gardens. The best known is M. didyma, a 
species with bright scarlet heads of flowers. M. fistulosa has purple 
flowers. M. f. alba is pure white. They are in bloom during midsum- 
mer, and among the easiest plants to increase by division. 

ilORINA LONGIFOLIA— A very choice perennial, reaching 2 feet in 
height. The flowers are produced in whorls arranged on a long stalk. 
The buds are white, changing later to pink and crimson. Seeds of this 
species are easily obtainable. When sown in Spring they do not bloom 
till the following year. 

riYOSOTIS (Forget=me=not)— In this genus there are numerous species, 
most of which are of little value. M. dissitiflora and M. sylvatica are 
commonly cultivated. Seeds may be sown late in Summer to have 



138 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

bushy flowering plants for Spring blooming. There are blue, white, and 
pink forms. In Washington, D. C, they are planted in the Public Gar- 
dens, and along with Pansies they bloom during April and May. They 
are sometimes effectively used among Hyacinths and Tulips, in well- 
protected spots, keeping up a good display of bloom until the time 
arrives for filling the beds with their usual Summer occupants. 

(ENOTHERA (Evening Primrose)— Handsome plants for rock work 
or border. CE. Lamarckiana grows to a height of 5 feet; flowers yel- 
low. It is biennial induration. CE. Fraseri is a dwarf species suitable for 
the rockery. CE. missouriensis has large yellow flowers on trailing stems. 
CE. taraxacifolia is a trailer, with very large, pure white flowers, open- 
ing at night. Plants come up freely from self-sown seed. CE. eximia is 
a choice dwarf species, with very large white flowers. CE. amoena var. 
rubicunda has the flowers deep rose colored; there are several forms. 
All of the kinds are raised from seed sown in September. 

ONONIS (Restharrow)— O. rotundifolia is a very desirable dwarf, 
shrub-like plant, with pea-shaped rose colored flowers. Kaised from 
seed. A native of southern Europe. 

ONOSriA STELLULATUM V. TAURICUM— A dwarf, evergreen plant, 
forming dense tufts of narrow hairy leaves. The flowers, which are 
bright yellow, tubular, and 1% inches long, are arranged in branching 
cymes. The plant is best propagated by seeds, and by cuttings of the 
ripened growths taken during the end of September. They must be 
rooted cool. 

OPHI0P000N— Dwarf evergreen plants, with grass-like foliage. The 
most useful species is O. gracilis; it is used for planting in dense shade 
where few other plants thrive. The leaves are narrow; flowers small, 
white, followed by beautiful blue berries, which continue on the plant 
all Winter. Increased by division in Spring. A. Jaburan is a taller spe- 
cies; the variegated form is a handsome plant. O. japonicus has also 
a variegated form. Both of these are successfully propagated by early 
division. In this locality they stand the Winters unharmed. 

OROBUS (Lathyrus) VERNUS (Bitter Vetch)— This species comes in 
bloom during April and lasts only for a short time. The flowers on 
opening are purple and blue, the purple changing to blue as the blossoms 
mature. Seeds should be sown as 4 soon as ripe. As the plants make 
but little headway during the first season, they should be allowed to 
remain in the seed pan till the following Spring. There are several 
other desirable species, such as O. pannonicus, O. flaccidus and O. 
aurantius. 

PACHYSANDRA— There are only two species in this genus, both of 
which are in cultivation. P. procumbens is a North American plant. 
The flowers are very inconspicuous, produced in March and April at the 
bases of the stems made the preceding year. In. P. terminalis they are 
situated on the ends of the shoots. Both species are evergreen. P. ter- 
minalis is of a brighter green than P. pachysandra. They are very use- 
ful for planting under trees; are deep-rooting and stand drought well. 
Increased by division. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 139 

PAEONIA (Paeony, Peony, or Piony)— This genus is divided into two 
sections or sub-genera— Shrubby and Herbaceous— the last-named sec- 
tion is subdivided into three groups, with well marked botanical charac- 
ters. The double-flowering herbaceous kinds, which bloom during the 
, latter part of May and in June, are varieties of P. albiflora. There are 
hundreds of kinds in cultivation, varying in color from white through 
the different shades of pink to deep crimson. Their successful culture 
demands a deep and well-manured soil, with a heavy mulching of 
manure during the Winter and Spring months. The varieties of the 
European Pseonies come into flower several weeks in advance of the 
Chinese varieties. P. officinalis has double rose, red, and pinkish-white 
forms. P. paradoxa fimbriata has double purple flowers. P. tenuifolia 
flore-pleno bears medium-sized double flowers, bright crimson in color. 
The leaves of this species are of a feathery nature. It is one of the most 
distinct and handsome Pseonies in cultivation. There are several showy 
European species, some of which have numerous single-flowered varie- 
ties. They all bloom much earlier than the Chinese Pseonies, and are 
useful for the embellishment of the herbaceous border and for cutting. 
P. anomala blooms during the first week in May; this sort is sometimes 
sold as P. tenuifolia. The leaf divisions are fewer than in that species 
and broader. P. a. insignis has crimson flowers. P. arietina is the 
earliest species to flower, expanding in this locality by the end of April. 
There are about a dozen distinct varieties. P. Witmanniana is another 
early bloomer. .Of P. officinalis and P. peregrina there are numerous 
single-flowered varieties. The Herbaceous Pseonies are increased by 
seeds and by division of the crowns. The seeds are sown as soon as ripe, 
so that they may germinate the following Spring. They should be 
sown in a frame, and allowed to remain for a year before transplanting. 
Old plants are best divided in October; except with rare kinds the 
divided pieces should be large. Plant deep enough to make certain of 
the crowns being well beneath the surface. 

PAP AVER (Poppy)— In the Herbaceous section of this popular genus 
P. orientale and its variety P. o. bracteatum are the most important 
kinds. There are several forms of each, varying chiefly in the colors of 
the flowers. Most of them are of different shades of scarlet, and very 
large. The plants, according to variety, vary in height from iy 2 to 3 
feet. They bloom during May and June, according to locality. The 
stock is best increased by seed. When the capsules show signs of ripen- 
ing they should be carefully watched, as they open at the top, and a 
slight movement of the atmosphere will displace the seeds. Sow in 
boxes soon as ripe, but not too thickly, so as to do away with the 
necessity of pricking off — an operation which does not succeed as well 
as could be wished. The seedlings will make sufficient headway to pass 
the Winter securely in a cold frame. During March bring into a cool 
house, and when they show signs of growing pot off into 2y 2 or 3-inch 
pots, according to size. They should always be planted from pots, as 
they do not lift well. 

P. nudicaule is a choice species with orange, yellow or white flowers. 
The double forms are often used as cut bloom. In the warmer parts of 



140 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

the country the plants will succeed fairly well if they be raised from seed 
sown during September, and either planted out late or wintered in a 
frame and put out very early. In the colder parts plants are freely 
raised from self-sown seed. It is a species which dislikes extreme heat. 

PENTSTEMON— The garden varieties are the offspring of P. gentia- 
noides and P. Cobaea. In localities where climatic conditions are favor- 
able they are much prized. In this section they are short-lived, owing 
to the extreme heat. There are many extremely handsome species. P. 
(Chelone) barbatus and P. b. Torreyi will thrive almost anywhere, as 
they cover the ground with dense, short growths. The flowers are pro- 
duced in panicles about 3 feet high; they vary in color from light pink 
to carmine. The Pentstemons are very easily increased, at almost any 
time, by division. 

PHLOX— P. subulata (Moss Pink) is the parent of many beautiful 
forms extensively used for the edges of borders and for rock work. In 
April they are covered with myriads of flowers close to the foliage. 
Among the white-flowered forms are P. s. Nelsoni, P. s. aristata and 
P. s. nivalis. P. s. Vivid has rose-colored flowers with carmine center. 
P. s. frondosa is a pink variety with dark center. Their propagation is 
usually effected by cuttings — a slow method. If the plants are kept sup- 
plied with water during September they will emit roots at the bases of 
the principal growths, and during October these may be cut up and 
heeled in on a sheltered border, potted, or removed to permanent posi- 
tions, very early in Spring. Other desirable dwarf species are P. amcena, 
P. reptans and P. divaricata. The well-known and deservedly popular 
herbaceous Phloxes are divided into two sections, early and late flower- 
ing. The first or early blooming section is known as P. suffruticosa, 
being varieties of P. glab^rrima suffruticosa. The late blooming section 
is known as P. decussata, and among the species which have contri- 
buted varieties are P. maculata and P. paniculata. The varieties are 
exceedingly numerous. In recent years some very beautiful forms have 
been sent out. They stand well as cut flowers. The plants should be 
lifted, divided and replanted every second year, as when they remain 
long without removal the panicles are small. Early in March is the 
best time for the operation. Cuttings may be taken from the plants as 
they start into growth and rooted in a temperature suitable for Carna- 
tion cuttings. The growths will be much improved by a heavy mulch- 
ing of manure about the crowns during the growing season. 

PHYGELIUS CAPENSIS is hardy in places where the mercury does not 
fall lower than 10 degrees F. The trouble with this very desirable plant 
is that it continues to grow during the Autumn months instead of going 
to rest. The growth made at this period, however, furnishes good 
material for cuttings, which, if put in the sand bed of a cool house, will 
root in a few days. They may be wintered in a cold frame. 

PHYSALIS FRANCHETTI— The attractive feature of this plant is the 
large red-colored calyx, enclosing a large berry of the same color. It is 
apt to encroach on other plants, so rapidly do the underground stems 
spread. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 141 

PLATYCODON GRANDIFLORUM (Chinese Bellflower)— An erect grow- 
ing plant, with flowers resembling those of the Campanula. P. g. 
Mariesii is a variety of dwarfer habit, and bears larger flowers. The 
roots are thick and fleshy. Seedlings raised early in Spring sometimes 
bloom late the same season. 

PRinULA (Primrose)— There are few of the species but what are 
worth growing. Many of them, however, are unsuited to the climate 
of the Eastern States, it being too cold in Winter and too hot in Sum- 
mer. A few of the species and many of their varieties do well. P. vul- 
garis and the varieties with double yellow, red, purple, white, and lilac 
flowers succeed well if they are given water during the growing period. 
They will even stand in almost full sunshine, but they thrive best in half- 
shaded spots. All of them are best increased by division very early in 
the season. P. elatior is the Oxlip, and what is known as the Cowslip 
is P. veris. The Polyanthus is a garden race, said to be a hybrid be- 
tween the last-named species and P. vulgaris. The different varieties 
are useful for rock work and for borders. A good selection of forms may 
be had from seed sown in Spring; but the plants will not bloom until 
the second year. Some of the Himalayan species do fairly well in this 
latitude if given a position shaded from sun in Winter and mulched in 
Summer. P. denticulata and its forms are among the best. P. sikki- 
mensis should be tried in damp, shady ground by the margins of lakes. 
P. cortusoides Sieboldii produces pure white, crimson and lilac colored 
flowers; very useful for cutting. The plants have creeping root stocks, 
and thrive best when protected by a frame in Winter. In the Fall those 
plants which are to remain in the open during Winter should be gone 
over, and those which have their crowns above the surface of the soil 
lifted and replanted, so that the roots may be protected. 

RUDBECKIA (Coneflower)— Nearly all of the species are worthy of a 
place in the herbaceous border. A few of them are valuable for supply- 
ing cut flowers. R. speciosa(R. Newmanni) grows from 2 to 3 feet high; 
the color of the outer florets is orange-yellow, while those in the center 
are almost black. P. maxima is a much taller species, valuable for cut- 
ting. R. laciniata attains a height of 4 feet. The variety known as 
Golden Glow has large double yellow flowers; the best of all for cutting. 
R. purpurea (Echinacea purpurea) has purple florets. Some of the spe- 
cies are easily raised from seeds, but most of them may be divided freely 
if the work is done before they make much growth in Spring. 

SALVIA PRATENSIS — This species has very long spikes of flowers in 
bright blue, rose, and white. They flower in May, and are exceedingly 
attractive. They all seed freely, and if sown early in the Fall, will 
bloom the following Spring. S. azurea and S. a. grandiflora are tall- 
growing species, with blue flowers. They are easily increased from cut- 
tings in the Fall months. 

SANGUINARIA CANADENSIS (Blood Root)— A dwarf-growing native 
plant that, in sunny positions, is one of the earliest to open its flowers, 
which are pure white, about 2 inches across. It is increased from seeds 
and by division. 



142 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

SANTOLINA INCANA (Cotton Lavender) is a dwarf, shrubby plant 
with silvery-white fragrant foliage. It will thrive in almost any posi- 
tion with very little attention. Cuttings should be put in during the 
first half of October; they will root in a cold frame. 

SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS (Bouncing Bet. )— Naturalized over a wide 
area in the United States. The flowers are usually double. S. ocy- 
moides is one of the best rockwork trailers. It passes the Winter with 
a mass of short growths near the crown; these, on the approach of 
warm weather, grow very fast, subsequently forming wide-spreading 
masses of light or dark pink flowers. S. o. splendidissima has rosy- 
crimson flowers. The plants are in full bloom during the latter part of 
May, with scattering flowers for a long time after. Seeds should be 
sown in September, and the plants wintered in a frame. Early planting 
is necessary. 

SARRACENIA (Pitcher Plant)— In the District of Columbia the only 
species which does not stand the Winter out-of-doors is S. Drummondii. 
S. purpurea is the hardiest of the number when plants are obtained from 
Northern sources. They should be planted in a mixture of peat, sand 
and moss, and the surface given a coating of moss, which must be kept 
damp, especially during the growing season. Pockets of suitable soil 
should be made for them at the margins of artificial lakes and ponds. 

SAXIFRAQA (Saxifrage)— The extremes of temperature in Summer 
and Winter work havoc with the great majority of the species, especially 
those of the mossy and encrusted sections. S. peltata, a Californian 
species, does grandly where it enjoys moist soil. The leaves are from 1 
to 2 feet in length. The plant blooms during the latter part of April. 
S. sarmentosa (Aaron's Beard), a Japanese species, has withstood the 
Winters here for a long number of years. The foliage is handsome, even 
in midwinter. There is a form with the leaves beautifully marked with 
creamy-white and red. The section to which S. ligulata belongs has 
some exceedingly handsome species, among which are S. purpurascens, 
flowering in May. S. cordifolia, with bright pink flowers, is frequently 
seen here peeping through the snow. S. crassifolia is another early 
bloomer. All of them are easy to increase by division. 

SCUTELLAR.IA (Skull=Cap)— A rather large genus, embracing stove, 
greenhouse and hardy species. S. macrantha is one of the best for out- 
door use. The stems are at first procumbent, the flower spikes ascend- 
ing. Our hot, dry Summers suit this plant well. It blooms during 
July and August. The flowers are purplish-blue, and are produced in 
great abundance. It grows about a foot high. Increased from seed. S. 
japonica does equally as well as S. macrantha; the flowers are much 
smaller. In S. orientalis the flowers are yellow; the plant grows from 
9 inches to 1 foot high. 

SEDUM (Stonecrop)— Many of the species differ from each other in 
habit; some of them are herbaceous plants. S. spectabile grows 2 feet 
high, forming large and neat clumps; flowers pink. S. Maximowiczii is 
an erect growing species, about 1 foot in height, with yellow flowers. 
S. maximum, a very variable species, sometimes attains a height of 2y 2 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 143 

feet. S. Sieboldii is quite hardy in this locality; it makes a fine plant 
for pots or baskets, but it does not associate well with other plants in 
the same receptacle. S. acre, S. a. aureum and S.sexangulare form dense 
growths from 2 to 3 inches in height. The yellow flowers are produced 
in great abundance about the beginning of June ; their mossy-like growths 
are attractive all the year round. S. spurium (S. stoloniferum ) has very 
handsome pink flowers, produced sparingly from midsummer till late in 
Fall. All of the species named are increased by division. 

SEMPERVIVUM (Houseleek)— Dwarf succulent plants, well suited for 
dry, exposed positions in the rockery. The hardy species are easily in- 
creased by division. S. tectorum is the species commonly grown. S. 
arachnoideum has small rosettes of leaves connected at the tips by a 
cobweb-like formation. Other well known species are S. californicum, 
S. Funckii, S. hirtum and S. soboliferum. They will thrive in almost 
any kind of soil. 

SILENE (Catchfly)— Among this very large genus there are three per- 
ennial species, each one growing only a few inches tall, which are among 
our finest rockwork plants. S. Schafta has bright purple flowers; it is 
a very deep rooting species, and stands dry weather well, keeping in 
bloom for several months. It can be raised from seed; or old plants 
divide well in October. Dig up the plant carefully, saving all of the 
roots, and in dividing give each piece as much root as possible; put in 
pots and keep-in a cold frame for the Winter. S. alpestris is a neat 
growing little plant with white flowers; easily raised from seeds. S. 
maritima forms a dense carpet of growth, the branches from a single 
plant covering a large surface. The flowers are white and are rather 
showy; they last only a short time, however. The foliage is handsome 
for the greater part of the year, being very neat and of a whitish cast. 
Seeds ripen in abundance; they should be sown early in September. 

SPIR/EA (meadow Sweet, Goat's Beard)— There are several very 
handsome herbaceous plants in this genus; all of them are of easy culti- 
vation. They are best increased by division either in Fall or early in 
Spring. S. aruncus is a variable species; the plant found in the Eastern 
States seems much more dwarf than the one commonly cultivated in 
European gardens. To grow this plant to best advantage it should be 
given an isolated position. It usually attains a height of from 3 to 6 
feet, according to variety. S. astilboides is dwarfer than the above 
named; flowers white, borne in dense panicles. S. filipendula is a valu- 
able rockwork plant, the finely cut leaves remaining green all the year 
round. The flowers, especially those of the double variety, are showy. 
S. palmata is without question one of the handsomest flowered herba- 
ceous plants in cultivation, but unfortunately other worthless kinds are 
often sold for it. The flowers are bright crimson, in large panicles; the 
leaves are palmately five to seven-lobed. S. ulmaria (Queen of the 
Meadow) has creamy white, very fragrant flowers. The plant grows 
from 2 to 4 feet high, and, like all of the others, it delights in damp soil, 
with partial shade during midday. They are all best increased by 
division. 



144 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

I 
STACHYS LANATA (Hedge Nettle)— This plant is a valuable one for 
hot, dry situations and for planting under trees. The flowers may be cut 
off as they make their appearance, as it is the foliage which is the most 
ornamental. The leaves are covered with a wood-like substance, im- 
parting a whitish appearance to the plant. Increased by division at 
almost any time in Spring. 

STATICE (Sea Lavender)— Several species do well here as border 
plants. They need sandy soil with a little peat or leaf soil added. S. 
elata, S. eximia, S. tatarica augustifolia and S. latifolia are all good 
kinds. They are raised from seeds. 

TANACETUM VULGARE (Tansy)— There is little in this subject to 
recommend it, beyond its habit of keeping green and fresh-looking during 
the Summer. It is a favorite cottage garden plant. The flowers and 
foliage are very fragrant. The variety with curled leaves is rather orna- 
mental. Increased by division. 

THYMUS (Thyme)— T. Chamaedrys lanuginosus and T. serpyllum are 
well suited for growing in dry and exposed parts of the rockery. They 
are low-growing and wide-spreading plants, with small leaves and 
flowers. T. s. vulgaris is the Lemon Thyme, a highly fragrant and 
ornamental plant, growing from 8 inches to 1 foot high. Well colored 
pieces of this should be rooted in Autumn; the other kinds are raised 
from seed. 

TIARELLA CORDIFOLIA (False nitrewort)— A native species, well 
suited for shady spots in the front part of the herbaceous border, or on 
the rockery. It blooms early, and throws out numerous runners after 
flowering, providing a ready means of propagation. 

TRICYRTIS HIRTA (Japanese Toad=LiIy)— This curious but beautiful 
plant is the latest of the hardy herbaceous plants to come in flower with 
us. It usually blooms in October and November. During Summer the 
foliage is quite ornamental. The individual flowers, of which there are 
many on a stalk, are shaped like those of a lily, only much smaller. The 
divisions of the flower are pinkish-white spotted with purple. This sub- 
ject should be planted in moist soil, or where a mulch can be given, in 
order to preserve the foliage till the blooming period. The plant divides 
easily, or cuttings may be made from the flowering stems and put in a 
cold frame late in the season. 

VALL0RAD1A (Plumbago) PLUriBAGINOIDES— A hardy species, with 
deep blue flowers, growing to a height of one foot. It blooms from July 
till freezing weather. Propagation is effected by division. The plants 
should be lifted during the first half of September, the shoots shortened 
back, and several pieces put together in 4-inch pots, saving as many of 
the creeping underground stems as possible. Keep plunged in a cold 
frame for the Winter. If a large number of plants is wanted those in 
pots may be divided again during the end of April, and each piece put 
into a 3-inch pot. They will flower at the proper season if planted out 
by the end of May. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 145 

VERBASCUM (Mullein) — V. olympicum is one of the handsomest of a 
large number of species. It grows from 4 to 6 feet high. Although a 
perennial, it is best treated as a biennial. The seeds should be sown in 
August or September. It is a good plant for the back part of a sunny 
border. 

VERONICA (Speedwell)— A large genus, including a number of shrubby 
species, principally from New Zealand. There are only a few herbaceous 
species which are worthy of a place in the garden, as the majority are 
of a weedy appearance and last only a very short time in bloom. V. 
gentianoides attains a height of 12 inches when in bloom. There is a 
handsome variegated form, the flowers of which should be removed, as 
this tends to induce growth at the base. V. incana has whitish foliage 
and deep blue flowers; it is best raised from seeds. V. amethystina is 
one of the best of the tall herbaceous kinds, growing about 18 inches 
high. V. taurica, V. Teucrium, V. prostrata and V. satureioides are first- 
class rockery plants, which should be increased by division early in the 
season. 

VINCA (Periwinkle)— V. herbacea loses its foliage in the Fall. In April 
it makes short flowering growths, followed later by long vine-like 
shoots, which take root at the extremities and form new plants. It 
thrives well in full sun. V. minor, the commonest kind, has blue flowers, 
also double blue, double purple, single white and variegated leaved 
forms. It is much used in planting among shrubbery and for covering 
shady spots under trees. It will thrive in almost any position, and 
takes possession of the ground to the exclusion of most other herbaceous 
perennials. 

VIOLA (Violet)— V. odorata is the parent of the numerous single and 
double forms which are grown for their flowers in Winter and Spring. 
Propagation is effected by cuttings and division of the old plants. 
From the nature of the species the method of building up a plant from 
the cutting, or runner, is the surest way of obtaining free growing, 
healthy specimens. The plants send out runners, and those intended for 
propagation should be allowed to develop to a certain extent. In the 
latter half of February, and during March, they are taken off and either 
inserted in the sand bed of a cool house or dibbled in boxes of sand and 
kept under conditions favorable to rooting. When rooted they are put 
in 2-inch pots. After the roots show on the outside of the ball they are 
given a shift into 3-inch pots and placed in cold frames, affording abundant 
ventilation and shaded either with naphtha and white lead, or with 
lath slats. In this section the plants are given their Winter quarters in 
June. They are largely grown in frames from which frost is excluded 
by banking the outside with stable litter level with the sash, and run- 
ning at least one 1^-inch heating pipe in the front or back part of the 
frame. But even under those conditions the flower crop is not continu- 
ous during very severe weather. In planting in benches, or beds, the 
operation is usually completed by June 15. Benches are used with 
about 5 inches of soil. Narrow and low-roofed, equal-span houses, run- 
ning east and west, with the benches as near the glass as possible, pro- 
duce satisfactory results. Houses of the same order running north and 



!46 HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS. 






south do not produce as many nor as good blooms during midwinter. 
The temperature is safe for the plants as long as frost is excluded, but 
10 degrees above the freezing point should be the minimum for continu- 
ous flowering. In Winter the temperature may rise to from 55 to 60 
degrees. Airing must be carefully attended to so as to maintain a cool, 
dry atmosphere. A hot, moist, stagnant atmosphere supplies perfect 
conditions for weak, sickly growth, and is certain to encourage the 
development of fungoid diseases. The soil should be loamy, mixed with 
at least a sixth of rotted cow manure and a very small quantity of pure 
bone meal. After planting the glass is shaded with turpentine or naph- 
tha and white lead, allowing full ventilation. Water only when moder- 
ately dry. In August, or beginning of September, the plants should 
get a shallow mulch of leaf soil mixed with dried horse manure. All 
leaves which show the least signs of decay should be removed and 
burned. During Summer, syringing should be attended to frequently, for 
the purpose of ridding tbe plants of red spider, their greatest enemy. For 
this purpose the water must be applied with considerable force to the 
lower surfaces of the leaves. The plants can, however, be kept tolerably 
free of this pest if proper growing conditions are supplied, as red spider 
is only found on plants which are enfeebled through some cause. When 
syringing is to be done it should be attended to in the early part of the 
day, and in bright weather, so that ventilation may be relied upon to 
dry the foliage before night— a most essential item. For ridding the 
plants of aphides, the use of hydrocyanic acid gas is much preferable to 
tobacco in any of its forms, as it leaves no objectionable odor. 

Leaf Spot— When this, the most dreaded of the fungoid diseases, 
appears, the leaves should immediately be picked off and burned, for by 
being allowed to continue on the plant the fungus will ripen its spores 
and spread to other leaves. It is present more or less in all houses, and 
is only kept under control by supplying favorable conditions for the 
growth of the plants. When grown outdoors or in frames without pro- 
tection the leaves are apt to suffer from too much moisture in the shape 
of dew. This condition is very favorable for the increase of spot. There 
are several other more or less hurtful fungoid diseases which can only be 
guarded against by giving the plants proper treatment, and their rav- 
ages curtailed by picking off and burning the infected parts. Very weak 
liquid cow manure may be afforded occasionally if the plants are in need 
of a stimulant. 

Hardy Violas — Among the hardy Violas V. cucculata is the species 
most frequently grown in gardens. It often becomes a troublesome 
weed, and keeps on producing apetalous flowers long after the long- 
stemmed showy blooms are gone, and from the short-stalked apetalous 
flowers large capsules of seed follow in almost every instance. V.pedata, 
and its forms, are among the earliest of our native species to bloom. V. 
blanda has pure white flowers, growing in dense tufts; this species 
delights in sandy soil. 



147 



Hardy Shrubs* 



ABELIA RUPESTRIS (Rock Abelia).— This is one of the most pleasing 
and satisfactory of all flowering shrubs. It is not reliably hardy north 
of Washington, but for the Southern States it is equally as desirable as 
the Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia). In Washington, during the very 
severe Winter of 1898 and 1899, the Abelia escaped with only the ends 
of the branches killed. It blooms from midsummer till frost. The 
flowers are usually to be seen on the plants up to the end of November. 
It propagates freely from cuttings put in during October and November. 
Select them from the tips of the shoots; make them about 4 inches in 
length, put them close together in boxes of sand; place in the coolest 
house and shade from bright sunshine. By the beginning of January 
the batch should be gone over, as by that time many of the cuttings will 
have rooted. Those which have a sufficient number of roots may be put 
In thumb pots in the usual way, but in cases where only one or two 
roots appear the plants are best placed in the sides of the pots, as in that 
position they make roots more freely than when in the center. In a 
short time they will have made growth enough to be shifted into 3- 
inch pots, and before the time comes when the houses are crowded with 
Spring stock they may be transferred to the cold frame. This shrub, it 
may be added, is one of the very best for planting in cemeteries. Where 
the weather is not too severe it is evergreen; grows only to a moderate 
height and bears white flowers in great abundance. 

ACER PALMATUM and A. JAPONICUM (Japanese Maples). —Most of 
the Japanese Maples have very handsomely cut leaves, and especially 
during Spring and early Summer they are very highly colored. The 
specimens usually seen are from 3 to 8 feet high. The species from 
which the varieties have sprung attain a height of 20 feet. All of them 
are very hardy, and should be planted in sunny positions so that they 
have freedom to develop into symmetrical specimens. They should not 
be planted in shade, or even partial shade, on account of losing their 
color early in the season. Some of the varieties known as A. palmatum 
atropurpureum, A. p. dissectum and A. p. sanguineum set seeds freely 
and produce plants like the parents; these seedlings are much more vig- 
orous than grafted plants. From old plants of A. palmatum seedlings 
are raised on which the finer varieties are grafted. Veneer grafting is 
the system most commonly employed. 

AMORPHA FRUTICOSA (Bastard Indigo).— A pretty and interesting 
shrub. The leaves are pinnate and at a distance have a feathery ap- 
pearance. The flowers, arranged in spikes, are very dark purple. It is 
propagated by seeds, also by green or hard wood cuttings. 

ARALIA JAPONICA (Angelica Tree).— This with A. Mandshurica and 
A. spinosa, have very large bipinnate leaves and stout prickly stems. 
They are useful for permanent positions where a sub-tropical effect is 
desired. They are propagated by taking roots and cutting them into 



148 HARDY SHRUBS. 

pieces about 3 inches in length, starting them during Spring, in sand or 
moss. A. pentaphylla is a dwarf shrub, with small palmate leaves; 
does well in shade. It may be increased like the above, or from seeds. 

AUCUBA JAPONICA.— A dwarf evergreen shrub belonging to the Dog- 
wood family. It is one of the most desirable evergreens for the warmer 
parts of the country. While frequently hurt by late frosts in this 
locality, it is only the imperfectly ripened ends of the previous season's 
shoots which suffer. In the Fall those shoots which are likely to get 
hurt make good material for cuttings. They may be made quite large; 
pieces 8 or 10 inches long will root easily in the cold ^propagating house. 
The roots emitted from the cuttings are thick and easily broken, and if 
left lor any length of time in the sand bed, or boxes, after the roots are 
about 2 inches long, they are difficult to handle successfully. Some of 
the varieties of this plant are almost as handsome as the Crotons for 
decorative work, and as a berry-bearing plant it has not had the atten- 
tion it deserves. The sexes are on separate plants. They flower early 
in Spring. A branch of the staminate plant, when the pollen is in suita- 
ble condition, if carefully shaken over the pistillate flowers on a calm, 
sunny day, will almost certainly insure a crop of the large, bright red 
berries. In favorable situations the berries last in good condition 
through the following Winter. Some of the better known kinds are A. j. 
aurea, A. j. albo-variegata, A. j. bicolor, A. j. latimaculata, A. j. macro- 
phylla, A. j. ovata, A. j. longifolia, A. j. limbata and A. j. pygmaea 
sulphurea. 

AZALEA.— The deciduous species and varieties, including the Chinese 
species (A. mollis), and the Ghent Azaleas, which are hybrids between A. 
pontica, the American species, and A. mollis, are well-known flowering 
shrubs. The species are raised from seeds, and the seedlings are used as 
stocks on which to graft the finer varieties. It does not pay to raise 
these plants in small quantities as they are supplied by dealers at low 
prices. The evergreen species include the well-known A. indica, several 
of the varietias of which are successfully grown out of doors from New 
York southward. In Washington some large plants have stood out un- 
harmed for over 20 years. A. amoena, an allied species, is probably the 
hardiest of this section. The color of the flowers is a rich rosy-crimson. 
For pot culture it does not approach in beauty the forms of the Indian 
Azalea, but for outdoor planting in the colder sections it is more to be 
depended on. The cuttings should be taken about the beginning of No- 
vember; at that time numerous strong shoots with small rosettes of 
leaves on the ends will be found above the main body of the bush. These 
make the best cuttings; lengths of about 4 inches will suffice. They 
should be inserted close together in the sand bed of a cool house. The 
roots which they emit are exceedingly fine. Previous to potting, if 
watered well before lifting, a small quantity of sand will adhere to the 
roots. The plants should be potted in the smallest-sized pots, using 
finely sifted sandy soil, with at least half of its bulk leaf mould or peat. 
Owing to the low price of imported plants of Indian Azaleas, it is gen- 
erally conceded that it is cheaper to buy than to raise plants. This is 
no doubt true of the finer and slow growing kinds, which are propagated 



HARDY SHRUBS. 149 

by grafting on the strong growing varieties, and also on some species 
of Rhododendron. This iff. done in Winter and also when the growth is 
ripe later in the year. Some of the strong growing forms, especially 
those having single white and red flowers, are, however, hardy, and 
for planting out they may be propagated by cuttings. Plants raised in 
this way have a more natural appearance than when grown as stand- 
ards, in which shape they are usually imported. The cuttings should be 
put in the sand of a cool propagating house by the middle of August; 
the roots being small will need fine soil of a peaty nature for the first 
potting. In this operation use clean thumb pots; put the pots in 
water before using so as to absorb as much as possible. Instead of 
placing the rooted cutting in the middle of the pot put it at the side; 
this will facilitate rooting. At the next potting it is an easy matter to 
have the plant in the center of the pot. In planting out-of-doors it must 
be remembered that they will not stand drought, so they must not be 
left to take care of themselves. The soil should be prepared to a depth 
of at least 18 inches. It may consist of loam, leaf mould and sand, in 
about equal parts. The plants should be planted moderately close 
together so that the foliage will keep the sun from the soil; but to 
insure moisture they should always be mulched during Spring and Sum- 
mer, and frequently watered during dry spells. Digging, or deep hoeing, 
should never be practiced, as the roots are almost certain to be injured 
thereby. 

BERBERIS THUNBERGI (Barberry).— A Japanese species growing 
from 3 to 6 feet high; by far the most ornamental of the deciduous 
kinds. It is very symmetrical, seldom needing the aid of the knife to 
keep it in shape. It loses its foliage in the late Fall, but during the 
Winter and up till the time when the new leaves expand, the bushes 
usually present a very pretty appearance from the small but very 
numerous fruits. The readiest method of increase is from seeds, which 
should be collected when the leaves fall, gently rubbed between the 
hands to bruise the covering, and sown in sandy loam, in shallow boxes, 
making the soil firm. If placed in the cool greenhouse they will germi- 
nate uniformly, and by the end of the first year they should be over a foot 
high. This is a species well adapted for ornamental hedge work. 

B. vulgaris is the common Barberry. It has rather ornamental yel. 
low flowers, in May or June, followed by bright red fruits, which 
remain on the bush during Winter. There are numerous varieties; one 
named B. v. atropurpurea has purple-colored leaves. B. amurensis var. 
japonica and B. sinensis are also good deciduous kinds. Among the 
evergreen species B. Fremontii, while tender further North, thrives well 
here. It has small glaucous leaves. Increased by Fall cuttings in a cold 
frame. B. stenophylla has small, simple leaves. B. (Mahonia) pinnata 
thrives here only in sheltered positions. B. (m.) japonica, B. (m.) nepa- 
lensis, and B. (m.) aquifolium are all well-known evergreen shrubs, 
thriving in this section even in the most exposed positions. The flowers 
are produced early in the season, followed by handsome clusters of fruits 
which ripen during the latter part of May and June. The plants are 
easily raised from seeds. 



150 HARDY SHRUBS. 






CALLICARPA.— The species of this genus are grown solely on account 
of their beautiful fruits, which are quite small, but produced in abun- 
dance. The color of the fruit is bright violet. In northern latitudes the 
branches are apt to get Winter-killed, but new growths are produced, 
and these flower and fruit the same season. C. purpurea and C. japonica 
are the two species most worthy of cultivation. C. japonica is the 
hardiest of all the species. Propagation is easiest accomplished by 
taking cuttings of the half-ripe wood and rooting them indoors. 

CALYCANTHUS (Sweet Scented Shrub).— Of this genus there are four 
well-known species— C. occidentalis, C. hevigatus, C. glaucus and C. 
floridus. The last named is the most common in gardens, and has 
several varieties. They vary in height from 3 to 12 feet; C. occidentalis 
being the tallest and also the most tender, sometimes suffers severely 
in this locality. All of the species are prized by some on account of the 
vinous fragrance of the flowers, which are dark claret in color. C. occi- 
dentalis and C. floridus bear seeds freely, which take only a short time in 
germinating after being sown. The seeds may be kept m their capsules 
during Winter and sown in a frame during the first half of April. The 
seed leaves are very large, disturbing the surface soil a good deal in 
unfolding, therefore the seed should be sown thinly. The seedlings may 
be allowed to remain a year in their germinating quarters before being 
transplanted. Plants are also secured by layering the branches. 

CARYOPTERIS MASTACANTHUS is unmistakably one of the finest 
shrubs introduced in recent years. It was, and is, sometimes called the 
Blue Spiraea, but it has no relation to that genus, as it is a near relative 
of the chaste tree (Vitex) which is among those plants comprising the 
Verbena family. The Caryopteris has been tried for several years, and 
in Northern sections, owing to its being killed to the ground in 
Winter, should there be treated more as an herbaceous plant than as a 
shrub. In the latitude of Philadelphia and favorable positions farther 
North it has come out all right through recent Winters. In Washington 
bushes of it are now 6 feet high. It is one of the last shrubs to come 
into flower, opening out about the first half of September and lasting 
several weeks. The flowers are produced in fair-sized heads in the axils 
of the leaves on the shoots made during Summer; the color is bluish- 
purple or white. Propagation can be carried on at any time during the 
Summer or Fall, preferably during the latter season, for which prepara- 
tions should be made some time in advance by cutting back some of the 
stronger shoots to induce them to send out side shoots. The blind wood 
can be used during the flowering period. As soon as the cuttings are 
ready for removal from the sand they can either be potted or boxed and 
stored in frames for the Winter. 

CERASUS LAUROCERASUS.— The Cherry Laurel can be depended upon 
as a hardy shrub in ordinarily well-sheltered situations south of Mason 
and Dixon's line. In the grounds of the Department of Agriculture and 
in Capitol Park many old plants have stood almost unharmed in ex- 
posed places for years. The late John Saul, of Washington, D. C, gave 
this plant a good deal of attention; during a long number of years he 
made a collection of all the varieties to test their hardiness. While some 



HARDY SHRUBS. 151 

varieties suffered with the thermometer standing at 10 degrees F. three 
or four were left untouched. C. latifolia. C. angustfolia and C. caucasica 
are the hardiest. In situations which induce growth late in Summer, or 
late enough not to ripen thoroughly, the growths are almost certain to 
get nipped by frost. This species is called' the English Laurel; it is not 
native of England, but of the Levant. Propagation is effected by layers 
or cuttings, preferably the latter, as they will root in pretty large pieces 
—over a foot in length. The rarer varieties should be grafted on stocks 
of the common one. Cuttings will succeed any time after the wood is 
ripe; a piece of the wood of the preceding year attached will give all the 
better results. 

CERCIS JAPONICA (Red Bud, Judas Tree).— This species has lighter 
colored and larger flowers than either the American or European spe- 
cies, C. canadensis and C. siliquastrum. Some of the original plants 
brought to this country from Japan are in the parks at Washington, 
and seldom does a season pass in which the branches are not completely 
hidden*by the flowers. I have never seen it ripen seeds, however, and 
do not know if it does so in other localities. It takes kindly to layer- 
ing. The other species seed very abundantly. C. japonica in this locality 
does not grow over 8 feet in height. 

CHIMONANTHUS FRAGRANS (Calycanthus praecox).— The flowers of 
this shrub are produced on the wood of the previous year's growth long 
before the leaves are developed. In this locality it often blooms during 
the end of January. It is not reliably hardy north of Washington, as 
all of our plants were killed to the snow line during the Winter of 1898 
and 1899. Previous to that time it had remained unhurt for a long 
number of years. It is a trifle slow to increase from cuttings of the 
ripened wood, doing better from the half-ripe wood, with the foliage 
attached. Large plants are secured in a short period by layering in 
midsummer. The species and its variety C. f. grandiflora are grown 
solely on account of the wonderful perfume emitted by the rather incon- 
spicuous flowers. Cut in the bud state they open out well if kept 
indoors with the stems in water. 

CHIONANTHUS VIRGINICA (Fringe Tree).— A native shrub sometimes 
growing to a height of 30 feet; but specimens will give an abundance 
of bloom when only a few feet high. The flowers are disposed in droop- 
ing panicles, are pure white in color and very graceful. It is raised from 
seed and by budding on stocks of Fraxinus ornus. 

CISTUS VILLOSUS.— Plants of this species have survived the past two 
Winters in Washington, during which we frequently had zero weather. 
For the Southern States, this and other species should be given a trial, 
as they are very handsome shrubs, with large white or purple flowers, 
somewhat resembling a single rose. Cuttings root freely, under cool 
treatment, late in Summer. 

CITRUS TRIFOLIATA.— As a dwarfing stock this is used extensively 
for budding and grafting the different varieties of oranges, and for a 
hedge plant, one that will make an almost impenetrable barrier, scarcely 
any other subject will answer so well. But its usefulness is yet by no 



15 2 HARDY SHRUBS. 

means exhausted. As an ornamental shrub it makes quite an effective 
appearance early in the season, before the leaves appear, when covered 
with its pure white flowers, two inches in diameter. In late Summer 
and Fall the branches are loaded down with its golden fruit. In the 
grounds of the United States Department of Agriculture several old 
Plants in the fruiting stage attract great attention from Northern 
visitors. Its propagation is effected by seeds, of which there is a plentiful 
supply; sown in the Fall out-of-doors, every seed will germinate after 
good weater sets in. During some seasons this species bears two crops 
of flowers— the first in Spring, the second along about the month of 
August. The second crop of fruit fails to ripen before cool weather. 

CLERODENDRON TRICHOTOMUM.— A very handsome, free-flower- 
ing Japanese species, thoroughly hardy in the Middle Atlantic States; 
further North, although annually killed to the ground, it makes strong 
growths, and on these it blooms freely. The flowers are white with a 
dark red calyx. Propagation is accomplished by cutting up and 
sprouting the roots. The plant seems to delight in rather dry soil. In 
dry weather, when other shrubs suffer for L want of water, this one is 
always fresh and green; but probably this is caused by the roots going 
deep into the soil. C. fcetidum is not so hardy as the above, but where 
the crowns can be saved it will flower splendidly from herbaceous 
stems. It is one of the best shrubs for the Southern States. It sends 
up many shoots from underground stems. To increase it in quantity 
the roots and underground stems should be dug up, cut in small pieces, 
and started indoors early in Spring. 

CORNUS FLORIDA (Flowering Dogwood).— In the Southern States this 
Dogwood grows sometimes 30 to 40 feet high; farther North it is a 
shrub 10 to 15 feet high. The flowers are small, greenish-yellow; the 
bracts are very large and pure white. It blooms in early Spring before 
the leaves are developed. In Autumn a well-fruited bush, with its red 
foliage, is a most beautiful object. C. f. rubra is a rosy-pink flowered 
variety of recent introduction, well worthy of cultivation; both it and 
the type should be planted in well-drained situations. They are increased 
by budding and grafting on seedlings. C. sanguinea has dark red 
branches— a very effective plant among other shrubs. C. candidissima 
and C. mas are commonly grown, the former for its flowers, the latter 
principally for its fruits. 

COTONEASTER MICROPHYLLA is a dense, low-growing, evergreen 
shrub, with small leaves and bright red fruits that remain on the plants 
the best part of Winter. It is propagated best by taking cuttings, 
about 6 inches long, and rooting them indoors in August or September. 
C. Simonsii is almost evergreen and perfectly hardy south of New York; 
its bright red fruits is the main feature of the plant. 

CRATAEGUS (Hawthorn).— There are numerous American species cul- 
tivated as shrubs, or dwarf trees, the best of which are C. coccinea, the 
scarlet-fruited Thorn, and C. crus-galli, the Cockspur Thorn. Owing to 
their bright red fruits, often remaining a long time after the leaves fall, 
they are valuable decorative subjects. C. oxyacantha is the English 
Hawthorn; the many kinds grown, and which are known as varieties of 



HARDY SHRUBS. 153 

this species, make very symmetrical specimens. They are more florifer- 
ous than the American kinds. Some of the best are C. o. alba-plena, 
double white; C o. punicea-plena, double scarlet; C. o. bicolor, pink 
edged with white; C. o. rosea, pink with white claw. They are increased 
by budding or grafting upon seedlings of the type. The seeds do not 
germinate until the second year from sowing, consequently they should 
be mulched in Summer to prevent drying out. 

C. pyracantha is the evergreen Thorn. The fruits are the principal 
decorative feature of this shrub ; they are of a beautiful scarlet color, 
remaining on the branches during Winter. C. p. Lelandi has bright 
orange-scarlet fruit — a very ornamental and quick-growing variety. 

CRYPTOMERIA JAPONICA (Japan Cedar).— With us this is one of the 
most satisfactory of the evergreen coniferse. It looks well in a 5-inch pot, 
and from that to a specimen 30 feet high. It varies very much, there 
being nearly a dozen well-defined varieties. In the New England States it 
is not thoroughly at home as a tree, and this condition is not to be met 
with until we get as far South as Maryland. As a pot-grown plant it 
is very little inferior to the costly Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria ex- 
celsa,) and it can be gotten up in quantity at less than one-tenth the 
cost of the latter. Cuttings root well if put in by the end of October, in 
a cool sand bed. They can be inserted large enough so that by the 
middle of May following they will be ready to be shifted into 5-inch 
pots. Although plants raised from cuttings make the best furnished 
plants for using in pots, seedlings, if grown on without a'check, furnish 
plants within a year from sowing, which will not look too small in 5- 
inch pots. The seed should be gathered as soon as ripe, which it usually is 
about October 15, else there is danger of it being lost through the cones 
bursting open, the seed falling out through a little disturbance of the 
branches. For sowing, prepare shallow boxes of firmly pressed soil — 
loam, leaf mould and sand in equal proportions will suit. Sow the seed, 
not too thickly, and cover with half an inch of screened leaf soil and 
sand; put near the glass in a temperate house. They will germinate 
the first half of January, and can remain in the boxes, if not sown too 
thickly, until the end of May. Pot off singly or three in a 3-inch pot at 
first, using sandy soil. Keep in a growing temperature until they are 
too large for small pots. The plants will stand in cold frames during 
the Winter in most places without hurt, other than a slightly yellowish 
tinge to the leaves, but where they are wanted to make marketable 
plants in as short a time as possible from the seedling stage, they should 
be kept in a cool house where, if suitable rooting conditions are provided, 
they will make rapid progress during the Winter months. 

CYDONIA JAPONICA (Japanese Quince).— The common form will give 
good flowering specimens from seed. The finer varieties may be grafted 
on seedlings of the type. Cuttings of the ripe wood taken in the Fall and 
stored till Spring are rooted successfully. It is also raised from cuttings 
of the roots, from suckers and by layering. There is a form with varie- 
gated leaves and pale flowers, also a pure white and double red. They 
are among our most desirable hardy shrubs, coming into bloom along 
with the Forsythias and Jasminum nudiflorum. 



154 HARDY SHRUBS. 

C. Maulei is a much dwarfer species, with reddish flowers produced 
in great abundance. C. M. superba has the flowers of a deeper shade of 
red. C. M. tricolor has the leaves variegated with pink and white. 

PAPHNE CNEORUM.— A hardy dwarf evergreen trailing shrub growing 
not more than a foot high. It flowers in April and May; the color is 
dull pink. It makes a neat symmetrical plant, with very sweet-scented 
flowers. It is rather slow to increase from cuttings. The best method 
of propagation is to layer the trailing branches in Spring, making an in- 
cision, or tongue, in the under part of the stem. Have the cut part at 
least 2 inches under the soil; secure with wooden pegs; press the soil 
firmly over it, and cover with sphagnum to insure moisture. Leave 
until the following Spring before separating from the parent plant. D. 
Blagayana is also a desirable hardy trailing species, not so well known 
as the above. D. Mezereum, a hardy deciduous species, is sometimes 
used for forcing, more on account of the fragrant flowers than for their 
appearance. It is raised from seed, and its forms grafted on seedlings of 
the type. D. odora, D. o. marginata and D. o. alba make very satisfac- 
tory growth in sheltered positions out-of-doors here, but it may be 
stated that the plants were imported direct from Japan. I have tried 
greenhouse-grown plants in similar situations with unfavorable results. 
D. pontica and D. laureola are perfectly hardy here, but they do best with 
partial shade in Summer. The last named is scentless. 

DEUTZIA SCABRA.— A very free growing and handsome flowered 
shrub from China and Japan. It blooms according to locality in May 
and June. In Washington it reaches a height of 8 feet. It blooms on 
short growths made on the previous season's wood. D. s. crenata is a 
form with smoother leaves than the type. There are several other 
varieties with double flowers more or less tinged with rose. D. c. Pride 
of Rochester has the flowers large and double white. In the Northern 
States they should be planted in protected situations. It is among the 
easiest shrubs to propagate. The cuttings are taken after the leaves 
fall from the current year's growths; they should be tied in bunches and 
heeled in moss in a cold frame. In early Spring they are put in boxes of 
sand, with a little soil at the bottom, and kept in a greenhouse. When 
rooted they are hardened off and planted out in rows, where they will 
make fair-sized plants before the growing season is over. These plants 
make splendid growth in tubs, and are easily forced into bloom for the 
decoration of large conservatories. D. gracilis has never been known to 
suffer from cold weather in this latitude, aud it is said to stand the Win- 
ter, when in sheltered positions, in the Northern States. As it blooms 
on short growths made on the wood of the previous season, the plant 
would be of no service where its branches are apt to get winter-killed. 
It is one of the grandest of our dwarf flowering shrubs, blooming in 
Washington from the first to the middle of May, and growing from 2 to 3 
feet high. It is well suited for planting in cemeteries. For forcing into 
bloom, it is an easy subject. The plants may be lifted from the open 
ground as late as the weather will permit. They lift with a mass of fine 
fibrous roots, and should be potted before getting a chance to dry. 
Place them in a deep frame till wanted; put them in heat very gradually 



HARDY SHRUBS. 155 

else there will be a tendency to have flowers without foliage. This 
species is best propagated from green wood cuttings taken shortly after 
the plant is done blooming. Dull weather should be chosen for the 
operation, as then the cuttings stand an almost certain chance of root- 
ing. Make the pieces about 4 inches long; avoid the thick, succulent 
growths, taking only those which have most substance to them. Put 
closely together in the sand bed of a cool house, or frame, and shade to 
prevent wilting. As soon as rooted, put in boxes or small pots until 
taken a little with the soil, then plant in rows outside, where they will 
make bushy little plants before Autumn. The next year after that in 
which they are struck from cuttings will give plants large enough to go 
into 6-inch pots for forcing. D. Lemoinei, a hybrid between D. gracilis 
and D. parviflora, is also a good subject for forcing. It is quite as free 
in rooting as D. gracilis, and, along with D. parviflora, should be treated 
in the same manner in the same propagating bed. 

DIERVILLA (Weigelia).— D. rosea is the best known of the species; it 
blooms in May and June. As it is not particular as to soil or location 
the species and its varieties should be in every collection. D. r. flori- 
bunda has dark red flowers with whitish stamens-^a very prolific 
bloomer. D. r. Desboisii has deep rose-colored flowers. D. grandiflora 
is a tall growing plant with large leaves and flowers. There are several 
varieties with white, red and pink flowers ; some of these give scattering 
blooms throughout the Summer and Autumn months. D. rosea and its 
forms force very easily. In its propagation, cuttings of the dormant 
wood root quickly if put in gentle heat about the end of March, or the 
growing tips may be used in Summer when kept in a humid atmosphere 
during the rooting process. 

ERICA (Heath).— These are attractive low-growing shrubs useful f OP 
bordering those of taller growth. The cuttings taken from the tips of 
the current year's growth should be put in during late Summer. Few 
florists have just the proper facilities for rooting these and kindred 
plants. The structure, a cool frame, should face north and will be all 
the better if in the shade of a house. The idea is to have the atmosphere 
while rooting as moist and as cool as possible. Erica vagans is an 
early kind, as is also E. mediterranea; E. cinerea and E. tetralix are 
later in blooming. Calluna vulgaris (Heather), with the double and 
white flowered kinds, are all good; they need peaty soil, or loam mixed 
with an abundance of leaf mould and sand, and should not be allowed 
to get dust dry at the roots while in a young state. 

EUONYMUS (Spindle Tree).— Up till within a few years E. japonicus 
was among the finest of our evergreen shrubs in this section, but owing 
to the ravages of a small scale insect the plant is now comparatively 
seldom seen and will only thrive where severe measures are taken to 
keep it clear of the pest. Several forms have very handsome variega- 
tions; their names are E. j. latifolius-aureus, E. j. aureo-marginatus, E. 
j. albo-marginatus, and E. j. latifolius-albus. They bloom about the 
end of July and usually ripen large quantities of seeds. The variegated 
kinds are propagated by cuttings, put in about the end of October, in a 
cool house or frame. 



156 HARDY SHRUBS. 

E. radicans variegata is usually best known in its place in the shrub- 
bery, but it is extensively used for a very different purpose, and that is 
as a carpet bedder. For this work, to fill even a small space, a great 
many plants are necessary. In public parks and gardens the same 
plants may be used several seasons, or the growing points may be 
rooted afresh each Fall. The shoots are collected in bundles of 50 or 
100 together, and with a strong knife they are cut to a uniform length 
—4 or 5 inches. The lower leaves are stripped and the cuttings put very 
thickly together in boxes of sand, and placed in a cool frame, where they 
root freely. 

EXOCHORDA GRANDIFLORA (Pearl Bush).— The only fault with this 
plant is its short blooming season, which is during the month of May, 
but it is exceedingly handsome while it lasts. It is a native of China. 
Although sent out in the early seventies it is still by no means common, 
owing to its propagation by the usual methods being somewhat diffi- 
cult. In several localties it has ripened quantities of seed for several 
years, and when seed is obtainable no difficulty is experienced in raising 
plants, as the seeds germinate very evenly. Severe pruning, such as this 
plant is likely to get from cultivators, on account of the desirable sprays 
for cut flowers, evidently works against the setting of seed, for the 
specimens which have borne abundant crops of seeds in this locality are 
those which have never been touched by the knife. This plant was sent 
out under the name of Spirsea grandiflora, which c!ings to it yet in some 
places. 

FORSYTHIA.— Japanese shrubs, usually covered with bright yellow 
flowers very early in Spring. There are two well-known kinds in culti- 
vation. F. suspensa has long, drooping branches, while F. viridissima 
is more erect in growth. Nothing in the shrub line is easier to increase. 
All that is necessary is to cut the previous season's growths into lengths 
of 8 or 10 inches and heel them in deeply in a protected piece of ground, 
covering during hard weather with leaves or loose litter. November is 
the month for this operation. The cuttings will also root in a very 
short time, if put in moderate heat in March. Both kinds flower before 
the leaves make their appearance, a day or two of warm sunshine being 
sufficient to bring them out. The plants should be pruned only after 
they are done flowering, as the flowers are produced directly on the 
wood made the preceding Summer. 

GORDON I A (Loblolly Bay).— These plants thrive in this locality when 
given a deep, sandy soil and well supplied with moisture. They produce 
their large camellia-like flowers from July till frost. They are propa- 
gated by layering, allowing the layers to be well rooted before remov- 
ing. G. pubescens and G. lasiantha are the species grown. The last- 
named has pure white flowers, about 4 inches in diameter. 

HALES1A (Snowdrop Tree).— These shrubs, or small trees, are in full 
flower before the leaves are fully developed. In this section H. Meehani 
forms a very symmetrical, small-sized tree. H. diptera and H. tetrap- 
tera differ from each other in the number of wings to the fruit. All of 
the kinds are raised from seeds, which sometimes remain in the ground 



HARDY SHRUBS. 157 

over a year before germinating. Seedlings of H. tetraptera are used as 
stocks for the beautiful flowered Japanese Styrax. 

HIBISCUS SYRIACUS (Shrubby Althaea) is a deciduous shrub of easy 
cultivation, and needing very little attention after being planted beyond 
an occasionally thinning out of the branches. Most of the numerous 
varieties are very neat and compact, growing from 5 to 12 feet in height. 
They bloom late in the season, when most of the other shrubs are out 
of flower. The double-flowered varieties root easily from cuttings of the 
dormant wood, in early Spring, or from green wood in Summer. The 
cuttings from the ripened wood should be made in the Fall and heeled 
in out of the reach of frost in moderately dry sand. They may be put 
in rows in the open as soon as weather permits, or they may be rooted 
indoors early and planted out later. Several of the single varieties come 
true from seed, of which an abundant crop is usually produced. H. s. 
totus-albus is a useful single white variety and flowers when very small. 
H. s. camelliaeflora is double white, with pink throat. H. s. Boule de 
Feu, double, violet colored flowers. Other good double flowered forms 
are H. s. Leopoldii flore-pleno, H. s. rubra pleno, H. s. purpurea flore- 
pleno and H. s. Jeanne d' Arc. 

HYDRANGEA HORTENSIS is the common garden Hydrangea, of 
which there are numerous varieties, all of them being hardy in the Dis- 
trict of Columbia. Some are cut to the ground during Winter, but they 
never get injured permanently. H. h. Lindleyana and H. h. stellata 
prolifera usually survive the Winter with the stems several feet above 
ground. These plants form very large specimens, and are very 
handsome when in bloom, changing in color, as the flowers mature, 
from greenish white to a deep rose. The central flowers are fertile, the 
outer ones sterile. H. h. japonica has one or two very handsomely 
variegated forms. Cuttings of these are apt to lose their leaves in the 
sand bed, but in this condition they will root, making young growths 
simultaneously with the rooting process; and if they are carefully put in 
very small pots they will make fair-sized plants within a year. But 
they must be kept in pots during this time, as the roots are much 
weaker than those of the green-leaved plants. The variety known as 
H. h. aurea-variegata is probably the handsomest of our hardy plants. 
H. h. otaksa has large heads of rose-colored flowers. H. h. ramulus- 
coccinea has dark colored stems and pink flowers. H. h. Thomas Hogg 
has pure white flowers. Cuttings will root any time after the shoots 
are moderately firm. Where wood is scarce the large stems may be 
split down the middle with a leaf to each piece. Where pruning is neces- 
sary it should be done early in the season, to throw vigor into the 
shoots springing from the base of the plant. 

H. quercifolia, from the Southern States, opens its large pyram- 
idal heads of flowers late in the season and is valuable on that account 
alone; but the handsome foliage and its spreading, graceful habit com- 
bined make it a most desirable shrub. It will thrive either in partial 
shade or full sun. In propagating, the smallest of the ripened shoots 
should be taken with the leaves attached, placing the stems deep in 
the sand bed of the cool propagating house. If put in about the middle 



158 HARDY SHRUBS. 

of October, most of them will root by the end of February. Suckers, 
with small roots attached, may be lifted and potted in Spring. The 
most certain method is to layer the lower branches, allowing them to 
remain at least a year before removing. Seeds are not always obtaina- 
ble, but they germinate readily in sandy soil covered with finely screened 
sphagnum. 

H. paniculata grandiflora is one of the best of the late blooming 
shrubs. The flowers are creamy-white, in large pyramidal heads, ter- 
minating the current year's growths. It comes into bloom, according 
to locality, from July to September. It is grown both in bush and 
standard form. In propagating green cuttings may be taken during 
the first part of July. Select a dull day for the operation. Take those 
shoots which are net too robust and only the ends; shorten back the 
leaves one-third and put in sand„in a cool, humid atmosphere. Cuttings 
of the dormant wood may be made 8 or 10 inches long and inserted, 
either in the Fall, or kept heeled in, or buried in a cold frame during 
Winter, putting them in rows in the open as soon as weather will per- 
mit. Cover thinly with spent hops, or old manure, in either case. 

HYPERICUM (St. John's Wort)— H. kalmianum is the species most 
commonly seen in cultivation; it thrives in almost any soil and in a 
sunny position. H. patulum, a Japanese species, forms a bush from 4 
to 6 feet in height, in favorable situations. H. Moserianum is not so 
tall as H. patalum, but the flowers are larger; both of them are apt to 
be hurt in Winter in exposed situations. Cuttings root quickly at any 
time during the Summer months. H. calycinumis one of the handsomest 
and most useful of the dwarf evergreen shrubs. It forms dense clumps 
of growths, not over a foot high, with very large, bright orange-yellow 
flowers; much used for the front portions of shrubberies. Increase is by 
division. In parts of the country where the Winters are too severe it is 
easily protected by branches of evergreens, or rough stable litter. 

ILEX (Holly).— I. aquifolium,the English Holly, is, unfortunately, ten- 
der in the Northern States. Philadelphia is said to be the northern 
limit of its hardiness. Around Washington it is perfectly hardy, but it 
is much shorter lived than our native species, I. opaca. Except with 
comparatively small specimens of the English species on which the fruit 
is in larger clusters and brighter colored, the native one is to be pre- 
ferred for specimen plants. Several specimens in the parks here are 
over 40 feet high, and not much inferior as berry-bearing plants to the 
English one. I. opaca is very common in a wild state in the woods 
here; but I have never seen what could be termed a presentable plant. 
They are generally found in the shade of other trees, conditions which 
make them scraggy looking. When grown in the open, in prepared 
ground, their appearance is quite altered ; the branches grow close to- 
gether, and the outline of the tree is rather conical, not spreading as in 
I. aquifolium. Ilex cornuta, from Japan, is a very satisfactory species, 
but the berries, of which there is a plentiful supply, do not ripen until 
after the time when they would be most welcome. The English species 
takes well on stocks of I. opaca. The operation should be done indoors 
either before growth is active in Spring, or after the wood is fairly ripe 



HARDY SHRUBS. 159 

in August. I. opaca is more difficult to raise from seed than I. aquifo- 
lium. A good method is to sow in a mixture of peat and sphagnum 
moss, made quite firm, and place in a greenhouse where it will get the 
full sun, keeping the mixture moderately wet. Plants grown for their 
berries, or, in fact, for any purpose except for hedges, should never be 
selected from seedlings, as there are two kinds, one with the female 
organs, imperfectly developed, but with the stamens well formed bear- 
ing abundance of pollen ; they are the most abundant bloomers, but do 
not bear fruit. The other kind has fewer flowers, with the pistils all 
well formed and quite prominent in the center of the flower. The 
stamens on the other hand seem imperfect in most cases, but doubtless 
there is enough pollen on them to fertilize the flower, as fruiting plants 
set seed all right a long distance away from the pistillate plants. There- 
fore, cions should always be selected from berry-bearing plants. There 
is a variety of 1. aquifolium with yellow fruit which is desirable. There 
are also many kinds with curiously-formed leaves, not so popular here 
as they are in Europe. Ilex aquifolium flowers on the growths of the 
preceding Summer; I. opaca flowers later, and on the current year's 
wood. The outer covering of the seeds of Holly is quite hard, and often 
they do not germinate the same season as sown. If sown as soon as 
ripe, in very sandy soil, and care taken to keep them from drying out 
during the dry months of Summer, they will germinate the following 
Spring. Sow the seed rather deep and cover with a mulching in Win- 
ter, which covering is easily removed when freezing weather is past. I. 
cornuta, grown in company with varieties of the English species, does 
not come true from seed. 

I. cornuta. It would be an interesting experiment were some of our 
Southern woodsmen to plant the Japanese Holly (Ilex cornuta) for 
the sake of its berried branches as a Christmas Holly along with the 
English (I. aquifolia) and the native evergreen kinds, I. opaca and 
I. cassine. The last named is the prettiest of the three, but both 
berries and leaves are small; the berries shrivel up too quickly and 
sometimes fall off before they can be used. Ilex cornuta fruits more 
freely than any of the other species. In the vicinitv of Washington, by 
the middle of December, the berries are only beginning to turn red. 
Whether this fault would appear where the flowers expand earlier 
in the season I cannot say. A most noticeable feature in connection 
with the Japanese plant, the mentioning of which may be of use to 
some one some day, is that it bears a much more abundant crop of ber- 
ries when male plants of the English species are in the immediate neigh- 
borhood. The hardiness of this plant is about the same as that of the 
English kinds, probaby a little more tender. I understand it can be 
grown as far North as Philadelphia. In Washington it stands the most 
severe Winters without hurt, and grows much stronger than the English 
species. 

ITEA VIRGINICA.— The cultivated form of this is much superior to 
plants found in the wild state. It has long racemes of rather pretty 
greenish-white flowers. It may be propagated by division, or from 
seeds which ripen freely. It usually grows from 2 to 4 feet high. 



160 HARDY SHRUBS. 

JASMINUM NUDIFLORUM (Chinese naked flowered Jasmine).— This 

may be used either as a bush plant on the lawn or open border, for cov- 
ering walls or arbors, or for forming a light hedge. It is not particular 
as to soil or situation, growing almost anywhere. Its flowers are pro- 
duced during mild Winters. Beginning in December they expand as the 
weather permits till April. Propagation is effected by putting in cut- 
tings of the ripe growths out-of-doors in Autumn. Good-sized branches 
can be layered successfully. It is one of the easiest shrubs to root. J. 
revolutum, J. fruticans and J. floridum, all of them yellow-flowered spe- 
cies, usually stand the Winters here. J. revolutum is the hardiest. They 
are propagated by layering, and from cuttings of the ripe wood, kept 
in a cool house over Winter. 

JUNIPERUS (Juniper).— J. sabina var. tamariscifolia is a most useful 
dwarf, trailing evergreen, seldom growing over 18 inches high. J. pro- 
cumbens is another species of creeping habit. Cuttings may be put in 
after the first slight frost. Where only a limited number of this and 
other evergreen coniferous shrubs is required, the best method, I have 
found, is to fix up a few boxes, say about 4 inches deep, with sandy pot- 
ting soil at the bottoms and pure sand on top; make the cuttings about 
6 inches long, half of which should be in the soil. Put them in fairly 
close together, and firm well. Give one good watering. Stand the 
boxes in the coolest part of the house under the benches; keep moder- 
ately damp, and by Spring, if the conditions have not been unfavorable, 
a goodly percentage will have rooted. If not too close together they 
will take little harm from passing the Summer in the same boxes. The 
kinds available for this method of propagation are Biotas, Cupressus, 
Thuja, Retinospora, Cephalotaxus and Taxus. 

KALMIA LATIFOLIA (Calico Bush).— A native evergreen shrub grow- 
ing from Maine southwards. In the Northern States it is a bush, 4 to 8 
feet high. Further South it is frequently met with 20 feet high. It 
blooms during May and June. It is cultivated much in the same way 
as Rhododendrons; but under cultivation we seldom see the plants 
flourishing equal to those in their native habitats. It is raised from seed 
and from layers. K. glauca has lilac colored flowers, and whitish under 
the leaves; K. angnstifolia has purple flowers. All three are used for 
forcing, imported plants being employed for the purpose. K. angusti- 
folia has lateral corymbs; in K. latifolia and K. glauca they are terminal. 

KERR1A JAPONICA is a popular flowering shrub whichls not too par- 
ticular as to soil or situation. It attains a height of about 6 feet. 
There are three forms— the double flowered, single flowered and varie- 
gated leaved. They are all good. The variegated one keeps the color 
in the leaves all through the season just as showy as in Spring; it usu- 
ally bears a crop of flowers, which are bright yellow, over an inch in 
diameter, along about the first part of May. This plant is capable of 
being used as a hedge subject, as it stands clipping well. The other two 
kinds are more profuse bloomers, especially the double, which is the 
strongest growing of the three. It is seldom without flowers all during 
the Summer and Fall. The plants are best propagated from ripe 
growths during the latter part of August, indoors. 



HARDY SHRUBS. 161 

K(ELREUTERIA PANICULATA is one of the very best small sized decidu- 
ous trees in cultivation — such as florists are often called upon to suggest 
for small gardens and in places unsuitable or too small for the develop- 
ment of forest trees. The Kcelreuteria was certainly not named by any- 
one having its popularity in view, as I am inclined to think the long 
name is responsible for the plant not being more common. There isn't 
a sufficiently taking popular name under which the species is known. 
The leaves are compound ; the flowers yellow, in immense panicles, well 
above the leaves; they are produced in June and July. The seed, which 
is somewhat like that of the Canna, if sown in the Fall will germinate 
the following Spring. Stock is also got up readily from root cuttings. 

LAGERSTRCEMIA INDICA, (Crape Myrtle)— Northern nurserymen, as 
a rule, do not handle this plant, owing to its being tender in the North. 
However, it is hardy enough to stand zero weather; but wh«m the mer- 
cury gets much lower the plant is apt to be killed to the ground. In 
the Southern States the Crape Myrtle is perhaps the best known of all 
the flowering shrubs, as there are few, if any, which exceed in beauty a 
well-developed specimen in full bloom. The flowers are bright pink and 
are arranged in immense heads, even on one year-old plants from seed. 
Large specimens grown in tubs, and kept in a cool greenhouse, can be 
made to flower two or three times during the year by cutting back the 
flowering branches. L. i. alba has pure white flowers, others are bright 
and pale shades of purple, rose and red. It is hardy in this section and 
is successfully grown much further North with a slight protection dur- 
ing Winter, for if the roots are protected with a covering of leaves, or 
rough litter, they will sprout vigorously and bloom profusely before the 
Summer passes. It is best propagated from seed, as all the colors come 
true. Sow in boxes about the latter part of September, on very firm 
soil, covering the seeds with finely sifted peaty soil. They will germinate 
in Spring, and if liberally treated some of them will bloom the same 
season. Young plants are always much more tender than those three 
years old and upward. 

LAURUS NOBILIS (Bay Tree)— In sheltered situations this well-known 
shrub occasionally survives the Winters in this section. It sometimes 
makes growths 6 feet long in a single season; these are necessarily soft 
and ill-prepared to stand severe weather. During the Winter of 1898 — 
1899 every plant was killed to the ground. Large specimen plants 
grown as standards and pyramids are imported for decorative pur- 
poses. They may be had in good condition for several years by 
attention to watering and keeping them indoors when there is dan- 
ger from frosts. Owing to their restricted root room there is little 
danger of their growing out of shape. 

LIQUSTRUn (Privet)— In this section L. japonicum is a very desirable 
evergreen species with large leaves. During very severe Winters the 
outer branches suffer considerably. I. Ibota, I. ovalifolium, and I. luci- 
dum are very attractive-looking shrubs when in flower. The European 
Privet, L. vulgare, has small flowers and foliage, and is the hardiest of 
the number There is a form with glaucous leaves, the margins of which 
are bordered with white. The deciduous species are among the easiest 



162 HARDY SHRUBS. 

shrubs to root from dormant cuttings. These may be put in as soon as 
the leaves fall. The evergreen species usually bear large quantities of 
seeds, which are slow in germinating; when they remain in the ground 
over Summer a mulching should be given to prevent drying. 

LONICERA (Bush Honeysuckle)— L. Standishii "comes in flower before 
the leaves appear, usually in February and March. The blooms are 
sweet-scented, but rather inconspicuous. In favorable seasons the orna- 
mental fruit is ripe during the first half of May. Seeds sown in Septem- 
ber will germinate the following Spring. The branches may be layered 
any time after midsummer. L. fragrantissima is almost an evergreen 
species here; it blooms early in the season, the flowers are very fragrant. 
It forms beautiful specimens when not interfered with by other shrubs 
and trees. It is best propagated by cuttings taken any time during a 
wet spell in Summer, and rooted indoors. After this process they may 
be heeled in boxes of soil, and, afterward, either planted in rows outside 
or kept in a frame till Spring. L. Albertii is a dwarf species with small 
and narrow glaucous leaves and purplish flowers. L. Morowii and L. 
Kuprechtiana are both valuable on account of their handsome red fruit, 
which ripens in great abundance. L. tatarica has numerous forms, 
differing from each other in the color of the flowers and fruits. L. t. 
grandiflora has bright red flowers striped with white; L. t. splendens 
has the flowers dark rose; L. t. grandiflora alba is pure white. They 
do best in sunny positions and are increased by layering; also from 
seeds. 

HAGNOLIA— All of the hardy species, some of which are fair-sized 
trees, are well worth growing. They may be divided into two sections 
—North American and Asiatic. Those of the former produce their 
flowers after the leaves are formed, while the deciduous, Asiatic species 
bloom for the most part on the naked wood, and very early in Spring. 
M. grandiflora, an evergreen species, native of the Southern States, 
begins blooming here about the end of May and continues throughout 
the Summer. In this section it is hardy, but during Winter, when the 
thermometer registers from 5 to 10 degrees below zero, the leaves are 
almost certain to fall, although without apparent injury to the plant. 
North of here it has a struggle for existence. Seeds sown in Autumn 
usually germinate in Spring. Seedlings are more vigorous than 
grafted plants, but they nevertheless take a considerable time before 
attaining a flowering size. M. macrophylla, another native, is known 
as the great-leaved Magnolia; it is much hardier than M. grandiflora. 
The leaves are from 2 to 3 feet long, and proportionately broad. The 
flowers are nearly a foot across. It is easily raised from seed. In this 
locality its blooming period is during the last half of May and early in 
June. M. glauca, M. g. Thomsoniana and M. g. Watsoni are all desira- 
ble hardy* shrubs. The two last named have larger flowers than the 
type. Among the Chinese and Japanese species and varieties, M. stellata 
is the earliest to come in bloom ; it is sometimes in full flower here by 
the middle of March. M. conspicua follows a week or ten days later; 
this is the finest of the Chinese species. As the large flowers expand 
before the foliage it is indeed a conspicuous plant when in bloom. M. 



HARDY SHRUBS. 163 

Soulangeana is thought to be a natural hybrid between M. conspicua 
and the dark purple flowered M. obovata. This is probably the case, as 
the color of the flowers would indicate; moreover, it is later in bloom- 
ing than M. conspicua and earlier than M. obovata. M. Kobus is a very 
shapely small tree, with small flowers which open early. It is used as a 
stock for grafting purposes. The seeds are certain to germinate evenly 
when sown as soon as ripe. M. Lennei is the showiest of the dark pur- 
ple-flowered kinds. The bloom is cup-shaped and very large; the petals 
are dark purple on the outside, lighter within. M. stellata is sometimes 
used as an Easter plant. When flowered in pots for this purpose it 
should be home grown, and plants selected for forcing which show the 
most buds. For forcing they may be potted in the Fall, but if the 
ground is in a condition to allow the plants to be lifted they can be 
successfully flowered a week or two afterward. Propagation is effected 
by seed, budding, grafting, and layering. Stocks may be chosen from 
M. Kobus, M. tripetala or M. acuminata. Layering should be practiced 
before the plants are in active growth. The best season for planting is 
just before the plants start into growth. 

NEVIUSA ALABAHENSIS is called the Alabama Snow Wreath. This 
name is a little misleading, as when in flower there is really nothing to 
suggest snow from the appearance of the bushes. The stamens are the 
most attractive part of the flower; they are greenish white. Propaga- 
tion is by division of the old plants; they sucker very freely. Summer 
cuttings can be depended on to root quickly. 

OSMANTHUS— This genus belongs to the same order as the Olive 
(Olea), under which the species are sometimes described. O. aquifolius 
has a certain resemblance to the English Holly (Ilex). The resemblance 
is still more striking in the variety O. a. ilicifolius, one of the handsomest 
evergreen shrubs outside of the Conifers. It has stood outdoors here 
for a long number of years. During very severe Winters it suffers very 
little, and in protected situations not at all. O. a. myrtifolius is a form 
with leathery, spineless leaves, but is not such a free-growing shrub as 
the others. Of O. a. ilicifolius there are one or two handsome variegated 
forms in cultivation, but they are less hardy than the green-leaved 
variety. They are easily propagated by cuttings, rooted indoors during 
the Fall months. O. a. ilicifolius seeds freely and the seedlings come 
true; they do not germinate till the second year. Privet stocks are used 
on which to graft the variegated forms. 

Pi€ONIA nOUTAN (Shrubby Pseonia)— The shrubby Peeonies are varie- 
ties of this species. They are hardy in the North; but their flower buds 
are quickly developed during mild weather, consequently they are apt 
to suffer from late frosts. They force well early in the season, but are 
only good for variety, as few flowers can be had on a moderate-sized 
plant. As border subjects they are desirable, making an attractive 
display during April or the first half of May. Propagation is by seeds, 
division and grafting. The single and semi-double forms will, in favora- 
ble seasons, ripen a considerable quantity of seed; they should not be 
allowed to remain in the seed vessels after they are ripe, as they harden, 
and germination will take longer than if sown when ripe. Sow in boxes 



164 HARDY SHRUBS. 

and keep under cover for the Winter. They should germinate in Spring. 
Seedlings are not as free flowering as grafted plants. The operation of 
grafting is best performed during the first half of September, in order 
that the union may be perfect and new roots produced by the stocks to 
give the Spring growth a vigorous start. For stocks any of the numer- 
ous varieties of the Chinese species may be taken; those varieties having 
the poorest flowers should, of course, be selected for the purpose. The 
wood taken for cions should be from the less robust part of the plant, 
that in which the large flower buds are absent being preferred. The 
leaves should be shortened back, and the cion attached to a good-sized 
piece of the fleshy part of the root of the herbaceous species by the 
easiest of the ordinary methods of grafting. Tie on with a string which 
will not rot in the ground during Winter, as support is needed in this 
way even after the cion has taken with the stock. The position to be 
occupied by the grafted stocks is the most important part of the opera- 
tion. Where the Winters are severe, a deep frame, facing north, is the 
best place for them. In this locality they are heeled in on a sheltered 
part of the open border, but deep enough in the soil, so that the lower 
part of the cion is covered. A layer of decayed leaves or sphagnum is 
kept on the surface of the soil, and the tops shaded for the first two 
weeks. In planting insert deep enough so as to give the cions every 
opportunity to send out their own roots. About the beginning of May 
the graft will have made considerable growth; each one should then be 
supported with a stick, else it is liable to become detached from the 
stocks. Division should only be attempted with plants which are well 
provided with short growths from the bases of the plants. 

PAULOWNIA IMPERIALIS (Empress Tree).— Under favorable condi 
tions this subject grows into a good-sized tree. During May, before the 
leaves appear, the large panicles of bright purple gloxinia-like flowers 
open out, making a most gorgeous appearance. A medium-sized tree will 
ripen an almost incredible number of seeds; they are quite small and 
need careful tending to germinate them successfully. Young plants, 
when cut down annually, throw up very strong shoots with leaves 
sometimes 2 feet in diameter, giving an effect not to be had with any 
other plant. It thrives in any soil. The Winter of 1898-1899 was 
the first to kill the flower buds on even large-sized trees in Washington. 
It is hardy in the North, but the flower buds, being naked, are usually 
killed by severe frosts. 

PA VI A MACROSTACHYA (Smooth=fruited Horse Chestnut)— This is a 
desirable shrub, growing from 3 to 9 feet high, spreading rapidly by 
means of stoloniferous roots. It flowers in June; the flowers are white, 
disposed in upright racemes. It is most easily propagated by division. 
P. rubra var. purpurea blooms in a very small state; it will succeed 
either in sun or shade. Seedlings make satisfactory blooming plants. 

PERSICA VULGARIS (Peach)— The double-flowering forms are among 
the most popular of dwarf-flowering trees. Their period of blooming is 
during April and May, according to locality. P. v. versicolor plena has 
the flowers either red or white on the same tree, or with both colors 
combined in the same flower. There are double red, double rose and 



HARDY SHRUBS. 165 

double white forms. They are increased by working on one-year-old 
seedling stocks of the common peach. 

PHILADELPHIA (Hock Orange, Syringa)— All of the species and their 
forms are valuable flowering shrubs with large white flowers, some 
of which are very fragrant. P. coronarius is one of the best known; 
P. c. primulaeflorus has double flowers; there is another with yel- 
lowish leaves. P. grandiflorus is a native of the Southern States; it 
has larger flowers than P. coronarius. P. Gordonianus is a late 
bloomer, with almost scentless flowers. They succeed in almost any 
soil. Cuttings taken after the leaves drop in Autumn will root very 
quickly if put in slight bottom heat in March or April; or in a protected 
place they root well in the open ground. Pruning should be done only 
after the flowers have faded. This will give the young wood an oppor- 
tunity to ripen. The flowers are only produced on the wood made the 
preceding Summer. 

POTENTILLA FRUTICOSA (Shrubby Cinquefoil)— A very hardy species 
growing from 2 to 5 feet high, with pinnate leaves and numerous bright 
yellow flowers, which are produced all through the Summer. Cuttings 
may be rooted at any time indoors during Summer. Small plants are 
very suitable for the rockery, and by pruning in the Spring they are 
easily kept within bounds . 

PRUNUS PADUS is the Bird Cherry. It bears long racemes of white 
flowers, in May, followed by ornamental black fruit. P. spinosa flore- 
pleno, the double flowering Sloe, forms a large shrub, usually covered 
with double white flowers in early Spring. The dwarf white, double- 
flowering Almond is P. japonica flore-alba-plena; the red form is P. j. 
flore-rubra-plena. They bloom for only a short period, but are exceed- 
ingly handsome while the flowers last. P. Pissardi is the purple-leaved 
Plum, of which there are good and bad forms; the good varieties retain 
their coloring till the end of the season. The flowers, usually borne in 
great profusion, open in early Spring before the leaves expand. In this 
locality the fruits are ripe by the end of May. Most of the species and 
forms are propagated by budding and grafting, but it is cheaper to buy 
than to work them in small quantities. 

PUNICA GRANATUn NANA (Dwarf Pomegranate)— Both the tall 
growing and dwarf Pomegranates stand our most severe Winters here 
without the least injury, and flower quite profusely during the Summer. 
They are all the more welcome, as their unique, bright scarlet flowers 
are produced when shrubs in bloom are scarce. In favorable seasons 
they ripen fruit, but we do not depend upon these for propagation. Cut- 
tings are taken from one and two-year-old wood, stored and put in a 
cool house propagating bed about the middle of February; they root 
very evenly. They should be removed to a frame as soon as they will 
bear it. The dwarf form makes a very ornamental shrub, and should 
be tried wherever it is likely to thrive. Native of Cabul and Persia. 

PYRUS (Crab=apple)— Highly ornamental low growing trees, usually 
covered with flowers early in Spring. Some of them have very highly 
colored fruits in Autumn. They are increased by budding and grafting 



166 HARDY SHRUBS. 

on seedling stocks. The flowers of P. Malus coronaria are large, single, 
pinkish-white, very sweetly scented. It bears fruit freely, but the seed- 
lings are slow in making flowering plants. P. M. floribunda and the 
variety called atrosanguinea are most beautiful when the flowers are 
half expanded; they are then of a bright rosy- red color, getting lighter 
when fully open. The flowers of P. M. Parkmanni are double, of a 
beautiful deep rose; valuable for cutting. It is a very free flowering 
variety and should be largely grown. P. M. carnea and P. M. lutea 
produce large numbers of flowers on small grafted plants. The double 
white and double rose colored forms of P. M. spectabilis are very desira- 
ble; they are very regular bloomers, seldom missing a season. P. M. 
floribunda and P. M f. atrosanguinea bloom freely in a small state, and 
should be grown more for forcing purposes. 

RHAPH10LEPIS OVATA— A charming little evergreen shrub, which is 
hardy here in sheltered situations. The flowers resemble those of a Cra- 
taegus; they are pure white, sweet-scented, about three-quarters of an 
inch across and arranged in terminal panicles. The leaves are leathery 
in texture and almost round. It ought to prove a good shrub for the 
Southern States. It is easily propagated by cuttings in the Fall, rooted 
indoors. 

RHODODENDRON.— In some parts these do grandly. In this locality, 
when given sheltered and partly shaded positions, they thrive tolerably 
well, but when in the full sun they do not thrive unless very carefully 
watched. Hybrids of R. ponticum are less hardy than those of R. 
catawbiense. This species and R. maximum are natives of the Eastern 
States; they should be given treatment similar to that recomended for 
Azalea. They are propagated by layering and grafting on seedling 
stocks of the hardy species, principally R. maximum. R. punctatum,a 
species from N. Carolina with small pink flowers, is quite hardy North. 
There are many beautiful greenhouse species and varieties, compara- 
tively few of which are cultivated in America. 

RHODOTYPOS KERRIOIDES (White Kerria)— This is a very desirable 
Japanese shrub, seldom growing over 8 feet high, although in its native 
country it is said to reach twice that height. The flowers make their 
appearance as soon as the growths of the current year develop, and 
keep up quite a display from about the middle of May all through the 
Summer and Fall months; that is, if the ground does not get too dry. 
The flowers are snow-white, aobut 2 inches in diameter, and appear at the 
ends of the shoots. The plant thrives well on heavy soils, and, although 
not necessarily, in places crowded and partly shaded by overhead foli- 
age. The seeds are in shape and size somewhat like those of the Canna. 
They may be sown as soon as gathered, as they are slow in germinating. 

RHUS COTINUS (Smoke Tree) — A species from Southern Europe? with 
very neat foliage. The whole plant is usually covered during mid- 
summer with a fringe-like substance, which gives rise to the name 
" Smoke Tree. 7 ' This substauce consists of the elongated hairy pedicels. 
R. glabra is one of the handsomest species, on account of its large, odd- 
pinnate leaves. R. g. laciniata has the leaflets much cut up, resembling 
the fronds of some Ferns; both are easily propagated from cuttings of 



BARBY SHRUBS. 167 

the roots. R. typhina, the Staghorn Sumach, grows from 10 to 30 feet 
high. The leaves are odd-pinnate, having from 11 to 31 leaflets. R. 
copallina is a shrub, growing from 1 to 7 feet high. Both are propa- 
gated by root cuttings, and also from seeds. R. Toxicodendron and R. 
venenata are poisonous species; the former is known as Poison Oak 
and Poison Ivy, the latter as Poison Sumach and Poison Dogwood. 

ROBINIA HISPIDA— The flowers of this species are deep rose colored, 
borne in hanging racemes. When grown on its own roots it suckers 
freely, and when planted among choice shrubs it soon appropriates 
space not intended for it. When worked on stocks of the False Acacia, 
R. Pseud-acacia, it is a more desirable shrub, but it requires frequent 
pruning to keep it in shape. Of R. Pseud-acacia there are low-growing 
and late-blooming forms; none of them are, however, superior to the 
type. They are worked on seedling plants of R. Pseuda-acacia. 

ROSA— (Rose). 

The Rose is without question the most popular of flowers, and it can 
hardly be wondered at, as in the very numerous species and varieties 
we have nearly every shade of color in the flower— -green, yellow, bronze, 
red, pink, white, purple and almost black. The flowers, be they single, 
semi-double or double, have much to please the eye, and their fragrance 
is unsurpassed. The cultivated varieties are divided into classes. Some 
of the varieties are differently arranged by different authorities. The 
arrangements are intended as aids to the published descriptions; thus 
the more easily do growers get an idea as to the habits of a new Rose 
when the originators class it with a section of the better-known varie- 
ties. But the varieties of the several groups have, to a certain extent, 
been crossed one with another, and there are very few people, even be 
they expert rosarians, who agree with each other on the position which 
some of our Roses should occupy in any system of classification. Again, 
as new breaks are made by the crossing of species and varieties, as has 
lately been done with the species R. Wichuraiana and R. rubiginosa, 
there arises a necessity for new class names. Some of the sections are 
but little grown in the Northern States, as the plants which do best in 
the colder parts of the country belong to only a few classes. The hybrid 
perpetuals, or hybrid remontants, are the best-known outdoor Roses, 
but for this purpose they are unsatisfactory both North and South. In 
the North they suffer during Winter, and in the South they are anything 
but ornamental after the flowering period, which is a short one. In 
this latitude they are at their best from the 25th of May till the 10th of 
June. They are, however, gorgeous while they last. Further North 
some of the kinds give a few scattering blooms in Autumn. General 
Jacqueminot, a variety raised nearly 50 years ago, is one of the most 
valued by amateurs, owing to its brilliant crimson, highly fragrant 
flowers. It is used to a considerable extent for forcing. When the plants 
are put out in solid beds, the sash are removed in Summer, to develop 
strong canes. At the proper season these are pruned, the plants top 
dressed, and the crop of flowers in early Spring is usually a heavy one. 
Some houses of this Rose in this vicinity have stood untouched, save in 



16$ HARDY SHRUBS. 

pruning and top dressing, for 15 years. The varieties Ulrich Brunner, 
Mrs. John Laing, Mme. Gabriel Luizet and Anne de Diesbach force well, 
and for outdoor culture they are among the best. 

Forcing — In forcing hybrid perpetuals the plants should be lifted 
when the growths are matured, pruned back, potted hard and placed in 
a cold frame. Plunge the pot among leaves, if there is a probability of 
their making a few roots before freezing weather without the buds 
starting into growth. Plunging will keep the roots safe and in a condi- 
tion ready for active work. When brought into a cool house, in the 
early part of the year, they need to be brought on very gradually so as 
to have feeding roots when the buds break. An examination of the 
roots will show when it is safe to force growth by giving gentle heat. 
American Beauty, sent out in 1885, is a perpetual bloomer and has, to a 
certain extent, taken the place of most of the older forcing varieties of 
the so-called hybrid perpetual class. This variety has had a wonderful 
career as a forcing Rose, and it is unlikely that its place will be taken by 
newcomers for some time at least. 

Propagation— Roses of this class for outdoor growth are propagated 
by budding, grafting and from cuttings. When it is desired to put in 
cuttings in the open ground the work should be done during the first 
half of October. Select a sheltered spot. Have the ground freshly 
worked, or, better still, the cuttings may be put in as the ground is dug. 
The cuttings should be at least 9 inches in length and only an inch or so 
should be exposed above the surface. Those cuttings having a heel are 
not so liable to decay as those cut between leaves, or at the base of a 
leaf. They should always be put in with the aid of a spade, as it allows 
firming with the feet; and if the soil needs it a little sand should be 
added while the trench is open, to induce healthy rooting. Half-rotted 
leaves, or rough stable litter, should be spread over the whole during 
hard freezing weather. When they are to be rooted indoors, the cuttings 
should be taken off later, tied in bundles and their bottom ends placed 
in moss, in a place low enough in temperature to keep the buds dor- 
mant. In Spring place in a gentle bottom heat, with the atmosphere 
cool. They will root readily by this method. The cuttings must be 
potted before the roots get long. In potting have the soil moderately 
moist, so that they will need little water until the roots begin to take 
with the soil. In grafting, which is done in Spring, cut back plants of 
the Manetti and Dog Rose are used, or pieces of the roots of these, or 
the roots of any of the free growing Roses, such as Mme. Plantier. 
Budding on stocks of Manetti, or the Dog Rose, is done in the open 
ground in late Summer. 

Propagation by Seeds— New varieties are largely raised from seeds 
ripened from hand-pollinated flowers. In raising plants from seeds, 
if sown as soon as ripe, they germinate very irregularly. Some of 
the hybrid perpetuals will germinate part of a crop and some of them 
will flower in two months from date of sowing. Other seedlings, ger- 
minated at the same period, will take at least a year to bloom, while 
other seeds of the same batch will lie in the seed pan over a year before 
vegetating. The reason why the seeds sometimes remain a long time 



HARDY SHRUBS. 169 

in the soil before germinating is owing to their being inclosed by a 
horny substance. This should be softened before sowing, by allowing 
the seeds to remain in boxes of finely sifted sand during the Winter, the 
boxes to be buried several inches below the surface of the soil out-of- 
doors. In removing the seeds from the sand previous to sowing, use a 
sieve with a small mesh; empty the sand (which is likely to be wet) 
into this, and force the sand through the meshes with the aid of a stream 
of water from the hose. The seeds should then be sown before getting 
dry. Care must be taken to remove them from their Winter quarters 
before vegetating, which they are apt to do, even when they are deep 
in the soil, as soon as the temperature of their surroundings reaches 
40 degrees. 

Teas and Hybrid Teas are the most important of all the classes, 
because they include the Koses mostly grown under glass to supply 
flowers all the year round. Although the varieties annually raised are 
numerous enough, those mostly grown in large quantities are either old 
kinds or sports from old kinds. Catherine Mermet is the parent of two 
— Bride and Bridesmaid; it is over 30 years since it was raised. La 
France, a hybrid Tea, the parentage of which is unknown, but it is said 
to have been raised from seed of a Tea Rose, is between 30 and 40 years 
old. Although in some cities a back number, in Washington it ranks 
next to American Beauty in price during the Winter, and is much in 
demand. Two of its sports, Duchess of Albany and Augustine Guinois- 
seau, have had their innings as forcing plants. If Golden Gate could be 
grown everywhere alike in size of flower, stem and productiveness, as it 
is in this locality, it would be a more popular Rose. Some flowers 
obtained here and exhibited in a Northern city not long ago, were taken 
for extra fine specimens of Souvenir du President Carnot — a hybrid Tea, 
which, like many others, has not fulfilled the predictions made for it a 
few seasons ago when first sent out. It has a habit of going to rest 
during the season when most wanted; but grand results are easily 
secured by resting, freezing and starting the plants, to have them in 
bloom by Easter, and depending upon them later for a supply of bloom 
during the Summer. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, another Rose of the 
same class, gives good results by similar methods. Meteor, a hybrid 
Tea, raised in the eighties, has been popular where tried, but solely on 
account of its color, which is dark crimson. The list of kinds which 
have been tried for forcing and discarded is a long one. Scarcely a year 
elapses without some new kind being sent out, and the fate of most of 
them is determined after a short trial. 

For Out=door Bloom the Teas are getting more popular year by year, 
and deservedly so, as they flower continuously during the Summer and 
Autumn months. If given a mulching of rotted manure and watered 
occasionally during dry spells, they are much more satisfactory than 
the hybrid perpetuals. Most of the kinds are quite hardy in this section. 
The tops are, of course, frequently killed, but this makes little difference, 
as the strong flowering wood is made from the base of the plants. 
Even much further North many of the kinds will stand the Winter, if 
protected by some loose material over the roots. But even where they 
are killed annually, the plants used during the Winter in the benches 



i?0 HARDY SHRUBS. 

make excellent material for planting out. If cut back and potted they 
take about ten days, in a suitable temperature, to throw out roots 
enough to insure successful growth when planted in the open border. 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Bridesmaid, La France and its forms, Sou- 
venir du President Carnot, Belle Siebrecht, Antoine Rivoire and White 
Maman Cochet are a few among a large number of others which can be 
depended upon to succeed. Among the other ever-blooming kinds R. 
rugosa and its hybrids are coming into prominence. One of the first 
hybrids, raised about 12 years ago, is named Mme. Georges Bruant. 
The flowers are large, semi-double, very sweetly scented, and in color 
are almost white, having a slight creamy shade to them. Under favor- 
able conditions, that is, where they are encouraged to send up fresh 
growths, blooms will be produced all through the season. Blanc de 
Coubert seems to be a double form of Rosa rugosa alba; it bears a pure 
white flower, is free blooming, and should be in every collection. The 
hybrid climbing Roses iuclude such kinds as Paul's Carmine Pillar and 
Climbing Victor Verdier. Coquette des Alpes and Coquette des Blanches 
are representatives of the Hybrid Noisettes. Other well-known ever- 
bloomers are Clothilde Soupert (Polyantha), Hermosa (Bourbon), and 
Champion of the World (Hybrid Bourbon). 

Cultivation Under Glass— Teas and Hybrid Teas are the Roses most 
largely grown for this purpose They are easiest propagated from cut- 
tings of the half-ripened wood. It does not seem to make much differ- 
ence whether flowering or blind wood is used. Cuttings may be taken 
to single eyes with the leaf shortened back, or made with two eyes and 
the lower leaf removed. A bottom heat of from 65 to 70 degrees will 
answer, the atmosphere of the house being 10 degrees lower. Propaga- 
tion is carried on from January to March. The plants are put out on 
the benches during June, from 3 or 4-inch pots, according to variety. 
Four inches of soil is the usual quantity ; the kind used should be rather 
heavy and fibrous loam mixed with rotted cow manure to about one- 
sixth of its bulk. Subsequent mulchings of rotted manure mixed with 
bone meal are given as the plants show the necessity for them. Abun- 
dance of ventilation is afforded during warm weather. If shading is ne- 
cessary it should be done with a substance which is easily removed, such 
as grafting clay mixed with water and applied with a syringe or pump. 
Firing should begin when the outside temperature drops to 50 degrees; 
the minimum night temperature of the house should be kept in the neigh- 
borhood of 55 degrees, rising to 70 degrees during the day for the Teas 
and Hybrid Teas, with the exception of Meteor, which thrives best with 
a minimum of 65 degrees. Watering is an item of the first importance. 
The condition of the soil is the best indicator as to whether water should 
be given or withheld. The first buds are cut off to induce robust 
growth. Syringing is necessary, to prevent red spider from increasing, 
but should only be practiced in bright weather. Ventilation is not less 
important than watering, and good judgment must be exercised in 
opening and closing the house; the condition of the weather out-of- 
doors must always be taken into consideration as well as the indoor 
temperature, as cold draughts, or tne temperature getting too low will 



BARDT SHRUBS. 171 

almost certainly provide correct conditions for an attack of mildew— a 
fungus which in a short period, if allowed to grow unchecked, will ruin 
the plants. When mildew makes its appearance, sulphur applied to the 
steam or hot water pipes is the best antidote. Aphides are best checked 
by vaporizing. American Beauty, as already stated, is a hybrid per- 
petual, and when cultivated under glass it is an ever-bloomer. It is 
grown in a slightly warmer atmosphere than the Teas, and is often very 
successfully cultivated in solid beds. Medium-sized wood should be 
chosen for the cuttings, and these made with two eyes. They should 
be planted out of 4-inch pots. 

Propagation by Grafting— There seems to be a difference of opinion 
as to the benefits to be derived from this method of propagation, but 
each grower may settle it for himself by giving it a trial. The stocks 
should be prepared by potting in 3-inch pots; in thickness they should 
correspond as near as possible with that of the cion — the cion should 
never be of a greater diameter than that of the stock. Any of the com- 
mon methods of grafting will answer. The cion should be securely 
fastened in position with raffia. As soon as tying is completed, it is 
necessary that the plants be kept in a suitable atmosphere to preserve 
the leaves of the cions so that the union may be hastened. In grafting 
hybrids this is not so necessary, as they can be handled without leaves. 
A brisk heat under the plunging material will quicken the action of the 
roots and effect a union safely without the aid of a frame; but with 
Teas it is necessary to have them in an almost air-tight structure. If 
only a few hundred are to be experimented with, part of a side bench 
may be set apart for the purpose of receiving the grafted plants, and 
may be prepared as follows: Have the front and back boards higher 
than the plants. Ordinary sash laid lengthwise of the bench will suit 
all right, provided they can be arranged so as to keep the atmosphere 
warm and humid. To facilitate easy access to the plants the sash may 
be temporarily hinged on to the back boards with pieces of leather, and 
the sash tilted in front with a stick. Select a stretch of bench that can 
be relied upon to supply a temperature of from 70 to 80 degrees inside 
of the frame. First put a layer of sphagnum on the bench — one inch 
closely packed will do. Over this put some ashes, or sand, on which to 
stand the pots. The other conditions necessary for a quick union will 
readily sugest themselves, air being given very gradually after the union 
has taken plaee. When hardened off, growth will be accelerated by a 
shift into larger pots. 

Summer Roses— According to locality May, June and July is the 
period during which the Summer Roses bloom. They are known as 
Ayrshire, Prairie, Austrian, Moss, Provence (Cabbage or Centifolia), Mul- 
tiflora, Hybrid Sweet Briars, Hybrid China, Musk and Hybrid Wichu- 
raiana. Bennett's Seedling is a well-known representative of the Ayr- 
shire class. Among the Prairie Roses Baltimore Belle and Queen of the 
Prairies are old but grand kinds, splendidly adapted as climbers; they 
are very hardy and late in blooming. The Austrian Briars are among 
the earliest to flower; they form good-sized bushes and require little 
attention in the way of pruning. Austrian Copper has large, single 
flowers of a brilliant coppery-red on the upper surfaces of the petals; 



172 HARDY SHRUBS. 

the under surfaces are much paler in color. Austrian Yellow has large 
single yellow flowers. Harison's Yellow and Persian Yellow are semi- 
double forms. The Wichuraiana hybrids are destined to cut quite a 
figure as hardy climbers. The female parent, R. Wichuraiana (R. Lucia 1 ) 
is a Japanese species, of a rambling habit, with clusters of small white 
flowers, which open late. The leaves are small and shining. The plant 
lasts only a shoit time in bloom, but a well-established subject bears 
thousands of flowers. This is the easiest of all Roses to propagate. 
The new race of hybrids which have been raised lately are, in some 
cases, several weeks ahead of R. Wichuraiana in blooming; they appear 
to be very hardy. The flowers of R. Wichuraiana are capable of being 
fertilized with pollen from a large number of different varieties, and the 
resulting progeny varies greatly. Some have large, single flowers 
exceeding in size any of the recent hybrid Sweet Briars; others are 
small, very double, with petals arranged like the florets of a Zinnia. 
Some again have the flowers so closely resembling those of the variety 
Hermosa as to be mistaken for these, but the habit of all of the seed- 
lings, so far as I have observed, is the same. W. A. Manda, of South 
Orange, N. J., was the first to raise hybrids from this species. Lord 
Penzance's Hybrid Briars also belong to the Summer blooming class. R. 
rubiginosa, the Sweet Briar, is the seed parent; this has been crossed 
with various other Roses. The flowers of the hybrids are bright col- 
ored and showy, but the most attractive feature is the sweet-scented 
foliage. 

During recent years the Summer blooming section has been enriched 
by a Rose concerning which little is known beyond its being a Japanese 
production. It was brought to Scotland early in the seventies, and for 
nearly 20 years grew in the garden of a Mr. Jenner, near Edinburgh. It 
was secured by Turner, of Slough, and sent out in 1894. The name 
" Engineer," which it had borne up to that time, was changed to Crim- 
son Rambler. It is a climber, of very vigorous growth, and very hardy. 
The flowers are borne in large clusters. The color is bright crimson. As 
was to be expected the great popularity of this Rose suggested Pink, 
Yellow and White Ramblers, but while the Roses which are thus 
described are good in their way, we have yet to see pink, yellow and 
white forms of the Crimson Rambler. This Rose has become a favorite 
sort for forcing into bloom at Easter, the plants for which purpose are 
either grown in pots or in the open ground. Plants grown by the latter 
method are much stronger than those in pots, but they require greater 
care in handling. The roots should not be allowed'to get the least dry 
before potting. It is propagated in Spring and Autumn. When the 
wood is ripe and the leaves begin to fall, quite a number of short stubby 
growths will be found on the flowering shoots of the previous Summer's 
flowering wood; these, if made into cuttings about 10 inches long, and 
buried up to within an inch of the ends of the shoots, will root freely. 
Place them in some shaded spot, and in Winter cover with half-decayed 
leaves or straw to prevent quick thawing and freezing. A quicker 
method of propagation is to take half-ripened wood from indoor plants 
in Spring; these are potted as soon as rooted, and either grown on in 
pots or planted out when weather permits. 



HARDY SHRUBS. 173 

SHEPHERDIA ARGENTEA (Rabbit Berry)— Under favorable conditions 
this species grows into a small tree. The leaves, owing to the presence 
of an immense number of small silvery scales, are almost white on both 
sides, and from a distance the plants look as if they were covered with 
white flowers. The blooms are small, produced singly or in pairs in the 
axils of the leaves; they are exceedingly fragrant. S. canadensis is a 
smaller species, reaching a height of 6 feet. Both are easily raised from 
seeds. 

SPIR/EA— The shrubby species worth growing; are too numerous to 
mention here. One of the earliest to flower, and a favorite kind, is S. 
prunifolia; S. Reevesii and its double form are both popular. S. Thun- 
bergii blooms very early in the season when there are but few leaves 
on the plant; the flowers are small, but they make up in numbers for 
what they lack in size. All of the above have white flowers. S. salici- 
folia and its varieties bloom in dense panicles late in the season. This, 
with S. paniculata rosea, another late bloomer, has pink flowers. S.' 
Van Houttei is one of the best kinds which flower in May or June; it 
makes a good forcing plant. S. Bumalda and S. B. Anthony Waterer 
have the flowers disposed on the ends of the shoots of the current year's 
growths, in flat heads, several inches in diameter. In S. Bumalda the 
flowers are rose colored; its variety has dark crimson blossoms. Both 
are dwarf, but very vigorous and easily propagated from the young 
wood. S. sorbifolia, S. grandiflora and S. Lindleyana are distinct from 
the others in having odd-pinnate leaves and the flowers arranged in 
large panicles, produced late in the season. S. sorbifolia dies down to 
the ground each season, and during extra hard Winters the other two 
behave in a similar way; but they make growth enough the following 
Summer to flower. S. Lindleyana is useful for planting in large groups. 
A native of the Himalayas it is probably unsuited for Northern sections 
unless well protected. All three are easily raised from seeds, or by 
division. 

STAPHYLEA (Bladder Nut)— S. colchica and S. Bumalda bloom very 
early in the season. They have the reputation of being the easiest 
shrubs to bring into flower under artificial conditions. They belong to 
the Maple family, and are natives of Japan and Europe. S. colchica has 
fairly large-sized racemes of almost pure; white flowers, very agreeably 
scented. Young plants with flowering wood can be got up in two years 
by taking cuttings of dormant wood in Autumn, heeling in moss, intro- 
ducing them to gentle bottom heat in March. 

SYMPHORICARPUS RACEMOSUS (Snowberry)— This species is grown 
on account of the large white fruits which hang from the ends of the 
branches during the Autumn and Winter months. S. vulgaris has red 
fruits, but much smaller than those of S. racemosus. They are propa- 
gated by seed, cuttings, or by division. 

SYRINGA (Lilac)— About a dozen species of this popular genus are in 
cultivation. Most of them, however, are of little value for cut bloom. 
They are handsome while in flower, but they do not pay to grow along- 
side of the varieties of the common species, S. vulgaris. Of these there is 



174 HARDY SHRUBS. 

an abundance to choose from. S. chinensis, a small-leaved kind, is valu- 
able on account of the long stems which support the flower heads. S. 
persica, the Persian lilac, and S. p. laciniata make rather handsome 
bushes, -which is more than can be said of most of the kinds, as they are 
decidedly unsightly when out of bloom compared with the majority of 
ornamental shrubs. They are all natives of the old world. S. vulgaris 
is indigenous of central Europe. Some of the finer varieties are as fol- 
lows: Alba grandiflora and Marie Legraye, both large flowered and 
pure white forms; Louis Van Houtte, dark red; Dr. Lindley, purplish 
lilac; Charles X., reddish-purple; Leon Simon, double, bluish-crimson; 
Emile Lemoine, double, rosy-lilac; Mme. Lemoine, double white. Propa- 
gation is effected on in a variety of ways— seeds, suckers, layering, cut- 
tings from half ripe or dormant wood, budding and grafting. Raising 
plants from seeds is practiced for producing new varieties and for sup- 
plying stocks. The best stock is the Californian Privet, Ligustrum ova- 
lifolium. Layering is a sure method, and when a limited number of 
plants is wanted it is the one which should be practiced. 

TAMARIX — All of the species give little trouble in their propagation. 
If cuttings 6 inches long be made from the previous year's wood, and 
put in gentle heat in the early Spring, they will root in a few days. Out- 
door propagation will require the cuttings to be made nearly a foot 
long. 

ULEX EUROP^US (Whin, dorse, Furze)— Although this beautiful 
shrub frequently gets winter-killed with us, yet we would not think of 
doing without it. It is useful for planting in the front of a shrubbery, 
in sunny places. It starts into active growth very early in the season, 
and late frosts do more injury than the very severe frosts of midwinter, 
although, like many other things, it does not like rapid thawing and 
freezing during Winter. Seedlings are easily raised, and with good 
treatment they will bloom when two years old. 

VIBURNUM, (Snowball, Gueder Rose)— Owing to their large and 
showy heads of sterile flowers, several of the kinds are much grown in 
shrubberies, in groups on lawns, and for cutting. V. Opulus sterilis is 
the one most largely cultivated; it comes in earlier than the Japanese 
species, V. plicatum, |which is the best for cutting, as the flowers last 
longer, having more substance to^ them. When propagated from cut- 
tings the growing tips should be taken in Summer; this must be done 
during a wet spell or from bushes which have been kept watered, other- 
wise the cuttings are very apt to lose their leaves during the process. 
V. macrocephalum, as the name implies, has large heads of flowers; in 
fact, too large to be of much service in cutting. This form is shy in root- 
ing from cuttings, and is usually worked on seedlings of any of the free- 
growing species. There are numerous species, but their flowers are not 
showy. V. reticulatum has very handsome foliage, and forms a neat 
tall bush. Propagated from green cuttings. V. Tinus is an evergreen 
species, frequently getting injured here during Winter; there are several 
desirable forms of it. 

VITEX AGNUS=CASTUS (Chaste Tree)— In this section one of our 
best late blooming shrubs, surviving the Winter without protection. 



HARDY SHRUBS. 175 

The flowers are purplish-blue or white. The plant blooms in August 
and September. V. cannabsefolia forms large, wide bushes, but it suffers 
during very severe weather. Both species are best raised from seeds. 
There is a hybrid form between the two species, with V. Agnus-castus 
as the seed parent; it is equally as hardy as that species, and comes 
true from seed. 

XANTHOCERAS SORBIFOLIA, a native of Central China, was first 
grown in Europe about 30 years ago. It flowers after reaching a height 
of about 18 inches. Adult specimens, it is said, reach a height of 20 
feet. The flowers are arranged singly, on a central stalk, which is sev- 
eral inches long. The stalk is upright, the bottom flowers opening first. 
In general appearance the individual flowers have a striking resemblance 
to those of the Shortia galacifolia. They have the same crumpled appear- 
ance on first opening. The outward parts of the petals are pure white, and 
nearest the base the color is at first yellowish green, subsequently 
streaked with brownish-red and eventually changing to a brighter red. 
The flower stalks are produced on the endsof the previous season's wood; 
flowers and foliage expand together. In appearance the foliage some- 
what resembles that of the Mountain Ash. The fruit is quite large, fully 
the size of a horse chestnut. The seeds are brownish black, three-quar- 
ters of an inch in diameter. They should be sown soon as ripe and kept 
cool so as not to force germination until the middle of April. To insure 
the best results each seed should be sown singly in a 3-inch pot. This 
does away with the possibility of injuring the tender roots in transfer- 
ring to larger receptacles or to nursery rows. From some cause many 
of the seeds produce plants which are entirely white instead of green; 
these die when a few weeks old. 

YUCCA (Adam's Needle)— The hardy species of- this genus are all 
ornamental plants thriving in situations fully exposed to the sun. 
Almost any soil will suit them. Some of the most useful species are Y. 
gloriosa (of which there are numerous varieties, one of the best being 
Y. g. recurvifolia), Y. angustifolia and Y. filamentosa. They are 
increased by dividing the stems and replanting in a shaded spot until 
rooted; also, in some species, by seeds, and from root cuttings. 



176 



General Directions* 



... 



Propagation— Seeds, Grafting, Budding, and Layering 
Hybridization, Potting Plants, Drainage, Soil, 
Mulching, Watering. 

PROPAGATION. 

All plants may be propagated by one or more of the following 
methods: Seeds, spores, bulbils, budding, grafting, layering, cuttings of 
the stems, twigs, leaves and roots, suckers, divisions of the crowns or 
by stolons or runners. Cuttings are usually made from dormant wood 
in the cases of shrubs and trees whether they be evergreen or deciduous; 
and in the case of soft wooded plants the growths most recently made 
are those selected. Cuttings of leaves sometimes root freely and produce 
young plants or tubers, as in Begonia rex and Gloxinia. There are many 
devices in which to root cuttings, such as double bell glasses placed over 
double pots, one of the pots being supplied with w ater, the other with 
sand; handlights, and so forth; but they are of little service and are 
seldom used. Deciduous shrubs are usually propagated out-of-doors. 
Hardy perennials, such as Iberis, Dianthus and Onosma are propagated 
in cold frames. Many of the evergreen shrubs do well in a propagating 
house from which frost is kept out, while the tender plants, both hard 
and soft wooded, are rooted in an open bed of a warm house the atmos- 
pheric temperature of which does not fall lower than 55 degrees during 
the coldest weather. For plants which need more heat a propagating 
frame is easily erected in the warmest part of the house; this, with a 
minimum bottom heat of 75 degrees, serves for Nepenthes and other 
plants slow to root under ordinary conditions. Propagation by 
suckers, division, stolons and runners is an easy matter, and each species 
so treated readily suggests the means to be employed. Many plants 
difficult to propagate by the usual methods of cuttings of the branches 
yield readily to cuttings made from the roots. The Moss Rose is a fa- 
miliar example. Clerodendrons, Fatsias, Paulownia imperialis, Rasp- 
berry, Blackberry and Xanthoceras all come freely from roots. Among the 
herbaceous plants the roots of Anemone japonica and Lychnis vesper- 
tina, when cut up quite small, will give plants from every piece. Indoor 
plants, such as Manettia cordifolia and Cephaelis ipecacuanha will give 
plants more readily by this method than any other. 

Seeds— The soil in which to sow seeds, especially that portion of it 
which is near the surface, and in which there are weed seeds, should be 
prepared beforehand so as to avoid the necessity of pulling up the weeds 
and the consequent danger attending the operation of dislodging the 
seeds which we wish to germinate, especially during the process of ger- 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 177 

mination. The most natural method is to spread the soil out on a flat 
surface in a hothouse and encourage the weed seeds to germinate by the 
aid of heat and moisture. The soil should be spread out quite shallow, 
and in a few days' time the seeds that are likely to prove most trouble- 
some will have germinated. The weeds that one finds most noxious are 
quick in germinating, and will be rendered harmless by this method. 
They are principally Lamium, Plantago, Eagweed, Grasses, Draba, An- 
themis, Kumex, Portulaca, Acalpyha, Oxalis and Trifolium ; but the list 
varies with different localities. Burning or steaming the soil is often 
resorted to, but for seed sowing I prefer the other method as more likely 
to rid the soil thoroughly of the common, troublesome weeds. Soil in- 
tended for use in connection with raising Ferns from spores should be 
treated even more carefully, in order to destroy every vestige of vegeta- 
ble life. To do this thoroughly the soil should be boiled for a reasonable 
length of time, and afterward dried in the sun. Seedlings which from 
their nature require pricking off (that is putting around the outer edge 
of the soil in pots, or in rows, in boxes) shortly after the seed leaves are 
developed, should be raised in seed vessels which have at least half their 
depth devoted to drainage. Most of this should consist of pieces of 
broken pots, or cinders, covered over with some rough material, such as 
half-decayed leaves, to prevent the soil washing down. In very shallow 
seed vessels, whether pans or boxes, the bottom part should be covered 
with rough screenings, with finer soil above, and pressed moderately 
firm. In covering the seeds the old rule is to cover the seed with its own 
thickness in soil, and if followed out few mistakes will be made. The 
covering should not be of such a nature as to bake readily; finely 
screened sphagnum moss mixed with sand is a good substance with 
which to cover almost any medium-sized seeds that take a reasonably 
short time in germinating, as it retains moisture without imparting too 
much to the soil below. Very small seeds, such as those of Begonias 
and Gloxinias, do not need any covering; but to preserve a humid 
atmosphere around them, or to furnish the conditions necessary for 
germination, they must be covered with something which prevents a 
too rapid evaporation of moisture. This is supplied by a pane of glass, 
which should be kept on until the seed leaves appear. It need not fit 
tightly, so as to preclude the possibility of a slight circulation of air; 
where this is the case the seedlings are apt to dampen, even before the 
seed leaves are developed. Where glass is used as a covering for small 
seeds the soil ought to be moderately moist before sowing. Thickly 
sown seed is an evil to be guarded against, a crowded box or pan of 
seedlings, whether they be Ferns or flowering plants, is next to useless, 
because shortly after germinating the seedlings begin to get weak and 
never afterward make such healthy plants as those which get a chance 
to form short, stocky growth— enough at least to enable one to handle 
them easily during the operation of pricking or potting off. Seeds, as 
soon as germinated, as a rule, should not be kept in a shaded place, as 
then they are apt to get " drawn; " that is, too much length between 
the surface of the soil and the seed leaves. Most seedlings in the early 
part of the season will stand all the sun they can get. This especially 
applies to seedlings of such plants as Phlox Drummondii, Madagascar 



178 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

Vincas and Verbenas. Among herbaceous perennials some of the Del- 
phiniums and Rheums, also many of the umbelliferous plants have seed- 
lings with the petioles of the seed lea ves forming a long tube and looking 
as if they were very much " drawn," no matter whether grown in sun 
or shade. But this is their nature, as the plumule has to penetrate the 
tube near the base in order to reach the light, instead of between the 
blades of the seed leaves. A great many kinds of plants in the seedling 
stage, when pricking off becomes necessary, are not of sufficient size to 
go into small pots; in these they take up too much room and are apt to 
suffer from too much or too little water. One will get dry here and 
there, and the chances are that when water is given others in the neigh- 
borhood will get water when they do not need it. Putting several in a 
pot is just as unsatisfactory, as they must be divided up as soon as 
sufficient growth is made, and repotted. This applies especially to her- 
baceous plants which have a large number of fibry roots instead of a 
tap root. I find the plan of putting the seedlings in boxes, when large 
enough to handle, to be the most satisfactory method. Watering is then 
an easy matter, and the seedlings, when large enough, can be trans- 
ferred to the open ground or potted up as required— it is a saving of 
space and a saving in labor, especially when the seedlings are transferred 
to frames and to their permanent quarters. The seeds of many plants 
may be safely sown at almost any time of the year. The majority of 
herbaceous plants should be sown during the late Summer, as they 
occupy comparatively [little space throughout the Winter months, and 
numerous species will bloom the succeeding year, especially if the plants 
be put in their permanent positions in the Fall, which I have found a 
very advisable thing to do in this section. Seeds of herbaceous plants, 
sown early in Spring, especially by amateurs, do not help in making 
those plants popular, as the seedlings in the majority of cases do not 
flower the first year, and some of the species not even during the second 
season. 

Grafting consists of placing together two separate parts of plants so 
that they will unite and grow as one. That part on which the graft is 
placed is usually a plant provided with roots, and is called the stock. 
The graft, or cion, is the part which is intended to develop into the 
future part of the tree, shrub, or vine, as the case may be, which bears 
leaves, flowers and fruits. When the union has taken place, both stock 
and cion continue developing as one plant, with, in most instances, very 
little to indicate that stock and cion, or roots and branches, belong to 
different species, varieties, or forms. Grafting is, however, frequently 
done upon the branches of trees, shrubs or even herbaceous plants, so 
that frequently we may see several varieties in flower together, or earlier 
or later as the case may be, with the flowers of the species, or variety, 
upon which the grafts are growing. Some of the reasons why grafting 
is resorted to as a means of propagating certain species, but principally 
varieties and forms, in preference to other methods of propagation, are 
as follows: In growing seedling fruit trees it often requires a long num- 
ber of years to know whether these seedlings are worth perpetuating, 
as seedlings are apt to be a long time in fruiting, partly owing to their 
robust growth; but every species of plant raised from seed takes a cer- 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 179 

tain time before the flowering and fruiting stage is reached. When old 
enough to give wood for cions, the seedlings which we will suppose to 
be the results of cross-fertilization, are grafted on older seedlings, or 
fruit-bearing stocks, with the result that flowering and fruiting are hast- 
ened very considerably. When it is desired to propagate a large num- 
ber of any selected variety that has thus been flowered and fruited, the 
grafts are often used on one or two-year-old seedling stocks. It will 
thus be seen that a very large number of slow flowering and fruiting 
plants can be raised by this method, in a comparatively short time. 
But the uses to which it is put by no means end here. Some flowering 
shrubs have the same characteristics; they take quite a long while to 
flower from the seedling stage. Very often seedlings do hot make florif- 
erous plants, and many of the forms do not produce seeds at all. There- 
fore, recourse is had to grafting, not only to lessen as much as possible 
the time between the periods of propagation and flowering, but also to 
perpetuate certain peculiarities in species and varieties which can not 
be brought about by seeds or cuttings. Again, frequently the stock has 
beneficial influences upon the cion. One of them is that some things 
which are comparatively tender are rendered hardier by being grafted 
upon the stocks of hardy species, or their varieties. For outdoor graft- 
ing the usual time is in the Spring, just before the plants are in active 
growth, the actual time varying, of course, with different plants and in 
different parts of the country. The cions are cut in early Winter, and 
buried in the soil or sand, just out of the reach of frost. This keeps them 
fresh and plump, and in a condition to readily unite with the stock. 
The methods of grafting are numerous; some of them are quite compli- 
cated and have been originated merely to show the skill of some oper- 
ator. The easiest way may be said to be the best, and the best methods 
are so easy that an intelligent child may be taught in a short time to 
perform the work successfully. Indoor grafting is practiced during 
August and September, and, with dormant wood, during the period 
from December to March. As a rule, the closer the relationship between 
stock and cion the greater the chances of a successful union between 
them. But plants are sometimes successfully grafted on stocks of differ- 
ent genera of the same order. The Syringa on the Ligustrum is a fa- 
miliar example. Some of the most familiar methods of grafting are as 
follows : 

Saddle Grafting— In this case that part of the stock on which the cion 
is to be placed is cut to a wedge shape. A neatly made notch is cut in 
the bottom part of the wood of the cion to fit closely over the wedge- 
shaped part of the stock. This method is used in grafting Rhododen- 
drons. 

Crown grafting is performed by heading back a large-sized stock, 
making an incision in the bark from the severed part downward. Raise 
the bark on each side of the perpendicular cut, as in budding; make a 
slanting cut on one side of the cion, and insert beneath the bark; bind 
together and cover with grafting wax. 

Veneer grafting is principally practiced on coniferous plants and 
Rhododendrons. It consists of making a cross cut through the bark 



180 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

and slightly into the wood. A short distance above this cross cut begin 
with a slanting cut downward until the first cut is reached ; shape the 
cion so that it fits exactly ; tie in position and cover with wax. The 
stock is headed back after the union has taken place. 

Tongue or whip grafting is used with seedlings as stocks, the stock 
and cion being of the same thickness. A slanting cut is made on the 
two surfaces to be joined with a tongue in each, so made that the 
tongues will fit exactly in their places. A little practice will show where 
the tongues should be made. 

Inarching consists of uniting the cion to the stock while it is still 
supported by the parent root. It is the simplest of all the methods. A 
slice of bark and cambium is cut from both stock and cion, the two 
brought together so as to fit exactly; they are then firmly tied. After 
the union is assured the cion is gradually severed from the parent to 
avoid a too sudden check. 

Root grafting is a very simple operation, and is practiced with such 
plants as Clematis, Rose, Shrubby PaBony, and many other plants. 
When all other stock fails this may be tried, merely selecting roots of the 
same or allied species. The Shrubby Pseonies are grafted on the large 
tuber-looking roots of the herbaceous species. A notch is made in the 
side of the swollen tuber-like root, the lower part of the cion being made 
to fit this. 

With Roses and Clematis splice grafting will answer; with Wistarias 
and Bignonias saddle grafting answers well. 

In grafting a very sharp and clean knife should be used, to make a 
clean cut, so that the surfaces may go closely together. In all cases the 
bark of both stock and cion should come evenly together, at least on 
one side, and on both if possible. 

Budding differs from grafting in that only a single bud is used on the 
stock instead of a piece of branch on which there are one or more buds. 
As in grafting a near relationship must exist between the plant from 
which the bud is selected and the plant which is to receive it. The opera- 
tion is a trifle more delicate than that of grafting, but a little practice 
will render it an easy task. The best time for the work is after the 
plants have completed most of their growth, but before they approach 
the dormant stage. All that is necessary to accomplish the first season, 
when done during late Summer, is to secure a union. The bud remains 
dormant until the following Spring. There are several methods; that 
most commonly practiced consists of making a cross cut through the 
bark of the stem of the stock. It should never be greater than for one- 
third of the circumference. From the center of the cross cut make a longi- 
tudinal cut downward; raise the bark sufficiently in the angles of the 
cut parts. The stock is now ready for the reception of the bud. This is 
taken usually from a branch smaller in circumference than the stock. 
It must necessarily be from the current year's wood, and the bud should 
be from the central part of the shoot. Cut the leaf away, but not too 
near the bud, and with a sharp, clean knife slice the bud from the shoot. 
It is immaterial if a little of the wood be taken with the bark, but the 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 181 

length of bark should be greater below the bud than above. The top 
part should be cut off transversely one-third of an inch above the bud 
and double that distance below. After the bud has been placed in posi- 
tioo, tie moderately firm with raffia, examining it from time to time to 
prevent the raffia from cutting into the bark. Budding is usually per- 
formed during the latter part of Summer. 

Layering — This operation is on the same priaciple as that of mossing 
Rubber plants and Crotons, that is, producing roots on the branches 
while yet attached to the parent plant. It is exceedingly simple when 
done correctly, but some of the little details left out, or performed the 
wrong way, will render the operation unsuccessful. An expert, with 
shrubs amenable to this method of increase, will seldom lose a layer. 
Briefly stated, the operation consists of bending a branch low enough 
so that after it has been notched, tongued or ringed, as the case may 
be, the part so treated should be several inches beneath the surface of 
the soil, so as to throw out roots, while being at the same time supplied 
with nourishment from the parent plant. It is a convenient method of 
rooting large pieces of a bush, and should be practiced where small 
quantities of certain things are desired, especially those which are diffi- 
cult to increase by other methods of propagation. In layering it is 
necessary to select branches near the ground, so that they can be bent 
down without breaking. To perform the operation by tongueing, with 
a sharp knife make an incision in the lower part of the branch at the 
place where it is desired to have the roots. The incision should vary in 
length and depth with the thickness of the branch; it should never be 
deeper than half the thickness of the wood, and should be made toward 
the end of the branch so that the tongue will eventually form the base 
of the stem after being separated from the parent plant. The layer, 
while undergoing the process of rooting, should be held in place with a 
peg, which must be strong enough to last several months in the ground. 
With few exceptions shrubs and vines are layered during Summer while 
the plants are in active growth. In layering, it should be kept in mind 
that the soil surrounding the part from which roots are desired should 
never be allowed to get dust dry; to prevent this a little sphagnum 
moss should be placed around the cut part, in cases where the rooting 
is a slow process; and a layer of moss, or other material, on the surface 
of the soil will prevent a too rapid evaporation of moisture. But, in 
any case, copious waterings during dry weather will be found beneficial. 
In the treatment of vines, such plants as Glycine sinensis and Pueraria 
Thunbergiana can be layered the entire length of the previous season's 
growth, thus giving a plant at every joint. The period at which the 
layer may be severed from the parent must be governed by the quantity 
of roots made. Better to keep it on the plant than to sever too early. 
After a season has elapsed the majority will have rooted, if attention 
has been given; but it will not hurt to let them stay for a longer period 
attached to the old plant. For furnishing suitable wood for layers, old 
plants are sometimes cut down quite close ^to the ground, in order to 
produce a quantity of young growth. Plants so treated are termed 
"stools." Some of the plants which layer easily are Rhododendrons, 
Enkianthus, Gordonias, Magnolias, especially the Asiatic species and 



182 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

their hybrid variations, Syringas, Forsythias, Ligustrums and the 
Hybrid Perpetual Koses. 

HYBRIDIZATION. 

Much has been accomplished by the union of species, and especially by 
the crossing of varieties; but the work is only in its infancy, because 
that which has already been done has been, to a large extent, chance 
work. We do not possess well-established rules for guidance in the 
selection of parents. Much labor has unwittingly been expended 
upon impossible subjects, through a desire on the part of the oper- 
ator to produce some astonishing result all at once. Even from 
plants which readily cross, many seedlings are raised, which, be- 
cause of poor judgment used in selection of parents, only result in 
discouraging the breeder. Beginners who are inclined to practice 
hybridizing should confine their attenion toward improving types 
which are already well advanced, possibly using a desirable spe- 
cies as a seed parent, but fighting shy of crossing two species. To prose- 
cute the actual work inteligently, the operator should have at least a 
slight knowledge of the relationship of one species to another as well as 
of the genera and natural orders. A knowledge of the different parts of 
a flower and the missions they are intended to fulfill are absolutely 
necessary. It may be briefly stated that most flowers have male and 
female organs in the same flower, such as we find in flowers of the Eose. 
Some plants have the male and female organs on separate flowers, but 
on the same plant as in Begonia. Others again have the male flowers 
on one plant, and the female flowers on another, as in Nepenthes and 
Willow. Artificial pollination consists simply in transferring the pollen 
from the anther of one flower to the stigma of another. To make sure 
that this pollen will have every opportunity to act, and pollen of the 
same or other plants, which is not wanted, excluded, the stamens or 
male organs of the flower to be pollinated should be removed before the 
anthers are in a condition to shed their pollen, and the flower afterward 
tied up in a very fine gauze, or paper bag, during the process of fertili- 
zation. 

POTTING PLANTS. 

No rules can be laid down which would apply equally to all kinds of 
plants grown in pots, as different kinds of plants require different treat- 
ment in this respect. Some require that the soil be rammed quite firmly 
about the old ball. These, as a rule, are hard-wooded plants, with fine 
roots, such as Heaths and Azaleas. Palms thrive best in a moderately 
well-firmed soil. Soft-growing plants are less fastidious in this respect. 
Again, there are seasons when some plants should be potted. The hard- 
wooded kinds are usually potted in Spring before active growth com- 
mences. Ferns are given their annual shift before starting into growth; 
many of them, however, will stand shifting several times during a year. 
But for all plants it may be stated that the beginning of their resting 
season should find the ball of earth well supplied with roots, for if given 
a shift when growth is completed water will lodge in the fresh soil, and 
this will turn sour and almost certainly cause the plant to become 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 183 

sickly. Plants with fine hair-like roots should only be given small 
shifts; rapid growing plants and those with large roots will take larger 
shifts. In every case the ball should be moderately moist when potting. 
Plants in the younger stages of their existence, whether seedlings or 
cuttings, require the soil to be of a finer nature than when older, when 
it may be rough and fibrous, and in the case of those which need it 
manure of some kind added. In potting ordinary plants in pots above 
the size of 4 or 5-inch, the firming of the soil should be done with the 
aid of a piece of wood about iy 2 inches wide and 14-inch thick, or larger, 
for very large plants. Enough space should always be left at the top of 
the pot, so that when the ball of earth is in need of water one applica- 
tion will be sufficient to wet it through. In potting cuttings it is the 
usual custom to put in soil to one-third the depth of the pot; the cut- 
ting is put in place, the remaining space filled up with soil, firmed with 
the thumbs, then the bottom of the pot is knocked several times on the 
bench. A better method is to have the knocking precede the firming 
with the thumbs, for this reason : When the cutting is placed in posi- 
tion, the soil added and thumb- firmed, the soil does not get well distri- 
buted among the rootlets nearly so well as when the pot is given one or 
two gentle knocks before the thumbs are used. For most plants in the 
cutting stage the thumbs should be used for evening the surface more 
than for firming. Another reason, just as weighty as the last, is that 
pressure from the thumb acts unevenly on the roots, pressing down 
opposite sections, while the intervening spaces containing the tender 
roots are stationary. This must necessarily result in twisting and 
wrenching, which dangers are done away with, or at least lessened, by 
first firming with the knocking process. Again, all the cuttings of a 
batch will not have the same quantity of roots, and therefore they 
should get different methods of treatment in potting. Those which 
have a satisfactory number of roots may be put in the middle of the 
pot, according to the usual custom; but those which have few roots, 
and which look as if they would benefit by being left in the cutting bed 
for a longer period, will, as a rule, come along all right if placed at the 
edge of the pot instead of at the middle. The roots in this position 
make progress rapidly, and the plantlets can easily be given a place 
in the middle of a pot during their next shift. Cuttings with very fine 
roots should always be treated in this way. Many cuttings, when 
ready for potting, will be found to have the roots pointing downward 
from the base of the cutting instead of radiating from it; these, if of a 
delicate and easily bruised nature, can be preserved by taking some soil 
in one hand, letting the fingers accompany it into the pot, and before 
withdrawing them press the soil against one side of the pot; place the 
roots against this and fill up with soil. In course of time practice will 
enable the operator to pot cuttings as rapidly by this as by the ordinary 
method. In potting cuttings during the Winter months very great care 
should be exercised in preventing a check through putting them in soil, 
which is of a lower temperature than the sand from which they have 
been taken. It should not vary more than two degrees at the time of 
potting. 



184 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

Clean Pots— It is the common custom, and a bad one I think, to put 
plants in dirty pots with merely the rough of the soil remaining in them 
being removed with a stick or cloth before using. This operation takes 
more time than washing. A large number of pots submerged in a big 
tub of water and allowed to stand for a few days will have the material 
adhering to them softened so that with a piece of woolen cloth and a 
boy that knows how, a large number can be cleaned in a short time so 
that they will be as good as new. There is no doubt that dirty pots 
work to the injury of the plants in them. The inside soil adhering to the 
pot after use prevents a plant being easily knocked out and the green 
on the outside tends to make the pot less porous; besides, a plant looks 
better by far in a clean pot than in a dirty one. New pots or thoroughly 
dried, clean ones should not be used until they have been dipped in 
water immediately before using, as they are apt to absorb too much of 
the water meant for the plant after potting. Have divisions in the 
potting shed for each size; it saves both time and pots, and when pot- 
ting is to be done everything goes along more smoothly when the vari- 
ous materials are ready at hand. There is usually more time wasted in 
gathering the necessary sizes from here, there and everywhere, wiping 
out a few at a time and punching a stick through the aperture at the 
bottom than would be spent over the work if it were properly done. 
System counts in this as in everything else. 

Drainage— Crocking or arranging pieces of broken pots or other mate- 
rial over the hole in the bottom of the flower pot for drainage is an 
operation to which too little attention is apt to be given. For quick- 
growing soft-wooded plants in small pots, or for those which are 
intended to remain in the pot only for a short time, there is no necessity 
for an elaborate system of drainage. Especially is this the case where 
the ball of earth becomes so dry as to require watering at least once a 
day. With plants of this nature, in pots above the size of 3-inch, a little 
rough material thrown in the bottom will give compensatory results; 
but as usually done this work takes more time than if the pots were 
supplied in the regular way with potsherds. The rough pieces of the 
potting soil are gathered up by hand and put in the pots as potting 
proceeds. A better way will be secured as follows: Soil which is to be 
used for cuttings, and which is screened, will give excellent material in 
the rough pieces which do not pass through the meshes; this should be 
saved, mixed with thoroughly rotted cow manure, and put in a box 
conveniently situated for future use. This gives splendid material for 
drainage, especially for bedding plants, such as Geraniums in 4-inch 
pots, Cannas in 5-inch pots, and for young Chrysanthemums. It will 
be found that that part of the pot holding this mixture will have a great 
attraction for the roots. Where the pots are to serve for growing plants 
in for any length of time, potsherds should be used. With Palms, Ferns 
and such plants as Pandanus, Dracaenas and Marantas a carefully 
crocked pot cuts quite a figure in their healthy root action. For Cala- 
diums, Alocasias, Anthuriums and other plants which require an abun- 
dant supply of water, careful drainage is an absolute necessity. With 
fine-rooted plants, such as Heaths and Azaleas, drainage is equally 
important. It will be found good policy to have a supply of the differ- 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 185 

ent sizes of crocks on hand all the time. The crocks should consist of 
three sizes, the largest size in pieces from two to three inches across; 
the next large enough to go through a No. 1 sieve, and the small size 
from one-quarter to one-half-inch in diameter. The quickest way to 
procure the different sizes is to breakup the potsherds with a good-sized 
hammer, so that the largest pieces are from two to three inches across; 
put into a No. 4 or 6 sieve to screen out the dust and smaller particles, 
which may be thrown away. Next screen through a half-inch sieve and 
these will serve as the smallest-sized crocks. The pieces which the half- 
inch sieve retain put into an inch sieve. This will give the second size, 
and what is left will answer for pieces to put over the holes in the bot- 
toms of the pots. All three sizes should be kept in separate boxes, or 
divisions on the potting bench, handy for use. In crocking, spread out 
a number of pots on the bench, take a piece of broken pot about twice 
the diameter, of the hole in the bottom of the pot, place the concave side 
of the crock directly over the hole. If the pot is a small one, a few of 
the smaller-sized crocks over the larger pieces will be sufficient; but if a 
6-inch pot, or larger, it is best to arrange a few large pieces around the 
first piece, finishing off with smaller ones. On top of the crocks, to pre- 
vent the soil from getting among them, either during the operation of 
potting or from being washed down afterward, sphagnum moss is often 
used, although this is not the best material for the purpose, as it is apt 
to retain moisture to a greater extent than the soil above it. Half 
decomposed -leaves are preferable. 

t 

SOIL. 

Loam is the principal soil used for most plants. If containing 
much clay it is made lighter and more porous by adding peat, leaf 
mould and sand. Each grower of plants should have the loam he uses 
analyzed by a professional analyst, in order to be certain of what it 
contains, and to apply intelligently the constituents in which it is defi- 
cient for the different classes of plants. Two excellent books on this 
subject are: "The Soil," by Professor King, Wisconsin, and "Lectures 
on Some of the Physical Properties of Soil," by Professor K. Warington. 

MULCHING. 

This consists of covering the surface of the soil with any loose 
material, such as well-rotted manure, cocoanut fiber, stable litter, 
or half-decayed leaves. It acts in retaining the moisture in the ground 
for the benefit of vegetation instead of being lost by rapid evaporation. 
The soil, especially after heavy rainstorms, gets a firm crust on the sur- 
face which ultimately cracks open, readily parting with the moisture 
to a good distance beneath the surface; thus the mulch acts as a layer 
between the drying influence of the atmosphere and the surface of the 
soil, preventing it from getting hard and keeping it open. A good mulch, 
besides preventing evaporation is, to a certain extent, similar in its 
action to a loose, silty surface soil, drawing up the moisture from several 
feet below the surface. Mulching is also beneficial, because if manure is 



186 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

used in which there is any feeding substance it is washed down to the 
roots of the plants by heavy rains. Cultivating acts in a similar man- 
ner to mulching, as the soil which is loosened may be said to be a mulch 
of loose soil ; but to be of the greatest service this operation should be 
performed after every shower of rain. Plants in pots need the surface 
stirred occasionally, partly for the same reason that plants in the open 
ground are benefited by frequent cultivating. The top layer of soil in 
the pots gets into a caked condition; this is indicated at times by the 
water standing on the surface longer than usual, and is caused by the 
particles of soil being reduced by the action of the water to a muddy 
state, forming a kind of puddle through which water takes a long while 
to percolate. When potting, a little rough sand scattered on the surface 
is an excellent preventive, keeping the whole mass porous and doing 
away with the necessity of frequent stirring. 

WATERING. 

This is the most important work that falls to the lot of the plant 
grower. It cannot be learned by reading a paper or a book on the sub- 
ject, and the man who wields the watering can, or hose, no matter how 
intelligent he may be, will water plants for years after a fashion, and 
yet have a great deal to learn. About all that can be said on the sub- 
ject is to water a plant when it needs it. The trouble lies in knowing 
when it needs it. The operator should first know the plant, all about 
it, where it comes from, whether it inhabits a bog or a mountain top, 
whether it is rapid or slow growing, its natural periods of growth and 
rest, and the same under cultivation. Next he must know the condi- 
tion of the roots, the kind of soil it is potted in and when potted. 
Among other things he should know will be the chemical composition 
of the water, and whether it is suitable for the plants he is watering. 
The temperatures of the soil and water during the operation is another 
important item. Next he should frequently go over different plants in 
different soils, knock one out of its pot here and there an hour or so 
after watering, to ascertain whether the ball has been wet an inch or 
two below the surface with the remainder dust dry, or if the happy 
medium has been struck. In short, it may be said that the successful 
cultivator understands how and when to water only after years of 
experience. Watering with the hose is often the cause of a good deal of 
harm, both to plants on benches, in the open ground, and in pots, owing 
to the manner in which water is applied. It is a favorite method with 
some to force the water out of a small nozzle to a distance of 20 feet, or 
a less distance, with the finger partly over the end of the hose. A better 
method than this could not be designed for the packing of the soil, 
washing it into cakes by breaking it up into fine particles and filling up 
the interstices with thick muddy water; and when the sun shines, if the 
ground be not gone over with the cultivator or loosened up in some 
other way, the surface soil gets as hard as a brick, and the roots near 
the surface are subjected to a temperature far above what is good for 
them. To do away with the necessity for this method of watering the 
hose should be short in length, and stop cocks more frequently placed. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 187 

For outside work lengths of temporary iron piping screwed into posi- 
tion wherever necessary should be provided so as to use the hose low 
down among the plants, never allowing the water to be squirted on the 
soil. A good plan is to use distributors, one nf which can be made in a 
few minutes if the necessary material is at hand. Take a piece of zinc, 
about a foot long and 5 inches wide, bend the sides for half its length 
so as to clasp the end of the hose to hold it in position, and tie with 
wire. The other end should overlap the end of the hose by about 6 
inches, and be turned up slightly so as to meet the water, distributing 
it in such a manner as will enable the soil to absorb it without being 
disturbed in the least. This will also prevent the foliage and flowers 
from being spattered with muddy water. 



188 



INDEX. 



A 

Namb Page 

Abelia rupestris 

(Rock Abelia) 147 

Abutilon 9 

Acacia 9 

Acaena microphylla...lll 

Acalypha 50 

— hispida 9 

Acanthus Ill 

Acer 147 

— palmatum japonl- 

cum 147 

Achillea millefolium... Ill 

— mongolica ill 

— ptarmica flore- 

pleno.. Ill 

— tomentosa Ill 

Achimenes 79 

Achy ran thes (Iresine) 58 
Aclphylla Colensoi ....112 , 

— squarrosa 112 

Aconitum 112 

Acorus calamus varie- 
gatus (variegated 

Sweet Flag) 112 

Adam's Needle(Yucca)l 75 
Adenocalymna como- 

sum 67 

Adiantum 

(Maidenhair) 101 

— Capillus- Veneris 66 

— Farleyense 101 

— from spores 102 

— propagation by 

division 102 

Adonis 112 

JSthionema eordifo- 

lium 112 

Agapanthus umbel- 

latus 9 

Agathaea coelestis 10 

Agave americana 10 

Ageratum mexicanum 50 
Agrostemma 
( Lychnis ) coronaria 11 3 

— flos-Jovis 113 

Ajuga 113 

Akebia quinata 67 

Alabama Snow- 
wreath (Neviusa 

alabamensis) 163 

Allamandas 10 

Alocasia 10 

Aloysia citriodora 11 

Alternanthera 50 



Namb Pagb 

Althaea rosea 

(Hollyhock) 113 

Althaea, shrubby 

(Hibiscus syriacus) 157 
Alum Root 

(Heuchera) 134 

Alyssum (Madwort) .113 
— maritimum 

(Kceniga) 50 

Amaranthus 50 

Amaryllis 

(Hippeastrum) ...11, 79 
— propagation by off- 
sets 80 

— raising plants from 

seeds 80 

Amorpha fruticosa 
(Bastard Indigo)... 147 

Amorphophallus 80 

Ampelopsis Roylei 67 

— Veitchii 67 

Ananas 11 

Andropogon Schsenan- 
thus (Lemon Grass) 92 

Anemone 80 

— alpina 114 

— japonica 114 

— tuberous rooted 114 

Annual plants 51 

Anthericum varlega- 

tum 11 

Anthurium 11 

Antlgonon leptopus .. 68 
AntirrhiQum 

(Snapdragon) 114 

Aponogeton distach- 

yon 12 

Aquilegia(Columbine) 115 
Arabis (Rock Cress) ..116 

Aralia 12 

— Chabrierii 12 

— (Fatsia) japonica... 12 
— japonica 

(Angelica Tree) ...147 

variegata 13 

— papyrifera 116, 131 

Araucarias 13 

Arauja (Schubertia) 

grandiflora 68 

Ardisia 13 

Argemone(DeviFsFig)116 
Aristolochittelegans.. 68 

— sipho 68 

— Sturtevantii 68 

Armeria (Sea Pink). ..117 



IUmb Paob 

Arundo donax 92 

variegata 92 

Asclepias Curassa- 

vica 51 

— tuberosa 

(Pleurisy Root)... 117 

Asparagus 14 

— plumosus 14 

nanus 69 

as a pot plant 69 

forshort sprays 69 

raising from 

seed 69 

— Sprengerii 14 

— tenuissimus 14, 70 

Asperula adorata 

(Sweet Woodruff) ..117 

Aspidistra 14 

— elatlor 66 

variegata 66 

— punctata 66 

Aspidium capense 103 

Asplenium 15, 103 

Aster 

(Michaelmas Daisy )117 
Asters, Chinese (Cal- 

listephus chinensis) 51 
Astilbe (Spiraea) 

japonica 118 

Aubrietia deltoidea...H8 

Aucuba japonica 148 

Azalea 15, 148 

— newly imported 

plants 15 

— removing side 

growths 15 

— treatment during 

summer 15 

B 

Balsams' 52 

— Z anzibar ( I m - 

patiens Sultani) 52 

Bamboo 92 

Bambusa 92 

Banana (Musa) 51 

— M. ensete 51 

superba 52 

Baptisia perfoliata....ll8 
Barberry 

(Berberis Thunbergi)149 
Bay tree 

(Laurus nobills) 161 

Begonia..... 15,53 

—bedding varieties of 53 



INDEX. 



189 



Namb Pagk 

Begonia coralllna..l6, 53 

— Evanslana 118 

— Gloire de Lorraine.. 16 
— Rex, leaf cuttings ol 17 

— sowing seed 16 

— tuberous- rooted 

section 16 

—winter bloomers 16 

Bellflower 

(Campanula) 119 

— Chinese 141 

Bellls perennls 53 

Berberls Thunbergl 

(Barberry) 149 

— vulgaris 149 

Bignonia venusta 70 

Bird Cherry 

(Prunus padus) 165 

Bladder Nut 

(Staphylea) 173 

Bleeding Heart ...130 

Blood Root (Sanguin- 

aria canadensis) 141 

Bocconia cordata 

(Plume Poppy) 119 

Bougalnvillea 17 

— iateritia 70 

— spectabilis.. 70 

Bouncing Bet (Sapo- 

narla officinalis) 142 

Boussingaultia basel- 

loldes(MadeiraVine) 70 

Bouvardla 18 

Browallla 18 

— elata 53 

— speclosa 53 

Brunfelsia 18 

Bryonia iacinlosa 70 

Bulbous plants 80 

Bulbs, forcing 84 

— outdoor 85 

— spring 85 

Burning Bush 130 

c 

Cactus 18 

Caladium 18 

— argyrites 81 

— fancy-leaved 81 

— odoratum (Colo- 

casia odorata) .... 82 
— preparations for lift- 
ing tubers 82 

— propagation , 82 

— starting tubers 81 

— storing " 82 

Calathea 19 

— propagation 19 

Calceolaria 19 

Calico Bush 

(Kalmia latifolia) ..160 

Calla 90 

Callicarpa 150 

Callirhoe 119 

Callistemon speciosus 20 
Calycanthus (Sweet- 

Scented Shrub) 150 

— praecox.... 151 



Name Page 

Camellia 20 

Campanula 119 

Candytuft (Iberis) 134 

Cannas 53 

— for winter blooming 20 
— raising from seed.... 54 

— storing 54 

— varieties 53 

with ornamental 

foliage 54 

Carludovica 20 

Carnation (Dianthus 

Caryophyllus) 126 

— cuttings 127 

material for 127 

—disbudding 129 

—feeding 129 

— lifting and plant- 
ing 128 

— Marguerite 130 

—planting in the field. 128 
— propagating house 

and benches 127 

—sand 127 

—soil 129 

— supports 129 

— syringing 129 

— temperature 129 

— to follow chrysan- 
themums 130 

— treatment during 

rooting 128 

— varieties 130 

—ventilation 129 

Caryopteris masta- 

canthus 150 

Castor Bean(Ricinus) 63 
Catananche coerulea ..120 

Catchfly (Silene) 143 

Cedar, Japan 153 

Celandine Double 121 

Centaurea.. 120 

Centradenia 21 

Centropogon 21 

Cerastium Bieber- 

steinil 121 

Cerasus laurocerasus.150 
Cercis japonica (Red 

Bud, Judas Tree) ...151 
Cestrum corymbosum 21 

— Newelli 21 

Chsenostoma hispida. 54 
Chaste Tree 

(Vitex agnus-castus)174 
Cheiranthus Cheirl 

(Wallflower) 121 

Chelidonium majus 

flore-pleno 

(Double Celandine). 121 
Chimonanthus 

fragrans 151 

Chionanthus virginica 

(Fringe Tree) 151 

Childsia (Hidalgoa) 

Wercklei 70 

Christmas Rose 

(Helleborus). 133 

Chrysanthemums 121 



Name Page 

Chrysanthemum coc- 

cineum 125 

— insects 124 

— late-flowering 

plants 122 

— leucanthemum 125 

— parthenifolium 125 

— propagating for 

general crop 122 

— raising new varie- 
ties 124 

— selecting the bud ....122 

—soil 123 

— specimen plants 123 

— stock plants 121 

— types or races 124 

— uliginosum 125 

— varieties 124 

— ventilation 123 

Cibotium (Dicksonia) 

Schiedel 103 

Cineraria 21 

— candidissima 54 

— maritima 54 

Cinquefoil, shrubby 
( Potentillafruticosa)165 

Cissus discolor 71 

Cistus villosus 151 

Citrus trifoliata 151 

Clematis 71, 125 

— grafting large- 
flowered varieties 71 

— paniculata 71 

Clerodendron specio- 

sum 72 

— Thomsons 72 

— trichotonum 152 

Clitoria ternatea 72 

Cobaea scandens 72 

Codiaaum 

(Crotons) 22, 23, 54 

Columbine (Aqullegia>115 
Coneflower 

(Rudbeckla) 141 

Convallaria majalls... 83 

Coleus 55 

Convolvulus 21 

Cordylines 22, 66 

— ornamental leaved 

kinds 22 

Coreopsis 125 

Cornflower 

(Centaurea) 120 

Cornus florida (Flow- 
ering Dogwood) 152 

Cosmos bipinnatus.... 55 

—supports for 55 

Cotoneaster micro- 

phylla 152 

Cotton Lavender 

(Santolina incana).142 
Cotyledon 

(Echeveria) 27, 56 

Cowslip, American.... 131 

—Virginian 137 

Crape Myrtle (Lager- 

stroemia indlca) 161 

Crataegu8(Hawthorn)152 



190 



INDEX. 



Namb Pagb 

Crataegus pyracan- 

tha. 153 

Crinum 83 

— Powellii 83 

Croton 

(Codiseum) 22,23,54 

Crotons, ringing.... 23, 24 
Cryptomeria japonica 

(Japan Cedar) 153 

Cuphea Llavse 56 

— platycentra 56 

Curculigo 24 

Cycas 24 

Cyclamen 25 

Cydonia japonica 

(Japan Quince) 153 

— Maulei 154 

Cyperus alternif ollus . 92 
Cyrtomium(aspidium) 

falcatum 103 

Cytisus 26 

D 

Dactylis glomerata 

variegata 93 

Dahlias 56 

— propagation 56 

—soil 57 

— varieties 56 

Daisy, Michaelmas.... 117 

—Ox eye 125 

—Paris 43 

Dalechampia Roez- 

liana 26 

Daphne cneorum 154 

Davallia 103 

— Mariesii 103 

— Mooreana 103 

Delphinium 

(Larkspur) 125 

Desmodium gyrans... 26 

Deutzia scabra 154 

Dianthus (Carnation 

Pink) 126 

— Caryophyllus 126 

Dicentra eximia 130 

— spectabilis 

(Bleeding Heart) .130 
Dichorisandra thyrsi- 
flora 27 

Dlcksonia antarctica.104 

— Barometz 104 

Dictamnus fraxinella 

(Burning Bush) 130 

Dieffenbachias 27 

Dior villa (Weigelia)...155 
Digitalis purpurea 

(Fox Glove, 

Witches' Thimbles)130 
Dodecatheon 

(American Cowslip)131 
Dogwood, Flowering 

(Cornus florida) 152 

Doronicum 

(Leopard's Bane). ..131 

Dracaena 26 

— fragrans 26 



Namb Pagb 

Dracaena Godseffi- 

ana 26 

— Goldieana 26 

— Lindenii 26 

— Massangeana 26 

— Sanderiana 26 

Drosera binata 27 

E 

Echeveria (Cotyle- 
don) gibbiflora 
metallica 27 

Edelweiss (Leontopo- 
dium alplnum) 136 

Eichornea 
(Water Hyacinth).. 28 

— azurea 28 

Elymus glaucus 93 

Empress Tree (Pau- 

lownia imperialis) ..164 

Epiphyllums 28 

Eranthemum pulchel- 

lum 29 

Erianthus ravenna?... 93 

Erica (Heath) 155 

Ericas 29 

Erpetion (Viola) 

reniforme. 131 

Erythrinas 29, 57 

— propagation 29 

Eucharis amazonica.. 84 
Eulalia (Miscanthus). 93 
Euonymus 

(Spindle Tree) 155 

— radicans variegata.156 
Eupatorium probum. 29 
Euphorbia(Poinsettia) 

pulcherrima 30 

— elegans 31 

Eurya latifolia 

variegata 31 

Exacum amne 31 

Exochorda grandi- 

flora (Pearl Bush). .156 

F 

Farfugium grande.66, 131 
Fatsia (Aralia) papy- 
rifera (Rice Paper 

Plant) 116, 131 

Ferns 101 

— cool house, summer 

quarters for 108 

— insect enemies of 110 

— shading 108 

—soil for 108 

—spores, gathering 

and sowing 109 

preparing soil for 109 

— viviparous 109 

Ferula communis 132 

Festuca glauca 93 

Ficus elastica 31, 57 

—cuttings 32 

— house-grown plants 32 
— indoors, for stock 
plants »32 



TTAmb Pagb 
Ficus mossing, out- 
of-doors 31 

— slow-rooting species 32 

Forcing bulbs 84 

Forget-me-not 

(Myosotis) 137 

Forsythia 156 

Four O'Clock 59 

Fragaria indica 
(Rock Strawberry) 132 

Freesias 85 

Fringe Tree (Chion- 
anthus virginica) ...151 

Fuchsia 32 

Funkia 

(Plaintaln Lily) 132 

— ovata 132 

— Sieboldiana 132 

— sub-cordata 132 

Furcraea 34 

Furze(Ulex europa;us)174 

O 

Gaillardia aristata....l32 

Galax aphylla 132 

Gardenias 34 

Gazanias 57 

Gentiana (Gentian). ..133 

Geranium 57 

— sanguineum 133 

Gladiolus 86 

Gloriosa Plantii 

superba 86 

Gloxinias 34 

— diseases of 35 

—soil for 35 

Goat's Beard(Spira3a)143 

Golden Feather 125 

Gordonia 

(Loblollv Bay) 156 

Gorse (Whin, Furze, 

Ulex europaeus) 174 

Grevillea ro busta 35 

Guelder Rose (Vibur- 
num, Snowball) 174 

Gynerium argenteum 

(Pampas Grass) 93 

Gypsophila 133 

H 

Hsemanthus 86 

Halesia 

(Snowdrop Tree) ...156 

Hamelia patens 35 

Hawthorn 

(Cratsegus) ..152 

Heath (Erica).... 155 

Hedera helix 

(English Ivy) 72 

Hedychium 35 

Heeriaalba 36 

— rosea 36 

Helianthus 

(Sunflower) 133 

Heliotrope 57 

Helleborus 

(Christmas Rose) ...133 



INDEX. 



191 



Name Page 

Hemerocallis 

(Day Lily) 133 

Hepatica triloba 134 

Heuchera(A.lum Root)134 

Hibiscus 36 

— syriacus 

(Shrubby Althaea). 157 
Hippeastrum 

( Amaryllis) 79 

Holly (Ilex) 158 

Hollyhock 113 

Honeysuckle (Bush) 

Lonicera.. 162 

House Leek 

(Sempervivum) 143 

Horse Chestnut, 
. smooth fruited 

(Pavia macro- 

stachya) 164 

Hoya carnosa 73 

Humulus japonicus 

variegatus 73 

Hunnemannia i fuma- 

risefolia 57 

Hyacinths, Roman.... 84 

— forcing 84 

— in pans 85 

Hydrangeas for pots. 36 

—forcing 36 

— Hortensis 157 

— paniculata grandi- 

flora .-. 158 

— quercifolia 157 

Hypericum 

(St. John's Wort) ..158 

I 

Iberis (Candytuft) 134 

Ilex (Holly) 158 

— cornuta 159 

Imantophyllum * 37 

Impatiens Sultani 

(Zanzibar Balsam). 52 

Inga pulcherrima 37 

Ipomsea 73 

— Briggsii 73 

— grandiflora 

(Moonflower) 74 

— tubiculata 66 

Iresine (Achyranthes) 58 

Iris 86, 135 

— propagation 135 

Isotoma longiflora ... 58 

Itea virginica 159 

Ivy English 72 

— German 65 

Ixoras 37 

J 

Jasminum grandi- 

florum 37 

— nudiflorum 

(Chinese naked- 
flowered Jasmine)160 
Judas tree (Cercls 

japonica) 151 

Juniperus (Juniper). 160 



Namb Page 

Justicia (Schaueria) 

calytricha 37 

— (Jacobinia) carnea. 37 
rosea 37 

K 

Kadsura Japonica 74 

Kalmia latifolia 

(Calico Bush) 160 

Kerria japonica 160 

— white, (Rhodoty- 
pos kerrioides) ...166 

Kniphofia aloides 136 

Koelreuteria panicu- 
lata 161 

L 

Lachenalias 86 

Lagerstroemia lndica 

(Crape Myrtle) 161 

Lantana 58 

Lapageria alba 74 

— rosea 74 

Larkspur 

(Delphinium) 125 

Lastrea opaca 66 

— prolifica 66 

Lathyrus latifolius 

albus 74 

Laurus nobilis 

(Bay Tree) 161 

Leontopodium alpi- 

num (Edelweiss) ....136 

Lespedeza bicolor 136 

Liboniapenrhosiensis 37 
Ligustrum ( Privet) . . .161 

Lilac (Syringa) 173 

Lilium 87 

— auratum 89 

— Harrisii 89 

— longiflorum 89 

— preparing bulbs for 

potting 88 

— speciosum 88 

Lily, Day 133 

Lily of the Valley 83 

— plaintain (Funkia).132 
Limnocharis Hum- 

boldtii 96 

Lindelofla spectabilisl36 

Lobelia 136 

— erinus 58 

Loblolly Bay 

(Gordonia) 156 

Lomaria gibba 104 

Lonicera 

(Bush Honeysuckle)162 
— sempervirens 

(Woodbine) 75 

Lopezia racemosa 

(Mosquito Plant) ... 37 

Lychnis 136 

— (Agrostemma) coro- 

naria 113 

Lycopods 101 

Lysimachia 

(Loosestrife) 137 



Namb Page 

Lysimachia nummu- 

laria (Moneywort).. 66 
Lythrum salicaria 

(Purple Loosestrife)137 

M 

Madeira Vine 70 

Magnolia 162 

Mahernia glabrata.... 38 
Malvaviscus arboreus 38 

— mollis 38 

Manettia bicolor 76 

— cordifolia 75 

Maples (Japanese). ...147 

Maranta 38 

Marvel of Peru 59 

Meadow Sweet 

(Spiraea) 143 

Medinilla 38 

Mertensia virginica 

(Virginian Cowslip)137 
Mesembryanthemum. 58 
Metrosideros robusta 38 

— semperfiorens 38 

Microlepia (Davallia) 

hirta cristata 104 

Mignonette (Reseda) . 58 
— for early flowering . 59 
Mimulus moschatus.. 59 
Mint, Horse, 

(Monarda) 137 

Mirabilis jalapa 59 

Mock Orange 

(Philadelphus) 165 

Monarda 

(Horse Mint) 137 

Monstera deliciosa.... 38 

Morina longifolia 137 

Mullein (Verbascum).145 

Musa coccinea 38 

Mussaendafrondosa.. 38 

— luteola 38 

Myosotis 

(Forget-me-not) 137 

N 

Narcissus 84 

— poeticus 89 

Neiumbium 96 

— insect enemies 97 

—raising plants from 

seed 96 

— starting dormant 

tubers 96 

Nepenthes 39 

Nephrolepis 105 

— acuta 105 

— cordifolia 104 

pectinata 105 

— davallioides 105 

furcans 104 

— exaltata 104 

bostoniensis 104 

cristata 104 

— washingtoniensis ...104 

pendula 104 

Nerium (Oleander).... 39 



192 



INDEX. 



Nam* Page 

Nevlusa alabamensis 

(Alabama Snow 

Wreath) 163 

Nierembergia frutes- 

cene .'.. 59 

— gracilis 59 

Nlgelladamascena.... 59 
Niphobolus lingua 

corymbifera 66 

Nymphsea 97 

— hardy sorts 98 

raising from 

seeds 99 

starting 98 

— night-blooming 

section 97 

—soil for 98 

— starting tubers into 

growth 98 

— summer quarters... 98 
— tenderkinds. The... 97 
wintering 98 

o 

Ochna multiflora 39 

(Enothera 

(Evening Primrose)138 
Ononis (Restharrow)138 
Onosma stellulatum 

var. tauricum 138 

Onychium 105 

Ophiopogon 138 

Orchids 40 

— Calanthe 40 

— Cattleyas 40 

— Coelogynecristata.. 40 

— Cypripedium 41 

— Dendrobium nobile. 41 

— Laelia anceps 41 

— Odontoglossum 41 

— Oncidlum varicosum 41 

var. Rogersii... 41 

— potting material.... 41 
Orobus (Lathyrus) 

vernus(BitterVetch)138 

Osmanthus 163 

Othonna crassifolia 

( Little Pickles) 66 

Ouvirandra fenes- 

tralis 100 

Oxalis 59, 89 

P 

Pachysandra 138 

Psederia f oetida 76 

Pseonia 139 

— Moutan 

(Shrubby Paeonia) .163 

Palms 41 

— Areca (Chrysalido- 

carpus) lutescens.. 42 
— Caryota sobolifera . 42 
— Ceroxylon andicola 42 

— Cocosplumosa 42 

Weddeliana 42 

— Corypha australis.. 42 



Namb Page 

Palms, Kentia (Ho- 

wea) Belmoreana... 42 

Forsteriana.... 42 

— Lataniaborbonica. 42 

— Licuala grandis 42 

— Llvistona chinensis 42 

Jenkensii 42 

rotundifolia 42 

— Phoenix rupicola 42 

— Rhapis flabelli- 

formis 42 

— Seaforthiaelegans.. 42 
— Stevensonia grandi- 

folia 42 

Pandanus 60 

— utilis 43 

— Veitchii 43 

Panicum variegatum 94 

Pansies (Viola) 60 

— to flower in frames. 60 

—tufted 61 

Papaver (Poppy) 139 

— nudicaule 139 

Papyrus antiquorum 94 

Paris Daisies 43 

Passiflora ccerulea 76 

— incarnata 76 

Paullinia thalictri- 

folia 43 

Paulownia imperialis 

(Empress Tree) 164 

Pavia macrostachya 

(Smooth-fruited 

Horse Chestnut) 164 

Peach 

(Persica vulgaris) ...164 
Pearl Bush 

(Exochorda grandi- 

flora) 155 

Pelargonium 61 

—fancy 62 

— ivy-leaved section... 62 
Pennisetum longi- 

stylum 94 

Pentas carnea 62 

Pentstemon 140 

Peperomias 43 

Pereskias 43 

Peristrophe angusti- 

folia 62 

Persica vulgaris 

(Peach) 164 

Periwinkle (Vinca) 145 

Petrea volubilis 76 

Petunias 62 

Philadelphus 

(Mock Orange, Sy- 

ringa) 165 

Phlox Drummondii... 62 
— subulata 

(Moss Pink) 140 

Phormium tenax 43 

Phygelius capensis ...140 
Phyllagathis rotundi- 
folia 44 

Phyllanthus atropur- 

pureus 44 

— nivosus 44 



Namb Pass 

Phyllotsenlum Lin- 

denii 44 

Physalis Franchetti..l40 
Pitcher Plant 

(Sarracenia) 142 

Platycerlum alcicornelOS 

— grande 105 

Platycodon grandi- 
florum 

(Chinese Bellflower)141 
Plumbago capensis... 63 

Plume Poppy 119 

Plumerlas, The 45 

Polianthes tuberosa 

(Tuberose) 89 

Polypodium 106 

— (Phlebodium) 

aureum 106 

— conjugatum 106 

— (Goniophlebium) 

sub-auriculatum . .106 

— Heracleum 106 

— (Niphobolus)lingua.l06 

— Phymatodes 106 

— rigidulum 106 

Pomegranate, Dwarf 
(Punica granatum 

nana) 165 

Poppy (Papaver) 139 

Potentilla fruticosa 
(Shrubby Cinquef oil)165 

Primrose 141 

—Evening 138 

Primula 45, 141 

— fertilizing flowers... 46 

— floribunda 45 

— Forbesii 45 

— Isabellina 45 

— obconica 45 

— sinensis 45 

Privet (Ligustrum)...161 
Prunus padus 

(Bird Cherry) 165 

Pteris 107 

— creticaalbo-lineata 107 

— inequalifolia 107 

— quadriaurita 107 

— serrulata 66 

— tremula 107 

— Wallichii 107 

Pueraria Thunber- 

giana 76 

Punica granatum 
nana (Dwarf Pome- 
granate) 165 

Pyrethrum roseum ...125 
Pyrus (Crab Apple).. ..165 

Q 

Quince, Japan 
(Cydonia japonica)!.153 

R 

Rabbit Berry (Shep- 
herdia argentea) 173 

Reinwardtia (Linum) 
trlgynum 46 



INDEX. 



193 



Name Page 

Reinwardtia tetragy- 

nura 46 

Rhaphiolepis ovata...l66 

Rhododendron 166 

Rhodotypos ker 

rioides 166 

Rhus cotinud 

(Smoke Tree) 166 

Richardia aethiopica 

(Callaj 90 

Ricinus (Castor Bean) 63 

Robina hispida 167 

Rochea (Crassula) 

faleata 46 

Rohdea japonica 66 

Rosa (Rose) 167 

— cultivation under 

glass 170 

— for outdoor bloom. 169 

— forcing 168 

— propagation 168 

by grafting 171 

by seeds 168 

— summer 171 

— teas and hybrid 

teas 169 

Rudbeckia (Cone- 
flower) 141 

Ruellia macrantha.... 47 
Ruaselias 47 

s 

Saccharum ofncina- 

rum violaceum 95 

St. John's Wort 

(Hypericum) 158 

Saintpaulia ionantha 47 

Salvia leucantha 47 

— patens 47 

— pratensis 141 

— splendens 47, 63 

Bonfire 47 

Sanchezia nobilis 63 

Sanguinaria canaden- 
sis (Blood Root) 141 

Santolina incana..63, 142 
Saponaria officinalis 

(Bouncing Bet) 142 

Sarracenia 

(Pitcher Plant) 142 

Saxifraga sarmentosa 

(Aaron's B»ard).65, 142 
Scutellaria (Skull- cap)142 
Sea Pink (Arrneria)...ll7 
Sedum (Stonecrop)....142 

Selagiaella 107 

— cassia arborea 108 

— Emmeliana 107 

— erythropus 108 

— Kraussiana 107 

— lepidophylla 1 08 

— Martensii 108 

— viticulosa 108 

Sempervivum 

(House Leek) 143 

Senecio scandens 
(German Ivy) 65, 77 



Name Page 

Shepherdia argentea 

(Rabbit Berry) 173 

Silene (Catchfly) 143 

Smilax (Myrsiphyllum 

asparagoides) 77 

Smoke Tree 

(Rhus cotinus) 166 

Snapdragon 114 

Snowball (Viburnum, 

Guelder Rosa) 174 

Snowberry (Symphori- 

carpus race mosus).. 173 
Snowdrop Tree 

(Hale*ia> 156 

Solanum Wendlandii. 77 
Sphaerogyne latifolia. 48 
Spindle Tree 

(Euonvmus) 155 

Spiraea (Meadow 

S weet,Goat's Beard)143 
— (astilbe) japonica.... 118 

— shrubby 173 

Stachys lanata 

( Hedge Nettle) 144 

— shrubby 173 

Staphylea 

(Bladder Nut) 173 

Statice(Sea Lavender)144 
Stephanophysum 

(Ruellia) longiflorum 49 
Stephanotis flori- 

bunda 48 

Stevias 48 

Stigmaphyllon cilia- 
turn (Butterfly Vine) 77 
Stipa pennata 

(Feather Grass) 95 

Stonecrop (Sedum).... 142 
Strawberry, Rock 

(Fragaria indica)....132 
Streptocarpus hybrids 48 
Strobilanthes aniso- 

phyllus 49 

— Dyerianus 63 

— isophyllus 49 

Sunflower 

(Helianthus) 133 

Swainsona 63 

Sweet Peas 74 

— supports for 74 

Symphoricarpus rac^- 

mosus (Snowberry) 173 
Synadenium Grantii.. 49 

Syringa (Lilac) 173 

Syringa(Philadelphus, 

Mock Orange) 165 

T 

Tagetes 63 

Tamarix 174 

Tanacetum vulgare 

(Tansy) 144 

Tecoma grandiflora .. 77 

Thunbergia 78 

Thymus (Thyme) 144 

Tiarella cordifolia 

(False Mitrewort)...144 



Name Page 

Tinnea aethiopica 49 

Torenia Fournieri 64 

Tricyrtis hirta 
(Japanese Toad- 
Lily) 144 

Tropaeolum 

(Indian Cress) 64 

Toxicophlaea specta- 

bilis 49 

Trillium 90 

Tritoma uvaria 136 

Tuberoee 89 

Tulips 84 

— forcing 84 

— outdoor bulbs 85 

U 

Ulex europaeus 

(Whin,Gorse, Furze)174 
Uniola latifolia 95 

V 

Valloradia (Plum- 
bago) plumbagin- 

oides 144 

Vallota purpurea 90 

propagation 90 

Verbascum (Mullein).. 145 

Verbenas 64 

— venosa 64 

Veronica (Speed well)..145 
Viburnum (Snowball, 

Guelder Rose) 174 

Victoria Regia, The... 100 

Vinca (Periwinkle) 145 

— major var. elegan- 

tissima 66 

— rosea 64 

Violas (Violets) 145 

—hardy 146 

—leaf spot on 146 

Vitex agnus-castus 

(Chaste Tree) 174 

Vitis heterophylla 
variegata 7S 

w 

Wallflower 121 

Water Lilies, tender, 

wintering 98 

Water Plants, 

labels for 100 

Weigelia (Diervilla)....l55 
Wistaria chinensis 78 

X 

Xanthoceras sorbi- 
folia 175 

Y 

Yucca 
(Adam's Needle) 175 

z 

Zinnias 64 



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